Yes I have the stock iat sensor. I think I did a 2nd gear wot pull first, and then a 3rd gear shortly after. It was cool out and I did shut off the car at the gas station.

So I just took off everything and disconnected everything so the engine is ready to be pulled out (not hard at all). I found some interesting things, and I got some pictures attached.

The front trailing coil was loose, the nuts holding it down were loose, and the ground wire was loose!!! That's not good right, it's the ground wire for the wire harness that plugs into the coils. I also have a FC leading coil.

And the throttle body was like covered in oil, see picture, also when I took off the midpipe, oil was dripping out of there from the downpipe. The intercooler tubes were oily, as they were last time I removed them.

See the picture of the oil fill tube, well that has actually been like that for a while, guessing that's from all the coolant getting into the oil. So let me know what you think about all this. thanks.

That is one of the problems I had running that much boost through the stockers oil blow by. My intercooler and pipes were filled w/ oil.

I think I over filled the oil just a little earlier that day before it blew, but I dont have the hose going from the filler neck to the UIM so I dont know how else the oil can get there except for the turbos. And the oil was below the full line when I checked it after the motor blew, about 2/3s up the marks on the dip stick. They still boosted good and I hope they are okay but I still have to check them for apex seal damage. I just pulled out the engine with the tranny, pretty easy, and I will start tearing it all apart and check the turbos for damage this week sometime, if no apex seal damage then I will reuse them, I just bought them used with low miles earlier this year. I will also have to remove the front mount IC and see how much oil dumps out of it. I guess its been a little while since I had the elbow off so I dont know how long there has been that much oil in the throttle body, but the intercooler pipes didnt really look any different than the last time I had those off. I was also thinking maybe the oil seals inside the motor may have been leaking from high miles.

Check the wheels on the turbos for play. The stock twins weren't designed for boost that high, even a low mileage set could be going out.

Do you have the hose going from the filler neck to the turbo inlet?(like stock) Or better yet how is your oil filler neck vented?

Next where are your OMP nozzle vacuum lines hooked to?

If the oil seals in the engine were going out then it would just burn the oil and go out the exhaust, not really possible for it to accumulate back into the intake stream.

Im not home this weekend but ya I think there is the line that goes down from the filler neck and ends up at the turbo inlet. The omp vacuum lines go to the correct locations, following the diagrams for the full non sequential setup and also goes to the turbo inlet, after the filter. The other nipple coming out of the filler neck is capped off. The turbos do have what seems like a little too much play, but thats how they were when I got them and they feel the same as my old set of turbos, my brother said the play is normal and not too excessive.

My turbine blades on both turbos are bad! See pictures attached in the next post. I only had the rear rotor apex seals brake but both turbo turbines have damage. I took the turbos off the turbo manifolds to see the damage that could not be seen without taking them apart. And also looking through the exhaust port into the rotor housings, the rear rotor had grooves/damage and looks like side seal damage too.

On one turbo I took off the 8mm nut on the end of the shaft on the compressor wheel and pulled the shaft out with the turbine wheel. Can I do this with my old turbos and use the shaft and wheels from my old turbos and put them in the current turbos? Cause my newer turbos have less miles on them, and they look nicer than my old original turbos with over 100k miles, and I think my old turbos were putting out a lot of smoke after I let off the gas after wot, like at the drag strip, my newer turbos did not do that. All the turbos feel like they have the same amount of shaft play.

So I think my newer turbos are in better shape and I would like to use those with the shafts and wheels from the old turbos, what do you think? thanks.

See pics.

3 possibilities for the oil in the pipes/throttle body. 1) the over fiiling of oil caused it to push out the vent pipe on the neck and enter the front of the turbo. 2) your omp injectors have failed check valves and the oil is being pushed into the front of the turbo. 3)turbos are worn and letting oil into the piping.

I am going to buy new omp injectors just in case, along with some other new things that I need like the low coolant sensor and the oring for the elbow to throttle body. Now I need to get a big socket for the flywheel nut, then a rebuild dvd, then some rotor housings, rotors and a rebuild kit, and figure out what I can do with these turbos. thanks.

You can easily test the check valve in the injectors. Drop me a pm i can save you some $ on the tb oring. I have a few extras.

I can blow through the oil injectors, and when I try to suck air in through them, through a hose connected to it, I can hear a little crackling sound like a very small amount of air is coming back in threw the injector, but it doesn't feel like it when I try to suck air, it's the same for both. so I think they are okay. but should I replace them anyway just for preventative maintenance? I need the oring but I might as well just get it from malloy shipped with the other stuff I need, might be cheaper and easier that way. thanks.

I don't know, personally I would leave them until they failed. They generally last a long time. Mine failed and i just stuck an external check valve right at the end of the injector. Been working fine for me.

When I had stock twins and ran high boost I also had oil in the intake as you do. When I swapped over to a single, no more oil. I say don't port it, put a set of good seals in and head at it again. The record is 10.98 by JD and I'll sure you'll break it with a solid motor.

Good luck!!!

Anthony

is that 10.98 with stock ports? I am sure I could have beat that but didnt put together a perfect run after putting in the new clutch And before blowing the motor. I just ordered a rebuilt streetported engine with ALS 2mm apex seals from djseven, and I am going to send him my engine. I am also buying another set of stock turbos, mine had damage from all the little pieces of metal found in the turbo manifold.

Is the streetported engine gonna make my idle more rich than it was with the engine with stock ports? It was already too rich with 850s and 1680s, so I'm thinking I should put the 550s back in the primary, I'll still have enough fuel for boost, and Dudemaaanownsanrx7 I see you are using the 550s with a streetport, what do you think? thanks. I'm also wondering how much fuel I should add to the PFC as a starting point for boost because it will run more lean with the streetport?, I have been doing some searching but still not sure about all this. thanks.

Here is a picture of some of the little pieces found in my exhaust manifold and a couple fell out of the turbo manifold, I'm guessing they are pieces of the apex seals, and that other long piece looks like maybe a spring? I don't know cause I never actually seen these parts that go in the motor. Why are they broke in so many little pieces?, lol. Does this bring up any new ideas of why the motor blew? thanks

I was just looking at my OMP lines, they are in good shape(bought new about 2 years ago), but the line that goes to the rear rotor oil injector has a clear section with no oil in it for about 8 inches from where it bolts to the OMP, the line is filled with oil up to where the line attaches to the injector, but not filled for about 8 inches after the OMP. Now the reason this seems odd to me is because the other line for the injector for the front rotor is completely filled with oil from one end to the other end. And the oil in the rear rotor line does not move, so I don't think it could have leaked out of the line when it was removed, or maybe it did I don't know.

So could this mean I had a OMP failure of some sort? Is it possible to have a failure in which one line will get oil pumped through but not the other line? The injectors are not clogged and work properly, and the banjo bolts to bolt the lines to the OMP are not clogged either.

I have decided to remove the OMP and run premix, I need to make a block off plate. The OMP is also covered in oil, like it has been leaking from somewhere for a long time.

You're going to want to get it tuned. You shouldn't run the base map on a street ported engine. So with that in mind just leave the map alone and take it to a tuner. Or get a wideband+ datalogit and tune yourself. Be sure to do the fuel pump rewire if it's not already done before going in for a tune. You'll want to make sure most your major mods are taken into account with a new tune so you won't have to keep going back.

I do have a wideband with datalogging and have always tuned it myself, Im just trying to get an idea of how much the afr will change with the streetport, and have the pump rewired and all the necessary mods.

The datalogit will make your life so much easier you'll wonder how you ever got by without it. I can't imagine tuning without a datalogit, I would probably chunk the commander out the window due to frustration. It's difficult to tune AFR's with just a gauge logging, unless it's also logging RPM and boost. Just logging AFR's doesn't work very well. Thats what makes the datalogit so nice, plus all the hidden features that are opened up like setting fan speed, larger injectors, better transition tuning and other fine tuning settings. The car will run so much better when tuned properly with a datalogit, and take 1/30th the amount of time.

How much fuel you need depends on how large the port is. But with the new injector setup and a fuel pump rewire, you may have to pull fuel or you may need to add fuel. It's just hard to say because so many variables are changing at once. I would leave the cruise map alone and add 20% fuel to the boost areas. I would first focus on tuning idle, then cruise, and finally slowly start tuning boost areas. You should get an idea of how much fuel will need to come out by boosting 3-5 psi, then go to 10 psi, by this time you should have a feel for what it needs, but always err on the side of caution. It's better to be too rich and need to pull fuel then be too lean and blow your engine up.

Thanks for the advice. Rewiring and replacing the fuel pump with a better one was two of the first few mods I did to the car. I have a plx r-500 wideband with datalogger that can log 5 other inputs at the same time, so I would log afr, rpm, throttle position and boost although it never comes out right for boost, but that was okay cause I would know how much boost it was at and would record on the map trace mode so I knew what row I was in the map. This was the harder way to tune but I just did it this way to save money. But I should get datalogit cause I know it would make it much easier and faster and wouldnt have to do as many test runs. And ya I know I was gonna add alot of fuel to the pim settings in the boost regions and then tune from there to lean out the rich, but what I was trying to figure out was how much I should add to start out with, and you answered that, I would have guessed about ten %. Thanks

Well since you got u a ported engine now, the record still stands 10.98 w/stock ports and turbos....was hope'n u would break it but atleast u should finally be able to get in the 10's and those ALS seals will take a beating so no worries of them breaking like the stock 3 piece

ya I would have beat that record if my clutch would have lasted longer that one day when I did 11.08 with the clutch slipping through 1st and 2nd gear, with a not great 1.66 60 ft time. But would I have the record for stock sequential twins at 11.16? I plan on having some kind of record with the non sequential twins haha.

Not sure...but you can still try to get in the 10's with the stock turbos cause even with a street port, I think only boostn7 is still the only one with the 10.98. Then you can switch to BNRs and see if you can get low 10's out of it since they will push over 400+...so that could be 2 records you could hold :)