Wondering If anyone has any similar set up like me and would like to see How to tune/map/6PI/VDI etc, it thanks

S5 NA 5spd with RTEk 2.0
4:30 LSD (off GTUs)
RB aluminum flywheel
Street Ported with pineapple insert sleeve
RB True dual from header all the way back
Blitz Intake
prim. 460cc secd. 460cc
(might maybe go 550cc on secd. down the road but for now 460 would be fine)

thanks

 

i dont yet but will soon just ported my motor tonight and orderd my apex seals but rtek gona have to wait tell i can get some more money.

 

I'm pretty much identical to you but haven't had a chance to tune. It's on a track car that isn't street legal so I need track time to run it under load to see what I've got. I also need to be sneaky about this since I'm not supposed to be running rtek.

 

are you running RB true dual? if so are you using a wide band? AFR

 

No, I'm running the RB header that goes into a single tube RB catback exhaust that splits into 2 tips. I also have a lightened steel flywheel and 550 secondaries but other than that I have everything else you have listed. Pineapple street port intake/exhaust with T2 inserts. I do have a wideband but have been unable to run the rTek/wideband under load. As I said, this stuff isn't legal for what I'm doing so I have to be somewhat sneaky about it. I have hooked it all up and confirm that it's working but only in the driveway. The last race did not present an opportunity to tune so I need to wait a couple more months for the next opportunity or break down and take it to a dyno somewhere.

 

You'll need a wideband for making any changes to the fuel correction map. At WOT, which is presumably where you'll be doing your tuning, the MAP sensor should be reading in the range of 0 to -3, which is the top 3-4 rows on your fuel map with the RTek.

Ideally, you would do this in 4th gear on a dyno. Unless you have evidence otherwise, I wouldn't trust the numbers given by their tailpipe O2 sniffer. One facility I go to reads 0.4 (mid rpms) to 1.2 (upper rpms) higher than my wideband. Had I trusted their AFRs, I would have tuned my car too conservatively. During a recent dyno day elsewhere, their sniffer was reading 13.0 when my wideband showed 14.1. Believing their AFRs could have resulted in engine damage..... These are just examples to stress the importance of having your own wideband available for tuning.

If you can't go to a dyno, you can do some WOT runs in 2nd gear on the street. With a 4.3 rear end, you can cover 5000 to 8500 rpm accelerating from 40 to 68 mph. Aim for an AFR of about 13. Some say a little higher is also ok for n/a's.

Tuning timing is a bit more difficult to do. The n/a's don't have a knock sensor to help out, and the gains might not be significant. We tried some more aggressive timing with my engine, but it lost some power, so we ended up leaving the timing map essentially untouched.

As for 6PI / VDI -- adjusting the staging RPM will not result in any gain at high RPM. Playing with the staging may have some subtle improvement at low- to mid-range, but it's probably not very noticeable. With larger ports, I'm guessing you might delay 6PI staging slightly to keep air velocities higher for power at lower rpms. As for VDI, the longer intake runner length (valve "closed") only benefits a narrow RPM range, so I'm not sure whether there is benefit in delaying or advancing the staging much. Optimizing 6PI / VDI operation is something I intended to do back when they were still air-pump activated in my car, but never got around to it. On the other hand, I do have dyno results that demonstrate high-rpm power loss if either of these systems is not functioning.

So -- go out and buy a wideband, and hook it up to pin 3F on your ECU for logging!

 

the 6pi and VDI are really easy on the dyno, a bit hard to do on the street. you make a run with both the 6pi and VDI off. make run #2 with the 6pi ON VDI off, and then 6pi ON and VDI on.

you just lay all 3 runs on top of each other, and where they intersect is the spot you want to turn em on.

on the street you can use the butt dyno, or maybe log airflow (more power = more airflow).

 

+1 on this thread. Looking to get into another NA S5 to tune/use as a daily. The set up im gonna run is pretty much exactly like RXCookies/Cheseroo. Once I find the right car (stock/smog legal drivetrain) im gonna get the RTEK and dyno tune the stock set up first, then put on all my stuff in one shot and tune that set up. Then when the day comes (hopefully later than sooner!), itll get a rebuild w/T2 rotor housings and a mild street port, one final retune and call it done motor-wise.

Gonna be doing research while I get everything together but if anyone has a similar set up, map sharing would be greatly appreciated! Hopefully we can a good NA thread going like the Turbo guys have!

This is what ill be running:
S5 NA w/RTEK Stage 2 (tuned 6PI & VDI)
Innovate Wide Band
Not sure which palm PDA yet
RB Road Race Header
RB Road Race Presilencer
Dual 2-1/4" piping
Dual 2-1/2" Super Turbos
K&N Filter in the stock air box
Pineapple Racing 6PI Sleeves
MSD Box on the leading ignition

Anyway, good luck on your setups fellas!

 

whats up RXCookie
In trying to find a thread with some tuning info for an NA S5 Stage 2 RTEK set up I came across you, Cheseroo, righthandfc, a2dadamm (& me) that are all looking for tuning tips/info but not finding it. So what i did was ask righthandfc and a2dadamm to post their progress/good tuning maps/mistakes/dos & donts/etc on your thread so that between the 5 of us (and whoever else is tuning a combo like ours) we can consolidate our info and everyone can reap the benefits and hopefully prevent a bunch of guys from repeating each others mistakes.

Plus if we can get the experienced guys like TURBO2LTR, etc involved in your thread then all their knowledge/tips will be in one easy place for anyone to find. Hopefully your cool with all the info coming onto your thread (if not I can start a new one). Anyway, we'll see what happens!

Good luck everyone!

 

For PDA, I have the m130 and m515 (one of each). To connect to your PC, get a USB to serial port adapter if your computer lacks a physical serial port. To connect to the RTek, use an OEM Palm cable or purchase one from Digital Tuning. (I've not had luck with the Chinese-made aftermarket cables, but others have.)

Don't bother with any native Palm USB cables/cradles to sync. Setup sync via serial port only.

You can avoid sync most of the time by using SD Cards. You'll need third-party software (.prc programs) to manipulate files because Palm/3Com forgot to include a file manager in the OS (brilliant). The two I use are Roscoe Explorer and FileMan, of which the latter is more useful, since it translates log filenames automatically (there are forward slashes in the filenames, which must be dealt with when copying files to the SD card). Unfortunately, you will need to setup Palm Desktop sync to get a file manager installed, so you can't really avoid that step initially. I am probably the last person in the world to obtain a FileMan license before the software vendor ceased operations. Therefore, I feel justified in revealing the registration code, should you need it.

The Palm OS emulator (running on your laptop) is an option. The setup steps are published. It is actually not much more convenient than the physical device, because you still have to use the little arrows in the UI to change fuel/timing corrections. It's a matter of preference.

I do not recommend earlier b&w Palms because: (1) it's hard to get batteries for them, (2) CPU is slower, which sometimes bogs down the map refresh, (3) the color screens are easier to view/read.

There are recent reports of using the Sony Clie SJ-30 . I'm thinking of getting one because of its much higher resolution display (320 x 320). This should improve readability of log files on the PDA. Hopefully, I can find a serial cable for it as well.

That is my $0.02 on the PDA topic, FWIW.

 

Greazerlou,
sounds good no problem!!!!

 

088,
Holy Schinizzle brotha!!! Your one tech saavy son of a gun! Thanks for the tips.

Cookie,
You da man!

 

I dont know if you guys are following this thread https://www.rx7club.com/rtek-forum-168/android-please-967709/ but hold off on buying the stage 2 if you have an android OS tablet or phone.. we might be able to tune our cars by connecting through bluetooth..There is some exciting breakthroughs taking place lol

 

NO! don't hold off, the more sales the more development can take place!
any rtek's you currently have will likely be upgradable to bluetooth/android.

 

hahaha when you put it that way it makes sense but don't we need to send it back and pay extra to have it upgraded?

 

^Like it says in the Android thread, you would *not* need to send it in for the BT upgrade. The bluetooth functionality is enabled by means of a dongle that attaches to the serial cable.

 

Yeah, the more orders, the less consulting work I have to do, the more time I have to work on the Rtek.

"Phase 1" will be plug-n-play upgrade to Android. No need to even remove the ECU from the car. Though you will have to provide 12V power to the dongle.

 

i wrote that and then saw the other thread response. Sounds like a plan!

 

OH how i absolutely LOVE PHASES!!

 

Whats up boys, anyone been making any progress???? I just picked up my S5 a few weeks ago... got it smogged/registered/insured and hopefully once I get some maintenance/cosmetic stuff done to make it a decent daily driver ill be able to start making my uprades... woohoo!

So far ive dropped a K&N into the stock airbox and had to get my exhaust done right away because the stock muffers were trashed and sounded super crapy! So now its set up with an RB road race header/road race presilencer combo with twin 2.25" piping all the way to the back, collecting into a single 2.5" Magnaflow... this is my first Magnaflow and I friggin love the way my car sounds man! Anywho, thats where im at so hopeully in the next couple of months ill be able to start adding some power.... yeee dawgie!