I've been hearing about this restrictor pill.
What the heck is it?where does it go?.do I need one?
I have the Rtek 2.1 on the car(Solareon's map.) and it runs ok to about 5100 then it acts like ****,so I keep it below that particular point.(until I can square things out tuning wise).
Does anyone think that this Pill will Fix my Sick car??...lol..
Thanks guys.Dave.

 

A small plastic piece with a tiny hole in it that goes in the boost sensor line. It reduces the amount of air that can pass through it, which smooths out pressure changes & the signal to the ECU. A jumpy boost signal can mess with the fuel/timing.

 

the restrictor pill is located in the vacuum hose from the back of the upper manifold (near BAC) to the map sensor.
It only smoothes out the air pulses to the map sensor so it doesnt read any erratic air changes.

 

..Hmmm..so Basically the Vac hose is too big..and it needs a restriction(smaller oriface In the hose) to make the Boost more Stable to the Map sensor..
If that is right,please someone confirm, and I can go ahead and try to make my own restrictor Pill...Unless someone has one they can send me!

 

That's the gist of it. And yeah, you do need one. I know from experience that while tuning on the dyno when my restrictor pill was MIA, the electrical signal from the MAP sensor was so erratic that my boost was jumping all over the place.

Shouldn't be too hard to make your own. Start with an 1/8 inch diameter cylinder, plastic or AL, no more than 1/8 ~ 1/4 inches long, and drill a pinhole diameter hole in the center of flat side all the way through. Obviously you'll need a really tiny drill bit to do this. Another way might be to mold your tiny cylinder out of an epoxy putty, and before it fully hardens, run it through with a pin.

 

I just made one out of a little plastic cap with a 1/32" hole drilled in it. Cram it into the line just before the pressure sensor, and you're good to go.

 

That is pretty well what I am gonna Do Rocket.
Get something and drill a hole in it,and stuff it between the sensor and manifold.
Now can anyone help with the O2 and Trailing coil failure?.(#5 and #12 Codes?)..I have another thread.
Thanks Guys.(prevent me from going V8!)

 

Would not having a pill cause hesitation between 3500-4000 RPM during cruising?

I just got my car running and my setup is 550CC Primaries/720CC Secondaries with an FD fuel pump and an Rtek 1.7. The car is an S5 TII with a 3" turboback exhaust and emission deleted.
I do not have a Pill/Orifice in the line to the pressure sensor.

At WOT from a stop there is no hesiation and my AFR's are fine. If I'm cruing in gear around 3000 RPM and hit it, the car bogs at around 3500 and AFR's lean out like crazy. The secondaire aren't kicking in soon enough. If I cruise at ~3800+ and then stomp it, the car accelerates great and AFR's are good.

I'm still searching this Rtek section for my issue, but I figured I'd chime in here because I don't have a pill in my line.

 

Autozone and Advance have the "pill" for less than 3 bucks... go get one! Its where (duh) all of the vacuum crap is.

 

Similarly, the stealership will charge you $3.22, part # 8931-13-986 .

 

Thats cold...but I won't take offense. I have worked and still work in dealerships since 1970.

 

The "stealership" nickname is well-deserved, IMHO.
(and the result of that test was 90 psi @ 85 rpm. Yes, they really did say 85 rpm).

 

I've been called worse in 40 years working in the service dept.

Yes, 85 RPM is the readout on the Compression tester...should be faster, though.

 

^^
They did correct themselves eventually, stating they dropped a 2 (so it was really 285). I guess that gets dropped from the readout? BTW, this was done with a new computerized tester that they hookup to RX-8's these days. So, I don't buy that story. (And, of course, turning the engine over at 85 RPM sounds distinctively different from 285).

Also, the semi-old school Mazda tester had three digits on each LED panel. http://www.rhdjapan.com/media/catalo...m/imgp6072.jpg

 

would not having this "pill" make a 13 MAP sensor code keep coming up. i have an rtek 2.0 in my streetported s5 na and my palm has a 13 MAP code all the time and it will not go away. i replaced the boost sensor with a known good one and its still there.

 

Are you using the NA MAP sensor? I assume you aren't a turbocharged NA? I don't think it's too likely to cause a MAP code, but i suppose it might if you combine it with a port.

 

why not see if the palm is actually reading a pressure sensor signal?

the ECU generally only throws that code if there is a wiring issue, like a grounded or open circuit. the Rtek still adopts the basic diagnostics that the stock ECU used for throwing codes which is about as rough as a brick.

reading the sensor signal will at least give you an idea if the sensor is doing something or not, and what it's doing to give a hint of the underlying issue. much simpler than avoiding it and going after the generic code that is popping up. the Rtek is a decent diagnostic plug n play tool, use that potential for what it's worth.

 

yes i am using the stock n350 map and no i am not turbo (yet). i have checked the map signal and it bounces around a bit while im driving but im not really sure what the factory spec are supposed to be. before i replaced the map tho it stayed at 16 constantly and never changed.

 

stupid question, did you try clearing the code?

 

yeah it wont clear. it wont even try to clear.

 

since we're on the subject... I dropped in the "pill" a while ago, and though it did help with the erratic signal, the logs are a little bit more erratic than some that I've seen posted on here. I'm kinda worried that the ECU will be reading different columns, though my boost is consistently 10psi. It varies from 9.9ish to 6. I just decided to post a log.

Wonder if my MAP sensor is going bad, or if I can use a GM 3 bar one with the RTEK?

 

if the feed source you are using is the stock location, you should switch it to near the Throttle body. mines was erratic even with the pill, and I even added a second pill. The pulses are too strong from the one rotor at the stock location near the ACV, the ports near the TB next to the alternator is more smoother. I switched mines and it was very smooth, no more jumped timing.

 

yep, the signal closer to the port shows the pulse of each rotor closing the port face. further you go upstream the cleaner the signal will be.

 

thanks guys... will do after I recover my seats today/tomorrow!

 

So I just finished my seats, and now I'm on this. Are you talking about "teeing" into one of the 3 ports on the front of the UIM, right before the TB?