Also Ernie t.....I have used the atkins solid comer seals since the begining and now use thier latest version....what's your detailed reason for not liking them?

Ive had no problems using mazda corner seals on all my engines. THey work great. Have not used anything that seals as well as the mazda seals. ANd when they break i have not seen them damage anything in the process.


As for people saying the ALS seals and Aviation seals warp too easily? Id be looking at your tune. I have tuned a few engines now to 45psi on methanol and e85 and no warpage issues.

My own car has 35psi on PUMP fuel and sees very high egt's and no warpage issues. In saying that i have warped 3mm ra seals on my old engine with a huge lean out on 30psi with my water injection failing.

i would imagine you might need a little bit more power than that howard.

im planning on doing 200mph in 1.5miles in england and we worked out ill need 670-680 flywheel bhp so about 595whp.

To do it in 1mile id imagine your gonna need about 700whp, but i might be wrong, be interesting to see how you do

Pics of Howards housings and seals
 

Here are some pics from Howard on the housings and NRS apex seals.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...1pchousing.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...pchousing2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...mm1pcseals.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...m1pcseals2.jpg

Atkins will warp prior to breaking. Oem will cause damage, but not like ceramic. OEM will seal the best though. Atkins one piece corner seals are horrible at 600+whp. They will stick and steadily lower your compression. OEM corner seals are by far the best way to go for any setup.

My 2 Cents:

I have been running my Mazda reman motor at 430whp with this combo for about 20k HARD miles and counting:

2mm OEM apex seals (came with the Reman)
Stock ports
Yamalube 2 Stroke oil premixed + OEM oil injection

18psi boost (Precision 6776rsp)....pump gas

....I will be adding meth soon to the mix for high boost....(been running it in my Buick for years without a hitch)

.....I feel that if your tune is good and you want moderate power levels (400-450whp) then you should have NO worries running a 2mm OEM seal....and in my experience with other's motors, the 3mm seals tend to contribute to housing wear MUCH faster than the 2mm....but that could be a host of factors playing in....it just seems that way......my vote is to get some new rotors and go 2mm/premix/meth...that should keep you happy for a long time!

-Jack

Can you explain this more? I assume you mean stick into the rotor and not seal? I just built a 500whp motor with solid corners and I am wondering if the solid corners were a bad idea. All this time I was under the impression that they would be better, since you eventually lose the rubber peices in the OEM corner seals.

yes i think they addressed more into that problem cause now they are dished out in the center....they are not just solid and flat anymore....i have reused the new versions already with no problems....but im not any where near the power levels ernie is.....

i guess it all comes down to what works best for the owner/builder....

im running pts unbreakable seals. did 426hp at 15psi on a 74mm turbo on e85. took the motor apart to find i spun the rotor bearings but my housings are in perfect condition. after a good 5k abusive miles. i know its a low number of miles but hey its still a statistic

to the OP, listen to Howard and Barry. use whichever apex seal you want, but please incorporate an appropriate plug, good premix and effective methods of heat control - everything from intake charge to coolant temperatures.

Something doesn't compute. Your rotor bearings...... just spun?

im not exactly sure how it happen. my motor mount gave out when i was on decel at 150mph and im guess it sent my motor out of balance cause i spun the rotor bearings cracked the e-shaft and broke my front stationary gear. and yet my housing are in perfect condition. weirdest thing ive ever seen