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Originally Posted by aznpoopy
(Post 7730009)
that's an odd question.
it's been said that one pound of unsprung weight is akin to adding anywhere from 2 - 10+ lbs of sprung weight to the vehicle, depending on who you are asking. not quite! adding 44 lbs to unsprung weight would therefore "feel" like you are adding anywhere from 88 to 500+ lbs to a car. in my experience, it's true. in 2003 (my stupid years) i had some extremely heavy axis 17x7 shit wheels on my 240sx that must have weighed 20+ lbs each. one day, i got a flat and had to use my oem 15x6. switching back to stock wheels made the car feel ridiculously nimble in comparison. seriously, i was shocked. i never put those axis wheels back on. dont take what i say out of context peace |
Originally Posted by magus2222
(Post 7732097)
cool, another person taking what i say out of context and trying to correct me to sound smart. if you actually read what i said, it is clear what i stated "44 lbs is 44 lbs." if you have graduated high school, which is obvious you have not, you would realize that i stated adding 44 lbs is another 44 lbs of UNNECESSARY weight. now, what you stated was also right, that even thought its 44 lbs, it could feel like alot more. you want to know why 44 lbs of dead weight could make the car feel sluggish.............do some physics on objects in rotational motion, then get back to me.
dont take what i say out of context peace i thought i was being friendly O_O i wasn't attacking your post. i just thought it was a good illustration for bryan downs, and your post didn't really explain the consequences of adding unsprung weight. |
Anyway, according to BryanDowns they're 26lbs, not that bad for an 18x10, especially one of that sort of price.
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Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7732587)
Anyway, according to BryanDowns they're 26lbs, not that bad for an 18x10, especially one of that sort of price.
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wheel weights has a non-descript "CCW" at 22 lbs in 18x10.
lightest is buddy club p1 qr at a hair over 16 lbs, which is lighter than the next three wheels which are magnesium. wow. anyway, for general comparison te37's tip in at 19 lbs bbs lm's just over 21 lbs rpf1 "rc's" come in 23.6 lbs |
There are other options.
1) Go with a serious racing street tire, like the RE-01R. You'll get loads more grip and still not screw around with hauling another set of wheels. Don't kid yourself - there is always more time to be wrung out of a street tire, and plenty more to learn. 2) I would not go 18" for autox. I would do wide 17s. But then again you have torque to burn compared to me, so the decision is yours. 17s will turn easier and be less damaging on tires when your alignment is set up for fast autocrossing. Dave |
Originally Posted by Black91n/a
(Post 7732587)
Anyway, according to BryanDowns they're 26lbs, not that bad for an 18x10, especially one of that sort of price.
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There is another issue I feel obligated to bring up:
With an 18" wheel and 30 profile tire, your camber has to be *just right* to get max grip in the turns. Otherwise, much of that extra width isn't being pressed to the pavement. So there is a risk that this upgrade may not improve things at all. A 17" rim will give you more sidewall and better tolerate imperfect camber, probably giving you more usable grip. What tires/wheels are you running now? What class are you in? Dave |
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
(Post 7737492)
There is another issue I feel obligated to bring up:
With an 18" wheel and 30 profile tire, your camber has to be *just right* to get max grip in the turns. Otherwise, much of that extra width isn't being pressed to the pavement. So there is a risk that this upgrade may not improve things at all. A 17" rim will give you more sidewall and better tolerate imperfect camber, probably giving you more usable grip. What tires/wheels are you running now? What class are you in? Dave Running my street wheels, which are Racing Hart C2 3-piece 8"/9" wide w/ 235F/275R wide RT615s. The reason I was looking at 285 or 275 wide tires is because the price difference (with these wheels, compared to other wheels for not as wide tires) isnt alot in the whole scheme of cost for the combo. I'm running Emod,and while I'm not really out to be "fastest there", I'd like to at least be competitive enough to have fun :) |
In my opinion, 275 width tires on a 9 inch wide wheel isn't a good idea for auto-x. Too much tire for such a narrow wheel.....
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275 wide RT615s are pretty wide and pretty sticky.
IMHO, only an R-compound is really going to change things. You'll lose a second or two instead of a tenth or two. You could use an RA-1 and drive a short, dry distance to the autox site, but it's probably better to get V710s and not drive them on the street. Dave |
i agree you should just put some 245 (or 265) v710's on stockers. its a good, cheap, effective combination.
too bad you missed out on SSR comps 18x9.5 +45mm from tire rack for $199 each closeout special. thats what i'm running on 285/30's this coming season. |
There's a guy who just put stock sized V710s on eBay. 225/50R16. I almost bought them but my set's hardly worn. These plus stock wheels are cheap, light, fast, and GRIPPY!!
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
(Post 7736837)
There are other options.
1) Go with a serious racing street tire, like the RE-01R. You'll get loads more grip and still not screw around with hauling another set of wheels. Don't kid yourself - there is always more time to be wrung out of a street tire, and plenty more to learn. Dave |
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