Getting in the 10's
 

What does it really take. I'm looking for some solid answers here. Obviously its attainable through full race slicks and a gutted race interior with a little less power, but i'm talking about a street car. I have a 94 FD touring edition. Alot of upgrades to the car, but it isnt the right recipe yet, I need more power and possibly a different suspension setup. Anyway this is what I have.

I run about 13psi on 94 octane
pettit ecu upgrade
large m2 i/c
electric i/c fan
crane ignition with new wires
street port
R34 skyline fuel pump
tial blow offs
twin k&n filters
hks sequential boost controller
blitz turbo timer
greddy down pipe and full exhaust (no cat)
lightweight battery
lightweight pulley kit
stainless ic piping, greddy elbow to throttle body
silicon vacuum hose upgrade
kaaz 4.33 lsd
b&m shift kit
eibach springs
nitto 555R 255's in the rear

Please list off what you feel is the next best upgrade for me. I have heard high 400's WHP will do it, but with what suspension and tires. I am planning on a bigger rad, medium sized single turbo ( a spec 500 R), with a power fc, and a large front mount. What tire sizes are you guys pushing into the 10's with? I don't want to get rid of my a/c and I would like to run pump gas the majority of the time. Oh, and also im at about 2500 ft above sea level, how bad is this gonna affect me. Any and all info will help

About 480 h/p stiff motor trannie and diff set up. Stock suspension, 10.50 26 et streets on stock wheels. 2740 lb touring with a/c, steering, cruse , and everything else. And most important someone who knows how to get the most out of the car, not over driveing or underdriving. If you cant get 1.50 60 ft times then you will have to have big hp and higher trap speeds to pull into the 10,s.

225/50/16 Hoosier drag radials are good light weight tires that I use, they don't have the larger tire diameter like the 26" ET streets, they slowed me down a lot when I had those. Stock turbos with everything else to run 17-18psi I can get a 1.58 best 60' time and 11.42 @ 122 best . I want to reach the 10's but I'm about out of upgrades to make it any faster with the stock twins, I think I can get down to 11.2 when it's not a hot summer night with current setup, try to get better 60' time too.

what it takes is to move to puerto rico and havea big rotary shop build u a motor. :)

add a 50 shot :D but seriously..... add a 50 shot hahaha.

nah, since everyone is afraid of nitrous, just kick the twins to the curb and step up. your upgrade plans will be enough, but will your driving? ;)

people have dipped in the 10's with around 400rwhp... having 480 - 500hp makes it that much easier but it's not neccessary.

472hp and I haven't did it yet! I'm close (11.2) but I am also 5280 ft above sea level so it makes it much harder!

10's in a street RX7 is easy.............

9's on the other hand....... :(

Street Car....you'd know everything about those wouldn't you :D

Was that 472 h/p dinoed at that altitude? And 400 h/p in 2700 lb car 10's i doubt it, but less weight and sure!

yes 472 is corrected at 5280ft.......It's a whole different world up here where you can't breathe!

Man, I know........... I went skiing in Silverthorne awhile back and I thought I was going to have a heart attack. I could bare walk to the bathroom without losing my breath.............. and hitting the bottle, forget about it ! :shocking: :rlaugh:

But at least you can get drunk easy up here! I can't go to sea level and drink though! It takes forever to get drunk and too much money!

I lived there in 1979 / 1980 it was a great place to live then, after your skin quit crawling and you got your lungs built up. It would seem to me if you dino 472 h/p at that altitude you should have a 10 in there with a good run!

What is your guys take on the best intercooler configuration while retaining a/c. Is v-mount still possible, or does everyone go front mount.

It seems like someone would have to have a trap speed of at least 126 to get into the 10's. What hp were you at until you broke into the 10's? Maybe I'm not shifting fast enough? I could probably shave a little off my 60 ft but probably not much.

I went 127 mph with 1.52 60 ft so if you lower the 60 the mile per hour might not need be as high, or if the 60 is slower the trap would need to be higher. But not everything is always the same. But i bet with your h/p if you lower the 60 ft its your best bet to hit 10's.

Back in the day, I went 10.78@128mph on a stock reman, stock ignition, stock primary inj., 1600 sec, small single turbo at about 24psi.

I agree.....I pulled a 1.55 and with more hp now, I should be able to get a 1.4 something, but I'm afraid to lower the tire pressure too much in order to not break another Inner CV stub.


I think the key for me is to figure out how to get more boost. Once we got to 21.5lbs of boost....the turbo acted like it was done. Anyone know what a GT35/40 turbo whould be good up too? What's it's effieciency range? Anyone know why A-spec tuning disconninued this turbo?

I also have stock ignition with only NGK 9's all the way around but I'm fowling plugs with only 4 runs and about a 100 miles. What should I get? I've heard some say to stay away from the HKS twin power and go MSD......what ign do you guys run?

I run the twin power and its fine so far. I also forgot the 472 hp is a corrected number so you dont know the real hp at your altitude. And i imagine the 35 is running out of steam! The air is alot thinner up there. And your plugs should not foul that easy what are your a/f ratios?

Sorry to be a dick...but...much larger turbo backed with a "tuned" bridgeport is only running you .74 seconds quicker? Why? Too much wheelspin?

Trust me, nobody is more fustrated than me, but driving a 450hp car and driving a 735hp car are different worlds. You run into a new world of problems including major traction issues and launching the car entirely.

Get a ign. amp like a Jacobs (what I have, with a FC leading coil), and racing NGK spark plugs or the BR10EIX (I just put those in and like them best), and should see a big improvement at high boost/high rpms, I did, helped alot, like 2 or 3 tenths of a sec. if I remember correctly.

I hit 10's with only 428RWHP.

10.9@128mph

MichaelB145, I'm curious what is your best trap speed? I wouldn't be suprised if you ran a 10.9 with a better ign. setup with a 1.5 60ft, and super fast shifting of course

Nice, 60' and 1/8 numbers?

My A/F ratios hold pretty steady at 11.1, I was afraid my 35/40 was running out of steam, but others tell me no way it could be since it should push 26lbs. Who knows since not to many people have to deal with this high altitude shit!

My trap speeds with current setup is 123mph. I have to put in brand new plugs (9's all the way around) to run that. But it feels very good....no break up at all. Then you can tell after about 8 runs or so, it starts to break up. I read somewhere today that 9's all the way around will only be good to 400hp! Is that true.....But in another thread, someone said 10.5's were a waste? I don't want to keep buying 10.5's if I have to keep replacing them. 9's are cheap!

I think you should be running at least 10s with the high boost levels, and better ignition setup will help I'm sure, it should run smoother than it does now with the new 9's. Try the BR10EIXs, they not expensive really, like same as the factory 9s, and use a bench grinder to make a socket thin enough to install them. I definately think my car runs better with those plugs compared to the 9s I just took out, and it ran a lot better after the Jacobs ignition and FC coil, mine was breaking up a good bit before those parts.

Thanks for the info....I thought all 10's would run me $30 each! Do you run them in the trailing too since they are not used as much?

Above I meant 10s in spark plugs, like the BR10EIX.

I use to run the 11.5 racing $30 plugs. They don't work any better than the BR10EIXs, I got them from a Advance auto parts for like $7 each

Just the leading, trailings are the stock 9s, that's all they need

1.78 60'
7.0@101mph


Here is a video with the larger motor making 510RWhp, I know it is not a rotary but it gives you a idea of HP needed for 10's. The run below was run on 275 Nitto NT01 tires--Road race tires. I was road racing the day before.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/f...3b002d54c5.htm

Advanced Autoparts has NGK b10egv plugs for $4 each! I bought like 12 of them!

Cool, let us know how you like them once installed. I chose the EIX version of that plug, they were like $7 or $8 I think.

Whats the difference? Brian, the owner of BNR turbos told me to go with that plug.

BR10EIX is the newer iridium, and they are a "R", resistor plug which many people recommend because of the electronics in the car, read this - http://sparkplugs.com/glossary.asp?k...r&manID=0&pt=1. They sound better, haha, read below:

NGK iridium plugs represent the ultimate evolution of spark plug technology and performance. The iridium center electrode is both stronger and harder than platinum. This allows NGK engineers to design an ultra-fine (0.6mm)center electrode reducing the voltage requirement for spark. This allows for a brighter, stronger spark from your existing ignition system. The ground electrode has a tapered cut at the firing end which reduces quenching for better flame core growth and increased ignitability. The combination of fine wire center electrode and tapered cut ground will increase performance, improve acceleration, and fuel efficiency.

NGK's EGV spark plugs are similar to their EV plugs, both have a fine wire (1.0mm) gold palladium center electrode for better ignitability, more power, and enhanced antifouling capabilities. However the EGV's offer reduced erosion characteristics (greater durability) due to a higher quality gold palladium blend . Traditional ground electrode. Maintains all the high quality construction features of NGK's traditional plugs.

http://sparkplugs.com/more_info.asp?AAIA=&pid=3452

It sounds like those plugs would be good for me since I will be running alcohol injection and it might help from quenching the motor. When it come to "durability", are they talking about less likely to fowl or against the elements? I'm replacing the plugs at least every month so not sure if that will matter. Do you just replace the leading?

Not sure about the durability question, yes I just use those for leading, and the stock 9s for trailing.

i am trying now to get in the 10's with stock twins like the guy did along time ago...its a challenge and i think only 1 or 2 has ever done it......the main problem i see or have is the trans.....can shift it hard or fast enough.....and they wont last( from my experience, been through 4)

I'm suprised to hear that because I haven't broken anything. stock tranny, diff, axles and motor. I shift it very hard and fast, like 100 times down the track. What's your best ET, trap speed and 60ft?

You can't tell my you have a stock diff in yours Tom? That will blow up! Everything else I think your alright.

Ha that's funny. Not only do I have the stock diff., I have never had a diff brace either! It hasn't blown up. Don't they blow up mostly from wheel hop?, I don't get any of that. But I just installed a banzai racing brace, it is very nice and fit great, I haven't driven the car yet with it on. Thanks.

There are a ton of reasons parts break or dont! The driver has the abilitty to save a lot of stress on the drive train. I am running 1.50's 60 ft on stock set up with t11 diff and braces witch means the axles sees all the power but i use the clutch to soften the shock. Some people can break anything. And some people can get more out of a car for no appearent reason.

But comeone, nobody(I guess almost nobody) gets 1.6 or better 60fts with a stock 3rd gen diff without breaking. TII diffs are much stronger

I am somebody that does get 1.58-1.7 60 fts, many many times, without breaking anything! I'm sure the solid diff. mounts, drag launch kit trailing arms, and new pillowball bushings help some too.

Don't drop the clutch!!:) Ease it out a little! You can still rip off the line, and not brake anything! If you have a good stage 3 or better clutch, it will last long time. Drop the clutch and you could wheel hop, spin the tires, or jump and bog if the revs are not high enough.

Well said Busted7.

If you aren't dropping the clutch at 8 grand, you aren't having any fun. :)

The advantage of the t11 diff as i see it is the clutches give a little slippage and reduce shock. Im not saying you dont know how to launch you may have had a part that was already twisted or cracked. Also i imagine the rear caster and camber may play apart in the angles that the axles and drive shaft see during launch witch may bind or stress at a bad angle. Im sure my day is coming i have replaced everything else but 8,000 is were its at. If things didnt break what would we bitch about and spend money we dont have on.

the problem i have with the tranny's is shifting them. Of all the cars i have raced my fd with anystock trans i have put in it will not shift worth a crap. I mean hold my foot on the floor and never lift...i have lost several races i wiuld have won but i had to wait for shifts. I have broke shifters and the plastic bushings trying to force them in gear with no luck. its either bitch shift or nothing at all. But i just about have this problem solved

i guess i will fix the trans(s) again and see if i can get there with them (pos) lol