A-Spec GT35R initial dyno
 

Put the car on the rollers for it's initial dyno. Unfortunately, we only managed one preliminary run (after some basic tuning) to 7K before the clutch started slipping and we (Ralph, actually- I didn't do a damn ting :) didn't get it fully tuned. You can clearly see the slipping around 5200 RPM as well as 6K.

Results are encouraging- 362 RWHP @12 PSI on a Mustang dyno with very rich AFRs. Engine is a stock ported Mazda reman with about 15K miles, which include approximately 2K road racing miles (on the old twins).

Ambient temp was 67 degrees, sea level, 68% max inj. duty.

Running 500/1600 injectors, big Bosch pump, -8 lines, 3.75" exhaust, M2 airbox, M2 medium SMIC, and PFC.

New clutch/results forthcoming.

Gene

nice power for low boost =] i was just spinning my tires today on the dyno.. *sigh* gonna hit a dynojet sat.

That's close to 400 on a DynoJet!

WOW!



-Ted

When do you see full boost? What type of clutch were you using? Nice#!!! I am waiting on a GT35r from A-spec right now...and these results make me smile.

355hp @12psi running rich for safety.

how does it have 200tq @ 3k rpm???

Hey you, go back to NP (JK);)

Very good question. I wonder if the stock ports help. If I could make that good of a low end with a single, I would ditch the seq twins...

was the clutch spinning above 6krpm? usually when either the clutch or the tires spin, it'll throw off the dyno #'s since it still thinks you're applying the same amount of torque (to the roller) but your rpm climbs faster. I think mustang dyno uses an ignition pickup for rpm trigger correct?

good low rpm torque #'s btw

only single with lowend like that is the apexi rx6!!!! it's been a while since i looked at FD dyno charts but that looks too good to be true lol

of course youll say its too good to be true.

Maybe Ralph can answer this question, but why is the HP@50 10.00? It should be 11.9 or it will throw the numbers off.
Good numbers though.

Jason

My last dyno made 200 tq at about 3500.... it was around 140 at 3000. I think we might be seeing the effects of the loading of the Mustang dyno... So maybe it is spooled up at that point already on that type of dyno... whereas on a Dynojet the NA-power of the car would have already pushed the RPM above 3000 before much boost was built up.

well dam that sounds great i cant wait to put my car on the dyno at school thats stockports thats ahsome whose kit do have?

Looks good so far, what kind of clutch are you going with?

Yes. I did not spin on a prior run to 6K RPMs where it actually made more torque and a slight bit more HP (per RPM). Ralphs setup uses a crank trigger for RPM to minimize error. Can also calculate losses due to wheel spin, bad clutches, and drivetrain effects.

Gene

Thanks, (glass) man.

I'm going with an RPS 6 -puck.


Gene

BTW- website will be up this weekend, but with a new URL. I'll let you guys know where to find it.

i find more things break in the driveline wiht a 6 puck. i went with the act extreme and ss disk. its holding well!

I may try a full face bronze disc with an extreme plate. I run it in my supra, and they are good for 15,000 of hard driving. The ACT plate (HD) with the disc I am talking about holds ~750ftlbs.

Is that clutch the Pineapple Racing 6 puck? Thats what I've been running since I lost the clutch with the help of Ralph too. :) I love the clutch btw. CJ

Damn...I can't wait to throw mine on the dyno now. My mods below. Looks good. As some have mentioned...hopefully there aren't real discrepancies with the results. I go low, so I was thinking about 350 at 15psi. I'm not good as guessing that.

You should do much better that that. I'd say 390 minimum. Mods are similar, but I did fail to mention that I've pulleys, no AC or PS, and 8.5 lb. flywheel.

Gene

No, its an RPS clutch. Very similar to a 6-puck ACT, but with a sprung center.

As far a driveline wear is concerned, this car is not a drag car- only used for road racing/HPDE events.

Gene

That's a good question. This value adjusts for wind and rolling resistance. It obviously varies depending on the car's arodynamics, tire width, compound, etc. I've been looking into this a bit and there seems to be no real consensus on which numbers to use for a particular car. It seems that 10 is perfect for S2000s since stock the numbers corroborate with factory specs (assuming x% driveline loss). Viper guys use 12 due to the car's crappy aero and steam roller tires.

So- I'm not sure. I'll try to ping Ralph for an answer.

Anyone else?

When I got my mustang dyno they give you a tech sheet on every car made for the past 15 years. It gives the weight and the HP@50. I asked the guys at mustang exactly what that was and they didnt go into it, but said to keep it at what the book says. He said it would change the numbers one way or another. When I get time I will test changing that number.

Jason

Yes, please check it out. ALso not how weight changes the outcome (my car is 240 lbs lighter than a base FD).

Thanks,

Gene

Seems to me that for purposes of comparing set-ups we should try to all use the same number. As for bragging rights, whatever the customer wants, manipulate, and make'm happy. I have seen less reputable shiops dyno the car at one setting, install some crap parts, change the dyno settings, and bingo huge gains from that AEM CAI;) I really like the Supra Dyno site, the author uses his knowledge to weed out thje BS dynos, he includes them, but makes a note as to what they would read SAE, and why they may, or may not be an accurate reflection of the indivduals set-up. What that site lacks, that Wargasm's site has is the abiluity to overlay multiple graphs. Carl

Can't wait to see it again, though I've been enjoying the replacement at the old URL. :rlaugh:

Ha! No shit, what a joke.

Try this: http://www.mantissaconsulting.com/et...ssa_racing.htm

Site needs some updating, but most of the stuff is there.

Regards,

Gene

Tell Ralph you want as much HP and TQ as that Densmore guy in Boise ID.

Allan

thats nice power at 3k like vosko said, you are at about 100 hp at 3k rpm, thats a gt35r has a t04s housing correct, and waht compressor wheel does it use the 60-1? whats the diffrence between gt35r and a to4s other then beign ball bearing?

GT35R uses the GT35R compressor wheel, not the 60-1. As for the compressor maps, they are hardly different at all between GT35R and 60-1.

Now that's a really interesting comment! :)


-Ted

60-1
http://64.225.76.178/catalog/compmaps/Fig9.gif

t61 (Gt35r wheel). used this since no ball bearing like the 60-1
http://64.225.76.178/catalog/compmaps/t61.gif

According to what I've got, they are almost identical for 10-15 PSI boosting (the green lines):

60-1:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...id=83798&stc=1

GT35R:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...id=83799&stc=1

Overlay and outline using scaled images in photoshop:

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...id=83800&stc=1

the compressor mods are fine...how does reducining or going larger in the turbine with the same compressor effect the area of performance on a turbo.
Can going from a .96 to .81/.84 turbine pump the largest flow much sooner (sacrificing the all out top end)? as going to a 1.05 induces lag but more high RPM and top end? Hmmmmm....

Why in the world would you guys like the power curve of that single turbo? You have so little power for so long that unless you drag race you will get smoked before you ever start.
My dyno chart from Ralph gives me about 300 ft of tq by the first reading of 3500 goes up some then then is back at 300 again by the end of my run at 6500. The car was made to respond quick, to allow you to come out of a corner and give it gas and have instant response. You guys are creating low speed slugs. This is why NONE of the high hp RX7's can autox. TOO slow around or coming out of a corner. But hey the 7 was never made as a corner carver was it!

Well, post up some specs on your turbo and a dyno sheet! I'd love to see it!

Also, a lot of people don't autox. If I do any event in my car, it is road course. I have no problems with lag on my turbo (60-1).

Allan (I assume this is Allan, correct?),

Actually this is a very nice power curve compared to most singles. Simple answer is gearing. A modded twin turbo equipped car with 320 RWHP will have more power below 3800 rpms, which is about 19 MPH in 1st and 34 MPH in second. After that the GT35R kicks twin's ass.

Low speed slugs? Maybe. Isn't that the definition of a slug? This is not the ideal turbo for autocross, but its great for road racing. However, O'Blenes autocrosses a 2nd gen with a single not unlike this one. And I KNOW you know who that guy is.

As far as corner carvers are concerned, some of us are tired driving at slow speeds in parking lots (autocross) and have moved up the pyramid of speed (http://www.nsxfiles.com/Pyramid_of_speed.htm) to real corner carving, i.e. road racing.

After you've gotten your ass kicked on road course by a well tuned single turbo FD, you'll know what I mean.

Until then, try to avoid hitting those cones. :

Gene

Stop picking on the cone heads, they tend to be better drivers (for the first 60 seconds anyway), anyway that's what she said;)

Consider this a "Holiday Humor" post :D

Gene you make some very valid points. I used to race open superbike and quite due my desire to stop making hospital visits. Autoxing is great fun, however I do think quite often about going roadracing again. However I do not know how well our cars will hold up nor how competitive they would be in the class (whatever it may be). Also I hate the thought of someone bumping my car. Great points!

As to a great driver for the first 60 seconds, you must be talking about an endurance run. I do my best work within the first 30 seconds, after that age has a way of slowing me down!

:)

Thanks Alan. With regards to classing, we are very lucky in the Northwest as FD can run wheel-to-wheel in ITS and SPO/SPU class. I've not done any wheel-to-wheel in the FD (race a Spec Miata for that) for the same reason you specified. However I still do time trials (Solo I), and HPDE events. The car would be amazingly competitive in the ITE/SPO classes. I've "spanked" 911 GT3s and Vipers at Pacific Raceways with this car with laps times that compare to fully prepared PCA-1 cars.

On another note, I rolled and possibly totalled the Spec Miata in August. Even slow cars can be dangerous! I guess I'm happy it wasn't the FD.

Regards,

Gene

Gene what do you mean by the above classes? Also is their any races at PIR that I could go and race and see if I like it?

Thanks

Allan

These are SCCA club racing classes which are obviously not the same as SOLO II classes. Some regions do have somewhat parallel classing, but ours is a little more liberal. PCA is Porshce Club of America classing. These are ordered from 1- (fastest) through 5 (slowest).

Some info on local classing with SCCA: http://www.nwr-scca.org/race/regulati.htm

As far as checking out a race- yes! Go here for information: http://www.nwr-scca.org/race/index.htm

The new schedule is not up yet, but first races of teh year usualy start in March. Might also be worth checking out some lapping days at Pacific Raceways hosted by Proformance Racing School: http://www.ProFormanceRaceSchool.com/

IN fact, all day lapping, with instructors is a lot cheaper than entry fees for club races. Last time we were was there is was $425 for 6 hours of lapping and an instructor who raced at Daytona. My wife put in over 300 miles on the track that day in our Spec Miata.

Bring you car!

Gene

Well I emailed the School and asked about info. They have something going on the 4th of Dec.

God I hate the thought of hurting my car!

enjoy it and get through it without going balls to the walls. then you have to finish two regionals.......
Just relax if possible and save your car.I havent seen a single FD in club racing.....it would be in ITE.But This would be adventagous to a single but then you need brakes to stop 400hp+
Sorry we hijacked the GT35R thread!

It goes against my nature to not go balls to the wall. You know all the hype about brakes are way over rated. Brakes just SLOW YOU DOWN!

Allan

Also you do not need big brakes to slow down a STOCK car. Well ok maybe I have an intake and exhaust, thats all i'm saying.

No, I didn't mean to disagree with you.
I meant to agree! :)

I just wrote this up, and it is consistent with your statements!

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/TURBO/compmap.html


-Ted

although your choice of x axis points are semi random, since cfm is related to both boost and rpm, it will give someone a decent idea