GT35R Kits (ask anything relevant to 35R's or kits in this thread)
 

GT35R turbo kits include

Turbo
Tial 44mm gate
Stainless manifold
Stainless DP
Stainless oil feed
oil drain
oil fittings
waterlines
water fittings
Blockoff plates
Gaskets

These turbo's are fantastic on primarily street driven vehicles. Depending on your level of tune you will see anywhere from 350-450whp. Boost curve generally resembles 7@2500 10@2800 12@3100 15@3400 this will very some depending on port size and tune.

With the T4 footprint you will get the same response but it wont fall off at the top. With sharper transient response.

*Manifold and DP are warrantied for as long as you own them.

You can get them ceramic coated for a additional $250 but that adds 7 to 10 days turn around as we do not coat in house.

-Sean

ok, interested. Is this going to be a group buy? And if so, could you break down the price by unit? Also, what are the various fuel upgrades you recommend. I'm looking for something with my stockported motor for street use and occasional road-track use.

Matt

Wont be a group buy these are just going to be threads stickied where all the answers can be found. For road coarse and street these are nice, minimal lag and good power.

I always recommend at least 1680 secondaries which require a rail, a pump, regulator etc.

So how much is the kit (T4)

Sean,

Thanks for posting up this thread. It will surely cut down on the millions of threads where people all ask you the same question. :)

Zach

What's the price on the complete 35R kit? 40R?

35rt3-fd $3299
35rt4-fd $3499
35rt4-fc $3399


*Always Check Back These Prices Will Change From Time To Time. Pricing Will Always Be Listed Here

Zach no problem, I will be putting up some other informational threads as well that will go into turbo sizing, etc. This way no 5 million threads of the same questions.

Posting up pics of the 35R setup might be a good idea! :)

-Alex

Pics and dyno sheets will be up shortly

Thank you!

Could you please explain the diferences in both compressor and exhaust wheel A/R (quicker spooling, power rolling off before redline, sacrafice vs gain, recomended, how to choose, etc.) Can you go with the smallest compressor wheel and the largest exhaust wheel? Would that be most efficient, scarifice too much top end, limit max boost, perfect street choice, bad race choice?

I will be putting a post up real soon going into turbo sizing and what, not should answer most if not all your questions.

-Sean

Given that the turbo represents nearly 50% of the cost of the kit would A-spec substitute a GT turbo for a "traditional" 60-1 turbo, for example. I ask because inevitably I will shoot an apex seal through the very expensive GT turbo. Along these lines, what are typical rebuild costs for GT turbos?

Ramon

Shooting a Apex seal through the turbo be it non-BB or BB is roughly the cost of a wheel, rebalance and labor. I haven't had to replace a CHRA for wheel damage yet. Most CHRA damage is due to oiling issues. With that said it has become harder for me to get wheels as of late. Let me see what I can find out and maybe I can get a price up for just wheel replacement.

-Sean

How about a current (10/05) turnkey price for an installed and tuned gt35 running 12psi max. (including neccessary fuel system upgrades)

Car already has:

- RB Full Race exhaust
- Apexi SAFC-II
- Walbro 255 Fuel Pump (rewired)

Half Street / Half Roadrace application.

Fc, Fd?

FC (1991) according to his profile. :)

-Alex

Yes, sorry, S5 FC.

Hey Sean!! What's this new turbine wheel you were talking about in the single turbo forum? I'm curious about that and how soon it will be available. Thanks in advance.

Zach

I kinda figured with SAFC. I will put something together and send it your way.

-S-

It's actually a compressor wheel I was speaking of. ;)

Zero,

I'm interested in just the turbo (t4), do you sell them all by them self's. You also have alot of experience with turbo's so here's a quick question: I currently have a TD0620G Greddy kit on my FD. I want something more now. Could I swap the turbo out with the GT35, or better yet a T78.

Ok, so how long before the compressor wheel is available and how much of a gain do you think it will be? It's going to be at least another 2 months before I'll have the money for my FC's kit.

Zach

Compressor wheel is available now. I just haven't had a car to test it on yet. If my math is right it should be around a 10% improvement. Which would be nice if it holds true even a 5% increase at 15lbs is around 18hp.

Sean, you are tha' man!! I'm sure you'll let us know when you find a car to test it on. As long as it doesn't cut down on response then I'm sure I'll be up for it.

GCbutter, you came to the right place. You won't find better customer service then here bro!!

Zach

Does this new wheel compromise the response at all? If no hard figures what do your calculations yield, or do you have at least an idea of how it should perform based on the facts and specs of this wheel in respect to responce?

What does this wheel do in plain English? Does it simply fatten the compressor map islands, or does it have a higher efficiency? Or am I way off?

Is it possible to buy only a few items from the kit?
for instance, turbo, manifold and wastegate only?

or turbo, wastegate only ?

I'm trying to get the compressor map from them, but as for response the change should be minimal. I try and keep the response as close as possible to what it was because that is what makes it such a fun turbo on the street. The overall wheel ratio only changes by.03 so you shouldn't notice much difference. I am shooting for a 5-10% increase in output without having a negative effect on response. So if we take Broken09's car for example it did 436@16lbs if we see a 5% increase that puts us at 457whp if I get that I'll be happy if you wanted more at the sake of response I have 1.06 and 1.12 housings as well.

Yes it will be more expensive. I have to pay for the turbo then pay for the wheel to be machined, and the compressor housing to be machined then all of it assembled and balanced. But people need to look at it differently than they normally do. If it costs you $350 dollars to get 21more hp out of broken09's car by putting on a better exhaust or intake. Why do people think $350 dollars more on the turbo is such a bad idea? They shouldn't.

Yes I do sell some things seperately. I'm not sure how cost effective it is in some cases, but I do offer most things seperate.

Sean,
Let's try and do some of this to my car :D. Answer my email :)
-Nic

I'd hate to see Seans inbox, lol
But on a side note his account does act up sometimes and he wont even recieve the email...so I usually send two copies with a two day buffer inbetween each one.

yeah I know I just like to give him shit from time to time :D

I hear ya... I dont like giving Sean a hard time, but ended up looking that way cause I was getting really tired of waiting on the kit. Also on a side note.... did you notice any kinks in the oil drain line on your installation? No matter what I try or do...there is a small goose neck going on down there, it looks like the OMP connector is pushing down on the hose alittle

I'm no longer running the OMP so no I have not experienced that problem... however I remember it being like that just a little. I had to trim the hose slightly and if I remember right I took the drain to a grinder and shortened it just slightly. That seemed to give it a more even bend radius.

Not sure if I missed it, but what size is downpipe in this kit? also I noticed the website says the kit includes heat shielding, but this thread does not. is that still included? thanks.

If I remember correctly the DP is 3". I don't know about the heat shield though.

Zach

Yes it is a 3 inch downpipe in the gt35r with a t4 exhaust housing turbo kit. The heat shielding is for the turbo kit that comes with the gt35r with a t3 housing and short style runners manifold.

Forgive me if this has been covered, but is it correct that only the "T3" 35R kit retains the low-mount, factory airpump-able configuration, and the "T4" version does not?

It is a 3" DP, I can offer a 4" option for those who have 4" exhaust for extra. Ptrhahn, I can make a low mount T4 that should be in the same position as the T3 but that would add some to the price as I currently don't have a fixture to do so it would be a one off.

Would this mean a compromise in anything, i.e.: the length/shape of the runners, or anything that would reduce performance?

Nope just more work for me. :)

Hypothetical situation.... lets say you have an agressive street port or possibly a half-bridge. would the 35r start to wheeze around 8.5-9Krpm? or can it pull solidly up to or past that? I know your site talks about it with a stock port job. just got me thinking.

35R will run out of breath at higher boost levels for sure on bridge motors, the 35RS that I will be releasing soon should work well.

ok, I want 5lbs@2500rpm and 15lbs@7500rpms but I want to keep 15lbs up to 8500rpm's if possible. ...is that even possible? I don't understand which wheel has to be smaller and which has to be larger to acheive this goal. Can you please look at my kit and tell me if I need to change the wheels? I don't want higher boost ability. I don't care if it's out of breath at 20lbs. I don't want power to roll off at 7k rpm's. Do I have to sacrifice low end for this or is that only for higher boost levels? How do I best/most efficiently achieve my goals at 1bar?

This will offer more eff. across the board, and it will keep pulling past 8500rpm while hardly effecting response. It will be slightly off the 35R because of a larger inducer but it will be minimal.

-S-

inducer = compressor?

So it will start at 2700rpm with the RS vs 2500rpm with the R (for example)?
So keep pulling means power will not drop off but will hold 15lbs beyond 7k rpm's?

To acheive my goal:
do I need to increase the compressor wheel size?
do I need to decrease my exhaust wheel size?

Inducer is the entry at which a wheel, turbine or compressor, takes in air. Exducer is where it spits out the air ;)

It will hold 15lbs as long as you want to keep your foot in it.
I think you will be fine with what you have, that said, I think you will like the RS better, and with your stuff here it wouldn't hurt to take advantage of it now. What ports are you running? What IC?

^ cool, i'm learning. :dunce:

Large street port, 14-16lbs on 91oct (CA version), Apexi FMIC, radiator custom angled, dual 25-row Mocal, Viton o-rings, Evans, 850/1300 injectors on oem rails but w/Sard FPR, strait pipe but may add two metal cats in series, Buddy club exhaust, not sure what else is relevant.

What about the exducer? Do I need to change that as well? Do I need to change the snail housing to a 1.06?

oh, let me rephrase previous question: On most dyno charts that i've seen, HP falls off at 7k rpm's. If the turbo holds 15lbs, will the peak HP hold as well or will it fall off at 7k rpm's? I want to keep peak HP beyond redline, if possible.

That's the idea, glad to help.


We can go 35RS,1.06 if you have the large street port, and still keep good response. Power dropping off after 7K rpms, has more to do with motor and manifold than just turbo alone. Peak power point is mainly set by manifold (both Intake and exhaust) than by just the turbo chosen. Running a shorter manifold will help keep power up after peak power point is reached.

-S-

^ ok sounds good, add it to my tab please. So i'm waiting for that and the V-band? Has everything been heat coated?

Would there be any fitment issue with that new strait piped lower intake manifold? I forget who makes it but if it makes a difference then I may get it also.