What's the best and most well-known brake pads?
I mean stuff like carbon-metallic brake pads...
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Hawk HPS is a probably the best street pads. Get them for $40 a pair at Tirerack or pegasusracing.com. They are pretty gentle on rotors, don't dust too much (close to stock), but grab harder than OEM and don't screech as much. Others such as EBC Green costs twice as much but the performance isn't that much better if at all. Hawk HP+ is more for light track use. Hawk Blue or Black are for heavier track use.
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cool, thanks!
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You'll need to define your application more clearly, as different pads perform well for one purpose, but may not be appropriate for another purpose!
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I guess I'm looking for the best stopping power, doesn't matter whether it's loud or comfy, I like raw stopping power ;)
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When cold, or on the track?
I'll assume you want street pads, which means they have to be able to stop you when cold and not eat your rotors. Hawk HP+ will give you good performance at the expense of squealing and dusting. Hawk HPS fade too easily, so you probably don't want those. Powerterfield R4S are supposed to be decent street pads, too, but I have never tried them. EBC Green or Red might work for you, with less dusting and squealing than the HP+. PFC makes great pads, but I don't know which compounds are still available for the FD, as I know the ones that I wanted at one point got discontinued. -Max |
Originally posted by djantlive Get them for $40 a pair at Tirerack or pegasusracing.com. |
Don't get EBC Red Stuffs. They don't stop well, and they dust like MAD!
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For strictly street use, the Hawk HPS pads are a great value. Low dust, quiet. Just don't autocross or road race on HPS, you'll melt these pads in 10 laps (at least if you drive like I do)
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I have and use Porterfield R4S pads on the street and am pretty happy with them. They dust a little more than stock, but absolutely no squeal, and are excellent as street pads and good as light track pads.
Another person I know is using Project Mu's brake pads on the street and he likes it, he says it takes away some of the soft pedal feel? that the Porterfield R4S pads give? On the track I have used the Performance Friction PF93 compounds as well as the Porterfield R4s... the PF93s are superb. Excellent grip when hot, seems to have a lot of bite, does not eat your rotors tremendously when cold (though they squeal horribly), major downside is their cost ($230+ for just the fronts!!) and they do leave some kind of residue on your rotors that supposedly helps with grip (with the pads), but causes other types of pads (like the R4S) to squeal when used with the rotor. The residue goes away after awhile when using another pad though. The R4 pads are a lot cheaper than the PF93s... bite is not as good as the PF93s and grip isn't as high but overall quite good for hard track use. Be sure you follow their bedding procedure with any Porterfield pads, since if you don't bed them right they will fade the first time you use them hard. Then there's the Hawk Blues... a person I know who pushes hard on the track says these are _the_best_ for hard track use, they are cheap and they seem to grip better the hotter they get. I can't argue, since he is taking it deeper into the turns than I am. The downside is that they will absolutely eat away your rotors when cold, and the brake dust (of which there is plenty) is extremely corrosive. Both the PF93s and R4s are not like that. |
Thanks guys!
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Jumprdude:
Where's your source for Portherfield R4s and PFC 93s? What are you paying for the R4s? Ef-Dee: I've tried Carbotech Panther and Panther Plus compounds. These are the ultimate road/track pads, but I would NOT recommend you use the Panther Plus on the road too long. The Plus compounds are used on the road to get you to the track and back, but not for daily use (too much dust, and rotor wear when cold). The Carbotechs Panther Plus and regular Panther bite hard when the brakes are cold, with the Plus compounds getting even better when the Panther Plusses heat up. Both Panther compounds have excellent "release" characteristics for better, smoother brake-turning (known as "trail braking"). I see they've added a new Panther compound, XP...looks like Carbotech's top-of-the-line race compound. Very high friction coefficient of 0.60, and a very wide usable temp range of 200 to 1450 degrees F. This means you can slap the pads on at home, drive to the track, do your hotlapping, drive home, and swap back to your road pads. The Panther XPs will be my new track pad for this season:) Here's Carbotech's weblink directing you straight to the different friction compounds they offer. If you're interested strictly in road compounds, then Panther compound is the pad for you. High friction coefficient (0.54), wide temp range (150 to 1100), low dust, and low noise. The wide temp range means they'll be stable to use for hotlapping too, but will fade more quickly then the Panther Plus or the XP compounds. The Panthers are an outstanding choice for SCCA Solo II racing. http://www.carbotecheng.com/prod-ct-compounds.htm |
Max,
I see the Carbotechs are the pads everyone's using at the Open Track Challenge? How do you like the Panthers? Which compound are you using? |
Originally posted by SleepR1 Jumprdude: Where's your source for Portherfield R4s and PFC 93s? What are you paying for the R4s? The R4 pads I get from Porterfield direct as well. I don't recall exactly how much I pay for them (I probably have the receipts stashed away at home somewhere, let me know if you want I can dig them up)... but ~$120 for the fronts. The R4S (the street pad) is quite a lot cheaper, I believe. Porterfield Enterprises: http://www.porterfield-brakes.com |
Thanks, JumprDude!
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The Carbotech Panther XP compounds were not available for my '93 Rx7 R1, so I ordered Porterfield R4E pads instead (thanks for the contact JumpRDude!). The R4E pads are available directly from Porterfield--"Paula" was very nice . The "E" designation stands for endurance racing.
Pad numbers (and $cost) were--AP331 for the fronts ($119) and AP332 for the rears ($89). $208 for the fr/rr set. These will be my track-only pads. The R4Es are made of the same carbon kevlar friction material as the old R4 (and R4-S, "S" for street), except the "Es" run cooler, last longer, remain fade-free longer, and are apparently easier on the brake discs. I like the ceramic heat shielding on the brake backing plates of the Porterfield pads. These help fight heat transfer to the (albiet) bigger Type RS brake calipers. My road/autocross pads are the EBC Green Stuffs. These are also carbon kevlar material, so brake pad film transfer compatibility issues that arise from swapping from road pads, to track-only pads, then back to road pads, should be ameliorated by going with the same carbon kevlar compound materials at least in theory:) Thanks to Max Cooper for reminding me about pad film transfer issues. Hope everyone has a great time at MADS this weekend at VIR! |
anyone try Project Mu or Endless pad?
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Yeah, how are Endless pads? Are they just used in showcars and serve no real purpose? lol
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The Endless pads were used on the Triple M Mazda FD Rx7-SP for Australia's Eastern Creek 12-hour Enduro back in 1994 (or 1995?). The white Triple M Mazda Rx7 No. 7 (driven by John Bowe) beat the Porsche 993 Carrera S Club Sports. Triple M Mazda Rx7-SPs never had to do a brake pad change, while the Porsches had to do multiple brake pad changes...
My source for this information was a video that Mazda Australia sent me. The video highlighted the Triple M Mazda Rx7-SPs' race for the win in Eastern Creek against formidable competition from Porsche's 993 Carrera S Club Sports! |
Originally posted by SleepR1 The Endless pads were used on the Triple M Mazda FD Rx7-SP for Australia's Eastern Creek 12-hour Enduro back in 1994 (or 1995?). The white Triple M Mazda Rx7 No. 7 (driven by John Bowe) beat the Porsche 993 Carrera S Club Sports. Triple M Mazda Rx7-SPs never had to do a brake pad change, while the Porsches had to do multiple brake pad changes... My source for this information was a video that Mazda Australia sent me. The video highlighted the Triple M Mazda Rx7-SPs' race for the win in Eastern Creek against formidable competition from Porsche's 993 Carrera S Club Sports! RE Amemiya use Project Mu on their GT300 car also. |
I used to use the porterfield R4s on the street and they were ok. For front and rear they were only like $160, but I quickly changed to the project mu b-force which are $200 for all sides. The change was well worth it as pedal control and braking power increased dramatically. People who know me know i drive my car very hard and I have never once faded these pads even when driving on thunderhill these pads have shown their worth. As far as other pads go, I hear that hawks like to eat rotors and leave a lot of dust which if gets wet can stain your wheels. I have another friend who has the EBC reds, but again, the project mu is still better because it has more pedal control and stopping power. you cna get it at www.rxecret7.com
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I run EBC Greens and they work very well.
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Have you run the EBC Green Stuffs on track...did they melt like my EBC Red Stuffs did?
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Originally posted by 1FooknTiteFD I used to use the porterfield R4s on the street and they were ok. For front and rear they were only like $160, but I quickly changed to the project mu b-force which are $200 for all sides. The change was well worth it as pedal control and braking power increased dramatically. People who know me know i drive my car very hard and I have never once faded these pads even when driving on thunderhill these pads have shown their worth. As far as other pads go, I hear that hawks like to eat rotors and leave a lot of dust which if gets wet can stain your wheels. I have another friend who has the EBC reds, but again, the project mu is still better because it has more pedal control and stopping power. you cna get it at www.rxecret7.com |
are hawk hp+ pads too loud and rotor-warping to drive on the street a few times a week. im also looking for pads and can't decide between the hawk hp+ or ebc greens. i need them for autox, track, and the street once or twice a week.
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I have the EBC Green Stuffs on the car (FD) now. Low dust, quiet, good cold braking...haven't tried them on the track or autocross yet...
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It's www.pegasusautoracing.com FYI
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Originally posted by adssoccer are hawk hp+ pads too loud and rotor-warping to drive on the street a few times a week. im also looking for pads and can't decide between the hawk hp+ or ebc greens. i need them for autox, track, and the street once or twice a week. -Max |
I know where to get the project mu. |
Heh, from personal experience, if you have or are going to get Porterfield R4S pads, DO NOT USE THEM AT THE TRACK!! Worked okay on the street (though I preferred Mazda's stock pads). Just don't expect them to be a street/track pad if you do driving schools or road racing...
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Porterfield R4Ses are limited competition use...they're mostly used for road or autocrossing, and light track use...R4 or R4E are Porterfield's road racing competition pads...
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Sure, where "light track" means you're stopping no harder than you would on the street...
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No--it just means that the R4Ses can't stay fade-free for the duration of a sprint race like the R4 or the R4E can. The R4Ses--as will other compromise road/track pads--will fade after a few laps.
The road/track compromise pads--Hawk HP Plus, Porterfield R4S, Performance Friction Z-rated, Carbotech Panther, and EBC Green Stuffs are all great choices for first time, newly skilled, or intermediate road racing enthusiasts. Once you get to the advanced and instructor levels, and you begin pushing the FD 9/10 to 10/10ths potential every single lap of each 25-minute session (and you have 3-5 sessions per day), only competition endurance pads can hold up to that kind of torture! This is why I chose Porterfield's R4E (E for endurance) pads. These are "supposed" to last longer, run cooler, and remain fade-free longer than their regular competition R4 pads. Track lapping days are similar to running a series of 25-minute sprint races in one day (if you're pushing the car as hard as I am!). |
I run R4S all around, and put R4 track pads up front day before event, and change back next day. Track is about 140 mile drive.
For 100 miles at summit point, I wear about 2 mm off ea front pad. Friend runs PF 93's on a well set-up z28, and they polish and create superificial fine cracks on rotor surface. not a problem. |
Can't agree Manny. Depending on the track, I don't think that you need to be at 9/10ths or above to overload the R4s pads. And driving schools often run 20 to 30 minute sessions, which are definitely long enough periods to overload the pads. It's not good to have pads that *may* stand up to "first time, newly skilled, or intermediate road racing enthusiasts" since, at least for the first two groups, these are just the people that you don't want to have lose their brakes.
I have not used and won't comment specifically on the other compromise pads, but for the foregoing reasons, I believe that people are better off getting a set of track pads and switching when they go to the track. As you know, it's really not much more effort than rotating the tires. And speaking of the torture that you inflict on your brakes, have you been to the track with the new brakes yet? I still want to hear your review! I also want to hear how the catch can works out. |
I have endless's street pads...
dust is low...stopping is alright..price is too high :).. |
Don't have all the parts for the Type RS brakes yet...still waiting for the hard lines.
The oil catch can didn't work. The oil leaks out of the dipstick line and 90-degree elbow that's inserted into the FD's oil filler neck cap (a hole was drilled to insert the 90-degree elbow...oil leaks out of the gap between elbow and hole). I'll be modifying the oil catch can prior to my 27/28 April PCA drivers ed at Putnam Park. I hope to have my RS brakes installed by then... As a first time drivers ed student (1997), I was fine with R4Ses. During my intermediate skill events (1998, '99), I started to fade the R4Ses (and HP Plusses) during each session. As recently as the past couple of years (2000, 2001, 2002) I've been using track wheels/tires/brake pads...and swapping back to road setup after the event. I'm currently looking into full roll cages, real racing seats, and Willans harnesses...so if anyone has any info on Kirk roll cages (I hear M2 is way to EXPENSIVE), PM me! Happy Easter! |
I'm telling you guys, go for the project mu b-force pads, you can't go wrong with them get them from tony at rotary xecret 7, he stocks them and can ship it out the same day usually
Johnny, where did you get your endless pads and how much did they cost? |
Victor,
Had a friend get them when he was in HK...cost $200 bucks for all 4. Johnny |
Heck that's not bad at all! I paid $208 for Porterfield R4Es!
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Has anybody heard of Mintex brake pads???
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Originally posted by Ef-Dee Has anybody heard of Mintex brake pads??? |
I used to use Mintex carbon metallic for my Impreza, but I can't find em anymore! Where did you get yours Johnny?
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Oh man I never thought buying pads wld be this hectic!!!!!!!!
BOTTOM LINE: Im ready to order up a set, I dont autoX (but may try atleast 1-2 events this yr) but when I go out driving I do like running her hard at times on the backroads and opening her up on the highway. What PADS shld I get? Preferably w/out eating my rotors. (from what Ive read thus far it looks like its narrowed down to the HPS's,HP+'s or the GrenStuff) HELP! TY! |
Does anyknow know about cermanic brake pads.
I found these Akebono Brake Pads Link is below. But they aparently don't have fitments for rx-7s on their page... http://www.forparts.com/akebono.htm |
Originally posted by 1FooknTiteFD I used to use the porterfield R4s on the street and they were ok. For front and rear they were only like $160, but I quickly changed to the project mu b-force which are $200 for all sides. The change was well worth it as pedal control and braking power increased dramatically. People who know me know i drive my car very hard and I have never once faded these pads even when driving on thunderhill these pads have shown their worth. As far as other pads go, I hear that hawks like to eat rotors and leave a lot of dust which if gets wet can stain your wheels. I have another friend who has the EBC reds, but again, the project mu is still better because it has more pedal control and stopping power. you cna get it at www.rxecret7.com How do you guys think these Project mu b- force pads are??? I've never heard of them but I'm not a road racer either. I drive my car fast and hard on a daily basis. I'm gettin into autox and want to do a driving school this summer that will be hard on pads. I was thinking of getting the greens but what do some other think about the Project mu b-force pads??? I'm looking for something I can drive daily, race on the weekends, doesnt dust bad, doesnt squeel. Dont want to spend over about $200 for all the way around. My entire brake system is currently stock. Thanks, STEPHEN |
stephen from what you have just said, it sounds like the Project Mu's would be ideal for you. Project mu is a respectable brake company in japan. A lot of high end race cars in japan use project Mu brakes for the circuit. In my opinion, the project mu b-force is superior to the EBC green. My friend has EBC's on his FD and while it is a pretty decent pad, I think the project u is better because it has more pedal control and stopping power. I drive my car very had (just ask jumprdude or jfd3s) and I have never ever faded them. I even went to thunderhill using these pads and never faded them. You can get these pads from tony at www.rxecret7.com There are two models: The b-force (the one I'm running now) that will will run you about $200 for the front and rear and the other one is the HC titan which will run you about $400 for the front and rear. It is about time for me to get new pads as well and at this point, I am looking at purchasing the Titans to see how they are. I hope this helps, goodluck and have fun at driving school stephen
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