Putting extra Dowels in a motor is a lot more tricky than making PP housings!:)
The key in making it work properly is into where the extra dowels are placed. It tooked me a very long time after much trial and error to figure out the best place to place the extra dowels. Putting extra dowels in the wrong place is going to cause more problems than not having any in the first place.

crispeed

crispeed,
What is your opinion on the necessity (sp?) of extra dowelling? I take it you are running them on your drag car engine. What hp/psi level would you recommend having it done at?

David Sanchez has a set that were done. I am assuming correctly because they held up. I would just duplicate the same as his if I tried it. I know the hole size and alignment is critical obviously. I am thinking a series of reamers may be the best way to do it.

Here is one of the housings I am building for Ken. If these housings were new it would not have been any problem finish grinding the tubes in the rotor chamber area.
I would recommend that if you do this though that you get a variable speed rotary grinder. That is because the aluminum will grind at a lower speed/ lower pressure than the hard chrome that it mates to.
When you are grinding the tube down and you get close to the hard chrome you slow it down and back of the pressure a bit. There is a speed/pressure that will not hurt the hard chrome and still take off the aluminum. That is the optimal speed/pressure for "flushing" the tube to the wall.
As I said before, these housings are being resurfaced so keep that in mind when you look at the surface condition of this housing.
http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/ken02.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/ken03.jpg

:drool: , everything is looking good, too bad i adondon my plans for peripheral port, maybe later on i'll come back to it.

Ken Scheepers had me pport a new set of housings. Pretty damn brave of him ;) He is going to finish the small welds on the outer side, the epoxy, and the final grinding of the tubes, as well as the final port timing grind work.
cheers, Scalli

http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new07.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new08.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new09.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new10.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new11.jpg

http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new12.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new13.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new14.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new15.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new16.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new17.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new18.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new19.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new20.jpg http://webpages.charter.net/mikeroberts/new21.jpg

Man oh man... you're seriously an inspiration to me.

Looks like I'm going to have to be trying this this summer... though maybe even more ghetto. ;)

Very impressive! When you have an estimate for the finished product please post it.

curious to see how you have filled the the stock ports. just wondering if you leave some kind of relief when filling them in. :)

This is kind of a residual effect of my rotor housing resurfacing project. Because I am working with one racer's (Scheepers) and quite possible more in the future it would be a conflict of interest for me to deliver a finished pport housing that was ready to use.
The best I could do is bore the hole and press fit the tube and deliver it in the same state as in the last pictures.
The conflict would come if I did the final port timing on the exhaust and the performance depends heavily on how that is done. I could not even give suggestions in that area.
If someone sent me a clean (not perfect, but not greasy) For me to bore a hole, make a tube, and press fit it in would be $150.00 per housing plus shipping both ways. That is for a 55mm ID tube. Any other size would require me locating tube that would work as well as a different size saw so it would be more.

I obviously would not have shown everybody how to do this procedure if I was planning on using it for a business angle. So I will mainly be offering it to people that I am resurfacing their housing (which is not available yet).
Realizing that some people do not want to invest in a small combo mill/ lathe and do this themselves the above is the best I can offer them.

All pports I have ever seen had Devcon in the stock ports with enough relief to steer clear of the side seals.
I am entertaining the thought when I resurface side housings of using a filler (yet to be determined) and spraying over the port as well.
My thinking on that is that it would create less wear on the side components.
I will be making a streetable pport (no 55mm tubes) ;) and the rotor housings and side plates were sprayed it would be very interesting to see how long the motor would last.
My T-Bucket roadster project is where I plan to try it. It will be fuel injected w/ turbo and will debut my pport throttle bodies which you guys are really going to like ;)

Scalliwag,

This motor you are building. Is it going to be a turbo motor? Those intake runners look huge. What type of RPM's will you need to run to keep that thing at idle?

Also, did you weld those P-Ports to the housing? It looks like you welded them from the inside? Are they made out of aluminum?

Thanks!

These are for Ken Scheepers NHRA- Import All Motor class car. He is running an identical pport right now. He launches at 11k. The housings I am resurfacing are also for his car with the same setup as well. So we will be able to see how the resurfaced housings are compared to a new set.
The tubes are press fit and they just get small welds on the outer area and Devcon epoxy is used to fill the water jackets.

What about the other questions I asked ? :):):)

Go look at the edited message above

Thanks, one more question for you. What diameter tube would you use for a turbo motor?

Yes the tubes are aluminum

I would still use the same size if it was for a race setup.
If I wanted to street it I would either make sleeves that slid in externally to choke it down a bit but that would take a lot of experimenting to get that to work.
I would run a Microtech on it and have a map programmed for the choked (street) and another map for the full open setup.
You could slip the intake off real quick and switch the chokes and change the maps in minutes. It is the initial setup that would take some time.

yeah i understand the use of devcon. i was just wondering how much of a relief you use. (ie 1/16in?) the relief is also used to allow blowby gasses to be purged into the chamber that is on the intake cycle as the rotor still is still passing this port uncovering the pocket...

That I am not sure of. It is a pretty shallow relief though.

Depending on the application I would use 1/16 to 1/8 inch relief with 1/8 being the norm.

crispeed
87 RX-7 TII
9.204@150.47mph
2600ls
un-tubbed

thanks for the clarification crispeed, and also to you Scalliwag for your posts. :)

Scalliwag how old are you?

also can i have your children?

I am so old that I am clueless as to the point of your inquisitions ;)