My Info on Rtek 2.0
 

Ok so i finnally got my palmpilot so i could get everything going on my Rtek 2.0

I sent off an email to the guys at Digital tuning and figured i would post a copy of it here as it covers just about all aspects of the device.


Hello there.

You folks asked me if I could give you some feedback about my rtek 2.0 so here it is.

Ease of installation.........you are kidding right? For me that involved pulling my FCD, removing my Super AFC wiring and reconnecting the fuel wire. As far as the ATP hook up it took me all of about 2 minutes to look up the right one in my wiring diagram. (yellow w/green) replace the ECU and that was it.

Setup.
Pretty strait forward as well. You manual lays it out pretty well. The only small mistake I had here was the elevation was set to meters by default and I didn’t notice. Didn’t do much for me as I live at about 300 feet so the difference was negligible. I fixed it though.

Fuel maps are about as easy as my S AFC just more of them. I found that after entering a few into the spreadsheet style that I preferred the graph style. 3D is cool, but I prefer the other two. My settings are VERY rich at the moment, but of course I only did that for safety and will dial them down a bit.

Timing: no adjustments made: I will only have this done on a dyno by someone who knows a lot more about rotary timing then me!

Diagnostic.

HMMMMMMMMM where to start?

I was pleasantly surprised to find out that I had no sensor errors. I was really expecting the water temp switch was dead. Oh well
I did however have some other interesting readings on this though. Before plugged the palm into the ECU I noticed that I had no reading of any kind on either the input or output listings. Upon turning the key to acc I got all of the expected listings, and played with the clutch, 5th gear, AC etc. and watched them change. Very nice
While starting the car I noticed that the "starter switch" check box never checked. I'm assuming that this is a fault with my car that I hopefully track down. HOWEVER if for some reason it’s just a glitch in the program please let me know so as to save me some time.

Unusual bits.

Ok so I noticed that if I turn my palm to the Diagnostic setting while unplugged from the car I get the following listings checked.
Inputs
starter switch
initial Set Coupler
A/C switch

Outputs
Air bypass
prcv
twin scroll
o2 sensor r/l

These seem to reset to all unchecked if I switch programs on the palm. i.e. go to calculator or such.

Data logging.

I had several problems with the data logging part of the program...
Sometimes I could not get the saved log to show any of the values. I could move back and forth through the log but no matter where I touched it would not show the value. Also the slider would not work at all. It happened on all of the 5 logs I had saved. It appears that I have fixed this problem by blanking my palm and re installing the software. Other then that the logging is quite helpful.

Installing of the software seemed to be hit and miss. The first 2 times trying to install through the palm desktop failed. When I used the little quick install program it worked just fine. This was the case the second time I installed the program after blanking my palm as well.

My only other issue with the unit is the ATP setting. When using it for an input for my wideband (plx m250) the rating seems to be a numerical value from 0-255. 255 appears to be full lean (0 volts, I’m guessing) and even though I haven’t hit 0 it appears to be full rich (5 volts?) Is the assumption correct? If so does that mean stoich it about 112? It seems a rather odd way of logging the info, is there any way to change it to read true voltage? or better yet subroutine to convert it to read AFR 10-19.9???

That seems to about sum every thing up.

Since fixing (I hope) the logging function so I can actually use it, I have been very happy with this device so far. Admittedly it’s only been one day but hey, so far, so good.



E. Olson
87 Turbo II
171k on chassis
20k on rebuilt engine with 3mm apex seals.
Racing beat turbo back exhaust with custom 3" cat (cat not on right now)
Plx m250
Cone intake
Stock injectors (for now)
Stock turbo with boost creep up to about 12 psi (11.7 at about 24 on the ATP setting or about low 10s on my AFR gauge)
Walbro fuel pump sitting in the box waiting to be installed.


If you board members have any questions about this thing ask away, i would love to help

What's the deal with ATP???????? I don't understand at all. The last time I looked ATP stood for Atmospheric Pressure Sensor, a device hidden up above the passengers legs.

They have made it so that you can disconect the ATP and install a wideband to it. You then can set your rough altitude with a slider in the software. Mine is at about 300f. The weird thing is that instede of reading voltage, it lists it as a value from 0-255 0 appears to be full rich and 255 full lean.

where can i get one
and how much are they
and how do you connect?
which style connectors or cables

how many fuel settings(maps) are there?? what rpms are they??

About your Pocketlogger cable. They CLAIM there is a serial number on a tag on the one you buy from them. The one I got today has no tag with a serial number. So I'm asking, did yours have a tag with a serial number? On the Pocketlogger cable? A three or four digit number?

I'll be getting mine soon and I'm sure I'll have some questions about it soon.


When you downloaded the program for the palm. Did they send it to you or do you download it from the site? I'll probably won't be seeing mine until the weekend.

That is referring to the OBDII/DSM logger cables. The Rtek7 PocketLOGGER does not have a serial number.

I'm SERIOUSLY thinking of sending the thing back in the morning and taking the shipping loss. I can't even get past the Registration part of the online form to get the software. Money better spent elsewhere.

bugs...i hate bugs.....

No serial number on the cable. The only number you might need is on the ECU itself.

I made the mistake of trying to register my ECU to get the software, but you dont need to. Just use the software that is attached to the Email they sent you.

I had a little trouble uploading the software to my palm VII. Dont try and load it with the palm desktop software. Use the seperate program that palm installs under your start menu.
Its called "palmone quick install"

Thank you. I'll look at the e-mails I have for *software*. No software.........a Neil Pryde sail is starting to look better by the minute. Only a couple hunderd more for it and no software needed. Only water and twenty knot winds. Thanks for the hints though.

Michelob:

where can i get one
Digital Tuning

and how much are they
$400

and how do you connect?
which style connectors or cables
You run it with a palm pilot, and use a cable that they install on the ECU. It needs a special cable for each different palm. Mine cost $6.95 shipped off of ebay.

As I sit here at 1:56 am, I'd like to vent my spleen and say the Pocketlogger site is completely usless for trying to leave a E-Mail and that the Instructions for PocketLogger for RX-7 is INEPT in spades.

That about covers it.

well if hailers can't get it working...i'm having doubts about this thing. I was curious, as I've been looking into megasquirt, but this rtek 2.0 also seemed promising, but it's not looking good right now. Anybody else have this thing hooked up yet?

lol, guys chill out! there are always problems with everything you install. Think how many people wouldn't have standalones like microtech and haltech etc.... because they couldn't get thier car to start up right after wiring the thing up. I think however for the time being they should have two things.

1. tech support for software setup if hailers can't even do it. Really they need to get on the ball cause if hailers starts saying he doesn't like it then a bunch of peole will not buy it and digital tunning is going to be out a lot of money

2. a support link on the website that has software downloads and they need to have it password protected maybe so others that don't have the 2.0 can't download it. Then mass email the people that have bought it a password.

Good luck guys but don't give up so easily, I didn't and the countless other people didn't wither thier standalones. Just think about when all performance rx7s where where carbed and then started to go to ecu's. Man can you emagine the troubles at first cause it was a new thing? And most of the engine managments system out there aren't even from america, lol. Just remember the end result (FREAKIN COOL!)


has anyone called them????

i still have faith!!! i JUST ordered the rtek 1.7 last nite and sent out my ECU this morning....i will run this till prob. next year and upgrade to the 2.0....i want a better understanding of how my engine is going to respond to 12LBS. of boost before i spend another 250 bucks...

Things have improved in the last four hours. It seems that I was sent/supposed to have been sent, a E-Mail with the software download information. For whatever reason that E-Mail with the attachment was never seen by me or my dog ate it one, and I don't even have dog.

Since contacting them I've downloaded the software to the Palm, but there's no time to work on it today.

It seems the problem arose because I missed the E-mail attachment , and I read some instructions on their wed site on how to get the software. Unfortunaltly those instructions on the site don't apply anymore, hence the frustration in trying to get the software by following the written instructions on that site.

So right now things are more or less ....ok. I can stop spitting nails.

lololololol

Just a update and an apology. I just put the ECU in the car and connected the Palm to it and I'm as pleased as punch so far.

Installation of the software to the Palm and install of the ECU is a snap and the Palm acutally is easy to view, contrary to what I was thinking it would look like.

I have not driven or made any corrections but as far as software install and physical installation it's a breeze. My only real problem was I missed the e-mail that had the software in it. If it hadn't been for that I wouldn't have a thing to complain about. Just don't let your dog eat the e-mails.

Sorry about any bad impressions I might have made about the RTEK.

who wants to grab hailers a tampon? :) j/k

well i ordered it and didn't get any attachment in my email either....

If I were you..........I'd call them at that 444xxxxxxxxx number on their site and ask about it.

This is what I understand, and I could be wrong:

I followed the registration instructions on the site, or rather TRIED to follow the instructions so I'd get the software. It seems that is not the way things work. Don't follow instructions is the key??? Yes.

What I understood from the conversation with them, is that there was supposed to be a EMAIL with the software download instructions sent to me when the item was shipped. The attachment got eaten up in cyber space or???

As soon as they knew I did not get the attachment they sent me a email with the download url.

By the way, when I downloaded the software to the PDA , and did not have it connected to the ECU, I noticed if I tapped a function on the PDA RTEK screen, the response from the PDA was extremely slow. So I thought *this sucks*. But when I finally went out to the car and installed the ECU and the PDA to it, everything happens as you would expect when you select a function i.e. quickly. Just some FYI.

By the way, the temps are in C* not F*. I guess I'm going to be dragged kicking and screaming into the metric world.

Bottom line: call them at the 444xxxxxx number on their site and ask.

Got no answer on the phone but Mike Montalvo replied to an email I sent them very quickly. He gave me access to the software after seeing that they had received my ECU and my payment. He said they would have gotten around to sending me the email on monday. I guess I'm just too impatient! I'm gunna load it up on my palm and mess around with it now!

I just got my rtek 2.0 yesterday, a few days after i paid for it they sent me an email with an attachment- then i got the ecu. I will be installing it tomorrow and my turbo will be here monday. I'll let you know from there how it goes, but so for the software installed on the palm with out a glitch and is fun to play with.

Had a lot of problems with stylus calibration, but found a program that auto runs the stylus calibration after every soft reset (one simple press of the reset button). It's called ReDigi 1.0 and can be found at ww.palmgear.com (after a simple free registration).

Tom

Hey guys, I apologize for some of the confusion. Just before the release, we decided to do away with the registration process, which was supposed to make things easier. The problem is I forgot to change the manual to refelect that you no longer had to register in order to get the software. This was the source of a lot of confusion and has since been updated.

AOL and hotmail love to eat our emails for some reason, especially if they have an attachment. We have started putting information notices in the boxes for those that get their ECU and are wondering where the software is. This should help eliminate a lot of the problems.

-Mike

Guess that's what happens when one of us Canadians design something eh...

Darn Furriners at it again with that celcius thing.

AuggieDogg ........my starter box checkes when the key is put to Start. I'd take a look at pin 3B and see if your getting voltage when the key is put to Start.

I'm still playing with my Palm when i get time. I'm facinated with the Lead and Trail timing. When viewing them on the palm they go to -25* whenever you start the engine, then as you idle the cold engine they are both retarded to ???? * and then gradually come to the -5 and -20* as they should. When driving at a steady speed they both read the same but under thottle they split or if you let off the throttle the trail goes towards zero.......all sorts of fun things

Just having fun and not doing anything serious with it., yet.

Well this is sounding better. Can a wideband be hooked into this setup anyway for datalogging? Where's the best place for a list of features that it offers?

At the bottom of this page: http://www.digitaltuning.com/index.php?pid=rtek7v2deth

And lets say you didn't already have a wideband. Look at the site and they teamed up with Zeitronix who make a wideband and they use a Palm to view the output of the Zeitonix wideband. There's more to it than that, that's just the small part I remember.

And for the curious that have one of these, here's something to do.........with a cold engine, say in the morning, take a look at the duty cycle as you start the car.

Then later, once the engine is warm/hot, do the same thing again and compare those figures with the earlier ones. Quite a difference, eh? Yeah.

It's more accurate to do this with a fuel cut switch in the off position so you get a good look at the duty cycle before the engine starts.

Yes I hooked up my wideband using the ATP sensor as they state. It works great! HOWEVER it reads as a 0-255 255 being full lean and 0 being full rich. 0v-5v. Its kinda cool/weird. I make a run and see that im pulling say 8.5 PSI then look down at the AFR and see that it reads 30. Which is pretty rich. Thankfully I have a PLX Gauge on my a piller just to make sure. I've got this thing runing really rich for safty right now as im pretty much just using it do figure out a buch of other problems.

Example my starter switch button. it works but its delayed. but i need to work on that some more.

sounds good

the wideband readings are kinda weird...im really glad you guys are playin with these to get a good understanding so when others (like me ) have questions you know what the hell to do!! :)

The ATP input is a general purpose input which is why it reads in "generic"
units. Its actually giving you the raw digitized value of the voltage at the
input pin. to convert to volts: v = (value / 255) * 5.0. On my car, I use it
for WBO2 and fuel pressure.

We'll be adding the ability to describe a conversion equation so that the
display is a little more human friendly. Install of a new version of the Palm
software, when ready, is all that will be needed to install.

-Henrik

I knida figured you would make a conversion for it. Are you going to do it to read volts? Or possible programable (by us if needed) to read AFR ?

So for i actually like it more for the Diagnosing isues. I found out that my O2 sensor is outa wack (3.3 volts), my starter switch reads at odd times. and a buncha other cool stuff.

The flood kill is great!
The fcd is great!
The fuel settings are good (wished they went just a tad lower rmp wise)
and EVENTUALLY the timing will be fantastic.

Thanks

Make An S5 Version Already!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sooooooooo.........Augiedoggie or other RTEK2.0 owner, I notice the afm air temp reads 45degrees (C* I assume) when driving to work. That seems high unless it's heat soak off the body of the afm. So I'm asking you what you read after driving the car for a few miles. It's around 80F air temp today in the big city.

Also the TPS reads 20 percent at idle. Well, I guess 1vdc is 20% of five vdc. That would explain that. It might be a better situation if the 1vdc could have been converted to ZERO percent. Not a biggie if you know the tps should read 1vdc at idle and the voltage range of the tps is 0-5vdc.

It would have been better if the temperatures were all in F* instead of C*. I believe there will be more USA buying the product than *others*.

If someone is thinking about buying a SAFC, I'd say pay the few bucks more for a RTEK2.0. Hands down a better deal.

I'll post some numbers up after I get back from FL in a week and get it installed. I want to compare some of my numbers against what others are pulling also.

what about the fuel map..doesnt it go to only like 15 points above and below stock?? im not positive of that number as im going off of memory...is this enough?? you could prob. switch it to 550/550 and adjust this way if it isnt but i am curious??

I don't mind celcius if you know where your temps are supposed to be. The first time reading my microtech sucked but after I relized they where supposed to be within this and this degree C*it makes it much easier. Plus on my elcheapo 60 dollar cell phone there was a c* to f* converter :D

We will be putting the option to choose the units in the next release as well as user configurable scaling for the analog input so it will display usable numbers instead of 0-255.

I'm still having that weird voltage problem with my o2 sensor. I bypassed the stock wiring and hooked my O2 sensor right into the ECU (conector 2d) so i know that it isnt a short.

The Rtek still reads 3.3 or so volts after warm up. When i check the voltage at the point where i conected the o2 wire to the ECU wire it reads about .5-.6 volts which is where it should be.

So can any of you new Rtek guys check your o2 voltage for me?

Im going to call Digital Tuning on Monday, unless turboo2ltr is reading this, and see if they can figure it out.

The O2 sensor input has an amplifier in the ECU which mults by 5.
So the 3.3v or so is normal (0.5-0.6 x 5). I've been running on the
WBO2 for so long, I haven't looked at this input for a long time. Its
of course obvious now that the display should remove this internal
scaling. It will be in the next update of the pocketLogger SW (which
will also add ATP scaling and configurable units (metric/imperial).

-Henrik

I already wrote them Friday. When I saw figures above one volt, like 2 to 3vdc and everything inbetween, you could tell there was something amiss. I could look at the other readings, like the injector pulse width, water temp etc and they were well within reason. Just the O2 waaaay off scale.

Thanks HENRIK for the response and Mike M.

AND I figured out why AOL folk don't get the Attachments mentioned in the earlier posts on this thread. If you don't have the right AOL service (more money), then you can't send or recieve attachments in your AOL mail. Duh! Gotta get rid of AOL........someday.

Also, I got a message from Mike M that they will be sending a updated programm in the next day or so to remedy this O2 glitch.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=517506

Got the new software today and that solved that problem. O2 is reading fine. The metric/iperial setting is nice. The AFR setting for the ATP is GREAT!!!!!! makes life very very easy.

Thanks for the quick update.

Hey guys, I posted this on TeamFC yesterday, but I thought I'd post it here too before making a new thread.

"I'm in a bit of a dilemma right now with trying to finish my car. I had been spending nearly all of my money on it, but recently other interests have been consuming more and more of my funds. My previous plans were to run a "mild" half-bridge motor with a Microtech LT8S. I already had basically all of the parts, including the ECU, but due to a lack of funds I was forced to sell it. I also already have my irons done, and I've spent so much time getting them perfect that I'd hate to sell them and have to spend more time doing a streetport on another set of irons.

I've reaquired a stock ECU and all that junk, and I was planning on doing some street port irons for it until I realized that the Rtek 2.0 is finally out. For the details of the system, check http://www.pocketlogger.com/?pid=rtek7v2deth . I realize that the system wont be as good for the half bridge as the microtech would have been, but for the price, it seems like it could be plenty capable. The AFM is an obvious drawback. The 10x10 fuel map certainly seems to be a minor downfall, but from what I've gathered reading around this forum, it seems that timing control is the bigger concern when tuning a half BP. The 2.0 has two 19x20 maps for ignition correction, which to my knowledge, is even more than the microtech.

I do plan on going to a full stand alone as soon as I can afford it. For now I am just curious whether this system could handle a reasonable amount of power with the quirks of a half-bridge motor. I'd really like to forego the trouble of spending loads of time on new ports. Thanks in advance for any input."

wow...i was really waiting for the plug n' play megasquirt the guys here on the forum were working on....but, patience is a virtue...that I don't claim to have....and this new rtek is sounding better, the more I read....I may very well be picking one of these up very soon.

nevermind, posted in the ms section