JK40C/CD009 Transmission from 370Z on 13B
 

Hi everyone.

I have developed a transmission adapter for the 370Z 6 Speed MT transmission to bolt up to the 13B rear housing, and the assembly is now installed in a local time-attack vehicle that has undergone some serious upgrades in the drivetrain department as well as other areas. It will be going for testing in the following couple of weeks before the tracks close for the season.

The JK40C transmissions are relatively commonplace now. They are easy to locate, acquire, tear down, and inspect. They are extremely durable Warner style synchromesh transmissions that have beefy gears and have been good to some VQ35's turning 9000 RPM.

Here's a photo of the transmission mounted to the engine (or the engine mounted to the transmission, considering it's about 2 times the size :lol:)

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4da439068e.png

The way the starter mounts is important for not hitting the frame rail, but I will post photos once it is tested and running. So far we HAVE gotten the car to start and idle with no odd sounds coming from any of the modifications we've made to the drivetrain.

I am posting here because I couldn't find a drivetrain section, and I've seen people attempt the V160/161, Supra Getrag, Z32, and T56 transmission adapters, but no one stepped up to develop a 370z trans, and they are relatively stout when compared to what's already available. Perhaps even overkill for most.

If anyone has any questions, concerns, feedback; please post away. I'm looking to make this kit available in the near future.

The current list of mods that are required to get such an item running in a car with a rotary motor isn't extremely extensive. It's pretty standard for a foreign transmission to be installed on a completely different engine:

Parts that I've engineered/fabricated

1. flywheel spacer and lock-plate disc
2. 13B rear iron to 370z bell-housing adapter + custom flathead socket cap screws
3. 13B manual to 370z bell housing starter adapter/mount
4. 370Z throwout bearing spacer (recommended to upgrade throwout bearing)
5. Simple custom pilot bushing or modified nissan unit (very easy to modify)

Parts required from other sources

1. 13B clutch disc (splines need to be changed to nissan/370z splines)
2. Driveshaft (custom) with 350/370z front yoke & mazda differential companion flange

Some more details:

• Currently installed on previous record-holding time attack car
• All parts were FARO ARM plotted with extremely high accuracy.
• Starter requires very minor modification. It really takes about 5 minutes, and is better than buying a new starter.
• Shifter position is "tunable" to a degree. It can be moved about 4 to 5 inches forward of where the factory Nissan 370z Shifter lever cup is situated on the transmission.
• For the current installation, the factory shifter position is what the owner/driver of the car prefers, and we did not need to change its position. A car with factory seating position might need it moved forward.
• Transmission is about 11.5 inches wide - transmission tunnel may require some "cold working" with a calibrated smashometer or variable-angle swing-press.

That's all I got for now.
It's running. Will be tested very soon. And then more details to follow.


Mods, please let me know where to move this if it's in the wrong place / against the rules. Thought you rotary guys might want to know someone is working on a 6 speed conversion that isn't made of glass and isn't half the price of a key of booger sugar, that's all!

Very cool to see another option besides the t56. I'm assuming we're talking about mounting in a FD?

Have any pictures of the trans tunnel modifications needed to fit?
How much does it weigh in comparison to the FD unit?
How do the ratios compare to the FD trans?
How is the feel/smoothness of the trans?
Can the shifter be made to fit to the stock FD shifter opening without modifying that metal work?

assumption is wrong. it's mounted in an FC.

I will have to weigh the spare 370z box that I have when I get it back.


370Z 6sp Manual Ratios (same as late 350z and Nismo edition)
-- 1st: 3.794
-- 2nd: 2.324
-- 3rd: 1.624
-- 4th: 1.271
-- 5th: 1.000
-- 6th: 0.794
-- Reverse: 3.446
-- Final Drive: 3.692:1

These transmissions feel really smooth in comparison to old 80's transmissions- from which the FD trans is derived. The 350z/370z transmission is also a derivative of an older 80's trans- but with plenty of improvements in gear actuation, leverage on the forks, and engagement of the synchronizers. There are also many oiling improvements throughout the case.

You would have to drive a 370z if you'd like to compare. I can't say for you how it feels. Feel is subjective.

There was some required tapping with a hammer right near the butt end of the starter so that the solenoid would have enough room to clear the tunnel where it tapers inwards. It is slightly behind where the throttle pedal is, so it does not interfere with driver footing. I think the stock trans tunnel (on the FC, anyways) is too tight near where the middle starts to curve in, so it had to be split open up there. To be entirely honest, I wasn't there when the trans tunnel mods were made, so I'm not quite sure how much material was added/removed. I'll see if I can get a photo of that.

I don't know how this would fit in an FD chassis. I haven't worked on one. I don't come across them much.

Very cool. How much power is the time attack car making? Wondering if this would be a good solution for drift car.

The Time Attack car will be shooting for a reasonable 500. perhaps a little more. perhaps a little less. but that is the goal with a 13B Bridgey on drugs with a Comp CT4-6767 Turbo.

As for drift-car status, Any 350Z transmission that is marked as CD006 or later is suitable for smashing gears. In fact, the previous ones are notorious for 3rd gear synchro problems- but I have a friend who competes in a 350z drift car and has had not one issue with the 350z trans. It is an early trans too.

All the CD006 and later (JK40C is Considered CD009) are said to have the issue fixed, and the internal oil trough/baffle/slinger is much improved.

It is a stout transmission.

trying to post in this thread, but my posts are under review?

time attack car has yet to be dyno'd, but made 380 or so last time, and it has undergone big upgrades. shooting for 500-550 whp. would be a great trans for a drift car being that it's the later model JK40C/CD009 with the updates to them. Sound performance putting down 1250rwhp with multiple hard launch drag passes on these boxes.

I am curious to see how they handle high revs from a rotary motor in the 9000 rpm range, but there are vq35/37 hybridized motors that run close to that RPM and seem to handle the speed reasonably well.

this is great news! i've always thought the t-56 wasn't a great alternative for the rotary. this should be a great alternative, keep up the good work!

very interested in your setup. following :icon_tup:

I appreciate all the positive interest. The main reason why I haven't posted too many details are due to the final test that needs to be done.

Good news is, car moved under its own power and while the clutch engagement at low rpm is really "chattery", it's due to the pressure plate diaphragm weighing a ton, and not the kit construction. The car operated as it expected to. No harsh vibrations at low speed. No weird sounds.

Phase 1: Design - Completed
Phase 2: Implementation - Completed
Phase 3: Driving Test - Completed
Phase 4: Dyno / Agressive testing - Not Yet Completed.
Phase 5: Kit Pricing and Parts List - Not Yet Completed.

Dyno is all that's left (can't track test, as the season is over).

Also, I'm not too sure what the rules for selling/marketing parts are here, so I have refrained from producing any kit pricing as of yet or how to purchase it. Is there a code of ethics for that?

You can get listed as a vendor or open a group buy for a one time fee. It's a little sensitive, so PM a mod. You're on the right track. Best of luck. Excellent work.

I'm pretty intrigued by this. Thank you for posting and updating.

interested in trans tunnel modifications as i have a CD009 coming this week fro my build

Sorry for the long post ahead. Just want to add some info.

Keep in mind, it is a race car, so it wasn't done to keep any of the interior parts. The trans tunnel mods done on the time attack car using this setup are not the only way to go about modifying the tunnel. It looks pretty good and the transmission fits quite tight on the sides of the trans tunnel when tucked up under there, but the top of the tunnel was made flat to accommodate a new switch panel box / command center to operate the vehicle, so your own personal car's tunnel will look different when complete if you chose to do this modification.

The kit will not come with a transmission mount. Anyone who is capable of modifying the transmission tunnel can make a simple mount using the factory nissan bushing, and quite simply- I do not have access to FC or FD chassis cars that are close to stock to fabricate one that works. The owner of the car it is currently in chose to make a sturdy mount that ties into the frame rails and that was his decision. You will have to devise your own. It's a truly simple ordeal, either way. With the Nissan bushing it could work with just some 3/16 flat bar across the trans tunnel, and two ears pointing upward to put the through-bolt into the bushing. Or you could even buy the classic GM Transmission mount and use the flat-bar all the way across. It bolts up to the Z transmission fairly easily.

The area right beside the throttle pedal needed a brief 3 second meeting with a rubber mallet to allow the solenoid stud for the RX7 manual starter power wire to have ample room so that it does not arc to the chassis. There is still plenty of room between the pedal and the tunnel, and it does not intrude into any of the pedal arch area and fancy foot work is indeed possible. It's barely moved at all. I think you could drive with steel toed boots if you felt the need to. There is plenty of space after the required cold-working of that area.

The entire starter adapter and starter unit itself can be taken out of the car once the transmission is installed- which was very important to me when designing this kit. It is something that is necessary in the event of a starter failure or to diagnose clutch problems. The starter hole that needs to be cut out of the bell housing (very easy to do) also allows operators to inspect the throw-out bearing for fluid leaks- which is also a plus.

Due to the location of the starter in this kit, the CD009 or later (JK40C, JK40O) transmissions are the only tranmissions this works with as they do not have the clutch fork and slave cylinder on the outside of the trans- which is where the starter is. Those are the later transmissions from the HR 350z's and all 370z's. They can still be found for very low prices, barely used. And if you really want a new one from the dealership, they're roughly 40% of the price of a T56 Super Magnum. I am estimating that for the cost of a T56 Super Magnum alone (not including anything require to adapt and install it), you could have this Z transmission and adapter kit + your own custom driveshaft made- which is a huge plus as well and it is the reason for its existence as far as the time attack car goes.

VERY IMPORTANT: The motor can be removed and installed from over the rad support as most people usually do. I tend to prefer installing motors by removing the front sub-frame/engine cradle and raising/lowering the chassis onto the motor, but we opted to install it the conventional way to make sure it could be done- and it was done very easily.

I can get photos of the trans tunnel mods with the transmission IN the tunnel, but for most installations it will be up to the fabricator to make measurements and install.

I am trying to procure the fasteners required and all the hardware for a reasonable price and getting quotes for 5 - 10 sets of the machined items made as well. There are some uncommon fine-threaded fasteners that are necessary for proper alignment of the plate with the way it's designed, and I haven't found them for a decent price- but it's not a deal breaker. Still just shopping around to keep the kit cost lower.

A lift is being installed at the facility where the car currently resides, so once that is done I can get more photos. I will make some time to coordinate with my preferred machinist to see if I can get a quote for all the machined parts this week and perhaps visit the shop on the weekend to take interior shots of the tunnel.

Will try to update soon. If there is indeed enough serious interest, to lower the cost even further I would have to take some down-payments so that more kits can be produced to decrease overall cost for everyone, but I'm not thinking about that part right now and I want to get the important things sorted, like a high power dyno run at the very least.

The last thing I want to do is send everyone a bunk adapter kit and put 1 or even 10 cars out of commission.

IF THERE IS ANYTHING THAT I AM MISSING OR UNAWARE OF FOR FC/FD CHASSIS CARS THAT ARE COMMON MISTAKES FOR THESE TYPES OF ITEMS, PLEASE INFORM ME, I WOULD LIKE TO MAKE THIS KIT AS STRAIGHTFORWARD AS POSSIBLE WITH WHAT I HAVE ACCESS TO.

for those of you that are curious about fitment;

CD009 6 speed from a 2007 G35
Attachment 618561

compared to NA 13B 5 speed
Attachment 618562

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/z...pskyrkuyxd.jpg

in the tunnel, have to trim the bulges for the trans mount to allow it to sit all the way but that is typical in T56 swaps also http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/z...psdy7ogvzx.jpg

http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/z...pspmqsx8no.jpg

Attachment 618563

Attachment 618564

will most likely need to do alittle trimming here but i have to get the shortened housing (brings center of shifter to 32" from bell housing) and get it mounted to the 2J first before i worry about that
http://i842.photobucket.com/albums/z...psjy8fabol.jpg

Thanks for those dandoe.

Going by the burgundy 80's interior, am I correct in saying that's for an FC?

The front of the transmission sits a touch further back with the rotary installed, but it looks like the shift lever position is still quite comfortable with the modified extension housing and strike-rod linkage (which I have done on another car/swap that used this transmission, and it's fairly easy to do if you can weld aluminum).'

The facility with the Time Attack now has a hoist, so hopefully I can snag some more photos soon.

Yes, this is FC fitment. Also the trans will sit much further back when mounted to the engine this is just as far as it will go with the factory trans mount bulges in place. might fit if it was put into place from underneath the car but wouldnt pass those mounts when sliding the trans into the tunnel like i did.

Now that I recall, that is part of the reason why the car with the kit I put together had a mount fabricated that ties into the frame rails and holds the transmission up with two tabs in the center. The transmission is roughly 11.5" wide in that area, compared to the puny 8" wide factory trans casing.

We ended up putting the trans in from the top, which was as easy as any swap. It's best done with two people. One to guide the bottom of the trans the main seal protection cup slides against the ground. We just wrapped a shop-rag around it and once it was high enough, we put a short jack under it and rolled it back while lowering the engine at the same time to get the proper arch.

If removing the transmission mount bumps off the tunnel is all that's required aside from shortening the shifter linkage, that would be awesome.

I think that if I were to include a shifter shortening kit, it may drive the initial production costs way too far up for me to handle more than 1 order at a time. But we'll see soon enough. In a perfect world, the Z32 shifter would work- but it does not have a reverse lock-out function that is spring loaded like the Z33/34 transes do, and you can go from 5th to reverse quite easily without it.

I am also developing a shifter linkage that moves the entire unit FORWARD of the Z33/34 stock location/mount, but that is for another application and it's rather... involved. But it doesn't help any of the installs here unless maybe 4 rotor guys want to move the entire engine back a bit or something. I dunno.

In for updates and pics!!!

Where does the starter mount?

Are you adapting to the large diameter or small diameter flywheels? (Turbo / Non-turbo)

All you say is "13B'... is that like top mount starter, N/A starter, Turbo starter, or FD starter? They all mount differently.

The car is going to be dyno'd next Friday. I think it's ready for full power testing. I will get pictures of the setup and dyno results and we'll be looking out for any vibration or harmonics and all that stuff.

The starter mounts at the bottom driver (USDM) side of the RX7 trans bell housing, facing toward the front of the vehicle, as shown below. I've just been told it's an FC3S Turbo Trans. It came out of the Turbo FC3S that the CD009 trans is now installed into:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0fd27ce66d.jpg

That is a N/A trans. You can tell by the lack of a removable bellhousing and a lack of a bottom cover plate. Further, you can tell it is an FC trans by the four mounting bolts on a ~45 degree angle to horizontal.

So you're set up for the small diameter (non turbo) flywheel/starter and 225mm clutch? (This is increasingly relevant to my interests)

Peejay, the photo I posted was just off some website to show the starter location, not a photo of the actual transmission. I specifically said in post #3 (https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p.../) that is is for an FC. And in the post prior to your response- just above the photo, I specified that it was an FC3S Turbo Trans.

The car it came out of was equipped form factory as a Turbo II. It has a Turbo II flywheel (aftermarket, but shouldn't change anything), and an aftermarket clutch disc and pressure plate made for a Turbo II, but with the clutch disc splined 24T for Nissan transmissions (virtually all the same).

Now that I think of it (Being a Nissan/Datsun guy), it's possible to get away with buying a pressure plate for an RX7 Turbo II or using your current aftermarket one if you have a Turbo II kit, and using any 240mm Nissan 24T splined disc from the S130 280zx Turbo, Early (84-86) Z31 300ZX Turbo, or t he N/A Z32 300ZX (Non-Turbo), as they are all 240mm. I should have one laying around that I can verify this with, but I would need to locate another Turbo II pressure plate and flywheel to see if the clutch disc hub will be clear of obstruction on both sides. It would make this whole ordeal about 300-500 dollars cheaper for anyone who wishes to swap to this transmission but has a good working high torque capacity clutch kit installed already. I will try to confirm these suspicions and post photos.

Sorry for the confusion, The trans I was referring to is actually the one on the right, posted here:

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2d3dfd6a7e.jpg

Would be appreciated if a Mod could remove the other photo I posted to avoid confusion for anyone just skimming through.

Information is good. I can sympathize with not being 100% on board with the history and the weirdnesses of the different transmissions used. Mazda changed a lot of things around over the years.

It probably would be just fine to use a Nissan 240mm disk in a Turbo II pressure plate. Note that Turbo II and FD are the same diameter but different clutches, the FD has a pull style unit and the Turbo II has a normal one. Another one of those cross-swapping gotchas to look out for.

I mean, a 3-liter Ranger disk is used to mate a nonturbo (225mm) clutch to a Turbo II (23 spline) transmission, if you have an RX-3/4/5 bellhousing to mate up with the trans... since those cars had N/A sized flywheels (starter position, starter position!) but the same trans design as the TII/FD...

I'm still interested. I could always just use a topmount RX-3 starter and cut a pocket to fit as necessary... all rotaries up to 1992 have the mounts for the starter that Mazda stopped using in 1974.

(The *reason* why I am interested is the AWD version of those transmissions from the Infinitis. Which uses a computer controlled clutch pack to the front instead of a center diff. Which is the setup I would want.)

if you intend to do that with the RX-3 top mount starter, it would require offsetting it to the rear of the car by 1/2 inch, as the flywheel has has a spacer that moves it 1/2 inch further backward. The common method (when installing this box on some other engines) of removing 1/2 from the bell housing leaves an unsafe amount of clutch disc spline engagement for the this Turbo II or 13B setup. When making driveline components fit together, I like to always get full engagement on the sleeved portion (female) of splined components. Not adhering to that detail makes for interesting twists on splined sections that can cause binding or simply make it non-reusable if it ever has to be pried off. Repairing an input shaft every time you have to do the clutch doesn't seem efficient or fair to a consumer, in my opinion.

With your proposed starter modification, the only issue I see would be the top two bolts that fasten the bell housing to the adapter are close together, and the flange and snout on the RX-3 starter may come in contact with them, or simply not allow the starter to be used without removing them. A considerable amount of material would have to be removed from the top and you might lose fasteners. One way around this would be to make a flange/plate that you can weld to the top of the transmission if you remove those two bolts, and find a way to affix it so that when you bolt the starter, the rear two starter mount bolts will take care of keeping the transmission tight to the adapter up there. This would be a simple fix for that issue.

On the starter adapter I've developed with the owner of the car, there is still bell housing cutting, but all bolts are retained, and even the entire bell housing flange perimeter is retained.

As far as the G37x transmissions- I can't say that I've seen one in person or in photos. I thought they were only available in auto, so I never paid any mind to it.

I could have sworn that I have worked on a manual trans AWD Infiniti.

I am not concerned about missing fasteners. I delete two of the fasteners as it is, for speed of changing transmissions. Four is plenty.

lol, well you'll be glad to know that it has three on the left and three on the right, as well as a few smaller M8 ones on the bottom that were originally for the lower bed-plate on the VQ motors.

I think you'll be overwhelmed and probably feel that there are still too many, haha.

SMALL UPDATE

The car was on the dyno yesterday. Post-session reports from the tuner while in the hot-seat are no driveline vibration or anomalies up until the tested 7000RPM, which is the highest the car would go due to ignition issues under load.

So while a proper baseline or any subsequent pass could not be achieved- it was vibration free up until we decided to call it quits. We need to work on the ignition issues preventing the car from successfully completing a proper baseline or power run.

Sooooo good news and bad news. It's a bit of a heart-breaker, but it's good to know that as of yet, the drivetrain does not need to be removed to have anything rechecked, replaced, remachined, or redesigned.

I think that's a good step in the right direction. I believe I can start compiling a list of parts required and get pricing for the various items so I can put together a price list- with and without the slave cylinder and adapter as an option (which would lower the cost quite a bit as well, and would negate the expense for those of you who may have tilton or ap-racing units already).

Any updates on this? I was very excited about this due to having a 1JZ in my FC. Currently, I have a R154 on its way out but am hopeful about moving to the CD009.

This adapter plate has absolutely nothing to do with the R154 or the 1JZ. It is for the rotary engine. You'll have to look elsewhere for an adapter for the 1JZ. Those kits are costly, too.

id be interested to see pics of the trans mount. Still trying to figure out what will work best for my setup. keep up the good work though!

They also make an adapter for the JZ motors. So you can bolt it up. I don't think they make a kit to install in the car though.

This is by no means a chassis specific "installation kit" that I'm offering here either, I don't think anyone bases any installation kit for the RS6R31A Transmissions (real code name for these 350z/370z boxes) on a certain chassis, most are just engine specific adapters.

It's really up to the user how they'd want to mount it up- though I can provide a photo shortly. I have a number of them, I just haven't sorted through them in a while.

The transmission mount and the shifter location are - AT THIS POINT - up to the person installing the kit.

I do have a number of viable solutions for the shifter location at this point, which I've yet to test because I am not happy with the way the reverse lock-out functions on the relocated shifter assemblies, so I cannot offer that at this time- but it will be a necessity for my person vehicle (not an RX7), so in the near future it will be solved.

Currently, I am at a cross-roads between complexity and cost vs simplicity and features. I will have to do some more work on the shifter assembly by the end of the month to have it in my car as soon as possible. I have a T56 Magnum strike-rod assembly, a GT500 mustang strike rod assembly, and various nissan strike rod units, levers, shifter cups, and odds and ends... and it's still a challenging design exercise to come up with a good reverse-lockout mechanism.

The best way would be to excuse the mechanism from the design all together- but I think I'm close.

I'll dig something up sometime this weekend for you.

Any more news on this? Details on shortened shifter? I'm starting to figure things out for an FB build and this would be a nice trans option.

Haven't done much work on the shifter setup because I haven't put it in my personal car and I am swamped with other things... The car the setup is in is having another 13B built for it, because of issues with the first motor that turned out to be mechanical.

The shifter design in "theory" is easy to fix, but making an elegant solution that people would gladly buy rather than say "wtf is that piece of garbage" is an order of magnitude more complicated, more involved. So it costs more too. This is not important if you have fabrication skills and would like to fabricate something yourself and hide it under the shift boot. It's not insanely difficult to produce a one-off custom piece if you have the tools and know how to use them.

the Z32 Twin Turbo and Z33/34 or 350z/370z shifter assemblies are not quite the same as most other transmissions in that when you move the shifter to the left and forward into 1st gear, it is not turning the strike rod to the right, and pulling it back (i.e- it is not moving in both opposite directions, only in the forward/back directions. Left and right are mimic'd to the same direction).

Anyways, that's all technical hogwash.

If you want me to get pricing on the adapter kit, minus the shifter relocation- and I can help you figure out a solution that will work for you- we can do that.

PM me

Hello everyone,

Sorry for the absence. I have been receiving messages from some members here showing interest in the kit, as well as pricing and timeline + any additional info I could share. So I've directed you all here.

Technical Updates:

The car that is currently fitted with this kit made a very conservative 470whp on the dyno with no driveline vibration at 8000+ RPM, which is good.

The engine the kit was tested with was using earlier irons, which I was told were thinner castings than the later ones, and ended up cracking near some fitting or plug (I can't quite remember) which is a known problem on thinner casted 13B irons, apparently. Again, this isn't something I am familiar with, but I was told that it had more to do with the power output and poor casting than anything else.

Upon teardown of the engine after making 470+ whp we came to a number of positive conclusions regarding this kit.

I can now safely say that:

A] the flywheel spacer is machined and designed well, the ARP bolts that thread into the counterweight did not loosen at all, which is a big concern of mine. Some of the VK56 to CD/JK trans adapters make use of a similar spacer and have issues with aluminum flywheels and bolts coming loose. This kit did not show any signs of the same issues with its limited runs on the dyno. This will be further investigated throughout the year if the engine is ever removed from the vehicle again, but so far it's good. Flywheel Fastening = PASS

B] the adapter plate itself was machined to tolerances well within input shaft runout spec. No vibrations from the drivetrain from the motor all the way to the diff. This was confirmed on a dynapack to 7000rpm, and now a roller dyno to 8500rpm or thereabouts. Driveline Vibration = PASS

C] No issues with starter alignment or mounting to speak of. The car starts normally every time. There are very simple starter mods that can be done in about 5 minutes with a die grinder or even a cut-off wheel if you're handy [at least 14 dexterity required], and does not damage the starter or prevent it from being used in a standard mazda transmission at a later date if need be. Starter Fitment = PASS

D] Clutch slave adapter upgrade that was purchased from a Z parts outfitter seems to show signs of wear or running off-center, but I'm not sure if it's excessive or normal at this point. I am working on a separate style of clutch slave upgrade that will undoubtedly outlast most of the other clutch components and is easily rebuildable, cheaper, and much more robust. It will also feature a way better heavy duty bearing from the 350Z, which has the same conical "high speed" face that the original FC/FD does. Hydraulic Throwout Bearing = Still Testing


Pricing & Availability:

Pricing is coming soon.

The clutch slave thing is going to be the only holdup at this point since I don't want to sell a kit that has clutch slave failures repeatedly. Pulling these transmissions is not going to be fun in an unmodified car with the stock rad support and whatnot. I'd like to prevent that from being a normal thing. This means I have a new part of the puzzle to factor in, but it also means that you don't have to buy an "upgrade" slave cylinder from someone else that is 2.5-3 times the cost and is not rebuildable, nor do you have to buy the T56 slave that is used in the colins kit that uses the same bearing as the one in the "upgrade" kit- which at this point seems incompatible with the RX7 diaphragm fingers. That is a decent savings in cost when we get it working- which I already have a solution for, I just need to have it milled an installed.


There are
7-8 currently interested users here on the boards
4-5 currently interested locally

though I know this is only "interest" and not "guaranteed to buy".


In order to get accurate and best pricing, I will need to know who is interested in this kit for real.

admittedly, I simply do not have the funds to produce 20 of these kits and have them sitting around until someone decides to upgrade their drivetrain.


The only other alternative to this kit at this point is the Colins Adapter, and it currently requires an automatic Cosmo 20B bellhousing , and the purchase of their flywheel if you don't have the auto flex-plate and stock flywheel. it also requires the purchase of the T56 throwout bearing (which is virtually the same as the one used in the 350z upgrade kit, so I can't speak to its reliability just yet as we might be having problems with it). With their machined flywheel, the kit is $1200USD, and with the throwout bearing and lines, it ends up being around $1350-1400 USD and I you'll have to upgrade the bearing collar on the slave anyway, so you're looking at around $1500 USD for the Colins adapter.

Currently, it looks like the kit pricing of what I have here would be around $1500-1700 CAD, which is around $1100-1300 USD, but you should be able to use your factory flywheel and not require the purchase of hard to find auto bellhousing and flexplate. It will work with all your stock items. if you are upgrading from a manual setup already. The price COULD go down quite a bit depending on number of people interested, and whether or not the slave cylinder setup needs to be included- but you'd still have to purchase an upgraded slave afterwards if it's not included in the kit. the stock Z one is incompatible and a plastic piece of poop.



The kit will include:
- Adapter Plate for Transmission to Rear Iron
- Starter to Bell Housing Adapter
- Pilot Bushing for Eccentric Shaft
- Flywheel Spacer
- Clutch Slave / Hydraulic Throwout Bearing *pending
- Clutch Slave Mounting Plate *pending
- Clutch Slave Hydraulic Lines *pending
- Fasteners for:
--- Adapter Plate to Rear Iron
--- Transmission/Bellhousing to Adapter Plate
--- Starter Mount
--- Starter to Starter Mount
--- Flywheel to Flywheel Spacer & Counterweight
--- Clutch Slave/Bearing to Adapter Mount



In order to use this kit to put this transmission on a 13B engine you will provide:
- your own driveshaft
- your own manual starter
- your own pressure plate
- your own clutch disc with 350z/nissan T-24 spline
- your own flywheel
- your own counterweight
- your own rotary engine


there are no guarantees that it will fit in an unmodified chassis- as the transmission is quite wide and tall. the kit is simply to adapter the transmission to the engine, and nothing more.

you are responsible for fitting and mounting it into whatever chassis you choose. I repeat: everything outside of the bell housing or clutch/starting system are up to you and/or your fabricator. This kit is not specific to any vehicle.

No, this kit does not work on 2JZ engines. I am not sure why I've received 3 PMs regarding this. It does not work on any other engine other than those tested on.


I would like to open this thread for "interested" users who are serious, and understand the outside costs that are not included in the kit. You have to pay to play with proper transmission solutions. Overall, they are not cheap.

if you are seriously interested, put your name on this list below, and I will soon create a vendor thread or something in the proper forum:

================================================== ====-

"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"

1. <your name here>

"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still interested in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"


1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1

"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still interested in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"


1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7

4. Islander....
 

4. Islander

4. Islander.... Neal Adderley

"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven

Just being open here, only reason i would back down is if a Turbo II transmission came up for super cheap.

So just to confirm I read it correctly, the flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc (splined for the Nissan transmission) were all from a Turbo II?
Starter can be from any manual 13b right?
Once you have everything mocked up, can you take some detailed pictures and pictures with a ruler/scale? I want how much of my FB tunnel i have to push out the way for this to work.

By the way, thank you for doing this whole project!
Its nice to see experiments and new ideas

"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
6- ayp77 - Andrew

looking forward to the final update

"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
6- ayp77 - Andrew
7-Justa2rotor-Tim Brockert

looking forward to the final update

I would also like to confirm this. I had driven a 370z for 4 years and the transmission in my nismo was great and it would feel very familiar. I'm interested and would to know and confirm where I could source the other items needed.
"I have read the *estimated price* and I am still intersted in purchasing this kit or receiving more information in a vendor thread in the future"
1- Conroy Ganson. Aka. Fourkruzn
2- Project D1
3- MaD^94Rx7
4- Islander.... Neal Adderley
5- Stevo9494 - Steven
6- ayp77 - Andrew
7-Justa2rotor-Tim Brockert
8- cvzg77r

The flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disc were all made FOR a Turbo II, but they are aftermarket units. Flywheel I think was Fidanza (will confirm), and Pressure Plate + Disc was from Bulley Clutch.

I'm not sure how close the aftermarket units are to the factory equipped units in terms of dimensions, but there would be no reason to use a factory clutch anyways. stock Flywheel I could see being used, but the rest needs upgrading, or it's simply not worth it.

I will confirm on the flywheel.

I can't speak to the differences of other starters and whether they work or not. The best thing to do would be to ensure you use the same starter we used on this car, or try another one. There is a small modification to the nose of the starter on the edge of the little window where gear pops into when it's being energized. So as long as the dimensions are the same at the aluminum nose of the starter and the mounting area is identical, it should be fine. I think any starter that bolts onto the Turbo II manual transmission will work in this kit- that seems to make sense to me. But I can only "advise" to use the same one we are using.

You are obviously free to experiment with whatever starters, 1.5kw or 2kw, you feel that you want to try as an upgrade to whatever we used on this car if you have other versions of the starters laying around (if whatever we used is known to have problems or something that I am unaware of in terms of longevity or reliability in the original OEM application). but just be aware that any starter you do use will need a small area ground down and that MAY affect returning it as a core to a rebuilder. But if you do it cleanly enough and tidy it up with some 220G sandpaper before returning a core- they would never know anyways.

IN NO WAY does the starter modification prevent the starter from being used on a stock 13B Turbo II transmission. It is backwards compatible and takes about 60 seconds with a grinding tool of some sort. Just a bit of clearance has to be made on the starter gear "window" due to the angle we had to use to make this starter mount easy to insert and remove with two hands.

Aside from the starter mod, as long as the solenoid is positioned in the same place, it should clear the chassis/firewall/bulkhead area where it curves into the transmission tunnel. I'ts really tight there, as the entire bell housing is about 2" larger in diameter, so 1" all around. It clears fine though, with the solenoid orientation this starter had. Not sure where they are positioned on other rotary starters.

I will confirm which starter is being used.

What measurements would you like. The transmission tunnel on this car was cut out a long time ago, so it does not have the factory dimensions.

As posted earlier in this thread, the mounting pads on the body that hold the original transmission mounting bracket to the body and transmission will have to be cut/shaved/ground on either side of the transmission tunnel, because the gear case section of the transmission is about 11-12 inches at its widest point, and contacts those transmission bracket pads.

Confirmation on parts:
- Flywheel is FIDANZA Turbo II Flywheel.
- Starter is stock Turbo II starter.

It should work with the stock flywheel if they're identical in dimensions, but we haven't tried others.

It should work with other starters if the can be mounted similarily, but we haven't tried others.

Clutch is a bully clutch. Not sure how different the diaphragm fingers or pressure plate heights/shapes are on the RX7 clutches. I think it should work fine with most other clutches.

9-FCl0v3r

I don't think this is going to happen, friends.

The cost of production for the kit is far too expensive- even at 15-20 units

In order to sell them for a reasonable price I would have to pay in advance to produce upwards of 40 kits and sit on a pile of adapter kits for the next 2 years, or I would have to forfeit all profit whatsoever and not make even a single penny just to sell 10-15 units.

Having been a part of group buys before, less than 50% of those who are on the list will end up actually paying due to some unforeseen circumstance, so I'm not going to assume any risk with something of this magnitude- it is not an inexpensive investment for anyone involved, including myself.

Therefore it is not worth my time to pursue this any further.

I will report back if anything changes, or the price of labour and materials drops drastically over the next 6 months. (Not going to hold my breath)

This is extremely unfortunate. I have been eye-ing both kits but have refrained from jumping on the Collins kit because their approach did not sit so well with me. Mostly because of their hokey flywheel-flexplate-adapter solution and the forward facing starter, but hacking the transmission is also less than ideal.

As an aside, I've been looking at CSC alternatives and found this:
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...it-p-7340.html

Do you believe this would have the slightest chance of fitting under an FC?