Color single diagram finished!
 

Was trying to find a hose diagram for the single, and i found an uncolored/ unfinished one. So i decided to complete it with my bad ass photoshop skills (which are bad)

Enjoy!

http://img65.photobucket.com/albums/...nglevachos.jpg

Please let me know if i screwed anything up and i will fix it.

(i am not responsible for your car) <--- disclaimer

What is the point of the yellow hose, I am in the middle of doing my single conversion now, and I just capped it off at the lim, what is that there for?

the yellow hose has somethign to do with the omp (or so i am told)

thank you very much for doing this. i've had my single for 7 months, and the shop left all the rats nest in there. it bugs me to death and haven't had the time to drive it, let alone get rid of the extra shit it doesn't need. this will help tremendously.
thanks again mike.

You can eliminate the purple hoses also they aren't needed.

I am in the process of redoing all this also. I have eliminated all the solenoids and redid my wiring harness by eliminating all the uneeded clips. I personally have mine setup exactly like your diagram except I have eliminated the PCV valve as it is not necessary as long as you have the orange line hooked up. I would rather have the orange line instead of a pcv failure.

The yellow line puts air into the engine via the center housing. I have mine apart and I believe the air goes into the combustion chamber. I will check tomorrow and post back. I am keeping mine hooked up. I am also keeping the oil injector vacuum lines hooked up like stock by connecting them to the intake plumbing.

Mike

unless you cap the oil injector plugs you will have a vacuum leak with those lines open....

^:confused:
well if they go to any part of the intake tract before the throttle plate also ther would still be a leak. I thought however that they were one way valves.

Bob

you mean you capped where the pcv line comes from, right?
Cause otherwise there would be a huge boost and vacuum leak.

Bob

Not true.

The injectors are above the OMP and once the engine (and therefore OMP) is switched off the oil will siphon back down the OMP lines and into the pump. Then at the next engine start the OMP would have to prime the lines again before ever getting oil into the engine, thus starving it of OMP oil at startup.

That valve in the injector is like putting your finger over the tip of a straw. If you dip a straw into a glass of water the straw fills with water but runs out as soon as you lift it from the glass. If you put the straw into the water and then put your finger over the end you can then pull the straw out and hold the water in. That's exactly what the little valve on top of the OMP injector does; once vac is gone the diaphram closes across the top and holds the oil in the OMP lines so it can't drain back.

The OMP injectors would still function normally with the engine running without vac present on the valve, but the oil would siphon after shutdown. This means at startup the engine seals get no lubrication as the OMP has to prime the lines again.

Damon, am i not getting this? the lines on top of the oil injectors normally go open air at atmospheric pressure.....so why couldn't you just remove the lines?
Sorry, the analogie lost me, it sounded more like it would be better to cap the injectors off than have the lines there.

Or maybe you could explain it to me when you are up in philly.:D

SO any more insight on the yellow line, keep it to the turbo pipe or cap it off?

yes, I capped it at the UIM and at the Oil filler neck. The 94 and 95's do not even use the PCV as I understand. The factory eliminated it. I just did the same

mike

as my british friend would say, 6 of 1, 3+3 of the other. Damn brits.... There doesn't seem to be a best way. If you cap it you will run a little richer, and have to tune accordingly. If you keep it connected you will get more air to the combustion chambers and have to tune accordingly. I am still unsure of the exact reason Mazda put this thing here.

Mike

Mazda....go figure.

I thought the saying was 6, one half dozen, or the other. Sorry for straying way out in left field:D

Bob

Very true, not trying to sound like a ass but I know what they do and how they work, and I have been running this way for years, no problems, especially once you run premix they are pointless. Not saying your wrong just saying I've seen no ill effects on any of the motors I've run that way, so if you want to eliminate them you can.

You don't need the to run the blue line. You can vent the charcoal can and remove the solonoid and catch tank. The same goes for the pretty aqua marine green line you got there. Cap it off as well.

Thats the aqual marine line to the purge control valve, not the wastegate line /LOL.
The red dots you have on the LIM there also do not need caps, they can vent open air.

We say "6 of one, half dozen of the other. My Jordie friend, who we affectionately call limey Dave, says "6 of one, two 3's of the other" to be exact.

and now back to the local programing....

DONT CAP THOSE NIPPLES!!!!!
Those vacuum lines are to vent air from the oil injectors.
The oil injectors have a 1-way check valve built into them and the only purpose for the vacuum lines running back into the intake pipe is for emissions and so you dont hear them venting air. If you cap them they wont work like there supposed to.
Just run the vacuum line to the back of the motor and let it vent to the atmosphere.

The OMP injectors dont use a vacuum. The vacuum lines running to the intake are for venting purposes and emissions only. There is a 1-way check valve built into those injectors allowing air OUT and not in, so there is no possible way for them to use vacuum. The oil is brought up those lines via the "oil metering pump" thats why it is called a pump.

For those that questioned: The yellow line that comes from the lower manifold is used in the factory Injector application to pressurize the factory injector o-rings when the car comes into boost. if you have replaced the factory injectors with diff aftermarket oned then u have no use for it and u may block this off. U dont want this hose braking under boost. this can cause severe damage

I'm looking around my injector ports on the FC as I have everything disassembled for rebuild.

Fuel injectors? I lack venting of the fuel injector o-ring area to any air pressure lines, it's merely a clean bore of aluminum in which the seals press; one end with fuel, the other end with intake runner. My shop manual does not document any ducting specifically for o-ring pressurization.

I've not read of how this boost pumbing would leak past an o-ring and affect idle or cause leaning during boost. Anyone know of this?

Ok, I looked at a 3rd gen engine that is apart at Maztech. On the LIM there is a hole that exits the manifold just above the primary intake ports. This hole is fed air via the nipple with the yellow line as stated. This hole, lines up with a slot on the center housing just above the two intake ports. This slot has two small holes that pass through into the injector seat/ oring area. One hole for each injector. They do not go into the engine as I previously thought. They are as decribed in the quote above. I would like to know in more detail, how it works.

By the way, I also looked at a center housing from a different year/model, and it had these two holes also. I assume it was a 2nd gen turbo motor but I am not sure. Jeff was busy and I was not able to find out. Many people just cap this line yet have the stock primaries:confused: I believe this is from lack of understanding its exact function. If we don't know what it does, then we don't need it. Just cap it is what i always get for a response. Mazda put it on multiple years so it is not unique to the 3rd gens' over needed systems and must be important. I have kept mine functional but the majority of people I have asked are always unsure what it does and just say cap it.

Mike

bump

Pic up top is not coming up for me? ANyone else having this problem?

I vent my purple to open air, capped the yellow, ditched the charcoal can a long time ago, so no line is needed.
Lastly, I ditched my oil PCV and other line in favor of a neg pressure greddy oil catch can. This line goes from the oil neck to the intake side of the turbo creating constant vac.

I think you're incorrect. I learned the hard way that it is a one way valve IN. Awhile back I had one fail, allowing air/fluid to flow OUT, and it blew the vacuum line off the nozzle and created a nice oil pond in the space between the LIM and the engine block in short order. If you don't believe me I have a spare valve sitting around that you are welcome to try to suck and blow air through;)

I personally believe the valve is used to prevent the motor from sucking too much oil in under vacuum. All the shops I have talked to have confirmed this. Damon believes it is used to prevent oil starvation at startup. This may also be true, but KD Rotary often plugs the air vents when doing single turbo installs. Dave is a Mazda trained mechanic. I find it hard to believe Dave would do this if Damon is correct.

Whatever the case, it seems worthwhile to keep the nipples on top of the valve open. If you decide to do so make sure they get a filtered air source because they will draw air directly into the combustion chamber. I was thinking of putting two small filters on top of mine-like what is used for the solenoids.

I had my omp injectors out a week ago... i was able to blow through each side, no check valves that i could find.. Maybe mine are fubar'd though..

(i dont give a shit either way cause i run haltech)

Again, is this pic working for anyone else? The one on the first page.. Mike

works for me :confused:

anyone want to take a stab at this.

Mike

pic works for me too

The vacuum line going to the primary injector seat is to help fuel atomization at low load. You get a differential pressure, and it helps with atomization.

The '87-88 turbo 2nd gens only had it for the primary injectors, and the '89-91 turbo 2nd gens had it for both primary and secondary. I've never looked at the 3rd gens, though - obviously they have it on the primary, not sure about secondaries.

Regardless, it's a Good Thing. Keep it.

Dale

So you can vent the charcoal canister and totally eliminate the blue vacuum line in the diagram? And if you are going to run premix you can just plug the nipples on top of the oil injectors..correct? Gonna be doing the single install soon any help would be great. Thanks..Tony

If your running haltech though, you will not need these lines correct? Because you won't be useing the omp or oil injectures.
correct me if I'm wrong.

There are 2 lines for PCV. One has the valve from oil filler to manifold and the other goes to intake side of turbo. You MUST keep one of them or you will be throwing "James bond smoke screens" where ever you go as well as possibly damaging your oil seals in your turbo and spraying oil into your engine bay through your blow-off valve.

It is not always possible to hook into intake side of turbo so you will have to keep the PCV valve if you cant.

Oh and I know this from experience so pay attention!

Oh and by the way I did the following on my setup.

Capped the yellow line at the LIM.

Capped the orange line at the metal line near the front of the secondary fuel line.

Removed the purge control, and catch tank and vented charcoal to atmosphere.

Pulled my FPR line from the back of the UIM near the MAP sensor.

Ran the purple lines to a filter then to atmosphere.

Oh and of course I dont have caps on the lines that go through the LIM.

Also it was my uncolored/unfinished drawing you started with and I am glad someone has taken this further than I did - unfortunately I dont have the time I used to when I started it.

Oh and you need the change "their" to "there" on your drawing. And there really is no debate - you need one or the other of the orange or aqua-marine.

I ran this line and changed from 850cc to 550cc's, car seems much smoother and can hold a lower idle. thought I'd share since people were up in the air what to do with it.

Also I ran the purge system just like stock with out the solenoid (Haltech) and all seems to be well, no gas smell with a full tank.

He's correct. I've ran with and with out it on a FC and it leans out the idle compared to the capped version.

This is the same as the omp. That's why the vac is there to help atomize the oil. While your doing this make sure the check valve works otherwise you lose compression :)

I'm not sure I understand what you are talking about?!?

no check valves involved...well, only on the purge system to prevent my gas tank from filling with boosted air :EEK: nothing to do with compression

Vac to help atomize oil? with what air? ummm, I definitely don't understand that statement.

how would atomizing air/fuel lean out your idle? if anything you'd get a better burn of the mixture, smoothing out your idle.

the omp nozzels don't see vaccum. It allows air and oil to get sucked into the combustion chamber.

draining your oil with the oil filler cap on takes longer (not ours since it has holes).......... same deal......... revmove the cap and your oil flows better...... (air displacing used oil).

That's the easiest way i could think of but not a perfect model of the omp system............

for the idle it will due to the computer using less fuel do to a more complete "burn" or combustion stroke since it's atomized better.

oh and the check valve is built into the injectors.

the fsm will give you the low down.

Actually the oil metering pump is not appropriately named since it isn't a pump at all. It is an oil metering valve. There is a rotating valve inside it that opens based on ecu signals sent according to what rpm and load the engine is at. The old mechanical pumps just used a rod to open them based on throttle position. The oil itself is pushed through the lines with pressure from the same oil pump that sends oil through the engine.

So much confusion! My head is spinning! :D Where's a good place to get the line fittings to weld into the intake/IC piping?

I agree completely. I pulled an FD OMP apart and studied it. I came to the conclusion that the reason the pump is driven by the engine is that it distributes oil to each nozzle at the required time in much the same way as a distributor routes spark to the correct HT lead. It isn't a pump at all and relies on oil pressure. This made me wonder about the kits that replace the pressurized engine oil with a non-pressureized resovoir of two-stroke oil. If the OMP works like I think it does then no oil would be injected.

IC piping would be bad for omp

if there is a flat section you could use the brass hardware fittings found in lowes/home depo and just tap the fitting in. Not sure how brass/alum welds together but if it can be done i would go that route.

the electronic omp's use a stepping motor and do no pumping like previously mentioned.

It does not rely on oil pressure. If you trace it back on the front cover it is fed by an oil return line.

therefore the non-pressureized systems will work fine.

The oil is pulled up by the intake stroke of the engine.

I think we're way off topic here :)

So do we leave the LIM extra nipples vented or should we cap them?
The fuel rail (Purple) and OMP (Yellow) lines can just be vented to air, but should have some kind of filter, correct? Any benefit to running them before the turbo on the intake side as just opposed to using a crank case filter?
The Aqua/Orange (Oil filler neck) can be eliminated with one single line to a vented catch can? Correct?
The blue one can be eliminated with the charcoal canister all together.

dont' need caps on the lim

your colors ares witched.

The purple are the omp nozzles

the FPR is the green

the primary injector air bleeder is the yellow

if you use a catch can you can take out aqua/orange.

i don't run the blue even on my stock twins (yes on removed charcoal).

Okay, so the OMP/FI doesn't matter as longs as it's vented?