What clutch are you using?
 

So I have been thru some clutch units lately and want to find what others that drag race use. So if you are making decent power levels and launch it like a monster (high rpm's) let me here what you are using.

So far I have been thru:

ACT steet disk (lasted a long time on stock twins and numours drag passes)
SPEC stage 3+ (Just plain ..............CRAP!!!!!!!)
ACT 6 Puck (got 3-4k miles on the street and 20 or so passes on it but sliping now)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...1%7C240%3A1318

Past a certain point you just have to spend the money!
I bought my hks twin for $800.00 and it great.:)

I here ya Busted.... Have you ever heard of a sintered iron disk? I was curious about that one. I have another 6 puck I am going to put in and hope I can get 20-30 passes on it. I will just limit the street use but I need to know what next.

F.. Exedy.. That shit sucks...

Enzo dont hold back tell us how you feel about exedy!

Im running the hks and like it pretty good but i posted the exedy becouse it was there, if you have a recomendation im sure he would like to know!

Thanks enzo.:)

I have heard of the iron disk but have no experience.

ok... so what you like?

Twin disc Tilton. It will be the last clutch you will ever buy!

Sounds interesting. Is there a certain combo or disks to use?

stock na clutch on turbo motor.. ill be running a ogura twin disc once i complete the swap. hopefully it works good.

i loooove my os giken twin disk

I'm running a stock NA clutch too. Its from a 86-88 FC.

Can you guys give me more info on this one. How long do they last? What HP level ?

Also were and how much are the Tilton ones?

I have about $800 in my Tilton. IIRC the breakaway torque on mine was 900 ft-lb so it will definitely hold! I bought a flywheel $500, a used clutch off eBay $200, and had the hubs replaced $100. If your interested i have an extra flywheel i will sell.

Ok, If I can source the other parts. Will this unit be ok on a stock tranny? I know some disk really are meant to be used with a g-force type tranny.

triple OS GIKEN disk flywheel setup with the yellow anodized billet cover(with the anodized cover you get 50 more horses)The kit comes with a adjustable slave cilinder,OS GIKEN throw out bearing(cant use the stock one)and if want to spend a little more order the master cilinder 2.

Any truly heavy duty clutch coupled with a high HP rotary and stock tranny are going to lead to disaster. It might be a better route to have a clutch that slips a little off the line and needs to be replaced often rather than one that really shocks the driveline. Another solution would be a orifice that goes inline on the slave line to soften the engagement, but then again the wear on the clutch will also go up. With the Tilton you can get different pressure plate springs to enable it to "slip" a little on the launch but sintered discs don't respond well to slippage. No matter what with a stock transmission it's going to be a balancing act. Ask Lee (tearbo2) he will tell you it's not that easy :) How much power are you making? What RPM are you launching at?

Thats kind of what I have been told from the shops I have spoken with. The car made 617 on 23-24psi. I have been launching as low as 7700 but closer to 8300. 1.56 60's with no 2 step. When I pull it apart and put in another disk I am going to try more tire presure. Maybe I am hooking too much and need a little spin. Been running 11.5psi then taking down to 10 thinking it was slight tire spin rather than clutch sliping. The video is in my sig with the sliping clutch. Also sounds like 4 gears but I had the rev limit set to 9k and hit it right out of the hole.

thanks for the info! I will research that one also..

There are also a few other tricks you can use. A lighter flywheel will ease the stress on everything but if you go too light you may have a problem with bogging. Depending on what ECM you are running you might be able to do boost by gear and come out of the hole with a little less power and then pour it on in the rest of the gears. It's just like anything else on these cars, it all about finding a combination that works well together :icon_tup:

Thanks for the help! If I pull the clutch assembly out and its not to bad-reusable then I have no issue with putting in a new disk a couple times a year. Just wish they wouldnt have drilled my clutch cover for the balancing...

For drag racing, yes. But for everything else, they are pretty damn good.

-J

If the shop that balanced you assembly was smart they would have not balanced the pressure plate to the engine rather make sure it was balanced by itself (if that makes sense). As long as whatever pressure plate you use has a neutral balance than it should not effect the balance of the engine.

whats the normal area they drill when balancing? The guy I took it too is a rotary specific shop. But he weighed and balanced the rotors then had another shop do the entire spin balance..

I just bought a Spec clutch, their "Stage 5" specifically for drag racing. Says its rated to hold up to 598ft/lbs of Tq.

Best of luck to you. I will NEVER use there "CRAP" again. They are located 1.5hrs from me and pushed me on a stage 3+ that wouldnt hold. They did nothing for me but offered to rebuild the shitty package at my $$.. Long story. I confronted them at a drag event last year and gave them a ear full with about 20 potential customer's at the booth!

Hmmm...well honestly I wouldn't have gotten the stage 3 for what you're doing. I've had friends with the brand and didnt have a problem

Allen pretty much summed it up.. I've used triple carbon exedy's on a evo i've built and the clutch barely lasted 10 passes and some dyno pulls.. Can't hold much power at all.. Also when you buy exedy, Os Giken, and other jap clutches the replacement parts are just too expensive and hard to get...

I use a twin disc Quarter Master Rally clutch similar to Allen's Tilton. Replacements parts are cheap and i have different parts to choose from.. You'll need a custom flywheel that will except a 7.25 clutch..

I think for the 500~600hp range the ACT extreme 6 puck works great..
Just replace the disc whenever it starts to slip..

With the stock tranny, I used the Exedy Triple Disc (cintered iron disc and loved it. Now with the G-Force, Im back to the ACT 6puck w/ Extreme pressure plate. (Exedy wouldn't fit)

I have heard no issues with the stage 3 its the 3+ that sucks. I did the proper break in. It wouldnt be so bad if I didnt speak directly to the owner and have him refer me to use that unit that failed. I know products fail time to time.. But what lost me was the lack of customer service by not replacing the faulty unit but they rather used the easy out and said it was out of warranty time wise but agreed it had very little wear.

ran a act 6 puck unsprung in my old fd...... lasted 4 years while cutting 1.4's...... car was 2550 with me in it

i also have the same clutch in my 1st gen, hope it works

I guess all I can do is cross my fingers.

Best bang for the buck is a puck clutch disc. Works pretty good and are cheap. I'm using a 4puck unsprung in my duece and love it. When it wears out just throw another one in at 130.00 bucks and call it a day. There's not a clutch out there that's going to last a long time given that you are drag racing and launching at 7000 + rpm's. If you're not running 600+ hp then there is no need to drop down a shit load of cash on an expensive clutch. Especially if you are using the stock trans.

RPS custom unit 225mm double diaphram pressure plate with a solid 3 puck disk. clutch didnt slip but trannys broke. had a few clutches before the RPS but they all slipped above 600 rwhp

Thanks for all the info guys. I should have my new disk here anyday and will post up my results when I pull the old one out. If it is just a matter of replacing the disk a few times a year then I can deal with that for now. Thinking of ading a scattershield at the same time as those pics on the other thread scared me!

I use the OS Giken twin Plate with its own flywheel nice and easy on the old clutch leg, had it for three years, only just replaced the plates last month, did 50 odd passes and dyno sessions as well as driving on the roads

had no luck with ACT max extreme ,none whatsoever,someone recommend the clutch masters stage 5 ,is the clutch masters clutch and pressure plate a better unit than the ACT

wrong. its only $40 bucks to replace the pucks

The ACT 6puck w/ extreme pressure plate is rated at 600lbs of torque. Unless your spraying the hell out your motor, none of us is making more than that.

Well, it costs me $80. I guess I'm wrong too.:rolleyes:

I just paid 144 for a new 6 puck shipped 2 day. You guys talking about the same thing here????

My bad, didn't know the pucks were sold seperately. Cool

I actually had a clutch-shop rebuild my disk.
They literally replace the actual puck/buttons.

I also had them resurface the pressure plate and flywheel at the same time, so they knew how thick of pucks/buttons to use.

Rebuilt Disk $80
Resurfaced pressure plate $60
Resurfaced flywheel $35

It's usually cheaper but they were pretty burnt.:icon_no2:

i got buttons

LOL. I just got my 4puck re-pucked at Action Clutch in East Los.

what was the shops name?

pic of my old SPEC stage 3+ disk and what it did to my flywheel. There were no (ZERO) drag passes on this disk. Only 700-1000+ street miles then hit the dyno. Disk started to slip around 500rwhp.

Fort Wayne Clutch
(260)482-8637

Well I installed my SPEC clutch...it is like a single plate disc design.....if that makes sense. Looks pretty beefy. It is carbon metallic, wish me luck