Once you modify it it's not stock anymore. It's a modified stock part, not a stock part, there's a difference.

A 255/40/17 has the same sidewall height as a 225/45/17, and a 275/40/17 has taller sidewalls, so your statement makes no sense, as the AR of a tire doesn't tell you shit without the rest of the information about the tire. That guy's using 45 series tires, is he a looser becaue he's living "the lifestyle of 45-series tires"?

While he might DD that car I bet it makes rubbing noises frequently when turning at any speed, or when going over speed bumps or doing anything that causes the suspension to compress much. To me if the car's tires are rubbing and you have to be careful about how you drive to avoid rubbing then they don't fit and there's something wrong with the car that needs to be fixed.

https://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5571/1014185pl5.jpg
https://img165.imageshack.us/img165/305/1014186qb7.jpg

gtr dori techs for the win!

17x9.5 +15 with a 225 fits perfectly on stock guards :D

You have 9.5 +15 up font aswell?

I understand the idea but its such a goofy argument...

people just need to be more specific when the spread info on the internet.

"under stock fenders THAT HAVE BEEN ROLLED A LOT" is the way you guys should really state the claim.

man that makes me sad.
you can fit a 17x10 +35 and a 275/40r17 tire in a stock FC rear wheel well with just a flattened fender lip... but you stick on a teeny tiny little itty bitty 225 tire, man that makes me sad inside.

isnt there a saying.. every time you stretch a tire, god kills a kitten ? lol.

at least have fun with a 225 in front and a 255 out back sheeeeeeeeeeesh.

Yes it's kind of a stupid thing to argue about, but it's an important point to make because when others try it on truly stock fenders they'll find that it doesn't really fit. Also, not everyone's willing to roll the fenders, and fewer are willing to really stretch them.

So from now on when posting info about wheel and tire combos that require fender rolling/stretching, be sure to specify.

yeh. only borrowed those to get home on , as i killed all my tyres drifting..
there was heaps of clearance between the wheel and the coilover...

i have a set of 18x10s coming for the back, but they will only have 235s on though :P

i run 17x9 +12 up front on stock metal guards.. with advan neovas ad07's 215/45r17

Wheels
 

18x8.5 +35 235/40-18
18x9.5 +35 255/35-18

will this combo fit on my fc as is or will i be needing a spacer? will these tires clear everything?

thanx fellas

front will hit coilover.... need minimum +28ish

front tire is tall too, will rub front as mentioned

lol, yea it will rub (maybe, they are pulled).

You will be able to turn fine.

Good job. you are right again.

If you have nothing to add then don't post. If it rubs then to me it's "broken" and needs to be fixed.

I'm looking into the ADR M-Sport wheels. the measurements are
F- 18x8.5 ,35mm offset with tires 245/40
R- 18x9.5, 35mm offset with tires 275/35

will these fit with 30mm wide fenders?
Do I need spacers?

look at my post about half way up this page..:wallbash:

it will not fit... no matter how big your overfender you have... as they will be hitting the coilover ...

minumum you will need 20mm bolt on spacers... but really.. why not get wheels that fit in the first place?

because adr m-sports are hot.
you will only need 10mm spacers with coilovers. i have 17x9 +24 w/ 255/40 up front.

You dont even know what youre talking about

"turning will be impossible"

Please please shut up. You add nothing, telling a guy who DRIVES HIS CAR AROUND that turning is going to be impossible is as smart as telling a bird mid flight, that it cant fly.

I said "it would seem", that's a statement that qualifies that what was said was based on the available information, which at the time was only the picture and the wheel and tire size. For all I knew it never moved an inch with that setup.

From the pics it does look as if the tire's practically touching the fender. If that's the case when the wheel's straight ahead then it'll only get tighter when the wheel is turned, making contact that much more likely. Since the tire is up inside the fender that contact could limit steering angle, compromising the cars drivability. Since it looked so very close the contact looked as if it would happen at a fairly low steering angle, especially if it's compressed at all from any cornering forces, making the car severely compromized. Now I'm not saying what was said in this paragraph is true for that particular car and I never portrayed it as a statement of fact before, I'm just saying that's what I thought based on the looks of it.

I've proven time and again that I know what I'm talking about and you only ever talk out of your ass, so do yourself a favour and shut up. You also appear to need an english and a reading comprehension lesson, because you seem unable to read and comprehend what others say, you just pick and choose what to listen to, which distorts the meaning to suit your own personal adjenda.

Has anyone tried using Aero style steel racing wheels on an FC? This oval track club I'm going to run with requires a steel 13" wheel like an Aero, Bassett, Barts,Marsh.... a wheel of that nature but, I've heard that a 13" wheel won't clear the brakes and also that no company makes a 13" diameter wheel with the 5 lug pattern. Does anyone have any info or ever tried any of this?

the smaller single piston brakes might clear. you shouldnt need the big brakes on an oval anyway

I have a few posts in another thread, is the post count conting only the posts on this thread? Darn...... Maybo now I have 2

^^^ any picture with that 17x9 with 215/45/17 thanks.

Wouldn't 215/45/17(17X7) on front and 245/40/17(17X9) on the rear be the best setup for the 2nd gen considering the overall height difference would be a tenth of an inch, no mods would need to be done to make the tires/wheels fit, and the sidewall would be tall enough preventing impact bubbles/rough ride?

I don't like that set-up due to the stagger front versus back...

If you got gobs of power, then the stagger can help minimize power oversteer.

Personally, I like the 235 / 45 / 17 front and 255 / 40 / 17 rear - you can go 17" x 8.0" front and 17" x 9.0" rears no problem.
If you're non-turbo and not making that much power, dropping down to a 225 / 45 / 17 in all 4 corners is a nice set-up, and keeping the same size wheel / tire allows you to rotate front to back - 17" x 8.0" front and back.


-Ted

What about NA cars in excess of 200 whp?

225 F, 245 R
225 F. 255 R
235 F, 245 R
235 F, 255 R

I have a 17 x 8 and a 17 x 9 wheel.

I'd prefer a 235/40/17 due to a slight reduction in height giving a little better clearance for less chance of rubbing, but it's a reasonably minor change.

I'd say no matter what power you should always try to maximize the front contact patch as these cars have a natural tendancy towards understeer due to the stock geometry and the stock springs and sways reinforce that. Maximizing the front tires will lessen the negative effects on the balance that having wide rears will give. It can all be tuned out with suspension tweaks, but in the end that's just reducing the grip on the grippier end to match that on the other end. If I was in need of 245's in the back you'd probably be seeing me rolling fenders to get some 245's on 9" wheels in there.

Remember, it's better to get a stickier, narrower tire/wheel than a less sticky wider one, as it'll be lighter and give better handling, acceleration, braking and ride comfort.