Thanks, it seems like going with a 9.5 is pushing the front to it's limits.

For wanting to stay with unrolled fenders and not really having to play with suspension much, yea pretty much. If you want to start pushing things you can get a 10.5-11" wide wheel up front with a 285-295, but it takes some work. But for what you want a 9.5 +45 with a 255/35 will fit like a glove.

Just remember that if it is close, throw in some negative camber. you will be fine.

18x9.5 +30 with 245/35/18 no rubbing at all.

I also run the 18x9.5 +45 all the way around. I did a fender roll and sit on 265/35. I did a track day at Sebring with no issues.

I'd just plan to roll your fenders. I've seen them catch with relatively un-aggressive setups, and once that happens you're fucked.

feed fenders in front... pulled fenders in the rear.
wheels are 18x10.5 +22 all around
front tires are 265/35 18 toyo r1r (in this pic) i now changed it to a 255/35 18 r888
rear tires are 295/30 18 toyo r888

i eventually want to go 11.5 in the rear with a higher offset and some 315's or something

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/...1b5274e0_b.jpg

You guys think I could get away with a 18x10+38 up front with a 265/35 for track use?

I think it will depend on how low your ride height is and what tires you go with. I'm running 18x10 +35 up front with 265/35 A048s. The tires are right at the edge with no wheel gap, but it doesn't rub.

You guys think I could get away with a 18x10+38 up front with a 265/35 for track use?


I raced with that 18x10.5 +38 with 265/35-18 on stock rear fenders and the front fender lips rolled under and maxed front camber- no problems.

If you were to order 18x10.5 wheels to run all the way around, what offset would you choose. Im thinking +44. Suggestions?

the farthest you can go in from the hub is about 186mm. +52MM is the max I would go in for a 10.5" wheel.

I think ideal would be +50MM to keep the scrub radius the same.

I run a +42MM 18x11.5" front and rear with 285/30/18 with about -2 degrees camber up front maybe a little less -1.3 degrees rear.


I have run and still do run 18x10 +38mm 265/35/18 front and rear. The front does rub the fender liner some. I am 25" front and 25.25" or so rear ride height.

Did you have your Nt03s widened or were they ever produced in that size?

If you were to order 18x10.5 wheels to run all the way around, what offset would you choose. Im thinking +44. Suggestions?
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Since the offset centers the tire between the fender lip and the suspension, it starts to depend on how much camber you are going to run on what offset you want.

More negative camber pulls the top of the tire closer to the suspension.

If you KNOW the car will primarily be street driven and only up to -1deg front camber I would opt for a +50mm offset on a 18x10.5 if you want to fit the widest tire possible.

If the car will be tracked or auto-x as well and so have an aggressive alignment with ~2-2.4deg front camber I would go shallower with the offset like you say +44mm on that 18x10.5 to fit the widest tire possible.

You should be able to run a 295 without too much work and the right alignment/offset.

I guess if you go for a higher offset like +50 and then re-purpose the car for competition you can add a 5mm spacer. But if you know what you want from the start it sure is nice to run without spacers.

widened, yes.

You can widen 18x10 +38 wheels to 11" wide and they will also fit perfect on the car front and rear, if you do get too close to the coilover spring or rear trailing arm, run small spacers, but I think you will be fine.



the 11.5" width is perfect for the 295/30/18 AD08R with a 11.5" tread width. or the others which have 11.2-11.3 tread widths.

you can also widen a 9.5 +38 to 10.5" (end up being +50mm offset).

How expensive is it to widen wheels?

Obviously it will be somewhat dependent on where its done, but I believe I paid $150 each to widen a set of 18" aluminum wheels.

I'm running 18X9.5 +45 Enkei RPF1's with 275/35/18 Toyo R888's on all four corners.

I'm lowered on Tein coil-overs on stock fenders, pulled and rolled.

Attachment 633948

Would I recommend it? Ehhhh....not really.

These wheels are just loaners from my boss at work (awesome boss, right?)... Otherwise I wouldn't normally run something so wide up front.

I can turn fully, but I do hear the tire lightly scrape against the fender liner plastic a little bit sometimes. The fender liners are admittedly a little beat up and the clip/mounting points had to be cut when I had the fenders rolled which is probably why/when it scrapes. Otherwise, it might actually be just fine.

I have a friend who ran 285/35's on his LS1-FD on stock fenders and never scrubbed but he was at stock ride height.

If you are lowered at all, be warned.

On stock fenders, lowered...I wouldn't recommend more than 255/35/18 personally. Just for the sake of it.

255/35/18 on a 9.5" rim is a perfect fitment, btw. The 275/35's do balloon a little bit.

Hoping to get some ccw 18x11 +47 in the spring time

Hi guys

Im wheel shopping and had a fitment question. I am dumb with this stuff so I appreciate the help.

I am on megan coilovers, trailing arms ect and have rolled rear fenders, otherwise im stock bodied.

I've read and believe the most aggressive I can run is the following-

18x11+50 in the rear with r888 295/30r18

18x9.5 +48 in the front with idk tire. Car has 245s right now and tramlines (sp?) pretty badly

Will these fit?

Can I go more aggressive?



Thanks

I would run a 18x11 + 45mm offset. With an 11" +50mm you will be pushing the rear very close to the rear trailing arm, especially with a 295 tire (you can run this front and rear).

you are getting into the area of literally measuring out the tire width and section width on a 295/30/18 tire to ensure fitment (some 295's are extremely wide like the AD08r and PS2).

I am running a 18x11.5" wheel with +42MM offset with 285 tire and tread width of 11". the tire is very close to the rear trailing arm. You will also need aftermarket coilovers (which you have). hopefully the springs aren't overally large.

Tramlining can happens with large + scrub radius, you want the offset to be close to stock +50mm as possible. width can make tramlining worse with + scrub radius.

If you want aggressive I suggest going with a 18x11 +45mm offset and a wide 285/30/18 tire or conservative 295/30/18 tire. tirerack or the tire manufacturers typically post the tread and section widths of the tires.

The max I have found going in from the hub is 185MM ish.

I have found I could get away with a 18x11 +50mm front (might rub a tiny bit at full lock on the spring, and run a small rear 3-5mm spacer to push the rear wheels out from rubbing. up to you.

Here is that 18x11 +45 with 295 in front and rear on my car. This FD is raced- full suspension stroke is used with no rubbing (well, top of tire tread does bottom on top of plastic fender liner at full compression- had to zip tie the wire harness up.)
https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...-side-rear-jpg

https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...ont-fender-jpg

Thanks for the replies guys

Lol, this is some confusing stuff! I do prefer a more aggressive offset so I'm happy to go lower than +50.

The only reason I'm going for the 295 r888 is that I'm making 540rwhp and over 500rwtq, so traction (or lack thereof) really is an issue for me.

So 18x11 +45 with a narrow 295 should work and for the rear.

For the front I need a +50 offset so 18x10? Would that make a 255 or 265 work?

are you driving on the street? do more drag racing or road course type stuff?


If drag racing I suggest going with a smaller diameter wheel and running a lower PSI to elongate the contact patch, if road course and want to rotate, go with 18x11 front and rear and 295/30/18 or 285/30/18.

99% Street driving. Some drag racing but I also like to throw it into turns at times.

Don't care to rotate and would prefer staggered setup.

Thanks for the replies guys

Lol, this is some confusing stuff! I do prefer a more aggressive offset so I'm happy to go lower than +50.

The only reason I'm going for the 295 r888 is that I'm making 540rwhp and over 500rwtq, so traction (or lack thereof) really is an issue for me.

So 18x11 +45 with a narrow 295 should work and for the rear.

For the front I need a +50 offset so 18x10? Would that make a 255 or 265 work?

If you desire the understeer from a narrower wheel and tire up front that 18x10 +50 and 255/265 will work fine.

But you also said you would like a "more aggressive offset" and +50 would be sunken in 3/4" compared to the 18x11 +45 I show above.

If you run 0 front camber this 18x10 +50 will work out well.

If you want some camber you might want to drop your offset into the low 40s/high 30s to keep it from looking so sunken in.

This is all looks- not performance- 18x10 +50 is perfect for handling performance/low aerodynamic drag/fitting a fat tire with very low camber.

You can go to ~ +35 offset on 18x10 with 255 and some camber or ~ +38 offset on 18x10 with 265 and some camber. This is with front fender lips rolled under.

I see what ur saying. Thanks for the info guys.

Looks wise I think this car is perfect and appears to be stock bodied.

Shrug
Looks pretty close to my 18x11 +45 with 295 up front to me, but the car is obviously lower (and the attendant camber gain).

If that is the fitment you want up front with a 10" wide wheel- a 18x10 +30 with a 255 tire and 3deg negative camber would do it.

The rear wheel appears to stick out more than mine with more tire stretch to tuck it back in on the top. I would say 18x11.5 +38 with a 295 tire and 1 deg negative camber would do it.

Looks wise I think this car is perfect and appears to be stock bodied.

If by rolled and pulled fenders you mean stock bodied.

Look at the reflection over the rear wheel arch and the flatter top side profile the front fenders have and where the front tire sidewalls have obviously rubbed a rolled under/contoured fender edge.

Looks more aggressive than my roll/pull to me.

Great info. I really appreciate the help man. My rears were rolled when I bought the car and I can't find anyone to give them a pull for me locally, but it looks like I'll need to search harder to get the look I want.

Great looking car by the way. I'm considering a f14 as well.

Looks good, but won't perform as well as BLUETII's car.

Notice the difference in ride height. The roll center on the still FD is much lower, which will cause more body roll, which requires more spring, and stiffer anti-roll bars because it is so low.

That can be fixed with different suspension components, all of which cost $$$.

Anyone want to give me some insight? Before you flame I've researched but fitment hasn't really been my best suit so I figured I'd ask for those who enjoy helping. Right now I have 17x 8.5" fronts ( 3 piece fikse fm10's fronts are 6.5 barrel with 2" lip) et of 37mm. Rears are 17x10 (7.5 barrel with 2.5 lip) et of 43mm. Fronts are currently on 255/40/17 and rears are 275/40/17. I've really been thinking pushing the width slightly further and don't think I'll run any clearance issues but would love some input from my fam. I'd like to take the lips from the rear and move to the front (2.5) and buy new 3" lips for the rear and maintain tire sizes as I plan to do auto x and aggressive driving here and there. I have no current rub issues whatsoever. Have the front fender liners in and rolled fronts. Rears aren't rolled but I have no problem doing so and think I'll have to. I don't believe the lip increase changes any clearance aside from the fender proximity. So end result would be fronts of 17x9 ( .50" increase) Rears of 17x 10.5 ( .50" increase) Thoughts!? Thanks in advance

Ps I have coilovers

Could someone review my wheel selection and let me know what they think? I got the wheels for a good price and they are close on the offsets listed in this thread but slightly off. I do not have tires for them yet so any advice would be great!

Rays gram lights 57xtreme
18 x 9.5 + 40 Front
18 x 10.5 + 40 Rear

I was thinking 255/35/18 Front and 295/30/18 Rear

Thoughts?

Fronts will fit fine at 18x9.5 +40 and 255 and a little camber (might want to roll front fender lips under at the top so it does not catch going up steep drives with wheel turned because if it catches it leaves an ugly crease)

Rear will fit 18x10.5 +40 and 265 on stock fender/camber.

Rear will fit with 18x10.5 +40 and 275 with rolling the fender lip under and a slight pull to the fender (better for rear traction) or over 1.5deg negative camber.

To fit 295 with 40 offset in the rear will require a fairly big roll/pull or lots of negative camber (which I assume you don't want as it looks like you are going for a drag set-up).

I would run 255 front and 265 rear if I had those wheels on my FD.

I had 18x10.5 +38 265 front and rear on my FD before the 18x11 +45 295 front and rear and it was great.

I agree with him as well. I would run a 255/35/18 and 265/35/18 rear with those widths and offsets. The taller tire of a 265 will do well for traction anyway.

if you are interested in some tires I have a set of (2) I would be willing to sell in 265/35/18 tire size. Bridgestone RE-11 if you want them. I would also sell all (4) if you want. new unused never mounted tires.

I'm looking at running tr Motorsport c3 rims (17x9+48) or enkei nt03s (17x9.5+44). Looks like I'd be fine with the c3 rims and can put a spacer in the back but will need a roll on the enkei rims for the front. Tire size looks like 255/40/17 is recommended in this thread.

If you re rolling your fenders, I recommend a 17x10 RPF1 +38mm with a 255/40/17 tire. it will get you better handling and I don't think the fitment is too hard.

Not much of a fan of the looks on those. Not going for anything too extreme since this is never tracked.

Just to let you know, the 17x9.5 NT03 is not concave. I have nt03's on my car and I like the concave look. just a FYI.

Mind posting a few pics when you get a minute? Think most of the pictures I've been looking at are the 18s which are concave, didn't notice 17s weren't.

17x9.5 +44mm. not concave. I widened a set of 18x10.5 +30 to 18x11.5 +42.7mm, rpf1 18x10 +38mm black car., 17x10 rpf1 on s2000, 255/40/17 tires.

17 x10 +38 RPF1 all around work on a FD? I'm sure I can get it to work with camber but will it perform well?

Also, big brake clearance?

With rolled fenders and just a little negative camber (-1.3 camber all around will be fine, this is the recommended street negative camber you should have anyway) you should fit no problem. It will perform very well. The tires in this width are around 9.5-10" wide (tread width) for extreme sports tires, the slight stretch will give direct steering feel, progressive break away characteristics. This is the set up I would personally run on my car if I went with 17's.

I am unsure how BBK friendly they are? You could run up to a 5mm spacer if needed and still fit.

I really would like to fit at least some 275's under there. I feel like a 265 would be too much stretch, and that really isn't the look I am going for. I don't mind rolling the fenders at all, but how much of a pull do you think it would take?

I really would like to fit at least some 275's under there. I feel like a 265 would be too much stretch, and that really isn't the look I am going for. I don't mind rolling the fenders at all, but how much of a pull do you think it would take?

Not much pull with that roll. I bet the act of rolling the lip all the way back to the outer contour of the fender at the top would pull it out enough.

It depends on what kind of driving you do. tires work best in their optimum heat range. wider tires on the street don't do as well as some of the skinnier tires if you don't heat them up to temp.

traction is a function of optimum heat range, go wider if your tire is too hot, also larger sidewall tires at lower pressures elongate the patch for traction in a straight line, if that is what you are interested in.

My car doesn't really spin with 265's or 285's with warm temps, in the cold they can spin pretty easily.

I currently run 245/40's on a 8.5" rim and I spin through 4th, so I need as much traction as I can get.


Another option I was thinking about was getting wide body rear fenders. something like the 25mm shine Feed style rears. My biggest concern about doing this would be how it would look. Since I already have my wheels, would it look awkward if I were to do a 295 or 305 in the rear with widebody fenders and a 255 up front with stock fenders? Would the rears look much more recessed with the +40 offset (Without using wheel spacers) compared to the front. I also can't find a picture of a car with just rear widebody, so that alone may look dumb?

Also with how you were talking about tires getting better cold traction when stretched, would the wider tires actually hurt me in the traction department? I would not be taking the wheels to the track (I have ET Streets on stockers for the strip), just street driving. maybe an occasional autocross.

Thanks!

I'm looking into 255/40/17s all around on the 17x10s. The star specs have a tread width of 9.6". Should be predictable. Thoughts? Or other tire recommendations?

Set up for Canadian National Time attack
 

In 2014 I won the Atlantic Regional Time Attack Championship with my 93 FD stock drive train and 245/45/16 on 8.5 wheels.

This year our track is hosting the National Competition and I wouldn't mind owning that title as well. I have the home court advantage on a very technical 1.6 mile 11 turn short track with many elevation changes and a top speed of about 110 MPH.

I think going to a wider tire would help my chances significantly. The track is not the smoothest and I think a skinny 18 inch would do more harm than good. I have been toying with the idea of a 295/35/17.

The front and rear fenders are rolled and beat out with a BFH so that is not a concern. I am concerned with rubbing on control arms, and when turning, along with not altering the scrub radius so that it changes the turn in of the car more than my current wheels (16x8.5+40 F / 16x8+30 R. Does anyone have a track setup that they have tried. or could provide some insight; it would be appreciated.

I think it would be an excellent set up and I would run it on my car as well in those exact sizes.

The tire choice is good as well. I like all of the extreme sports tires class. I have been in AD08, RE-11, XS and have liked all of these in dry weather. I am in a street driven car and do canyon/mountain roads.

What tires are you running? make/model right now?

traction going forward is different than turning traction.


My philosophy when it comes to handling (turning) is to maximize grip and confidence/predictability. This lends itself to a smaller tire sidewall and slightly stretched sidewalls. this holds the tread in place when turning. the width gains traction as long as you can get it to temp.

straight line traction is about going to a taller tire on a small diameter wheel and lowering the PSI to elongate the contact patch in the forward direction. you run as wide as you can get to temp and gain traction. the more WHP, the wider the tire.

if you are just spinning tires, perhaps your tires aren't to temp? the tires are not a sticky tire, or your tires aren't wide enough and overheat.

its normal for cold tires on cold surfaces to have poor traction. this will be the case with any tire you choose.