RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

I have an 1984 GSL-SE that is all original. I will be keeping all the emissions, factory air, etc. I plan to use it for autocross now and again but it will be my DD.

I'm looking at getting the ReSpeed coil over setup in the near future. I'm having trouble deciding which coil over setup to go with.

I do have a set of front hubs out of an 84-85 GS or GSL and from what I understand they are the same as the GSL-SE hubs. So I use those for the race setup if I went that route. Also I'm not sure about spring rates. I don't want a real rough riding car.

I was thinking about using TOKICO Illuminas in the front and TOKICO Blues in the rear. I didn't want to cut holes in the rear panels so I could access the adjustment ****.

1. What are the advantages and disadvantages of the ReSpeed street vs. race coil overs?
2. Will the ReSpeed Strut Tower With Firewall Brace clear the GSL-SE intake, etc?
3. Does the ReSpeed Strut Tower With Firewall Brace require drilling any holes?
4. Does the ReSpeed Camber Plate Kit require any cutting or drilling to work?
5. Is the Mazdatrix Watts Link Bracket Reinforcement a worthwhile investment?
6. Should I go with the TOKICO Blues in the rear or should I go with the TOKICO Illuminas and set the stiffness once?
7. What spring stiffness front and rear should I go with since I'm keeping the A/C, emissions, etc?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

what r u referring to as the hub? if u mean the rotor, the lug pattern is different between the gslse and non gslse.

RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

I mean the actual hub that the rotor and caliper bracket mounts to and the strut cartrage goes in.

rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

I will answer the questions that I know.

1. The race coil overs allow a wider range of adjustments but require modification to the struts to install (removal of the stock spring seat), the street coilovers install w/o modifying the strut. I would recommend the street set.

2. Don't know

3. No

4. No

5. Don't know, will depend on things such as driving style, tires ( racing slicks or street tires) etc

6. I would go with the Illuminas.

7. Ask Billy, You will find him very helpfull and willing to give very good advice.

RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

Thanks, that is a big help.

Kentetsu

Just ask Billy. His username on this forum is Bwaits_ and he is extremely knowledgeable and helpful.

When I outgrew my racing beat equipment, I told Billy I wanted a car that could eat Miatas for breakfast on the weekends, and still be driven to work every day. He nailed it, and I am extremely happy with the results. Miatas, Porsches, and a lot of other cars I have no business beating have all felt the wrath of my whopping 1100 CCs of raw power.

And it is comfortable enough that I drive down to North Carolina every spring for the big rotary meet.

I would recommend the race version of the coilovers. Slightly more work to install, but worth it in the long run.

I would also say go with the Illuminas in the rear. You can pull a few screws from the plastic covers to access them, which isn't too difficult. Set them soft for daily driving, hard for the races. Well worth the effort.

Overall, the choice to go with the Illuminas is what will make all the difference. On their softest setting, they are very comfortable even with the stiffer than stock springs. Crank them up to the higher settings, and you will definitely feel the difference. There is no question that the difference between settings makes a big difference.

I run what some consider softer spring rates, and make up for it with heavy swaybars. This gives a comfortable ride, great traction, and no body roll. 275 front/150 rear. Respeed front bar is tubular, very stiff, and about 1/4 the weight of the RB bar.

The camber plates are bolt in, but make sure that you get the right front strut when you order due to different sizing on the shaft. Get the race version of the Illuminas for the front, and they will fit right into the camber plates without modification.

The triangulated strut brace will put you into a monster class if you intend to autocross. Go with the one that does not connect to the firewall if you have a desire to win, ever, in your lifetime. The rest of these modifications will put you into CSP, with the Miatas, which are tough competitors but can be beaten.

Good luck with your upgrades.




.

RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

Thanks. I Pm'd Billy but didn't get a reply.

My plan as of now:
-Race coilovers
-Illuminas all the way around
-camber plates
-strut brace without firewall connection
-ReSpeed front sway bar

My other questions have to do with rear sway bars. I hear so many different combinations. Some run without a rear sway, some run the stock rear with ReSpeed front, some run an adjustable rear. Than you have more than one adjustable rear, RB or ST. Since I will be running the ReSpeed front sway I figured I would either stick with the stock sway with new bushings or adjustable.

1. Is it best to keep the stock sway and just replace the bushings or go with an adjustable?
2. If I went with an adjustable, which one would be the best?
3. How should I set up the above adjustable sway?

One other question: What is a good ride height for these cars? I had 3/4" drop springs on my other car and I want to go a little lower than that but I don't want to go so low that it messes with the geometry. I figure I will have to mess with this on the track but what is a good starting point for street/track?

Kentetsu

I run an adjustable rear bar, on the stiffest setting. Bought it used, so I'm not sure of the manufacturer. I have heard that the RB rear bar is damned near impossible to adjust, so stick with the type that has multiple end link mounting points rather than a sliding adjuster.

Adjustment of the front bar is simple, and well detailed in the instructions that come with it. The adjustment is to eliminate any preload in the bar.

As far as ride height goes, tough call. I run extremely low and I'm very happy with it. I doubt I could go any lower and still keep it streetable. If I run over a rabbit, there's a damned good chance I'll take it all the way home with me.

However, if you want to run that low in the rear then you'll need a shorter rear shock. Otherwise, you will sit on the fully "bottomed out" shock, leaving slack in the springs which causes them to rattle around.

RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

I'm probably not going to go as low as you. The ST rear bar seems like the way to go than.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/h4579-85.htm

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

1,2,and 3. there is no best. suspension setup depends on grip, as its the body mass/grip that provides the force that the suspension is acting against.

since the rear bar is very easy to remove, i suggest you try with the bar, and without the bar, and then see what YOU think. in my experience the rear bar really helps with turn in response, so its more of a drivers preference than actual traction.

spring rates a little like this too. mine is 350/175 and its actually not bad, however if i was going to build another car to DD i'd go with maybe 275/150...

ride height is hard to say, its probably better to start higher, as hitting the bump stops is worse than being too high. also the geometry is better. although since you're making it adjustable, you should try it...

shocks, Id get the race illumina's. play with the *****, and then put the rear panels back. my experience has been once you get those in the happy place, they don't really need to be touched. i think i had it on 2 for the 150 springs, and 3 seems good @175...

RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

Thanks all.

On my '83, I ran with no rear bar and liked it. This car feels like a completely different car. I'm really liking the small suspension changes they made to the SE. The SE doesn't feel as light in the rear. I will probably save the rear sway for last and maybe just replace the mounts for right now.

I have a few more motor related things to do before I start this. I need to put about $400 into the motor to make it a good DD. Than another $450 on exhaust and I'm ready to put money into the suspension. I will start this next summer.

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

Sorry for the delay in response. I just responded to your PM.

Let me know the answers to the question in the PM and we can work up starting spring rates.

Thanks,
-billy

RX-7 Chris

iTrader: (19)

Thanks Billy

RiderX

iTrader: (1)

hey guys,

is there a chance we can continue the discussion on the board? I'm trying to figure out almost the same stuff that Chris is and I think the convo could be very usefull to me and others...

on a side note, oddly enough, my name is also chris... and i was in COS when this convo was taking place...

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

how are you going to use the car? happily the SA/FB likes softer springs, which makes it streetable even in race trim.

unlike say our race integra, 1200lbs springs = takeoff.

RiderX

iTrader: (1)

Its and autocross only; csp, so barely lighter than stock if any...

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you going to do the 3 link rear or panhard?

RiderX

iTrader: (1)

original watts link, removed the rear sway bar, RB front sway bar (didn't know about re-speed at the time) thats about it suspension wise....

RiderX

iTrader: (1)

I honestly don't know enough about the others to convert... I understand the 3 link, but don't really know what the panhard is... guidance in this realm would also be appreciated

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you need camber plates. which kind of come with front coil overs, the starter spring rate forever was 350 front/ 175 rear, kenetsu's 275/150 setup is popular now, it should be a little softer, which is probably more street, the 350/175 is still ok....

these days rear height adjusters like Respeed sells are cool too.

i looked into shocks, and bought the BZ1086 front illumina and rx7 rear. there are other options, but price goes way up for the koni/bilsteins

that should be a really nice starter... basically what everyone ran back in the 90's

the panhard/ 3rd link see www.gforce.net

these make the rear WAY WAY better, however making the rear better adds a little understeer, so it'll need different springs...