Anyone running a GT4094r??
 

Hey guys,

I am about ready to purchase a single turbo kit and had the GT4094r as the one I was going to get. I called up RX7 store and he told me that the 4094 is too big for my horsepower goal. I was looking to make a solid 450hp @ 15psi, but my overall goal is 500-550hp. He told me about the t04z but based on average numbers on the forum its not a solid 450 @ 15psi you would have to run at least 20psi?? Now, would the GT4094r truly be too big? It is really that laggy that it won't be fun on the street?? I have a pineapple racing medium street port and was thinking of a .95a/r for the GT4094r housing. I will be running pump gas and will have water injection and all that stuff. Any help would be appreciated! P.S. I live in Colorado where the air is a lot thinner here if that makes a difference. Thanks

get the 4094r. You will be fine. .95 is also ok.

Solid 450 at 15 psi it get a Gtx4294r

I would go with the GT over the To4Z, higher nickel content turbine housing, and cheaper to replace chra if you blow it. Performance should be similar between the two, maybe a tick slower on the GT as its a big shaft turbo( more durable however) If price isn't an issue then definitely GT. We have the GTX4202/4294R in stock too...

Thanks for the posts guys. But the gtx4202/4294r is out of the question way too much money. Would like to hear more from guys that do have the 4094r in their setups and their experiences.

Look at your post and your power goals the gt4094r will not reach that power at that boost

I agree, if you want 500-550 (@ 15psi) you need to go LARGER! Unless you mean you want 450 @15psi but will turn the boost up for 550 then it will be fine. I run this turbo so I am not just guessing.

Yes you are correct sk8world. I was looking at a minimum of 450 @ 15psi. I will turn up the boost to reach 500-550. Thanks for the help. I placed an order for a gt4094r this morning! Thanks everyone

Goodluck I don't think it will do it i hope it does for your own sake

Honestly I never made a full pull on the dyno below 18-20psi. As we were having such bad boost creap. I will go back and get a chart to post. I was thinking it made around 450 at gate psi (15) but started to creep bad. But I do know 550 isnt an issue!


Dyno video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLftxux7FIE

Erection!

That's fine, I got the biggest turbo I could afford. I just didn't want to have to turn a turbo up to 30psi to get over 500hp. Thanks everyone.

Hey mate not trying to be negative over 500 up is achievable on 22-23psi easily just don't want you to get the wrong idea don't forget a good exhaust manifold means everything use a shit one and you won't make any power at all

do you have any numbers yet from your upgrade?

No RX7store is out of all housings for the 4094r. Been waiting a few months for it lol. I'm going to get a refund and go with either a 7168 or 7175 billet precision ball bearing instead.....

Check with ATP turbo if you still want the 4094r or Sean with aspec.

Wao I have no idea why people are saying that the turbo will not make the HP goals you have. I have a GT4088R and made an easy 447 @ 15. I didnt tune past 15 I didnt get the watermeth in time for the tune. Tuner Said that we will go up by 20hp per pound. All im saying is if he has a good setup and the pineapple ports are good he should be fine. And ATP is a great Garret distributer.

I get the 4094 thru ATP as do most companies and they are out of them :)

You can't beat the rx7store price for the 4094 kits

kit maybe but i have yet to see anyone selling the turbo for 1600-1650 like some places

SO shifting gears from gt4094 to 6768 precision billet bb.... I have two options for a divided housing an .81 or 1.00. This car will be for street with highway pulls. If I had to choose between faster spool or top end I would choose faster spool. The thing that is confusing me is that I am 4000+ in elevation, so if at sea level I would choose the .81 but since Im higher in elevation should I go bigger housing??? Thanks guys

i wouldnt get the .81 if it were me. you will hold back that turbo in the end. if you want the best boost responce the 6765 with a 1.00 is very good. but for overall power the 6768 in a 1.00 or the 4094r in a .95 or higher. all of these turbos will hit 440-450whp at 15 psi. its when you get past 25psi where the 6768 and 4094 will walk away from the 6765.

I just ordered a 4094r BB locally for under $1500. Looking forward to see what this can do with my setup. This thread and a few others here helped a lot!!

update yet?

i guess comparing our dyno numbers with yours is not really proper.

Alright guys a little bit of an update. So it turns out that precision doesn't make divided housings for the 6768, so I decided to go with a bb 6765 with a divided 1.00 housing. The motor was buttoned up and installed couple weeks ago. Close fit, but it looks great! Have everything sealed up and ready to rock.... except for the intercooler pipes. I am having a hard time finding anyone local that can bend aluminum pipe so I can connect up the intercooler. I was planning on starting up the engine for the first time without them. A friend of mine says that I will blow the turbo seals if I don't have the intercooler connected up. Is this true?? I just wanted to let it idle and heat up so I can remove the air bubbles out of the cooling system and other things, I wasn't going to rev it or boost the turbo. Any thoughts? Comments on this?

I bet your friend also replaces muffler bearings.

He's full of it. I ran mine many times without the IC pipes to set idle and check all basics (oil press, temp, etc) and it did nothing to the turbo. Fire it up and do what you gotta do. I'll post up a pic of my gt4094r when it comes in this friday. I should have the old T78 out and the new gt installed and tuned up by mid july. Car is currently getting a ford 8.8 diff swap done.

That's what I thought too. Didn't make sense to me why I couldn't start it without the intercooler hooked up. Its just going to run on vacuum, till it reaches operating temp. I wanted to triple check cause I certainly don't have the money to replace the turbo....

Well today was the day we finally found out how good of job I rebuilt my motor..... After having to floor the pedal to get it to start, and making minor adjustments for the Power FC to maintain idle it ran better than I was hoping for. But then we noticed a HUGE oil leak from the drivers side of the car. It basically dumped my whole pan of oil on the ground... We believe it is leaking between the front iron and first rotor housing and quite possibly the front cover?? The car did smoke after first start up to burn off all the assembly lubes and crap but after it ran for awhile there was no smoking at all. So I don't believe it is the oil control rings. Anybody have any sense to why this happened?? I rtv'ed the front cover gasket and gave it more than enough time to set?

So what lasted for maybe 15min of fame, ended up in a disaster and now I get to pull the motor back out and tear it apart yet again!

check the 2 oil cooler lines in the front.

That is one of the first things I checked the oil cooler lines are not leaking at all. It is definitely leaking badly between the front iron and front rotor housing about an inch above where the oil pan and block meet. A theory of mine is I didn't vent the oil pan and the oil was so pressurized it had no where to go. Could this be the problem even though it was just idling and not revving or boosting??

Ouch! Good luck.

Only thing i could imagine would cause that are warped irons or housings. At idle i dont think there's that much pressure to cause that....at least its never happened to me. Then again, with rotaries anything is possible.

I'm going to check within the next few days and make damn sure that's where the source of the leak is. It doesn't make sense to me either, and it wasn't just a trickle little leak, it was pouring out?? Unfortunately I think you are right rotorican85, it is probably a warped iron or housing. When I checked clearances they checked out fine and within spec?? I made sure the tension bolts were torqued correctly and in the proper sequence?......

I hope you get this sorted out!
Been there many times myself tracking down something that just doesnt make any logical sense when it comes to these fun motors!!

Check the banjo fittings. When I rebuilt my black RHD, I hadn't tightened the banjo fitting fully and it leaked.

thewird

Ok so it is definitely leaking between the front cover and front iron, and also the front iron and front rotor housing about 1 inch up from where the oil pan and block meet. I vented the crankcase at the filler neck just to see if that was the problem. Also I noticed the oil pressure on the stock gauge reads at idle between the 60-120 mark and when I rev it a little it goes up to 120? I put 20w-50 in it, so pressure would be a little higher but that seems ridiculously high?? I will do a test to make sure the gauge isn't going wacky. I am so stumped..... Guess I will have to pull it and take it apart

When the oil is cold, the oil pressure will be much higher then normal.

thewird

Sounds like you didn't silicon the legs on the front plate and housing. If you got sidetracked during assembly, this can easily be over looked. You need to pull it apart. Is your oil gauge bouncing? If so, you need a new oil pressure regulator. They go bad often!

I am 99% sure we siliconed all the legs. I was just trying to see if it was something I can fix without tearing it apart again but I am convinced that there is no other solution but that. The front regulator was tested before re-installing and passed all specs but will replace it so I don't have to pull the engine for the third time, in case it all of a sudden went bad.

Just thought I would throw in some photos to make this thread interesting while I figure out my oil problem. These photos were taken about 15min before her first startup since the rebuild! Too bad didn't last very long......

Thats a good looking fd at least!!

That's one he'll of a battery!

Stupid auto spell ^^^^ hahahha

Yeah I work at Advance Auto so I got a discount for that battery. I might switch to a 51r after my car is running cherry again.....

Thanks Rotorican85, I hope someday it will run as good as it looks lol....

Is it normal on first startup with a brand new pfc computer to have to floor the pedal to get it to start? It seems it starts up quicker after the first time but still have to floor it to get it going? I made sure the fpr was reading 40psi without vacuum and checked for leaks?

If you removed the thermowax (cold start) yes. Otherwise no.

thewird

Well..... tore the engine apart and nothing seemed out of the ordinary as far as where it was leaking. All legs had evidence of rtv.... Although the front rotor, facing the front iron had quite a bit of oil on the iron face? But how could that oil travel from the face of the iron and leak about an inch up from the oil pan?? Also the front rotor housing doesn't look normal, definitely something went wrong there? The picture is before cleaning, I hope it isn't destroyed.....?

twisted/missing/broken oil control ring

Update:

Looked more closely at parts and beside the rotor housing having evidence of oil, both rear and front stationary gear o-rings were severely pinched. And one apex seal spring on the front rotor snapped, it was still intact but it broke in one place.

As for the oil control rings... everything looks fine all o-rings were smooth no pinching or twisting, the springs were in their tabs as well as the viton rings.....

As mentioned before all housing legs had rtv, even where it was leaking from.

The front rotor housing cleaned up ok and was just carbon, no severe scraping apparent and all rotor faces are fine with just carbon build up.....

In the end idk what happened that would cause the leak where it was... or why the s.g. o-rings pinched..... Can anyone enlighten??

front stationary gear o-ring? maybe im reading it wrong you mean the main seals

also how was the endplay clearance?