Who’s running a automatic?

So I got my flame suit on as this goes against my morals but honestly if we’re looking at consistency and reliability isn’t a th350/400 the way to go? I mean the piston fella’s are running into the 6’s on them without blinking a eye, and in the 2-3k price range I don’t see how it’s a bad thing.
SO with all that BS out the way who’s running one, What you running? I see the FB performance guys have more options than I can shake a stick at, see that CK did one, seems like all I need is the 20B auto bell housing and im home free. My local fab guy told me 25-2700 from atoz for a th400 and the Lakewood guys have a SFI bellhousing for the 13b to ford AOD trans?
http://www.fbperformance.com/
www.ckperformance.com

I dont have the disposable income some of my friends on here have so spending 4-6k on a clutchless is just not a option LOL love u guys

 

a friend of mine is running automatic and is running 5.8 on the 1/8 @120 and he is using a c-4 transmision...so with a c-4 you should be alright......

 

there a couple fast rotary in australia with automatics

 

There's a guy by me that runs a C4. Goes high 5s in the 1/8th.

 

Northern caribean makes a kit. I have considered this for years. What you run into is building a motor balanced for this combo and finding a stall setup to work right. The stall has been what kept me from doing this. Getting the car consistent of the line is the ticket. Maybe a few on here running this will chime in. Can't imagine street driving can be too fun.

 

c4 mate, its the go or the rota block, or there is a few guys in australia who make billet parts for the jatco auto, at least you could bolt it up with no adapters then, auto isnt the problem, its all in the stall converter IMOP

 

But with a good dyno chart can't they make a built to spec converter? My fd will never see a street again so a auto w/trans brake seems like a cheap option to hold up to my new found power. Keep the replies coming, i think I'm jumping it!!

 

Ran 8.0's about 10 years ago with a turbo 350 and a trick 8" convertor. Mike Lowe ran 7.5 with a power glide about 5 years ago. Dont rule out some of the electronically controlled automatics. With the avialability of stand alone electronic transmission controllers u can do some cool stuff.

Usually only take about two tries to get the convertor right. First try will be with a dyno sheet. Then install the convertor and use your data aquisition to calculate your torque convertor efficency then send convertor back for the necesary small tweeks and bam your done!

 

converters are a ******* of a thing, you can go off data an charts , but when it comes to it at the track it ***** you over, so just be prepared to spend plenty of money on just the converter, sometimes more than the box in the end, with all the removal and re install included .
If in doubt just smash some nos at it on the line , but that's the poor mans way of making a converter work , but what ever gets the job done i suppose .

dont be deterred from the auto , its just a auto with a rota isnt the norm, so you will be spending the coin again just to get constancy .

 

Then you have to just consider the clutch less.

Or

Transbrake, built c4, stall conv. , cooler, lines, Etc


Keep the info coming guys!

 

I have been on the fence about using an auto as well,the converter is $1000-1200,i have a friend that does auto's for a living so building a full tilt race tranny will be $1500,but i want to drive it on the street.using a high stall prevents that.aslo like to bang gears and a friend out in hawaii went into the nines on a stock FD 5-spd.i guess in the end you have to decide what the main focus of the car is.

 

It is tempting to switch over to an auto when some of the strongest competition in the FIP IFO class are autos. I'll stick to my stock tranny as long as I can.

 

For a pure dragsetup I don’t think I could touch a clutchless for the same dollar, and making 7-800 hp the stock tranny has a death sentence, Not if, When…..
I’m still not seeing how to get it done with a 3 speed. I mean even shifting @ 9500 rpm, the rpm drop from 2.52 to 1.52 to 1.0 will suck on the 1-2 *****, i mean were talking falling south of 6k. or even 2.4 to 1.47 Am I just missing something? I mean sure its still making power, but not an ideal gear ratio…. The search continues

 

jump on the aussie rotary forums and email some shops over here, Al's glides do alot of c4/rotary setups GZM/KEAS do all the 3N71 JATCO parts. The info is there if you know where to look, no need to do things twice.

DOMINELLO is a guy over here who has built plenty of converters for rotors. will set you up with a stall to suit your application if you cant find anyone in the US

GAS isnt a poormans way of getting up on stall beefie, if you do it properly is the rich mans way, believe me! it means i was able to tighten my converter up and build up 20psi by 4krpm in a couple secconds. more efficient, quicker to stage. and because mine is all window switch foot control you just hold it flat on the foot brake and fry em

best bet is to build a C4, more available parts and options. but dont be expecting a COMPLETE auto setup for be that much cheaper than a clutch less. only advantage is, its semi-streetable

 

LEN!!! I have all the adaptors for the th350 and just installed and set the nitrous with the transbrake in mine.Give me a call so I can show you the setup....Check these out,th350 no nitrous http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2LlowdA9mP0 and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PIIs_xBjnp8

 

I'll call u tomorrow Jim, we both know I plan to run faster then 9.20

 

I would rather save my money up and get a used clutchless transmission. You should be able to get a used clutchless for a decent price. By the time you end up dicking around with stall converters and this and that you're going to be around the same price. Plus kiss heads up racing good bye if you run an auto. With the lack of torque and high power curve it takes forever to come up on the converter with a rotary. Notice in every rotary automatic video they are the last one's to leave the line. Now if it is a street car, then I would consider one but for a full out drag car- clutchless. That's my .02

 

Nitrous can fix that!

 

Keep adding things up to make the auto work. Maybe don't be a baller like jay and just look towards the gforce. You are not going to have much of a street car with that large of a converter so why would you want an auto over a clutch less?

 

Was honestly looking at it just in a cost factor, I can pickup a c4/th350 for like 200$ and then get it "built" for like 1500, I wasnt thinking that a converter was gonna be 1k, but even then 2500 for a bulit proof trans... like i said i havent seen a clutchless south of 5k, and since ill never drive on the street, a 2500$ trans (what i was orig thinking) seemed to be pretty sweet

nothing more than being cheap

 

I am with you on that but then the getting off the line becomes a factor, some have been able to make it work on just the tune with timing, others nos. Just seems the clutch less route would be easier and may cost 1-2k more but they work and resale value will be better. Both are gonna suck for any street use. That's why I ended up going the route I did with the built liberty setup. Can still street drive just fine, but you will leave .6 or more in the 1/4.

If I were building an all out drag car a clutch less liberty would be the route I would go. $$$$. No looking back!

 

After talking with Jim @ JPR yesterday I feel much more reassured this is the route for me. His conversations w/dee and the th350 he has in his drag car and the essential testbed paving the way is going to be a big help. Granite I’m not spending a penny till I see his setup, but if theres no lag getting it up on the brake…why not
Lol I just have to laugh how we toss around figures like a extra 1-2 k, since my race $ comes from side work, 1-2 k takes a while to stack up.

 

If you need anywork done by Freddy Brown they are right down the block from me. A few of my friends know them well. They have done a few rotary auto's for some NY guys, turned out well from what I heard but they are not cheap either.

A used clutchless tranny from GFORCE is $5000-$5500, a new one is $6500, a good clutch is another $1400-$2000, so that route adds up fast.
Seems like a lot of rotaries are making great power and motors are holding up well, the tranny became the next weakest link and it's good to see everyone trying different things.

2012 is going to be fun in the NE

 

I have a C4 trans with a low first and second gear,modified 4 plant 125 gm gear set,Neal chance 7000 stall converter,I drive my rx2 on the street all the time,best sixty so far is a 1.24,I have never had a overheating problem with the trans,it's a PA trans,works very well,first gear is a 2.94 and second is a 1.61 if I remember right,3.50 gear in the rear end,call if you want more info on my set up cris at 951-850-1440 I'm in riverside California.U-Jay is going to post a race I had thanksgiving night,I dove it there made the pass drove it home,it was a 100+ mile trip,True 9 second street driven rotary powered car,it's only on a 17-18 pound tune up right now,still in the 9's with that

 

Your car is awesome!