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-   -   Cheap 18x10 +50 wheel for autox? (https://www.rx7club.com/suspension-wheels-tires-brakes-20/cheap-18x10-50-wheel-autox-719888/)

BryanDowns 01-09-08 10:02 PM

Cheap 18x10 +50 wheel for autox?
 
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...=10&bp=5-114.3

Besides how they look.... whats wrong with these for running 285/30/18 V710's on an FD on all 4 corners for autoxing?

A little background: I dont autox for points, or to be highly serious. Purely for fun. I dont go to every event, just when I feel like it. I am rather tired of being beat by nearly every car with race tires just because they have race tires. I am pretty consistantly one of the fastest on normal street tires.(as far as I can tell since its not like the standings mention what brand tire others are running ;) ) Given this, I figure I'm not going to learn a whole lot more running street tires, so I wouldnt mind spending a little bit of cash to get some sticky rubber. What I wont do is spend $1000+ for lightweight expensive 18x10's and then buy race rubber on top of it. Admittedly Id NEVER buy wheels like this for driving on the street. However, 1 event a month and 4-6 runs at each event I cant honestly justify paying high dollar for wheels.

Thoughts on these? Any experience with this brand? My only real worry is they weigh like 35lbs, or they are so weak they would bend from lateral loads exerted by 285 wide v710's....

dhays 01-09-08 10:27 PM

Hard to beat the price, that is for sure. I really don't like the way that discount tire doesn't give the weights of the wheels or how they are made. At that price, I'm guess that is both gravity cast and heavy.

The Tire Rack has ASA JH8 18x9.5 ET45 wheels on closeout for $159. 23.8 lbs and low pressure cast. That may be more than you want to spend and it is a tad narrower, but it should (barely) fit according to the nifty Excel spreadsheet.

The only racing I've ever done is with running shoes, not tires so I haven't a clue.

GoodfellaFD3S 01-09-08 10:47 PM

Honestly, I think you'd be much better off getting some V710s in a 245/45 size on the stock wheels.

BryanDowns 01-09-08 10:53 PM


Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S (Post 7720808)
Honestly, I think you'd be much better off getting some V710s in a 245/45 size on the stock wheels.

How come?

Does your opinion change if I have 370whp and 355ftlbs?

Black91n/a 01-10-08 12:31 AM

By the looks of them brake caliper clearance might be an issue, and they're probably really heavy, hurting performance.

Hypertek 01-10-08 12:57 AM

theres a few guys runing these already .. dont know about that offset , is that the only offset they come in?

magus2222 01-10-08 01:38 AM

ya, considering how i work for that company, those are the most garbage wheels we offer. seriously, save your pennies and get some gram lights, or something light and wide.............................................. ......enkei rpf-1 anyone?

peace

GoodfellaFD3S 01-10-08 08:43 AM


Originally Posted by BryanDowns (Post 7720830)
How come?

Does your opinion change if I have 370whp and 355ftlbs?

Stock wheels are extremely light. That was my main factor in suggesting that.....what engine set up are you running? never know nowadays, could be a boosted inline 6 for all i know :lol:

ptrhahn 01-10-08 08:55 AM

I'd look for a decent used deal... call Fritz... or just stick with stockers. You'll get most of the benefit of R-compound rubber, even in 245, compared to street tires of a larger size. Won't be as much as w/ 285 race rubber, but you won't pay a terrible weight penalty (which also costs time, in both sheer weight, and deteriorated handling).

You could also consider 17x9's or 9.5's w/ 255/40's or 275/40's... that'll save you some money and the rim sizes aren't quite as rare.

BryanDowns 01-10-08 05:56 PM


Originally Posted by magus2222 (Post 7721355)
ya, considering how i work for that company, those are the most garbage wheels we offer. seriously, save your pennies and get some gram lights, or something light and wide.............................................. ......enkei rpf-1 anyone?

peace

Not to argue they might be garbage... but apparently you didnt read my first post where I said I will NOT spend big bucks for wheels I will use 6-8 times a year.... Gram lights are rather pricey to say the least...

Since you work there, what do they weigh?

magus2222 01-11-08 01:10 AM

uh, i have no idea, i would have to look when im at work, but i would say at least........................too much. dude, i have no idea, but EASILY twice as heavy as stock.

peace

jacobcartmill 01-11-08 01:22 AM

i bet they weigh more like 45 or 50 lbs

Eggie 01-11-08 12:34 PM

Check out this thread too.

Mahjik 01-11-08 12:44 PM


Originally Posted by BryanDowns (Post 7720830)
How come?

Does your opinion change if I have 370whp and 355ftlbs?

You can get a set of Rota Slipstreams in 17x8.5 and run a 255 size (all around) r-comp on them. They are around 15 lbs with a good offset:

http://www.racinglab.com/rowhsl1752.html.

BryanDowns 01-11-08 05:23 PM

Discount tire direct says 26lbs a piece. I just got off the phone with them.


I told them what wheel and the guy said "thats a great choice for your mustang" lol.

aznpoopy 01-11-08 08:50 PM

for $100 bucks a wheel they are hard to beat


Originally Posted by Hypertek (Post 7721244)
theres a few guys runing these already .. dont know about that offset , is that the only offset they come in?

9 +24
9 +35
10 +22
10 +50

GoodfellaFD3S 01-11-08 09:36 PM


Originally Posted by Mahjik (Post 7727056)
You can get a set of Rota Slipstreams in 17x8.5 and run a 255 size (all around) r-comp on them. They are around 15 lbs with a good offset:

http://www.racinglab.com/rowhsl1752.html.

this is probably your best bet right here.

GoodfellaFD3S 01-11-08 09:42 PM

I know this is not exactly accurate math, but from the slipstreams to those 18x10s you're looking at 11 more pounds per wheel, 44 more pounds total rotating weight. that's a BIG difference.

BryanDowns 01-11-08 11:37 PM


Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S (Post 7728971)
I know this is not exactly accurate math, but from the slipstreams to those 18x10s you're looking at 11 more pounds per wheel, 44 more pounds total rotating weight. that's a BIG difference.


But also 30mm per side, so 60mm front, and 60mm rear. I would think that the 120mm more of race rubber would offset the 44lbs of unsprung weight? I dont know, thats just my guessing.

Any input into that?

magus2222 01-12-08 02:29 AM

weight is weight no matter how you cut it. unless you have the power to put down the weight issue, and the brakes to stop that weight from its path to destruction, it wont offset anything.
44 lbs is 44 lbs, thats half a backstreet boy.

peace

aznpoopy 01-12-08 04:27 AM


Originally Posted by bryandowns
But also 30mm per side, so 60mm front, and 60mm rear. I would think that the 120mm more of race rubber would offset the 44lbs of unsprung weight? I dont know, thats just my guessing.

Any input into that?

that's an odd question.

it's been said that one pound of unsprung weight is akin to adding anywhere from 2 - 10+ lbs of sprung weight to the vehicle, depending on who you are asking.


Originally Posted by magus2222
44 lbs is 44 lbs.

not quite! adding 44 lbs to unsprung weight would therefore "feel" like you are adding anywhere from 88 to 500+ lbs to a car.

in my experience, it's true. in 2003 (my stupid years) i had some extremely heavy axis 17x7 shit wheels on my 240sx that must have weighed 20+ lbs each. one day, i got a flat and had to use my oem 15x6. switching back to stock wheels made the car feel ridiculously nimble in comparison. seriously, i was shocked. i never put those axis wheels back on.

Herblenny 01-12-08 06:19 AM


Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S (Post 7720808)
Honestly, I think you'd be much better off getting some V710s in a 245/45 size on the stock wheels.

I agree with Rich... If money is a factor I would buy good tires (or slicks) for stock rims.

But also you should know that any good 285/30/18 tires will be well over the cost of those wheels... Some street tires in this size could be in the range of 300-350 a piece ($1200 a set). I recently bought a set of Bridgestone RE050A PP, 285/30/18s for my SSRs and it was as much as what I paid for the rims after I got them shipped and mounted.

Overall, I would listen to Rich and stick with stock rims (used set 300-400) and 245/45/16s (pending type of tires, $600-850/set).
And since you said you are not going to be competitive in autox, I would just put some cheap/reasonable performance tires on it and just have fun:) If you dial in your suspension and slicks, I bet you'll be pretty damn competitive!

Friend of mine here uses stock rims and 245s and did pretty well..

NeoTuri 01-12-08 06:41 PM

lightweight corners > wide tires

Black91n/a 01-12-08 07:53 PM

I've always heard the opposite, sacrifice weight for width within reason. Those who've tested this have found it to be true. 26lbs is not terrible for a cheap wheel that big. I'd still try to find something lighter though.

NeoTuri 01-12-08 08:01 PM

Within reason I suppose, 35lb/wheel is not.

magus2222 01-12-08 08:48 PM


Originally Posted by aznpoopy (Post 7730009)
that's an odd question.

it's been said that one pound of unsprung weight is akin to adding anywhere from 2 - 10+ lbs of sprung weight to the vehicle, depending on who you are asking.



not quite! adding 44 lbs to unsprung weight would therefore "feel" like you are adding anywhere from 88 to 500+ lbs to a car.

in my experience, it's true. in 2003 (my stupid years) i had some extremely heavy axis 17x7 shit wheels on my 240sx that must have weighed 20+ lbs each. one day, i got a flat and had to use my oem 15x6. switching back to stock wheels made the car feel ridiculously nimble in comparison. seriously, i was shocked. i never put those axis wheels back on.

cool, another person taking what i say out of context and trying to correct me to sound smart. if you actually read what i said, it is clear what i stated "44 lbs is 44 lbs." if you have graduated high school, which is obvious you have not, you would realize that i stated adding 44 lbs is another 44 lbs of UNNECESSARY weight. now, what you stated was also right, that even thought its 44 lbs, it could feel like alot more. you want to know why 44 lbs of dead weight could make the car feel sluggish.............do some physics on objects in rotational motion, then get back to me.
dont take what i say out of context

peace

aznpoopy 01-12-08 08:55 PM


Originally Posted by magus2222 (Post 7732097)
cool, another person taking what i say out of context and trying to correct me to sound smart. if you actually read what i said, it is clear what i stated "44 lbs is 44 lbs." if you have graduated high school, which is obvious you have not, you would realize that i stated adding 44 lbs is another 44 lbs of UNNECESSARY weight. now, what you stated was also right, that even thought its 44 lbs, it could feel like alot more. you want to know why 44 lbs of dead weight could make the car feel sluggish.............do some physics on objects in rotational motion, then get back to me.
dont take what i say out of context

peace

well gosh

i thought i was being friendly

O_O

i wasn't attacking your post. i just thought it was a good illustration for bryan downs, and your post didn't really explain the consequences of adding unsprung weight.

Black91n/a 01-12-08 11:28 PM

Anyway, according to BryanDowns they're 26lbs, not that bad for an 18x10, especially one of that sort of price.

BryanDowns 01-13-08 10:11 PM


Originally Posted by Black91n/a (Post 7732587)
Anyway, according to BryanDowns they're 26lbs, not that bad for an 18x10, especially one of that sort of price.

Out of curiousity, how much does a CCW 18x10 weigh? Ive no idea, but based on size and width, Im guessing somewhere close to 20lbs?

aznpoopy 01-14-08 03:06 AM

wheel weights has a non-descript "CCW" at 22 lbs in 18x10.

lightest is buddy club p1 qr at a hair over 16 lbs, which is lighter than the next three wheels which are magnesium. wow.

anyway, for general comparison
te37's tip in at 19 lbs
bbs lm's just over 21 lbs
rpf1 "rc's" come in 23.6 lbs

dgeesaman 01-14-08 05:17 AM

There are other options.
1) Go with a serious racing street tire, like the RE-01R. You'll get loads more grip and still not screw around with hauling another set of wheels. Don't kid yourself - there is always more time to be wrung out of a street tire, and plenty more to learn.

2) I would not go 18" for autox. I would do wide 17s. But then again you have torque to burn compared to me, so the decision is yours. 17s will turn easier and be less damaging on tires when your alignment is set up for fast autocrossing.

Dave

Mahjik 01-14-08 09:39 AM


Originally Posted by Black91n/a (Post 7732587)
Anyway, according to BryanDowns they're 26lbs, not that bad for an 18x10, especially one of that sort of price.

I'm with you as I don't think that's a bad weight for that size. However, I do wonder what the overall weight will be with tires. IMO, unless someone is actually competing there wouldn't be much of a need for such a sized tire for AutoX. However, if they are competing, they'll most likely spend a little more for a "light weight" wheel.

dgeesaman 01-14-08 11:34 AM

There is another issue I feel obligated to bring up:

With an 18" wheel and 30 profile tire, your camber has to be *just right* to get max grip in the turns. Otherwise, much of that extra width isn't being pressed to the pavement. So there is a risk that this upgrade may not improve things at all. A 17" rim will give you more sidewall and better tolerate imperfect camber, probably giving you more usable grip.

What tires/wheels are you running now? What class are you in?

Dave

BryanDowns 01-15-08 07:27 PM


Originally Posted by dgeesaman (Post 7737492)
There is another issue I feel obligated to bring up:

With an 18" wheel and 30 profile tire, your camber has to be *just right* to get max grip in the turns. Otherwise, much of that extra width isn't being pressed to the pavement. So there is a risk that this upgrade may not improve things at all. A 17" rim will give you more sidewall and better tolerate imperfect camber, probably giving you more usable grip.

What tires/wheels are you running now? What class are you in?

Dave


Running my street wheels, which are Racing Hart C2 3-piece 8"/9" wide w/ 235F/275R wide RT615s.

The reason I was looking at 285 or 275 wide tires is because the price difference (with these wheels, compared to other wheels for not as wide tires) isnt alot in the whole scheme of cost for the combo.

I'm running Emod,and while I'm not really out to be "fastest there", I'd like to at least be competitive enough to have fun :)

GoodfellaFD3S 01-15-08 07:49 PM

In my opinion, 275 width tires on a 9 inch wide wheel isn't a good idea for auto-x. Too much tire for such a narrow wheel.....

dgeesaman 01-15-08 07:50 PM

275 wide RT615s are pretty wide and pretty sticky.

IMHO, only an R-compound is really going to change things. You'll lose a second or two instead of a tenth or two. You could use an RA-1 and drive a short, dry distance to the autox site, but it's probably better to get V710s and not drive them on the street.

Dave

2MCHPWR 01-15-08 08:27 PM

i agree you should just put some 245 (or 265) v710's on stockers. its a good, cheap, effective combination.
too bad you missed out on SSR comps 18x9.5 +45mm from tire rack for $199 each closeout special. thats what i'm running on 285/30's this coming season.

dgeesaman 01-18-08 05:57 PM

There's a guy who just put stock sized V710s on eBay. 225/50R16. I almost bought them but my set's hardly worn. These plus stock wheels are cheap, light, fast, and GRIPPY!!

GoodfellaFD3S 01-18-08 07:43 PM


Originally Posted by dgeesaman (Post 7736837)
There are other options.
1) Go with a serious racing street tire, like the RE-01R. You'll get loads more grip and still not screw around with hauling another set of wheels. Don't kid yourself - there is always more time to be wrung out of a street tire, and plenty more to learn.
Dave

I wish Bridgestone would offer the RE-01R in wider sizes. 265 just won't cut it......


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