Rtek Forum Discuss the Rtek 2.0 and other Rtek ECU's

Rtek S5 Tii Stage 2 cranking map?

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Old Mar 21, 2013 | 11:10 PM
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From: Austin
S5 Tii Stage 2 cranking map?

We have hot start problems. Perfect idle, great compression, instant cold start, thermosensor reading correctly, etc.

I was going to do HAILERS trick of pulling the starter pin from the ECU and then I thought I'd chk the Rtek. And the manual says it has it! hurray!

But when I hooked up the Clie to my disappointment the cranking tab said it wasnt supported. Is that a bug, a bad connection (I saw fc3schick's threads) or does the N370 simply prevent the cranking map from being overridden?

Besides HAILERS trick are there other routes to defeating the silly Mazda map?

Thx
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 10:36 AM
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The S5 Rteks don't support the crank map.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 06:05 PM
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From: Treasure coast
great compression and hot start issues?

you might want to consider introducing a switch on that 3B cable. you want that signal to the ECU when cold.

if I understand correctly at least on the S4TII fuel pressure is increased momentarily during hot start cranking. If the S5 is the same, is your solonoid active controlling vacuum to the FPR?

is your hot cranking speed @ least 225-250 rpm and consistent?

Last edited by Clubuser; Mar 22, 2013 at 06:12 PM.
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Old Mar 22, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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Mazda built the starting map very rich for the stock injectors - 540s IIRC. We're running 720s in the primaries.

HAILERS proved by measurement here in post 41 that on his S4 the crank map was more than three times richer than normal running. And with our 33% bigger injectors we're even richer than that. And we have a Walbro which I've read exacerbates the problem.

On page 13 of his documentation turbo2ltr says...

Crank Fueling - When you have larger primary injectors, flooding while starting can be a problem.
Net-net, we are 33% richer than the already rich OEM map and unfortunately turbo2ltr can't change the crank map on the N370s.

So since turbo2ltr has crushed my hopes and dreams , we'll pull 1C and see what happens.

If that fixes it, we'll probably just put some heat shrink on it and call it a day. When it gets cold again (we occasionally get below freezing) we'll probably just put an intermittent button to act like a choke for those few cold mornings.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 06:57 PM
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If you're on the 720/720 injector setting, the duty cycles are automatically reduced to keep the mixtures the same as stock. What you gain by using larger injectors is more headroom for adjustment before the injectors max out. I *think* on my N332 Rtek 2.1 the start map D/Cs also change when going between injector settings. It's been awhile and I use custom settings (MUCH less fuel). But I don't know if the S5 Rteks adjust the start map at all. That's a question for turbo2ltr.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 07:52 PM
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S5 ECU turns injectors off at WOT during starting...right?
We never had that problem with S5's.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Wms10th
S5 ECU turns injectors off at WOT during starting...right?
We never had that problem with S5's.
Yeah I'm quite sure the stock S5 ECUs have the "flood clear" feature built in.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 12:20 PM
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From: Treasure coast
When at Op-Temp, flood clear all it does clear the chamber for it to get flooded again next time fuel gets dumped and you either have low compression and/or low cranking speed.

my Autozone rebuilt starter 1 out of 5 consecutive start attempts (on average) will suddenly spin my S4TII at a higher RPM which seems to be around 240 rpm. I've doubled up on the battery cables to rule out current drop being the cause. At this HIGHER RPM, compression is ~95 psi on all rotor faces. At the more often slower cranking speed (which sounds anemic, p.s.) compression is ~81 psi. When engine is @ Op-Temp, the engine will NOT fire-up at the LOWER cranking speed even with the 12V cut to pin 3B (start signal). But at that HIGHER RPM AND no 12V on pin 3B, it will start almost instantly.

THe word is Autozone starters are not to be trusted and the only replacement starter to get is the one at your local Mazda dealer. Which looks like it might be the last one in the country I just ordered.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Clubuser
...you either have low compression and/or low cranking speed.

THe word is Autozone starters are not to be trusted and the only replacement starter to get is the one at your local Mazda dealer. Which looks like it might be the last one in the country I just ordered.
I kinda thought so on the compression...my old engine had low compression and was mostly hard to start untill we did our little trick on it.

I did know that about autozone starters...
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