What's the best and most well-known brake pads?
03-29-02, 07:10 PM
#26
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are hawk hp+ pads too loud and rotor-warping to drive on the street a few times a week. im also looking for pads and can't decide between the hawk hp+ or ebc greens. i need them for autox, track, and the street once or twice a week.
03-29-02, 10:35 PM
#28
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It's www.pegasusautoracing.com FYI
03-30-02, 12:13 AM
#29
Originally posted by adssoccer
are hawk hp+ pads too loud and rotor-warping to drive on the street a few times a week. im also looking for pads and can't decide between the hawk hp+ or ebc greens. i need them for autox, track, and the street once or twice a week.
are hawk hp+ pads too loud and rotor-warping to drive on the street a few times a week. im also looking for pads and can't decide between the hawk hp+ or ebc greens. i need them for autox, track, and the street once or twice a week.
-Max
03-30-02, 01:03 AM
#30
Ghost Ride the Whip
I know where to get the project mu.
03-30-02, 07:37 PM
#31
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Heh, from personal experience, if you have or are going to get Porterfield R4S pads, DO NOT USE THEM AT THE TRACK!! Worked okay on the street (though I preferred Mazda's stock pads). Just don't expect them to be a street/track pad if you do driving schools or road racing...
03-30-02, 08:46 PM
#32
Lives on the Forum
Porterfield R4Ses are limited competition use...they're mostly used for road or autocrossing, and light track use...R4 or R4E are Porterfield's road racing competition pads...
03-31-02, 06:23 AM
#34
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No--it just means that the R4Ses can't stay fade-free for the duration of a sprint race like the R4 or the R4E can. The R4Ses--as will other compromise road/track pads--will fade after a few laps.
The road/track compromise pads--Hawk HP Plus, Porterfield R4S, Performance Friction Z-rated, Carbotech Panther, and EBC Green Stuffs are all great choices for first time, newly skilled, or intermediate road racing enthusiasts. Once you get to the advanced and instructor levels, and you begin pushing the FD 9/10 to 10/10ths potential every single lap of each 25-minute session (and you have 3-5 sessions per day), only competition endurance pads can hold up to that kind of torture!
This is why I chose Porterfield's R4E (E for endurance) pads. These are "supposed" to last longer, run cooler, and remain fade-free longer than their regular competition R4 pads. Track lapping days are similar to running a series of 25-minute sprint races in one day (if you're pushing the car as hard as I am!).
The road/track compromise pads--Hawk HP Plus, Porterfield R4S, Performance Friction Z-rated, Carbotech Panther, and EBC Green Stuffs are all great choices for first time, newly skilled, or intermediate road racing enthusiasts. Once you get to the advanced and instructor levels, and you begin pushing the FD 9/10 to 10/10ths potential every single lap of each 25-minute session (and you have 3-5 sessions per day), only competition endurance pads can hold up to that kind of torture!
This is why I chose Porterfield's R4E (E for endurance) pads. These are "supposed" to last longer, run cooler, and remain fade-free longer than their regular competition R4 pads. Track lapping days are similar to running a series of 25-minute sprint races in one day (if you're pushing the car as hard as I am!).
03-31-02, 02:49 PM
#35
Rotary Enthusiast
I run R4S all around, and put R4 track pads up front day before event, and change back next day. Track is about 140 mile drive.
For 100 miles at summit point, I wear about 2 mm off ea front pad.
Friend runs PF 93's on a well set-up z28, and they polish and create superificial fine cracks on rotor surface. not a problem.
For 100 miles at summit point, I wear about 2 mm off ea front pad.
Friend runs PF 93's on a well set-up z28, and they polish and create superificial fine cracks on rotor surface. not a problem.
03-31-02, 03:25 PM
#36
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Can't agree Manny. Depending on the track, I don't think that you need to be at 9/10ths or above to overload the R4s pads. And driving schools often run 20 to 30 minute sessions, which are definitely long enough periods to overload the pads. It's not good to have pads that *may* stand up to "first time, newly skilled, or intermediate road racing enthusiasts" since, at least for the first two groups, these are just the people that you don't want to have lose their brakes.
I have not used and won't comment specifically on the other compromise pads, but for the foregoing reasons, I believe that people are better off getting a set of track pads and switching when they go to the track. As you know, it's really not much more effort than rotating the tires.
And speaking of the torture that you inflict on your brakes, have you been to the track with the new brakes yet? I still want to hear your review! I also want to hear how the catch can works out.
I have not used and won't comment specifically on the other compromise pads, but for the foregoing reasons, I believe that people are better off getting a set of track pads and switching when they go to the track. As you know, it's really not much more effort than rotating the tires.
And speaking of the torture that you inflict on your brakes, have you been to the track with the new brakes yet? I still want to hear your review! I also want to hear how the catch can works out.
03-31-02, 07:47 PM
#38
Lives on the Forum
Don't have all the parts for the Type RS brakes yet...still waiting for the hard lines.
The oil catch can didn't work. The oil leaks out of the dipstick line and 90-degree elbow that's inserted into the FD's oil filler neck cap (a hole was drilled to insert the 90-degree elbow...oil leaks out of the gap between elbow and hole).
I'll be modifying the oil catch can prior to my 27/28 April PCA drivers ed at Putnam Park. I hope to have my RS brakes installed by then...
As a first time drivers ed student (1997), I was fine with R4Ses. During my intermediate skill events (1998, '99), I started to fade the R4Ses (and HP Plusses) during each session.
As recently as the past couple of years (2000, 2001, 2002) I've been using track wheels/tires/brake pads...and swapping back to road setup after the event.
I'm currently looking into full roll cages, real racing seats, and Willans harnesses...so if anyone has any info on Kirk roll cages (I hear M2 is way to EXPENSIVE), PM me!
Happy Easter!
The oil catch can didn't work. The oil leaks out of the dipstick line and 90-degree elbow that's inserted into the FD's oil filler neck cap (a hole was drilled to insert the 90-degree elbow...oil leaks out of the gap between elbow and hole).
I'll be modifying the oil catch can prior to my 27/28 April PCA drivers ed at Putnam Park. I hope to have my RS brakes installed by then...
As a first time drivers ed student (1997), I was fine with R4Ses. During my intermediate skill events (1998, '99), I started to fade the R4Ses (and HP Plusses) during each session.
As recently as the past couple of years (2000, 2001, 2002) I've been using track wheels/tires/brake pads...and swapping back to road setup after the event.
I'm currently looking into full roll cages, real racing seats, and Willans harnesses...so if anyone has any info on Kirk roll cages (I hear M2 is way to EXPENSIVE), PM me!
Happy Easter!
04-01-02, 02:17 AM
#39
Ghost Ride the Whip
I'm telling you guys, go for the project mu b-force pads, you can't go wrong with them get them from tony at rotary xecret 7, he stocks them and can ship it out the same day usually
Johnny, where did you get your endless pads and how much did they cost?
Johnny, where did you get your endless pads and how much did they cost?
04-02-02, 07:48 AM
#43
OG
Originally posted by Ef-Dee
Has anybody heard of Mintex brake pads???
Has anybody heard of Mintex brake pads???
.. Dust is low...stopping power for the track though I have no idea.
04-20-02, 10:21 AM
#45
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Oh man I never thought buying pads wld be this hectic!!!!!!!!
BOTTOM LINE: Im ready to order up a set, I dont autoX (but may try atleast 1-2 events this yr) but when I go out driving I do like running her hard at times on the backroads and opening her up on the highway.
What PADS shld I get? Preferably w/out eating my rotors. (from what Ive read thus far it looks like its narrowed down to the HPS's,HP+'s or the GrenStuff)
HELP!
TY!
BOTTOM LINE: Im ready to order up a set, I dont autoX (but may try atleast 1-2 events this yr) but when I go out driving I do like running her hard at times on the backroads and opening her up on the highway.
What PADS shld I get? Preferably w/out eating my rotors. (from what Ive read thus far it looks like its narrowed down to the HPS's,HP+'s or the GrenStuff)
HELP!
TY!
04-20-02, 12:07 PM
#46
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Does anyknow know about cermanic brake pads.
I found these Akebono Brake Pads Link is below. But they aparently don't have fitments for rx-7s on their page...
http://www.forparts.com/akebono.htm
I found these Akebono Brake Pads Link is below. But they aparently don't have fitments for rx-7s on their page...
http://www.forparts.com/akebono.htm
04-20-02, 01:53 PM
#47
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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Originally posted by 1FooknTiteFD
I used to use the porterfield R4s on the street and they were ok. For front and rear they were only like $160, but I quickly changed to the project mu b-force which are $200 for all sides. The change was well worth it as pedal control and braking power increased dramatically. People who know me know i drive my car very hard and I have never once faded these pads even when driving on thunderhill these pads have shown their worth. As far as other pads go, I hear that hawks like to eat rotors and leave a lot of dust which if gets wet can stain your wheels. I have another friend who has the EBC reds, but again, the project mu is still better because it has more pedal control and stopping power. you cna get it at www.rxecret7.com
I used to use the porterfield R4s on the street and they were ok. For front and rear they were only like $160, but I quickly changed to the project mu b-force which are $200 for all sides. The change was well worth it as pedal control and braking power increased dramatically. People who know me know i drive my car very hard and I have never once faded these pads even when driving on thunderhill these pads have shown their worth. As far as other pads go, I hear that hawks like to eat rotors and leave a lot of dust which if gets wet can stain your wheels. I have another friend who has the EBC reds, but again, the project mu is still better because it has more pedal control and stopping power. you cna get it at www.rxecret7.com
How do you guys think these Project mu b- force pads are??? I've never heard of them but I'm not a road racer either.
I drive my car fast and hard on a daily basis. I'm gettin into autox and want to do a driving school this summer that will be hard on pads.
I was thinking of getting the greens but what do some other think about the Project mu b-force pads???
I'm looking for something I can drive daily, race on the weekends, doesnt dust bad, doesnt squeel. Dont want to spend over about $200 for all the way around. My entire brake system is currently stock.
Thanks,
STEPHEN
04-20-02, 02:35 PM
#48
Ghost Ride the Whip
stephen from what you have just said, it sounds like the Project Mu's would be ideal for you. Project mu is a respectable brake company in japan. A lot of high end race cars in japan use project Mu brakes for the circuit. In my opinion, the project mu b-force is superior to the EBC green. My friend has EBC's on his FD and while it is a pretty decent pad, I think the project u is better because it has more pedal control and stopping power. I drive my car very had (just ask jumprdude or jfd3s) and I have never ever faded them. I even went to thunderhill using these pads and never faded them. You can get these pads from tony at www.rxecret7.com There are two models: The b-force (the one I'm running now) that will will run you about $200 for the front and rear and the other one is the HC titan which will run you about $400 for the front and rear. It is about time for me to get new pads as well and at this point, I am looking at purchasing the Titans to see how they are. I hope this helps, goodluck and have fun at driving school stephen
