Oiling system mods. (lots of pics!!!!)
I am performing all the oil system mods that i know of and thought i would share.
My objectives are. 1-No single passage smaller than 1/2" (including fittings). 2-No dual passage smaller than 3/8" (including fittings). 3-As few angled fittings and 90* internal passages as possible. 4-Block the oil galley in that goes trough the dowels (in case the dowel land brakes). 5-Be able to adjust the oil pressure externally (just do). 6-Minimize restriction on the oil pump pickup (turbulence). 7-Increase the oil system capacity (larger filter) 8-Regulate the oil pressure to the turbo without restricting flow. I can't take credit for all of the mods. Some of them i pick up from reading over the years and some are my idea. First are the mods to the oil pump passage. I did the standard porting and polishing but did not spend a tremendous amount of time on it. http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/8...mods020np9.jpg http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5...mods021jk3.jpg http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/2...mods022dz8.jpg http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/9...mods023pt7.jpg I then knocked the plug out of the end of the oil pump galley and enlarged the passage. I feel that this is the biggest restriction in the whole oiling system. I reamed it out to 1/2 all the way into the oil pump cavity and then tapped it (18 X 1.5) so i could eliminate the oil passage that goes trough the front cover. I am also going to plug the bypass valve in the front cover. http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/6...mods018zr8.jpg Plugging the passage to the front cover and bypass valve. http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/3...mods027rp7.jpg Then i removed the casting flash from the oil drain back passage in the front iron. http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/3...mods026dg9.jpg Then i removed the galley plug for the front main bearing. I reamed the passage to 3/8 and tapped it (16 X 1.5). http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/871...mods015fl8.jpg http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/406...mods012sp0.jpg |
I enlarged the area where the banjo bolt for the turbo originally goes so i could tap and plug the galley (blocking oil from the dowels).
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/7...mods025fh4.jpg http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2...mods024ai8.jpg Thats about all the work i did on the front iron. On the rear iron i made a oil filter adapter that eliminated the passage for the pressure regulator. http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/8...mods030ru7.jpg http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/4...mods028rd6.jpg I reamed the rear main passage to 3/8" and radius the passage. http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/8...mods034lo9.jpg http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/3...mods032he2.jpg I still need to make the pickup and plug the oil passage to the dowels in the rear iron. Here are a few pics of the plumbing of the system. http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/3...mods001yu5.jpg http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/4...mods002kl0.jpg http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/2...mods007rq5.jpg Here is a shot of the "Y" that will oil the front and rear mains. It is #10 inlet and #8 outlets. http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/1...mods006fz6.jpg |
Here is a picture of the oil line for the turbo going to the regulator.
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/579...mods003co9.jpg http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/450...mods004ch8.jpg And lastly, here are a few shots of the oil filter adapter with oil pressure adjustment. The #8 line from the adapter is the return from the regulator. http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/6...mods011ac4.jpg http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/7...mods009vb9.jpg http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1...mods008bm9.jpg As i assemble and install the motor i will try and update this thread. |
I found it amazing at how terrible the factory designed the oil system.
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thats a beautiful setup you have there
more pics! |
real nice.
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Very nice, great write up and pics. There isnt alot of information spread around on this, hopfully someone will archive this
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Damn nice job!
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Thanks everyone. It is hard to find a lot of info on oiling systems so i just wanted to put it all in one place. As i build the motor i will post up some more mods including sealing the oil pump without gaskets or paper.
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Wow !!! and here I am thinking that I actually modded my system !!!! amaizing work man !!
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Very nice! I especially like the idea of have an external pressure regulator. Is this incorporated with-in that oil filter adapter?
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Yeah, it is made into the adapter. The 12 pointed nut and 5/16 bolt are the adjustment point.
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noob here no flaming but whats the benefit of all this?
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Where did you get that oil pedistal/regulator? ive looked for external regulators and was never able to find any.
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Originally Posted by CrackHeadMel
(Post 8067636)
Where did you get that oil pedistal/regulator? ive looked for external regulators and was never able to find any.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...S%252BI%252BSS . |
Originally Posted by whereiscarmensandiego
(Post 8067605)
noob here no flaming but whats the benefit of all this?
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so like 400+ hp and trying to get 12k+ rpm this might be a good idea?
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master lubricator
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lube master indeed.
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What did you use to block the upper dowel oil galley in the in the rear iron?
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1/4 NPT plug.
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hmm, i was unaware that the oiling system had so much room for improvement. For a 8k redline motor at say 14 lbs is there anything I could/should do when im already ripping it all apart to add dual massive oil coolers. That all looks like mods you do when building a new motor though
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Good god man that is insane! I guess i missed what happend to your other motor? Was it oil issues?
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Nothing oil related, more along the lines of 27 PSI on three piece seals. I will however need a stout oiling system for this beast https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-drag-racing-167/got-fuel-756944/
Plus all these mods were very cheap. |
So are you going with ceramic seals or 3mm seals next time?
edit: Damnnnnnn!!!! That freakin' setup is sick! Can't wait to see youtube of that thing running. Good luck man! |
Allen
To plug the front oil galley(dowel) I normally open the hole to 7/16 and use a couple of freeze plugs of the same diameter. I don't like use anything threaded in that area so as to reduce stress crack failures. |
Originally Posted by crispeed
(Post 8219937)
Allen
To plug the front oil galley(dowel) I normally open the hole to 7/16 and use a couple of freeze plugs of the same diameter. I don't like use anything threaded in that area so as to reduce stress crack failures. |
AGAIN!! Your such a bad influence on me..first fuel
NOW OIL! jesus christ! your gona make me into a very broke rotor junkie putting all these thoughts of mods in my head. ...yet i still have the need to worship you... |
Thanks wings but i am just a pee-on with lots of time.
Thats a good idea, Thanks Chris. |
Originally Posted by Stanello
(Post 8213677)
What did you use to block the upper dowel oil galley in the in the rear iron?
1/2 freeze plug worked good for the front, back, and the passage to the cover. http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/3...mods662xx7.jpg http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/7...mods663aq0.jpg |
Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
(Post 8296440)
1/2 freeze plug worked good for the front, back, and the passage to the cover.
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Originally Posted by crispeed
(Post 8297990)
Sometimes I use more than one in the turbo oil feed galley! :)
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Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
(Post 8311328)
And as luck would have it thats the only spot on my motor that leaked :lol::lol::lol:
You did very well for your first time. :) |
Cool setup!!!
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I actually have done a few of these mods on my recent streetport build. I get about 50psi idle and it will peg the stock oil pressure gauge anywhere above 3200rpm. (I have an fd regulator)
Its interesting how well you can make the stock oil pump work with just a few little tweaks. And as Mr. Hannover says, its a poorly designed unit :) |
2 Attachment(s)
Lee, a couple of ideas that I would add to this oil thread.
The pump itself leaks at its parting surface. One side can suck air the other side leaks pressure! I do a Judge Ito mod by making the thinnest possible gasket saturated with Loctite 515. Incidentally this gives the pump an extra .0015” clearance so the next step is lap the housing back to the original dimension. I also lap all the gears and the separator plate. Attachment 705077 The other idea is from Lynn Hannover. Remove the pickup tube screen, bell mouth the end and reinstall the screen. It is a little hard to see in this picture. Attachment 705078 |
I addressed both of those problems but didnt take any pictures.
On the pump, i didn't like the idea of a gasket so i used silk thread and gasket maker. Silk thread is what they use to seal the case halfs on aircraft piston engines, there is no possibility for oil to wick past the silk and the gasket maker is only to hold the thread during assembly. As for the pickup, i used a piece of 3/4 id tubing and welded it to the factory flange. Then i heated it with a torch and used a 1/2" piece of steel rod to roll a radius into the inlet. It actually worked much better than i thought it would. I did leave the screen off though. |
Ha, I didn't reinstall a screen. As mr hannover has stated; It causes oil foaming. I also didn't worry about lapping the oil pump to regain clearance. It works pretty good. The main thing is to get the pump to stop pumping air and pump more oil. This works great :)
Easy in, Easy out |
Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
(Post 8320181)
On the pump, i didn't like the idea of a gasket so i used silk thread and gasket maker. Silk thread is what they use to seal the case halfs on aircraft piston engines, there is no possibility for oil to wick past the silk and the gasket maker is only to hold the thread during assembly...
Sounds pretty killer. Nice mods too - I'm taking notes :) |
Originally Posted by 13B-RX3
(Post 8320181)
I addressed both of those problems but didnt take any pictures.
On the pump, i didn't like the idea of a gasket so i used silk thread and gasket maker. Silk thread is what they use to seal the case halfs on aircraft piston engines, there is no possibility for oil to wick past the silk and the gasket maker is only to hold the thread during assembly. On turbine engine gearboxes (which had vertical seams) we used unwaxed dental floss with 515 Loctite. As for the pickup, i used a piece of 3/4 id tubing and welded it to the factory flange. Then i heated it with a torch and used a 1/2" piece of steel rod to roll a radius into the inlet. It actually worked much better than i thought it would. I did leave the screen off though. I also use a rare-earth magnet pressed into the drain plug. We probably should be using chip-detectors to alert us to debris. You have a nice oil system write-up, Barry |
Thanks Barry. Like i said i can't take credit for all of it but i did put my own twist on things. I am using a magnetic drain plug :).
Classicauto, i don't have any info other than what i stated. They use it on the case halfs, and the oil pump cover. I don't know if just any old silk thread would work but i wouldnt see why not. I used it on many places in my motor and have not had any problems yet. It is a very new engine ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OqpVQN_eJo )so i may have problems down the road. |
Just to update this thread, i have had absolutely no issues with the oiling system yet. It has worked flawlessly including sever 10500RPM pulls on the dyno. Hopefully i will get it on the track soon and we shall see how it really works :icon_tup:
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Nice write-up...
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great info here
have you done any side clearance on the rotors and tips? |
Wouldnt using a thin film of RTV work to seal the pump?
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Originally Posted by fd_neal
(Post 8944184)
Wouldnt using a thin film of RTV work to seal the pump?
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I did not clearance the rotors on this motor.
You could use silicone or hylomar but you would have to be very careful not to put too much on. Just remember, what you see squeeze out on the outside of the pump is probably the same amount as will be on the inside. |
what kind of external oil pressure regulators are available? i cant seem to find anything around
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eBay.
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is there another name for it? i search for oil pressure regulator, but nothing of use
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