Looking for metric (80mm) silicone hoses and aluminum tubing parts to DIY an intake.

More specifically, a 22 degree coupler similar to this and some straight (aluminum ideally) pipe.

I can find only straight couplers like the GReddy ones.

Happy to order from Japan or anywhere else, but it's been difficult to find anything in metric sizes.

Backup plan: anyone try to fit a 3" coupler over an 80mm pipe?

 

I think https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/ has the parts you would need to build an intake. I'm not seeing 80mm aluminum pipe on their site, but they do have silicone reducers so you could transition from 80mm to 83mm (3.25") or 89mm (3.5"), and then use inch-sized aluminum piping and air filters which they also sell. I'm seeing mandrel-bent aluminum piping in 3.25" outer diameter, and bends of 15 or 20 or 35 degrees.
https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/p...ransition-hose
https://hpsperformanceproducts.com/p...ke-intercooler

 

Silicone is somewhat forgiving. A +/-3mm difference won't matter at these sizes. For vacuum and coolant lines that's huge but not so much for the bugger stuff for whatever reason. The clamp you're using will be more important.

 

Thanks for the tips; I was indeed looking at HPS -- they actually do have the correct elbow and tubing, but after some more research I found this site:

https://www.harfington.com/products/...45415397228793
https://www.harfington.com/products/...46574776320249

Way cheaper, free shipping, and they have the tubing in the size I want without the beads.

Will let you all know if it ends up being a scam or crappy

 

I take it this might be to mate to an unmodified Greddy elbow?

If what they've specced there is accurate and you're attempting to weld 1mm, it's going to be a lot more finnicky on technique than the usual 1.6, steel and stainless is horrible enough at that wall.......better start practicing welding soft drink cans together tout suite!

They don't say what grade the material is, assuming it is T6, it's still going to be very soft with haz every 100mm and if doing a weld bead rather than roll one at the ends, hmmm.......depending on your clamp type, you might end up with a nice egg shaped tube - and continual boost leaks

 

No I am not welding anything.

This car came with nothing but a velocity stack on the turbo and that honestly terrifies me. Not even a mesh filter in front of the turbine -- which I immediately added until I could get a proper fix in.

I am adding a proper intake filter and these are the parts I need to fit a filter in the only place it will fit -- moving the AST over gives me just enough room.

Long term goal is clean up that IC piping. I don't know why there are so many bends in this.

 

^I suspect your bendy IC plumbing is because the IC core was possibly installed backwards? Normally on these V-mount installs, the IC inlet/outlet openings face the engine, not the front bumper. Perhaps you can remove the IC, flip it around 180* so the inlet/outlet openings are now facing the motor and re-fabricate your IC piping to suit? Looking at the mounting brackets on each side of the IC core, it appears that they might still line up to allow the 180* flipped mounting, which is why I think the previous owner buggered up the IC install.

 

Funny enough that is exactly what I was thinking yesterday. Makes no sense for the piping to face this way.

I am looking to get some fabrication work done once my new exhaust is in, so I'm planning to redo the IC piping at that time. The fabricator can just make new pipes and mounts at the same time.

 

that actually looks like a Greddy front mount IC, that is installed as a V
the bracket in the front, i think is for the stock airbox

notice the brackets?

maybe plan B is to use it as a FMIC?
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That looks quite spot-on. It was suggested to me by the seller that it might be an FMIC.

Definitely an option, would have to also move the radiator and the A/C condenser -- a bit of a bigger job though.

Curious to see what the temps are when I get it tuned properly and will likely go from there.

The car did have a vented hood originally, so the setup might have been optimized for that. Might be less work to put one back on.

 

I was looking into something similar recently, and apparently you just insert a spring or something else inside of the same inner diameter as the silicone hose you want to bend and then just heat it and manipulate it into the shape you want: