10.39 @ 131.93 time slip and video
 

10.39 @ 131.93 with a 1.39 60 ft! Today I ran pre turbo water injection, pump gas, 24 psi boost. 11.6-11.9 AFR during this pass. Time slip and video below. Check out the reaction time too haha.

5 other passes in the mid to high 10s today. I was trying a few different things to get traction in first gear, this run was about perfect. Also had a 1.44 and 1.48 60 ft times today, but 2nd best ET today was 10.61 , I ran lower air pressures today which helped, about 10-13 psi depending on the gauge used.

I guess I'll have to go for 9s next year.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oDWqPHjUsg

Awesome pass!
Sounds like you're got some gear left. What rear end ratio are you running?

Thx. Ya plenty of gear left, 4.10s

Wow.... impressive run Tom. Probably one of the best launches I've ever seen with an FD. What RPM are you launching at? Stock rear end?

The Crane 2 step rev limiter was set at 7500 rpms but it logged at about 6700. I released the clutch with about 11-13 psi boost, revs dropped to 6100 with boost then at 20 psi, revved out to 8100 with 24 psi. TII rear diff in the stock fd housing, stock axles and stock gears. Banzai diff brace, stock rear springs, Koni Sport shocks softest setting, rotary extreme toe links & trailing arms, solid diff mounts. Tilton clutch flow control valve=awesome.

I think the front tires definitely came off the ground, it looks like it and the car turned a little unexpectedly which it usually doesn't do.

If you hit 9s on a 67mm turbo and pump gas that would be unbelievable. Hell your times are already incredible. And to imagine, all this on small street ported engine with steel seals, pump gas and tuned by yourself. :icon_tup: Keep up the great work.

Thanks! I'm sure I'll need like 3 to 4 more psi boost, I don't even know how far I can go with this turbo? Probably need a lot more hp to hit 9s, will my motor hold up? Haha. I need some bigger injectors to run more boost. My tuning skills are always improving haha.

just simply awesome

Awesome man!

You can hit 9's on that 67mm...please do

speechless.

awsome run. 9sec, let us know how you will do

Thanks guys. Has anyone hit 9s with a 67mm turbo? I was thinking maybe I should get a larger A/R turbine housing to make more power in the upper revs for drag racing, it's a .96 now. I think I need to get up to at least 136-140 mph. It took me like 4 years of running low 11's with the stock turbos to finally hit 10's, so if I make 9s my next goal I hope it don't take that long haha, but I know it will be hard.

Now I have a .96 undivided turbine housing, I think I'm gonna buy a 1.24 A/R garrett divided housing for cheap, from what I have read that should be more power for drag racing (matched up to my divided manifold), not really concerned about longer spool up time on the street, just have to be in the right gear to get the quick response.

Great job Tom, hows that tilton valve? Im thinking of getting one. which orfice you using

Its great, with it and the crane 2step it makes launching the car super easy, fast and consistent. The only thing I do now is change the amount of time holding it full throttle to build more or less boost on the 2 step, trying not to overpower the tires and spin too much, and I only hold it full throttle for a half a second or less then drop the clutch and the tilton flow control valve makes the clutch engage a little slower so it gives it a good amount of slip to launch good and no worries of breaking anything even with low tire air pressure and traction. I use the .028 orifice, the larger .040 didn't really feel any different than stock.

Update on my car, I ordered a 1.32 A/R turbine housing and I'm getting a custom 4" exhaust made for it now, downpipe and a magnaflow race series round muffler in the midpipe part # 14163. I'll use that for drag racing and getting my 3" greddy catback modified to bolt up to the 4" midpipe with a vband to use that for street driving. Going all in lol. Hopefully this will make more power with the high boost levels, it should decrease backpressure in the exhaust manifold/turbine housing and greatly reduce it after the turbo.

Very impressed with that Stock drivetrain holding up. You def getting me sold on that tilton valve. Tom, you have any datalogit logs of your latest dyno run or 10 sec passes?

Ya here are my maps and datalogs from my 10.39 pass, see attachment zip file. I'll get back to the dyno asap after getting the exhaust done and the new turbine housing. thanks.

Thanks Tom! Im still learning tuning myself. So the more info and examples, the better I get at it

Very cool. :nod:

Looking at the map I see the section on the leading timing map that you changed. Since the trailing is cut off during 2 step then it doesn't matter what you put on for the trailing map in those cells, right?

Ya, I can't look at it right now but the split should be like the same as other cells around it, shouldn't be negative split since those cells may get used at other times besides for the 2 step.

Oh nevermind I see I added more split in that section of the map for the cells that are used during the 2 step, I forgot about that haha. So ya actually that's not needed I could have let the split be 6, 8 and 10s, but it doesn't really matter.

i need to setup my car better for launching. i can only dream of cutting 1.6 60's nevermind a 1.39 that is sick. im running a billet 67mm turbo. my 1 only clean run was a 10.69 at 139.88mph with a 1.91 60'. i did run a 10.55 on the 2nd pass with a 1.78 60' but had a slave cyl issue and it wouldnt fully release the clutch.

What's your setup for launching? What dyno did you make 525 rwhp on, seems like you should be making more power than that to go 140 mph which is awesome, unless it's just the better turbo compared to mine that helps you.

I don't have a 2 step or a clutch valve. I'll be looking it to those at some point. I made that power on a dynojet. All the dyno types in my area read the same. We tested a dynojet , mustang dyno , dynapack, and a land and sea dyno with a friends cobra and all were 435-440 whp. I think he got the highest number on a mustang dyno. For comparison when I made 450whp with my 35r I was trapping 131-132.

Interesting. For the most part the 2 step and clutch valve just makes it a lot easier and consistent, but you still have to try different things like rpm and amount of time and boost on the 2 step to get good resultst and traction. I could still do 1.5s without all that when I had stock turbos and 411 rwhp. 1.6s should be easy with the right technique and at least half decent traction.

Any updates ?

I pretty much blew the engine Saturday on the first run of the season, in 4th gear after the 1000 ft mark it started cutting out and recorded unusual very high knock readings. Still ran a 10.46 @ 122 with a 1.45 60ft. It did the same thing during a 3rd gear pull on the way to the track. Everything looks normal and good on the datalogs except the knock when it happened, so I don't really know what exactly happened or exactly why. Before this the last recent compression check did show lower compression around 75-80, and it lost a small amount of power on the dyno.

was able to drive it home after bump starting it. compression is now 60 on the piston compression gauge on both rotors, uneven bounces on the rear rotor. It still runs but very hard to start and had to turn up the idle to keep it running, low vacuum at idle.

Dang man. Sorry to hear. But you are using stock apex seals and a small street port? Sounds great if you are. I hope to mine is this fast when its done. Did you ever try the different sized housing out? I was thinking of ordering the 1.15 divided.

It ALS apex seals and a mild streetport to the intake ports. I did put on a 1.32 divided turbine housing over the winter, it made the power curve better, the power doesn't drop off at high rpms like it did before and spool up is quicker, peak power was about the same, 532HP. I'm gonna rebuild the engine with a large streetport. I hope to tear it apart soon.

^ i had the same exact issue but it was after street pulls. either the egt's got up too high or maybe a fuel pressure drop off so check into that. in my case i was running too high of an egt for the ALS seals. nice to have bending seals rather then breaking and ruining all the internals.

I do not log egt, egt shouldn't have been any higher than usual. I do log fuel pressure, when it happened it did show a drop in fuel pressure for only 1 datapoint, I don't know if that is possible to have a drop in pressure for that short of time, there was no other drops in fuel pressure throughout the run and there was no drop in fuel pressure when it cut out during a pull on the highway on the way to the track.

a vacuum cap did pop off of the upper intake manifold during the beginning of the run and that caused the air fuel ratios to be a little leaner (that happened once last year too and the knock readings stayed low/normal) so I am not sure if that contributed to what happened to the engine in 4th gear.

I pulled the engine and took everything off the block yesterday. from what I can see through the exhaust ports the apex seals and the rotors look fine, and the turbo exhaust wheel looks good. I'll tear it apart soon. thanks

a missing vacuum cap would have virtually no effect under boost as it would vent little of the charge air (probably near 1000 CFM in your case) nor would it effect AFR. it would effect idle in vacuum.

hc

I wanna see the carnage.

Pics here - http://czfitnessproducts.com/tom94RX-7/Blown-engine/

wow that is a detonation hit. good dent on the rotor. one question i have is how are the rotor housing surfaces? they look cat scratched a bit. is that true or it is just the pics? i think you have one of the first als seal motors apart so i am wonder how they treat the housings. also how many miles were on it?

For more info and discussion see here https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/pre-turbo-wi-vs-post-ic-wi-dyno-test-results-987107/page3/

the rear rotor housing is scratched up a lot and the front is a little too. it looks like the rear rotor face was hitting the housing, and the rear rotor has a textured surface so I'm sure it would really dig into it. the front rotor has a smooth surfaced, it is different. The front rotor ALS seals feel pretty smooth, the rear ones are just a little less smooth, not bad like the housings are. I don't know how many miles, the display stopped working, it was a little over 2 years old, lots of highway pulls, some drag racing and dyno pulls, not much regular street driving.

nice pass good numbers

Wow thats really unfortunate :( . Great times though! hopefully you'll get to the 9's sometime int he future. :nod:

Ohh wow
 

thats impresive

Hey, this is super late.. but what tires are you running??

Thanks guys.

26x10.5x16 Mickey Thompson ET Streets, these tires are great, stock rims. and 500/525-16 Excelsior Blackwall 26" bias ply tires and spare fd riims for the front when drag racing.

nice time love the wheels off the ground.

Thanks. I got the rotor housings resurfaced and the engine rebuilt with a good set set of rotors and ALS seals, just got the car back on the road and breaking it in. Also put in a new RE-medy high flow water pump from Mazmart.

Built by DJSeven again?

Yeah.

Nice!

VERY impressive -- killer 60'! Did you ever determine root cause of the engine failure?

Thanks. Detonation, my AFR's were too lean, they went up to 12.4 in 2nd and 3rd gear in the high rpms, then the motor started knocking and losing power 1 second after hitting full throttle in 4th gear. I was only running about 500cc of water injection with pump gas. So the AFR's went too lean after a vacuum cap popped off and I wasn't running enough water injection on this day.