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i know this may have been covered before but i havent found a good answer for my case. the rear end on my ls1 powered FC squats really bad on hard acceleration, i know IRS is designed to do this, but i was hoping to cut down on it some. its pretty sketchy at high speeds while accelerating, the rear end dances around alot, i think DTSS eliminators are supposed to fix that? but some stiffer struts should cut down on the squat, and im hoping it wont dance around as much either. im looking to do this on the cheap, any recomendations on some stiffer replacment struts?
You only have struts in the front, replacing them won't solve anything, the rear uses shocks. Stiff shocks is a bad way to control stuff like squat, better to do it with stiffer springs and matched shocks. DTSS eliminators could well help you out.
If you change the rear, you need to change the fronts to match a stiffer rear, otherwise the handling will get worse and it'll start oversteering a lot more. As for shocks, it depends on what you run for springs, some performance non-adjustables are fine for most drop springs, but if you're running coilover sleeves, you'll want some adjustables like KYB AGX, Tokico Illumina or Koni Yellow.
well i like oversteer better than understeer, haha. i dont know if this is the right way to go about this, but im getting new tires soon and it will be staggered 245 front, 275 rear. i believe that combo would lend itself to more understeer, maybe stiffer rear shocks would balance it out. but i dont know much on the subject, im looking more for straight line performance than i am handling in the corners.
i want to keep the stock ride height, and also im on a budget. so probably non-adjustables will work, but i can get never used adjustable koni's for my car from the previous owner for 200 shipped. said he paid 250 for them, i thought they cost more though
With that much stagger, you're going to have to change the suspension balance pretty substantially to avoid massive, grinding understeer. You will need to shift the front/rear spring bias to the rear, go for a larger rear sway bar and keep you rear dampers pretty firm if you want any oversteer at all. On these cars, if you want neutral or oversteer handling, you should avoid stagger.
Unfortunately, stiffening up the rear enough to compensate for the stagger will decrease the ability to hook up off the line. There's a reason you don't see drag cars at the road course, and vice versa.
well i need the widest tires i can in the rear for traction, which is about 275. i believe 255 is the widest i can fit in the front. i dont do any type of road racing. just straight line. i do like to mess around sometimes and drift around corners, nothing serious to where i would be pushing the handling limits of the car.
There are 2 NOS x Rear Mazda Factory Race RX7 SA/FB shocks for sale in Australia. They are externally adjustable and made by Tokico. Price is $540 USD plus shipping. I have dealt with the vendor and purchased a NOS RX2 Oil Cooler from him. He is very good to deal with and built a replica Daytona RX7 using Mazda Factory Race parts. These must be surplus. He also has a MFR RX7 Gear Shift for sale.
To reiterate what has been already said and add some more:
-Your front suspension are struts (coil spring over shock/damper in a structural suspension assembly)
-Your rear has shocks (aka: dampers).
-Shocks/dampers are transient devices, they slow down the movement of the suspension but do not reduce peak travel.
-Stiffer rear shocks will cause the car to squat slower but it will still eventually squat the same amount.
-Stiffer rear springs will reduce the peak amount of squat.
-A staggered tire setup does not guarantee the car will understeer, especially when the car has a V8.
-Buy stiffer lowering springs and shocks, and or save up for better coilovers.
Here's an adjustable Ground Control coilover setup for half the price of BC coilovers: