Do the same offset all around and get 5 or 6 so you have a spare in case

 

^The wheels have already been purchased.

Is there a difference I will feel in the offset being different from front to rear? I plan on running the same tire size all the way around.

Spare wheels? You've had extra wheels this whole time?

 

I bought a Triple gauge speaker pod and now it's time to put something in them.

I was planning on running...

-Oil Temp
-Oil Pressure
-Water Temp

 

Finally got around to working on the 7 again. Oil Coolers have been reconditioned and Stoptech BBK installed.

I need tires for the RPF1's. I got a square setup finally 18x9.5 +45 for all four corners. I think I need tire size 255/30/18. I believe this will work if I roll the fenders.

 

I don't think a tire exist in that size. You'll likely need to go to 255/35/18, which is where you'll have a ton of options.

 

jerry i have the exact same wheels, and i have 265/35/18 tires on them (bridgestone RE-11). i recommend running this size. 265/35/18 is a pretty common size, you can rotate the wheels front to rear (and left to right), they look nice, and 265 is a lot of tire, so the grip is great.

you will need to roll the front fenders, but the front wheels/tires fit very nicely after that.





front wheels (about 1/4" of outside clearance)


rear wheels (about 1" of outside clearance)

 

Thanks for the info. Tires have been ordered. I went with the Dunlop Direzza ZIIs. I have been using Hankook RSs for years and decided to try a new tire.

 

Which rear bar do you use? Front & Rear spring rates? Whatever you use, with your skills, you haul *** on the track! Really enjoy your videos.

For the track, I just added race pads and Eibach hollow bars for the summer "season". The front bar was like the tripoint at mid setting, with .15" wall. This is an old table I made, still relevant for Tripoint, RB, and stock:

http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/antiroll_bars.htm

.

 

OP, for the track, I just added race pads and Eibach hollow bars (discontinued) for the summer "season". The front bar was like the tripoint at mid setting, with .15" wall. When I started to run the hollow 19mm rear at the stiff setting, I cracked the rear bar along the straight length. I wondered why I was starting to understeer badly. I modified/stiffened the oem front mounts before any option was available.


This is an old table I made, still relevant for Tripoint, RB, Suspension Techniques and stock:

Antiroll Bars

As Mahjik said, you need to know MR's and other info to technically size bars. One simple guide is to maintain the same stiffness ratio, F/R, as the diameter is increased, if you want the same balance.

.

 

Finally got her on the track yesterday. Everything went better than I wanted. I ran the 265/35/18 and had lots of grip. The car was balanced well, but tended to understeer more than I wanted. I got the Stoptech Brakes put on but did not realize I needed to change the Brake Master Cylinder. I will be looking to upgrade it now.

I will post pictures and videos soon.

 

for a first time out, mild understeer is kind of a pleasant surprise. it lets you concentrate on other things, besides getting your elbows over your head

 

^ I'm with you on that. I'll get around to tuning the car to drive like I want it. I have the Tein Flex Coilovers. I have no idea what to do when it comes to things like rebound and dampening though.

The highest water temp I saw was 113c in traffic so I started to slow down. Fresh air it was sitting at 104c which I thought was good.

 

 

 

Beautiful car Jerry, did you repaint it?

My 93 suffered from some chronic paint lift off in small spots. And from Summit Point Raceway, the paint in front got peppered from small gravel on the outside of turn 10. I was chasing a friend and we both stepped out a bit on the 95mph corner, but I was the one that got the sand blasting.

.

 

yeah man that car really went well ! , I think I wussed out , I would just let off a soon as I saw 105c

well regardless , Next event ! I plan to keep up with you haha

 

Still has the original paint. The pictures make it look prestine, but she has her blemishes. I have the clear bra on the car so I didn't get any big chips that I know of. I have yet to give her a wash and see fully.

 

You may have been right to let off. It's been so long since I've been on track. My adrenaline starts pumping and I just have to keep it going.

 

there was another FD on sunday , and he was going into the teens as well .

 

I mod'd my eom water temp gauge (parallel resister) to start rising quickly at 105C. I had the Ron Dennis Rad with a well sealed supply of air, and dedicated air to a greddy SMIC, custom air path to intake ( my Touring has one oil cooler, so other opening was my air intake ).

At the track, I would only see the gauge go above 105C on the hottest days, and all I had to do was short shift a minute to get temps back down.

With your dual OC's, you should have better cooling. I put 1/4" screens loosely in front of my single OC to keep the fins open for max airflow. Did same for Radiator.

.

 

I plan on adding a water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure gauge. The modified OEM Water temp trick is something I'll look into.

For the Oil Coolers I need to find the 99 spec ducts since I have the replica 99 front end. That or I can make my own ducting, but I don't know how. If it comes down to it I'll figure something out. Like they say necessity is the mother of invention.

 

If you are adding a set of gauges, then I don't see the value of modifying the stock gauge, other than turning it into a warning gauge as the needle moves quickly aabove 105C.

I just wanted a boost gauge on the A piller. Instead of a 5 point harness, I got a universal lap belt, bolted the anchor ends together, and fitted it around my waist just before a lapping session.

I did a write up of my parallel resistor method (archives?), and another guy figured out how to modify the internal gauge circuit to make it a linear response.

.