i was looking at the ground control coil over kits on their site, and there are two: race and street. it looks like the race one lets you lower the car more. is there any other difference? whats the difference in lowering limits? which is the best to get? i have a welder, so the modificaton that the race one requires isn't a problem. thanks for all the help

bump

i'm not to sure what all the differences are other than having to weld on the new lower spring perch. but i just got done installing mine last weekend and the results were definately noticeable. i welded on the new perches at the dimensions given with the instructions and even with turn-in spaces i was able to set the fender all the way down on the the wheels with only going down half way on the adjustment with 215-45-13's as the tires. so needless to say i don't forsee i will even be able to lower the car to it's potential without modding my fenders. so yea they do the trick thats for sure. heres a couple of pics of how my 7 looks after dropping. i have eibach race 8" front springs and G force "red dot" rear springs.

Get the race one with the low profile lower spring perch. gives more clearance for tire

race kit it is. thanks

ok, i've been doing some searching for rims, and here is where i am. i found 13x8 aluminum racing rims which weigh 10.48 lbs each for $990/4. Then there are the diamond steel wheels same size weighing in at 14lbs each for $284/4. Is it really worth the $700 more for 14 lbs? that $700 is the parts for an engine rebuild. any opinions on the matter.

Not worth the dough. The blue car below has 13x8 diamonds. They are not attractive but get the job done. And can bump the berm and take it pretty good too.

If you get the G-force rear set-up you can go with a stiffer rear spring. The biggest problem in back is the upper links that try to pull the rear side to side as the car leans. If you look at the car it has 50/50 balance, the big difference is the unsprung weight of the rear end itself when you figure ride rates. Before the tri-link, stiff bushings(urethane etc.) just made the problem worse, basically the whole system became a sway-bar and you had to run squishy springs to keep it from totally locking up. Susko was a Pro-Solo national champ and used to be on the Solo comp board you might check with him to see if his spacers are legal. I haven't look at Solo rules in a long time. The loophole would be if they allow "alternate struts" instead of just inserts. The ackerman change you get from them is great for Solo. They would also decrease the size of front bar you would need.

I checked my old files and I had 450lb front springs and 300lb rear with the stock modified front bar. I don't know what Jim recommends now but that was the first G-force set-up ever for these cars.

The turn in spacers are not allowed in CSP....autoX.

yeah, i'm thinking the diamonds are the best bet. the car needs too many other things to blow $1000 on just rims.

Go with the inexpensive wheels, and use the extra money for something else. You can always get the other wheels later ......... if you feel the need.

yeah, i'm going with the diamonds. not i need to decide on tires. i realy like kumho victoracers, but the 13" size is 205/60-13, which is taller and narrower than i want. the v700 is available in 235/45-13 which is about the size i want, but i have heard bad things about these tires. i'm the only driver on the car, so if i shaved them i shouldn't have to worry about overheating them at autocross. the hoosiers look pretty nice, but i have heard the wear sucks and they are more expensive. tough decisions.

Before you confirm the carb choice, check out the MegaSquirt EFi set-up. Build the computer yourself for about $175.http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html Use the Holly TB and manifold if you want but I hear the computers crap out often. There is an upgrade due for MegaSquirt any day now.

i've looked at the megasquirt before. i think i'm gonna just go with the ported stock manfold and sterling modified carb. I have heard great things about that carb. Thanks for the info

I used the same Kumho's and liked them. I doubt even full tread it'll overheat in an autox, which is low speed short course. Not much time to warm up the tires. If the car is real heavy, that's another thing. I see WRX's spraying water on their tires after each run, water steams. But they use soft and easy to warm up autox compound tires.

thats what i was thinking. i don't dual drive the car, so the v700s would have time to cool off between runs, plus the car will be as light as legally possible.

i ran the v700's last year and experienced overheating even with spraying them down with water!! but did a total revamp on my suspension again this year so i'm stepping up to the V710's..........just my .02 cents

Wow, howd I miss this thread? Anyway, I used to use 13x8 Diamonds on my CSP car befroe I converted it to an IT car. 4" bs is perfect but you MUST roll the rear fender lips and cut off the front stock flares or they wont fit. I agree that the more rubber on the ground the better in Autox. Also the smallest tire dia you can find to gain acceleration. I used 225-45/13 Hoosiers. Best tire going, but not cheap and arent as durable. But IMHO tires are like speakers, they make or break the whole setup. BTW OT- If you want my old Diamonds PM me. Yes the spacers arent CSP legal anymore, and BUY Suskos book first before you buy any suspension parts. My bushing mod is a decent band aid and you will feel more roll compliance which is a good thing. I have the total Gforce setup on the IT car and it totally rocks. I dont think EFI is legal in SP unless its the OEM setup. I wont try to sell you my setup here, do your homework and decide for yourself. :D Sounds like your on the right track though. A well planned project will get you there. Ive tried to advise people to take this approach and the ones who didnt wasted ALOT of $ and time on shit that flat out doesnt work. Autox, while similar to Road racing, has its own criteria. If the 4:10 rear is legal, GET IT. You need the all the torque (real or apparent) you can muster to get you around the course and power out of the turns. You spend much more time in the turns compared to a road race car. This makes handling priority one, braking 2nd, and accelration 3rd. Time lost comming out of the turn and waiting for the pathetic torque of the rotary to accelerate the car is time you will never get back. My personal recipie for a real 1st gen winner in CSP would be an SE setup as an ITS car. Then gearing is open, less weight (stripped interior) Ballast allowed, turn in spacers allowed. Just my $0.02. :D

i pm'd you. thanks for the info. thats the first i ahve heard of having to modify the fenders. i just bought a house with my fiance and we are getting married this summer, so the car might sit till next year. i would like to get the engine out and torn sown to start the rebuild this summer, then work on the chassis. Its definately going to be done in stages. i have had a few cars before that i threw parts at and wasted money until i got what i wanted. i'm definately going to try to do it right the first time with this car (especially now that everything has to be approved by the wife)

No problem. 13x7's will barely clear. The extra width puts it over the edge.

Big Ole Wheels
 

Go with Circle Racing wheels as they are the only company that offers 1/2" lug holes. Diamond wheels are made for stock cars and have 5/8" lug holes, and require 1" lug nuts. Same weight and cost. Better choice for class would be E-Prepaired. Look it up in the rule book. DICK.

will a 215/50-13 fit on a 13x8 rim, or is it too narrow? the v710s are available that size, and i have heard a lot of good things about them.

It might streach but can't say for sure. Better have a tire shop at the race track mount it, they know what they're doing at the track.

America's Tire Store told me they've made thin steel rims more square when trying to mount tight fit R compounds.

Kumho reccomends a 7.5" rim as the widest. I guess if in doubt trust the manufacturer.

http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/Ptn...=1&PtnID=EV710