Like it says the car dies at 1500rpms. I have a video of what it does.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_buLz2LllOo


Then after I start let it run for about 1-2 mins then shut it off. I try to re start it and this is what it does.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYLYrMUtOqU

I was told the first video might be vac leak. The second im thinking hot start or some sort of flooding. Also I smelled burning something, It might be the excess fuel/oil/ carbon build up form all the non starts it had, in the exhaust area.

 

bump

 

bump

 

What is it set to idle at?

 

1200-1500, I was able to get it to 1000 once

 

Also my T2 and L2 spark plugs look new the T1 has a small bit of wear but L2 looks new out of the box.

 

It sounds like a Mass air flow sensor but im not sure, kind of new to rotary

 

Why is the buzzer on?

 

coolant

 

check for vac leaks also unplug ur AFM n try from there if its better then that was the problem

 

When my coolant buzzer came on while I was doing a flush the car died a few seconds after it came on. I wouldn't run the car with the coolant buzzer going off unless you know for sure you have a short in the buzzer. Replace the coolant, and do you have the cold start up assist 'thingy' (pardon the technical term). It would be passenger side, and right up to the fire wall in the far passenger side corner in the engine bay. There was a recall/Service bulletin to have those removed. I wonder if the dealers will still do that for free...

 

I know theres a leak in my BAC, I have a block off plate for it. I just have to figure out how to get the broken bolt out. As for coolant buzzer. I know why its going off, I have a leak in a hose or i need to re adjust the hose. I just been filling it with water untill I get the start issue figured out, then I can move on to the small stuff. I still have the Cold Start assist attached and it still works. I never had it removed because it was never causing me issues. "If it ain't broke don't fix it" Does it hinder or harm the car in any way? If i try and unplug my MAF I know from before my car wont start or it will start then bog out.

Now my only worry is my T2 and L2 Spark Plugs that look pretty much brand new. I'm about to get some coil packs off here to see if thats the issue. If any one has any insight on that please input. I've searched on here but I haven't really found anything that matched.

 

make sure you did a deflood procedure cause it sounds like your back rotor is flooded and not making compression. when i first got my car mine did that and the front rotor would make compression but the back rotor just free spun until i did the deflood procedure.

 

Ya I drained my car of all its oil. I let an oil pan sit there for like 3 days it got all the oil. The oil was like water and smelled of gas. You couldn't even smell oil. So i think that was a MAIN issue on why it was having issues starting. So I dont think theres any fuel left in the engine. Ill run the deflood method tho. That makes me feel alot better.

 

after watching the second video i would say the compression does sound ok but you need to start checking your injectors and clips, i suspect you have a faulty primary injector clip as it sounds like its building compression fine but only trying to fire off one rotor due to lack of fuel.

 

I did have a bad primary clip but I cut the clip out and solder on another good clip. I'll look into it more. But I know for a FACT It was HEAVILY FLOODED and had a HUGE VAC leak

 

Im with Karack on this. The way the first video shuts off sounds like it starved off of fuel. 2nd video sounds like flooding.

 

it's quite simply running on one rotor, with the clean plug side of the engine look at your primary injector and injector clip on that bank and i bet you find your issue.

 

How would I use a mutli meter to test the injector? Is there a post on how to do it? Also I'll go pick up some cleaner for the clip or see if i have some and go spray it in there.

Now i know both my clips clip into the injector... but i have to see if the boot is torn because the metal connectors in clips might be coming out. What should I be looking for exactly. This is really my first in depth look at this car.


Thank you all for your help so far tho. This has been a long long and big headache of mine that I just wanna see on the road again

 

Karack you were right I think. I disconnected the CAS. took off my UIM, stuck my primary injectors, in a cup. Had my dad crank the engine and nothing. So I hooked up my spare ECU. 1 injectors had a small stream of gas, the other didnt spray. I know its not my injectors since they were cleaned and flow tested a few weeks ago, like i have stated before. And its not my ECU since it did the same thing pretty much on both ECU's. So its either the harness or the resistor pack. How would I make a pulse light to check to see if the injectors are getting signal?

 

The smallest plug connected to the ECU has a wire running to each of the injectors. Each of these wires should have 12 volts w/key to on. This voltage comes from the injector plug. If the injector plug is not receiving voltage or the injector plug is not sufficiently connected to the injector there will be no voltage on the wires running to the ECU.

 

yeah this will tell you if the circuits and injectors are all ok, if they are then i would suggest swapping the primary and secondary injectors and retest. just because they were serviced doesn't mean something didn't go wrong along the way.

also keep in mind the ground strap for the rear rotor housing on the engine harness is what provides the ECU the ground to trigger the injectors, this one is vital.

 

where is that ground? because I do have a ground wire that has broke off from something. and its near the back

 

On top of the upper manifold near the back of the engine (above the rear rotor) and closer to the driver's side. It's the main ground.

 

ooo um i dont have any kinda ground on my upper manifold, nor i dont think i ever did.