Getting 2.1 for my 10th AE
 

My car has been dyno'ed at 200 rwhp and 189 ft/lbs with stock turbo@ 10psi, stock 550's, FD fuel pump, k/n intake, 3" custom TID, 2.5" down pipe, Hiflow cat, RB cat back, air to water intercooler, and stock ECU. With the Rtec 2.1 installed with 4 720's and a BNR stage 2 turbo upgrade at 10 psi, will my car be safe and what HP do ya'll think I might achive?

I'm going to say at 10psi it should net you atleast +30 hp. But be sure to follow up once you've upgraded, and take some vids/pics too...

Good luck!

I was hoping for more, what would be the limit of the 720's? How much psi? My goal is 300hp max, I would be happy with 280. Give me a quick estimate. Thanks

right from the horses mouth, bnrsupercars.com

I'm no expert. And I was just throwing it out there...

"We have customers that have been very pleased with the performance of the BNR Stage 2. One of which made 332 RWHP at 14 psi, and the other running an ET of 12.3 at 114 mph in total street trim. The turbo responds like the BNR Stage 1, but has the extra edge of reliability at higher boost levels and also the extra volume of air with the larger compressor housing. This turbocharger upgrade is bolt up and no fabrication is required." From BNR

So I'd expect you to see a healthy gain... more than 30hp. Just get your goodies on there, get it tuned and spin the rollers... Good luck!

I'll keep ya'll updated. Thanks for the replys.

nice intercooler by the way, mo4e details?

Look at it this way, the 720s should be just fine, if not just upgrade again. Lots of threads about using injectors over 720s. My set up is very close to yours, but no injection, and my afrs where running just fine at 10psi. I'm running less now as the waste gate in the stage 2 cuts down on the boost creep. But seat of the pants says its about the same, or a little bit quicker. Still good AFRs

I should be getting it this week. 720's on order. I will install it and set to 550's and connect and set up wideband. When I get the 720's, I will set for 720's. Once I feel like the 7 is running good with the 720's, I will order the turbo. Then the fun begins. Will I have to do any tuning with running the stock 550 or the 720's once setup on the injector funtion?

Rtec 2/1 is installed and running. The first thing I noticed was that when I started my 7 it didnt rev up to 3000rpms. Sweet. I cant stand using the PDA, I guess I'll get used to it. I never had to use one before.

Wow, I finally installed new turbo and other things. BNR stage 3, 4 720's, Aeronotive FPR, and all smog removed. I started it up today for first time and all looks good, except a small vac leak. I need a fuel map to load on my Rtek 2.1, can anyone post a fuel map for 4 720's? I was just going to add 2% for every psi starting at 1psi up to 14 psi. Here is new pic, all intake is ceramachromed and I now have water injection 150psi M5 starts at 5psi of boost.

Set the injectors to 720s in the Rtek, turn down the boost, and leave the map zeroed. If you are running OK, start turning up the boost until you see a problem. THEN start adjusting the map. Starting with a map for someone else's car is just making more work for yourself.

I, too, just got my 2.1. I am also having my engine rebuilt now, too, but before it was removed, I installed my Rteck equipped ECU and initialized it so that when the engine gets back it will start right up.

I have and old school HKS Sport turbo which is a T04e, and FMIC. I also run full CA smog equipment. I was running 10-13lbs of boost with 6 550cc injectors (HKS AI controling 2 of them). With my, Rtek I have ditched that setup and am now going to use 720/1000 injectors with the new engine. The new engine will also have a mild street port and S5 T2 rotors(9.0 to 1 cr).

I plan to run the stock map and adjust as needed. I have copied a few fuel and timing maps from this board to use as reference, but turbiltr is right, start with the 0ed out maps and low boost and keep an eye on your AFR meter and tune up.

Right now I an running on wastegate set to 11psi. You all want me to boost to 11 psi on a stage 3 with basically 4 550's? I just wanted the map for reference. All the maps I have seen are for mismatched pairs ex:550/1000, 720/1000. Im looking for a basic fuel map for 4 720's. Thanks guys.

You said you have 720s. I would never run a stage 3 on 550s.

Have you read the manual? There are presets for 720s. You just check the 720/720 box. I'd turn the boost down to 9 to start. You don't need a map. Start with a zero map.

Seems you don't understand that the Rtek uses a fuel *correction* map. i.e. zeroed out *IS* the basic map. Set the 720 checkbox and you have a basic map for 720x4

From my understanding running the 720's basic map takes away 25% fuel from the 720's making them act like 550's. OK

Yes, because the bigger turbo doesn't change the amount of fuel you need down low. So it automatically leans them out. The difference is when the you need the fuel and the 550s would be maxed out, you still have more "headroom" and can continue increasing the fuel delivery all the way up to the 720.

So I gave the 7 a test drive yesterday and found some issues. First of all I will tell you all what has been done. The car ran great before I upgraded the turbo to a bnr stage 3, 4 720 injectors, FPR, emission removal, all new gaskets and vac lines. I kept the BAC valve. The car starts fine, once warmed up idle dropped down to 630rpm, normally its at 750rpm.The vacuum is at 10-11 inches, it was at 16inhes before upgrade. When I go into boost it onle gets up to 6psi, the wastegate is set to 12psi. Ive sparyed carb cleaner around the vac ports and all gaskets but can seen to find a vac leak. I have not touched the TB adjustments or the cas, I just set the rtek to 720's and lowered the staging to 3500rpm. Any ideas?

Did you complete the startup procedure as outlined in the manual?

Yes, I set ecu to 720 mode, set ATP to 500 ft, set VR for wide band, and set staging. Saved, named and loaded.

Did I miss something?

If you still have your ATP sensor, and using the VR for the wideband, there is no need to set the altitude, just uncheck the box so the car will adjust with altitude automatically.

Other than that, I can't really help you. The rtek isn't going to keep your car from boosting. Sounds like a leak to me. Or improperly routed vacuum lines.

The Rtek is good, I think Im fighting a boost/vac leak and bad connection to the water sensor. No ATP sensor. Thanks ALL. I will give update when finished tuning.

Your setup is almost identical to what I'll be running at the end of this season/beginning of next season. If you list out all of the issues/hiccups you run into it'd be helpful for sure. Good luck!

Sure I will. List keeps growing.