Wow that ones fairly new isn't it?? That's the big negative to launching it's so hard on the driveline. That's the main reason I don't do it, I don't like it enough to replace parts(clutches), I'd rather just buy tons of tires and brakes. :scratch:

Don, what AFR's were you running at that high boost run?? And was it on your LC-1 or the dyno WB??

I went last friday to the dyno and his was reading completely different AFRs than my LM-1, so I didn't lean it out as much as I had planned due to his reading so much higher. I know mines set up right as I checked the settings and the sensor is brand new, plus I've done multiple runs on the street without a problem.

Dons was tuned off the LM-1 in his car as the dyno's was reading differant also. I think most usually do unless they are fairly new and have no scene a ton of leaded gas. I do not think Don has the log but I bet it was low-mid 11's on the Q16-high boost pull. Ray could have pulled more power I am sure by ading some timing and leaning it out some. I spoke to Ray yesterday and he said I could even add some timing to mine if I wanted..

How did it do on the dyno Chris?

Yes, my clutch has 4k miles on it. Not sure what the 6 puck was rated at but I have been droping the clutch at 8300rpms.

His was reading around 13-14afr in the tail pipe when mine was at 10.8, then he actually undid it and replaced mine and it still read about 11.8-12. I actually added so much fuel trying to show him it was messed up I started missing and it was still reading right around 12. I just left it tuned at 10.8 and figured I'd double check my settings when I got home and it was fine.

It made 382hp/324tq. spiked to about 17.5 right after transition, and then held around 16. I wanted to mess with the timing alittle more and try leaning it out some to around 11.2-11.4 but ran out of time, plus the whole WB thing had me nervous. I also need to talk to Bryan and see if he knows why I can't get the boost to go any higher.

What kind of timing are y'all running around that boost level? I was at 12 leading with 12 split around peak torque.

Very nice! So is this on BNR twins and a LUIS streetport? I would never just go by the dyno's wideband.. I honestly could not tell you my timing right now being at work and I never run or really tuned for 17-18psi but I can tell you at 24psi I am running way more timing but its race gas... I run 0 split up top till very low boost the quickly take it to 10 split . I got that from one of Rays maps back last year. I will look tonight to see.. I am curious to see Dons timing map also.

I haven't even turned on my laptop since the tune day. But yeah, I think Ray tuned using my LC-1.
Been doing a little research recently and I think when I install my new clutch, I'll be adding something else... hopfully to at least net an addtional 18 HP... 400!

Chris, was your tune on race gas or pump gas?

what you gonna add to get 18hp?

BTW Chris, I am runing in the (22 area) up top around the 23psi area.

Research...

Yep Luis Street port and BNRs, seq. It made about what I thought at that PSI. I think I could have got to 390 maybe 400 if I had more time. I was wanting 400. I'll go back sometime this summer and tune with my WB only!!!

It was a combination of 100 and 93, mostly 93 because I had about 2/3 a tank when I filled it up with 100 octane.

Wow 22 mine only tapers up to about 17, but I'm mostly on pump gas. I used one of Chucks maps and modified it sum.

If anyone around gets Ray back down this way I may let him tune to see what he can do. He knows the limits of timing and AFRs, and I'm not comfortable enough to play around alot to try to find out.

Don, Has anyone actually made more hp with just adding AI? I thought it was just giving the added octane and to pull some heat allowing one to crank more boost in your case on Q16 it will not matter. But on pump gas it sure will help.

Chris, I do not think Ray will be back down anytime soon unless we could get 6+ cars lined up.

Now with my clutch issue I am not sure if I am going to the gap just yet... Guess I could trailer it up but what fun is that....

Don, what brand AI you going with, I'm actually starting to look at it just as a safety factor more than anything. I was probably going to initially just use water, or a very small mix of meth.

Mike, is the clutch so bad it slips on the street?

Nice numbers Chris!! I too am thinking about adding some type of AI. I was thinking that a simple water injection system would be sufficient, but have been reading otherwise in Howard Coleman's. I still think that, for what I want it for, a single stage WI will be just fine. Let me what kit you go with if you end up getting one.

Brent

I was kinda thinking the same thing, single stage simple. I was looking at coolingmists standard kit since it's pretty cheap and I could reuse the washer fluid tank since I don't even have it in the car right now. I won't ever make 500hp or even 450 with twins so I think just a little bit of safety is all that is needed for around 400hp, since it is very possible to run just 93 and be fine. But I'd feel better if I could keep everything a little cooler and cleaner. Plus under really hard driving I only run about 10-12psi.

I do not think making 450 or 600 is the real issue.. Its the high charge temps the twins produce. So anyone cranking those boys up would benefit from some type of inj. system.
there are quite a few guys now making 500+ on 93 gas with single set ups. My 16psi was cut off at 450ish @ 6800rpm due to boost creep, would have been close to 500.e

Chris, I can still drive on the clutch, heck I could even make some passes at the track but it would be sliping. What I am trying to figure out is if the P.plate can be reused as its balanced and not sure if ACT will rebuild it, then Iwas thinking last night-I bet its a HD not a extreme.. If so that could be my problem there. So right now I am not sure what I will do.

Yeah your right on the charge temps more than the hp. But I think even the twins running 18 or so psi and using 93 you can get away with full 1/4 mile pulls, or 4th gear pulls if you don't hot lap it. I wouldn't track them that high though. I eventually want to go with a small single just because of that.

I bet you are right, but I think it would be on the edge at 18psi.. I would throw in some race gas to be safe. Even back when I was on stock twins and running 14-15psi I would mix in some 110. Race gas is by far one of the cheapest insurance items to have.

So I just ordered another 6 puck for the time. Might even have it in for the gap. If not I will just try and take it somewhat easy... LOL....

My initial plan was just to mix 110 to the tanks of gas I planned on running high boost after I got it tuned, but it doesn't take long to add up to a AI system when 110 is $6-7 a gal. I've been mixing 100 unleaded when I tune on it to keep from damaging the WB, but it actually cost more than 110 and takes more to up the octane any.

For what you are doing in your car I would see why you want AI.. But for drag racing I think guys are better off with just race race.. Sure if you want to add it on why not but I personally dont see a need if you run the good stuff... c16-q16 ($15gal)... Its not like race gas will fail as a AI system can or clog or maybe a big spike in boost hits.. I have never heard of a car blow from detenation on c16 that was tuned decent. But on the cheap stuff there have been many. There was a thread on this awhile back..


So I ordered another 6 puck to put in for the time. From reading it sounds like the 6 pucks are only good for so many high rpm drops. I am looking at a few other combos to run. If you watch the link in my sig you can here 1-2-gear slipping but 3rd sounds fine. So the clutch is not 100% gone yet.

ATM, not really sure. I'm looking at AI for cooling factor only. I'm assuming with a cooler intake charge the additional 18hp I need to hit my goal should be a freebie. I might piece together my own system to suit what I want it to do. I'm thinking 150psi pump, M5 nozzle, 10 psi boost switch, 3 way normally closed solenoid with a return line to the tank and wire it in series with my intercooler fan switch so I can control when I need it... still researching everything right now.

Does Exedy or someone make a twin plate that'll take some high rpm drops??

There are a few (tilton OS etc...) but seems most real multi disk are made to be used with a g-force, liberty type race tranny. I have heard of a few running the excedy with sintered iron disk that work but not the run of the mill excedy double or triple. Really from the info I have gathered my besy bet is running the 6 puck unsprung and just replacing it a few times a year before it kills PPlate or flywheel. Thats until I put in a real tranny $$$$.

That sounds expensive, but I guess there isn't much of anything reasonably cheap that will actually take alot of 8k launches.

Alexander City Alabama baby about an hour out of montgomery Im not alone in this state!!!!!