4 Link is finished..........
 

just need a driveshaft..... then I'm driving it. I don't have time to mess with tubs right now

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Looks nice Eric. Now get that bitch tuned!!!

supposed to get it tuned june 6-7. it's only a stock s4 motor, so probably 350hp is all I'll get

looks very good :icon_tup::icon_tup::icon_tup:

looks great. absolutely perfect backspacing on the rear wheels too. one thing is bothering me tho. the rt rear tire needs to be mounted the other way arround.

That looks bad ass. It almost looks like the main bar in the back was meant to be with the curve turned upwards instead of down. Did you do all that work yourself?

Anthony

Yeah, I had a local guy mount them :wallbash:

Chassisworks told me to set it up with the bend at the bottom.

The only thing I didn't do was tig the 4 link brackets and shorten the rearend. I did everything else.

How much knowledge did you have about this stuff going into this project?

If you had to do it again, would you pay someone to do it?

No knowledge at all. I just did alot of reading, chassiworks and a few other companies have how to manuals on their websites.

A local shop (Jerry Bickel) quoted me $11,700 to do the job, so no I wouldn't have paid someone to do it. If I had to do it over again, I would have removed the stock frame rails and went aftermarket. It's just too much work getting those to work.

I'd like to see someone minitub a FD.

wow, amazinggggg work!

$11,700? I got mine but it is a ladder bar on my FB for $2500 w/8.8 reareand. The bad is that it toke the guy over 1 year to do it :( So you're running a Streetported T2 motor,6 1600cc injector,75mm turbo, and want to make 350rwhp at 6psi? Come on tell me what's your hp goal and I will tell you mine? :D

;)

That looks real good! Wondered why we haven't heard any progress reports from you in a while. Looks like you've been staying busy though!

Thats alot of work isn't it Eric! I know how you feel and im going to have to get Obama to give me some of you alls money so i can convert to turbo on my peice o crap!

Looking good though Eric. And if you were here id do your tubs.

Looks badd ass Eric :icon_tup:

$11k!! What did you guys expect?? It's Jerry Bickel god dam it :lol:

Some guys mount the crossmember facing up and others have it facing down.. No driveshaft loop?

Looks awesome Eric! Just please tell me your not going to Pa to get tuned.

just a side note incase anyone was considering doing this to their car....

There's no major price difference between a small tire back half like Eric's ride and a typical "race car" back half.
It's the same amount of work and parts used in both applications, so don't think it will be cheaper because you "only want a mini tub" :lol:

Looks good homie! I am liking it!

Nice job.
After accomplishing that, I imagine you are going to do your own cage work too?

Nice job Eric, badass... Man that is exactly what I want to do to my rx2.

Yes, 11K is what they quoted me. That's for the suspension and Tin work.

I have about 6K into mine and that's doing it myself. I could have had it finished alot sooner but I can only work on the car 1-2 days a week (Weather permitting).

It's a stock S4 block, it was sitting in someones shed for a few years.

You should post pictures of your setup.

Eventually.

With it sitting so low, I'm not sure if the driveshaft will clear the tunnel. Once I figure that out, I'll toss a loop in there.

Yeah, there's this old school guy. I think his name is Dave? He's got these new seals that won't break. I forgot the same, I think they begin with H or something.

I'd say that a minitub is more difficult. The stock frame rails aren't straight so it's going to make building tubs a nightmare.

The stock frame rails are alot lower, so if you want your car sitting low........ expect to do a C-Notch to the frame to clear the axle tubes. Goes on and on..

S4 stock block w/s475 turbo? If you ever need help with a T2 motor just let me know? My Fb is in KC right now and I should be on the dyno in Mid April, trying to get it done for IFO in KC on May3.

I'm still deciding on what to do. Put some thick cast S5 plates in my motor, buy a RE motor or buy a REW motor.

The first choice is alot cheaper. Hmm

Looks very mean! Why radials?

[QUOTE=Viking War Hammer;9084315]I'm still deciding on what to do. Put some thick cast S5 plates in my motor, buy a RE motor or buy a REW motor.




The S5 rear iron is still thin compare to the REW, you can dowel the S4 or S5 motor. The guy in KC that ran the 9.6x on the rx3 dowelled his motor, before he breaks rear iron every other week at the strip. I think the cheapest would be the rew motor since you won't have to worry the rear iron breaking.

I got all three REW plates (untouched), and a JW intake mani (brand new) I will sell you. $400.

Because I wanted something that will tread a little water. My old ET Streets were too scary to drive in the rain.

I hear you bro... I think anyone attemting this, should get a unwelded chassis kit and just replace everything. I saw someone doing a rear chassis a few years ago and it looked pretty straight forward.
He make sure the car was level on jack stands, then the other important part was making sure the frame rails are squared with the xmember. Locating the axle's center point in relation to the wheel arch was also simple.

I would like to attempt something like this one day, but I need someone by my side to coach me incase I screw up :lol:

Looks good Eric. Now after you get the engine running, you have to take it and dial the chassis in at the track/street- another adventure. :)

sounds to me that you r your worst enemy :lol::lol::lol: fag :lol::lol: btw do you still know that guy FRANKIE FEAR :lol::lol::lol:

Good deal, but not on my list of to do things right now. :)

That looks hawt.

Please tell me you have different rims for the front.

Keep up the good work, its looking awesome!

Nope, no different rims for the front. Just those enkies.

One day, I'll get some wheels for the front but those are on the bottom of my list.

I might paint them black this weekend?

Black might look better. I think they just look goofy with that offset compared to the sexual-ness of the rear rims.

it's settled then, I'm gonna throw some black on em tonight

Props man, I wish I had the knowledge and skills to build that kind of set-up. Looks great. Wouldn't be a bad idea to grab that REW setup, with a 475, it's only a matter of time before the boost lust leads to cracking that rear iron...

Eric, if you're tight on money right now, like me, and this is just my preference, I would throw some spare wheel skinnies on the front and paint them black. Sorry, but I'm going to be honest and tell you those enkies are butt ugly, especially with the wheels you have on the back.

Honestly, I'm not that worried about it right now. Money isn't the issue, finding the right wheel combo is my problem. I'm not sure if I want a one peice, two peice or spindle setup up front. My main concern right now is getting it on the dyno.

Oh, and I painted the wheels black tonight :)

BTW, anyone know what offset wheel fits a FB up front? 4 inch wide...

pics?

will get pictures today. I need a dang driveshaft. Got the seats in, brakes bled and everything. I want to go for a drive....

for what they are, better or no?

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Yeah, I like it a bit better....its tolerable now :)

Yeah, I only like it better because it makes it harder to see them.

I need to figure out what size wheels fit up front. Backspace etc. etc for a 15x4 wheel

Depends on the lug pattern you have up front... 4x110 or 4x114.3.
The 4x114.3 uses a 38mm offset and/or 4 1/2 inch backspace.
Not sure on the 4x110...

L8R

I'm looking at getting a set of Summit 15x4 wheels for the front of my FB. They have a 1.75" back spacing.
Summit part number is SUM-521-5465PS They're $85 each lol.