New Rywire Single Turbo Harness
 

As some of you guys know...In the past I've worked with Ryan from Rywire to help develop the current Rywire single turbo harness that's available at the moment.

BUT We are actually working on a New Upgraded Harness that will be updated to suite us better. With this....Feel free to voice your suggestions as well as answer the poll questions!!!

What are everyone's Main Complaints? Wishes to include in the Harness?

Where do you guys want the Lead for "Boost" up over exhaust? OR around the passenger side Wheel Well and feeding in from the Fender side of the car along the Strut Tower?

And Go!!!:icon_tup:

Dont forget to Vote for OMP or No OMP in the Harness!!

It just seems like a limiting factor to remove it. Many people like to have the OMP for normal driving, and then add some premix for spirited or track/autocross.

And it is is simple enough to tie the connector somewhere out of sight if an OMP is not installed.

Yea, we were looking at it from a "popular mod" type of deal. But agreed. Note taken!

Any other input?!

Sensor connectors for oil temp, air temp, etc should all be for fast reacting units and come as an option to include those sensors (that fit in OEM locations on both T2 and REW).

Another option should be M2000/M6000 direct wire in with a drop down menu for features you've selected. For us, it's 6 injectors, Direct Fire, etc.

The more Ryan is able to package it for modern electronics, the better the kit will be. I'd be more than happy to supply my car to him as a mockup for a crazy custom 1st Gen with T2 swap. Total cost of engine bay harness, even with those fast reaction sensors ($50 each) should be sub-$1k with M22579/32 or 16.

I would also have six injector plugs. The excessive and elite rotary shop lower intake manifolds seem to be a very popular upgrade these days.

Anyone who needs the aforementioned would be best suited by commissioning LMS-EFI or similar to make a custom harness.

If rywire is looking to bake an off the shelf harness that can be customized when ordered they should be built with plans to terminate connectors after they're ordered. If an option isn't selected just cut the unused wires back leaving enough to attach to if needed, label them, and cap them with a self sealing cap.

The harness should have the IDLE controller connector wired in. Every single Rywire harness I have installed, I've had to manually do it, not sure why anyone would remove that if they are using a plug and play ecu which supports idle control. Other then that option add more injectors on the secondary side. Leave the OMP connector alone, street cars run OMP's, a lot of people simply don't want to premix or have it be mandatory. A separate boost connector on the passenger side wouldn't be terrible but don't forget the RHD's.

thewird

To think that they would be able to supply an ala carte harness WITH sensors for that price is dreaming. The only reason Rywire can even offer their current harness at the price they do is because the standard harnesses are out sourced and built using an assembly line process. They have hundreds built in each run. That's the only way to get their price down where it is. Once you start adding options, that process goes out the window and you're into custom built territory. No way you get what you're asking for under $1k.

Update!!!

So we've got the Following:

- MAT
- up to (6) Injectors
- ECT
- Oil Pressure
- Oil Temp
- Fuel Pressure
- Boost control Lead
- TPS
- Knock Sensor
- (2) CAS
- OMP
- Idle Air Control Valve
- Flex Fuel Sensor
- Fuel Temp Sensor

We're also working on a more convenient layout which is going to be based off of what is most "popular" in terms of Modifications. For instance... TPS/idle air control/knock/oil press/oil temp can all go together in one "bundle" so it'll look a bit more sorted.


Attachment 606150

Attachment 606151

New Style Knock Sensor
Attachment 606152

New Bundle examples
Attachment 606153

Attachment 606154


Here are a few Pics of the new Bundles

feel free to Express your concerns and or questions!!

More Detailed Info:


So we've got the Following:

- MAT Now labeled "AIT".....OEM Location but includes a EV1 Style plug for the Fast reacting Sensor

- up to (6) Injectors...On it's own Branch for neatness. All 4 Lengths will be equal because some people like to put all 4 injectors on a 4 port style LIM like the excessive/elite manifolds or even custom. The 2 additional injectors (5 and 6) Will be in the loom folded back with extra length in case people want them in different configurations.

- ECT Will be in factory Location

- Oil Pressure - Is expected to be pulled from either oe oil pressure port for those no longer using the oem oil pressure guage.. or pulled from the oil filter pedestal

- Oil Temp - Is expected to be pulled from the Oil Filter Pedestal as well

- Fuel Pressure - is expected to be pulled from Fuel Pressure Regulator. Supplied Length will allow for anywhere under the UIM and or Front of the UIM (most popular place to put the fpr)

- Boost control Lead - will stay exactly where it is at under the LIM. But we will also have an additional Lead for those people who want the Boost control solenoid to be mounted on the fire-wall/or on the front of an EFR ETC

- TPS - Stays where it's at

- Knock Sensor Out with the old...expensive...fragile and did I mention EXPENSIVE old knock sensor..and in with the new Bosch Knock Sensor pictured above

- (2) CAS - extended a bit for those wanting different routing and or want to use the harness for a 20B. FFE Hall Sensor Adaptable

- OMP - Included

- Idle Air Control Valve - Added and included

- Flex Fuel Sensor - Continental GM Flex Fuel Sensor Connector added. Placement us under UIM.

- Fuel Temp Sensor - Although this can be pulled from those running the GM Continental Flex Fuel Sensor.... Those without it will have the OEM Fuel Temp Connector. Which uses an OEM Water temp Sensor for convenience. Length can be anywhere under the LIM or fpr with the correct fitting 1/8 NPT (i hope thats right, i'll double check)


Up next is test fit and Loom it.

What about the water level sensor?

you mean the coolant Buzzer?

eh.. i did my own wiring.. kept finding more sensors that would further help do what i want...
beyond those listed..
turbine speed input.
emap x2.
solenoid out for aux ports.
solenoid out for VDI.
water injection solenoid.

Who am I kidding, I'll have you do my harness, Chris!

:bling: :goodrebuild: :bling: :beerchug:

Yes! Lol

Where do you guys get the new connectors at?

Good work! People don't understand how long it takes to build a harness from scratch. You don't necessarily need expensive crimpers... decent ones and the correct ones....absolutely.. But Expensive one's do speed it up.

For someone like you.... We've included extra wires in the loom for additional sensors etc. But at the same time...It's not too difficult to re-pin a connector. You could also use one of the connectors were not using and re-designate it for something else. For instance... I run the Flex Fuel Sensor in my car. It pulls fuel temp from the sensor. Therefore I have the allocated "Fuel Temp Sensor" free of duty. So If I wanted to use it for my EFR Shaft Speed Sensor... it wouldn't be very hard to pull the pins...extend it to desired length and make that work. :icon_tup:

There are also some Neat features on this harness that I'll keep quiet till the prototype is loomed:icon_tup:

Coolant Buzzer is gone!

Small Update:

Test Fitted the 99% Completed Harness and made final adjustments:

Attachment 606018

What happens from here?

We make the adjustments and finalize the sample! And soon enough the Harness will be Available!


Started a New Thread for a Plug and Play Direct Fire Ignition Harness To be used with this single turbo Harness.

It's Located here!
https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...s-pnp-1109097/

I worked recently with a custom wiring harness we ordered around 2 years ago and must say it is a hell of a deal for what we paid and what you get.

I had ordered separate ground/power loops for coils and rest. on top of that I had some extra wires for sensors and water injection.

the only consideration I have now is if the ground point on the engine is really required? Because I had ground of all actuators and sensor and separately from could to a spare plug in the ECU area. I ran a thick ground cable from the trunk mounted battery to the ecu area.

this way this ground remained unaffected by ground potential shift at the engine block because of alternator loading or cranking for example. also the ground from the coil secondary winding (IGN-1A) is directly on the rotor housing. this also prevents any possible interference caused by this.

for the rest I could not think of any other reason/advantage of having sensor ground loop grounded to the engine block. all sensors used are 2 or 3 wire, so none do care about engine block ground potential.

wait, im a bit confused with the no coolant buzzer?? can someone school me on the reason to delete that feature?? i thought that was a must for a daily/weekend warrior.

what exactly is gone for the new harness compared to the old harness??

i'm looking at this from a standpoint of someone that was completely stock transitioning to single turbo. I purchased 80% that is needed to go single; the 20% that is left is the engine harness (old one was to crispy), ECU (Adaptronic), and Fuel Injectors (ID 850/2000) and a few lil pieces here and there.

thank you for your time.

:icon_tup: You get what you pay for.

Also, please fix the shielding issues and poor crimps. I've had way too many cars where I lost trigger signal, the tack didn't work properly, or a pin was loose.. I personally don't sell Rywire but this would be beneficial to my customers that purchase them on their own.

You just need to run one wire from the ground sensor on the filler neck to the connector on the alternator harness. The old Ryewire harness never had it as part of the main harness either but they provided a separate wire for those that wanted to hook it up. I agree this should be continued to be offered as street cars most people aren't checking their coolant levels or for leaks every time they drive there car like a person with a highly modded car that goes to the track etc.

thewird