Keep the 275/ 315 tire setup or trade off for less weight?
I finished my track car last year, but did not get to make it out to any large tracks. Only did a autocross and a couple little lapping sessions on a banked oval. So I do not know how well the current tire setup is really working. I am eager to shed weight off the car, as each rear tire/wheel combo weighs in at a hefty 55lbs.
Here is a quick spec of my car- Weight- 2520lbs w/o driver Power- 428 rwhp non-turbo 20b Downforce- APR GT wing Custom front splitter with undertray Custom rear diffuser Suspension- Showa custom coilovers Sway bars- stock Front tires- 275/40 -17 nitto Nt-01 Rear tires- 315/35 -17 nitto Nt-01 Front weight 48% Rear weight 52% Crossweights- see pics http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...DSC01353-1.jpg http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...DSC01354-1.jpg So my question is, will a chassis with my current weight/ power, and downforce be able to fully utilize a 315 wide rear tire? Can it get the tires up to temp without issue? Would the drop in unsprung weight and rotational mass of going to a 285 rear tire in a 18" size make for a faster lap time, even with less rubber? Switching tire/rims would reduce 15lbs a corner. Anyone have experience with trying these sizes on a road course? Thanks for any input! |
My experience is limited track-wise, but I would opt for the lighter wheel/tire combo. This is why I went with the wheels I did with my setup. I'm shooting for ~2600lbs, and went with a 255/40r18 on all 4 for my street setup. With a good tire compound you shouldn't have any traction issues, but its a bit up to you what you are willing to trade off for lateral grip. If youre shooting for an all-out grip monster, Id do the 18x10/10.5 all around whatever size (~275-295) R-compounds you favor. I know your car is making more power than mine will, but I see no real need for that large of a rear tire in your application. Ive dealt with ~450rwhp single turbo cars running 265 rears in something like the direzza star specs for Advan AD08s with little traction problems. Im assuming since this is your track car you are referring to R-comps, which I have much less experience with, so my "advice" may be a bit skewed. 15lbs per corner is a big deal though (as Im sure you know), and Id gladly trade off a slight bit of grip for the advantages that come with lower weight. I also question if you can properly get those tires up to temp. Have you been checking with a pyrometer at your track days? Really the only way to know for sure whats going on.
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With 400 plus rwhp go even bigger if they'll fit and also your car must be pushing with 275s in the front unless you have a tight rear and loose front.
C5 corvettes that weigh more and make 100 less horse power run 335s and they have massive rear wings. I have 333 rwhp and run 275 40 17 all the way around and over heat tires after about 4 laps. My car could easily use 315s and I have 100 less hp. Rotational weight is huge though so don't go cheap on wheels but again you could use more tire if it will fit. |
You might have an issue if you were talking about a street car with conservative alignments that might not take advantage of the full width of the tire and cost you in weight/rolling resistance, but on a track car like yours, you're probably able to use all you can stuff in there.
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Originally Posted by Rxmfn7
(Post 10499619)
15lbs per corner is a big deal though (as Im sure you know), and Id gladly trade off a slight bit of grip for the advantages that come with lower weight. I also question if you can properly get those tires up to temp. Have you been checking with a pyrometer at your track days? Really the only way to know for sure whats going on.
Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
(Post 10499744)
With 400 plus rwhp go even bigger if they'll fit and also your car must be pushing with 275s in the front unless you have a tight rear and loose front.
C5 corvettes that weigh more and make 100 less horse power run 335s and they have massive rear wings. I have 333 rwhp and run 275 40 17 all the way around and over heat tires after about 4 laps. My car could easily use 315s and I have 100 less hp. Rotational weight is huge though so don't go cheap on wheels but again you could use more tire if it will fit.
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
(Post 10499898)
You might have an issue if you were talking about a street car with conservative alignments that might not take advantage of the full width of the tire and cost you in weight/rolling resistance, but on a track car like yours, you're probably able to use all you can stuff in there.
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Originally Posted by GtoRx7.
(Post 10500034)
Yeah, I am not very concerned with straight line grip as like you mention R-comps grip pretty well in that department. Once in a while I can loose a little bit of traction in 1st gear, but on the track it will be 2nd gear and up. Didn't have a chance to check tire temp, as I went to those track events mainly to monitor the engine temps and reliability of all the fittings.
This makes me happy to see, as keeping my current setup is easier and cheaper :) I do not have a ounce of understeer surprisingly. Only time I could provoke it was by being overzealous with the steering through extremely tight low speed turns. Still was very little. With the engine so far back and down in the chassis, the front end wants to change direction without fighting. Current wheels weigh 19lbs each in the rear and 17lbs each in the front. Would like to buy lighter ones, but not sure I can justify the cost for 4lbs a corner Looks like for this season I will try out the 315's. Will buy some kumho v710's though :) Good to hear on the turn in. Nothing worse than waiting for the car to turn before applying the go pedal. |
Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
(Post 10500279)
Kumhos are good for autox but get greasy in a hurry on road courses and consequently will wear very fast while you run slow laps sliding through the corners.
Good to hear on the turn in. Nothing worse than waiting for the car to turn before applying the go pedal. |
Originally Posted by GtoRx7.
(Post 10500317)
What R-comp is doing best on road courses? I heard some positive things about the new BFG, any truth to that? Also have a few guys telling me the R888's are junk, which the NT-01 is virtually the same tire and compound.
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Originally Posted by Specter328
(Post 10500715)
Hoosier R6's are a popular tire among the tracks guys. I heard that the NT01 was very good for what it is (not as sticky as Hoosiers, Hankooks, etc...but last longer). I've also been told the compound was the same at the Toyo RA1 which has proven itself a very good r-comp that lasts a long time.
RA1s and likely NTs are fine for low HP light weight slow cars that won't heat them up like spec miatas but a car like yours if driven will chew those tires up in no time. PS Hankooks are great for the money but they won't come in your size. |
Originally Posted by GtoRx7.
(Post 10500317)
What R-comp is doing best on road courses? I heard some positive things about the new BFG, any truth to that? Also have a few guys telling me the R888's are junk, which the NT-01 is virtually the same tire and compound.
r888 vs ra1 needs a different alignment, AND the Ra1's like to slide around a little, and the R888's do not, so it takes a different technique too. we were faster on the R888's vs the Ra1's, not by a lot, but its the same compound. we have then switched to the hankook slick, and dropped 3 seconds without doing anything else. again the hankook takes a different chassis setup than the R888. and we're about to switch to hoosiers, which should need a different setup. as far as wear goes, we're running a honda, and we've run the 25 hours of thunderhill with the Ra1, R888, and the hankooks. the R888's might last a little longer than the hankooks, but not much. the hankooks were going about 6 hours on the front... um the other data point, are the imsa GTU cars, they were running something like 305/16 and 335/16's at a weight of 2250lbs, with less power than you.... |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 10500759)
the R888's get compared to the Ra1's. people love the Ra1's, and supposedly they are the same compound, but the construction is different.
r888 vs ra1 needs a different alignment, AND the Ra1's like to slide around a little, and the R888's do not, so it takes a different technique too. we were faster on the R888's vs the Ra1's, not by a lot, but its the same compound. we have then switched to the hankook slick, and dropped 3 seconds without doing anything else. again the hankook takes a different chassis setup than the R888. and we're about to switch to hoosiers, which should need a different setup. as far as wear goes, we're running a honda, and we've run the 25 hours of thunderhill with the Ra1, R888, and the hankooks. the R888's might last a little longer than the hankooks, but not much. the hankooks were going about 6 hours on the front... um the other data point, are the imsa GTU cars, they were running something like 305/16 and 335/16's at a weight of 2250lbs, with less power than you.... IMO 888s suck. |
Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
(Post 10500764)
I cooked some new 888s in 4 hours of track time. 333 rwhp and 2650 weight.
IMO 888s suck. although price vs performance the hankooks are WAY better than the R888's |
Originally Posted by GtoRx7.
(Post 10500034)
Looks like for this season I will try out the 315's. Will buy some kumho v710's though :) The RE Amemiya Hurricane 7 is running 18x10 all 4 corners and Yokohama Advan A050, 265/35/18 That turbo 20b engine is making over 600 rwhp so they must know something we don't running those small tires with so much power. http://octanereport.com/tuned-cars/2...mazda-rx7.html |
Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
(Post 10500736)
With that HP if you actually use the right pedal nothing but a Hoosier or race tire/slick is going to work. 888s, NTs, RA1s etc.... will get hot and melt. Cheap tires are like cheap brake pads in the end you're better off just spending money than dealing with the issues of a poorly performing product.
RA1s and likely NTs are fine for low HP light weight slow cars that won't heat them up like spec miatas but a car like yours if driven will chew those tires up in no time. PS Hankooks are great for the money but they won't come in your size.
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 10500759)
as far as wear goes, we're running a honda, and we've run the 25 hours of thunderhill with the Ra1, R888, and the hankooks. the R888's might last a little longer than the hankooks, but not much. the hankooks were going about 6 hours on the front...
um the other data point, are the imsa GTU cars, they were running something like 305/16 and 335/16's at a weight of 2250lbs, with less power than you....
Originally Posted by t-von
(Post 10501207)
The RE Amemiya Hurricane 7 is running 18x10 all 4 corners and Yokohama Advan A050, 265/35/18
That turbo 20b engine is making over 600 rwhp so they must know something we don't running those small tires with so much power. http://octanereport.com/tuned-cars/2...mazda-rx7.html |
Originally Posted by t-von
(Post 10501207)
The RE Amemiya Hurricane 7 is running 18x10 all 4 corners and Yokohama Advan A050, 265/35/18
That turbo 20b engine is making over 600 rwhp so they must know something we don't running those small tires with so much power. http://octanereport.com/tuned-cars/2...mazda-rx7.html That's pretty much a show car, but I have noticed Japanese tuners running smaller tires—perhaps due to regulations for whatever race/time attack classes they run. It could be for a time attack format where you just get a couple laps, the small tire will get up to temp quickly and not have as much rolling resistance, and you're not worried about overheating and longevity because you'll always run fresh ones. I wouldn't say they know anything we don't know, and I'll go back to my original premise: I've never seen anyone in racing run less than the maximum amount of tire they can under regulations. if I could stuff more tire under mine than the 18x10, 285/30/18 all around setup I have, I'd be all over it. |
Originally Posted by Fritz Flynn
(Post 10500736)
With that HP if you actually use the right pedal nothing but a Hoosier or race tire/slick is going to work. 888s, NTs, RA1s etc.... will get hot and melt. Cheap tires are like cheap brake pads in the end you're better off just spending money than dealing with the issues of a poorly performing product.
RA1s and likely NTs are fine for low HP light weight slow cars that won't heat them up like spec miatas but a car like yours if driven will chew those tires up in no time. PS Hankooks are great for the money but they won't come in your size. |
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
(Post 10501602)
That's pretty much a show car, but I have noticed Japanese tuners running smaller tires—perhaps due to regulations for whatever race/time attack classes they run. .
so logan, are you running in a particular class? |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 10501912)
that's actually a good point, we're running PT and TT this year, and we're limited on tire size, in both classes. actually come to think of it, PS1, honda challenge, E2 and specE30 are all either on spec tires, or limited by tire size
so logan, are you running in a particular class? |
Originally Posted by GtoRx7.
(Post 10502335)
Yeah, Nasa ST1 class. They have a great set of rules, that either subtract or add to your power/weight ratio.
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Tires
After years of playing with tires we went to slicks three years ago. I'll never go back. The performance is so superior and the life is the same if not better. I buy one set a year of Yokohama A005 slicks and they last a season of time attacks and one major race event (Edmonton Indy support race). The slicks are good for about 2 seconds a lap on a 1:05 course over the RA-1's with no other changes.
I run a 260/640/17 up front and a 280/650/18 out back on Enkei RPF1 rims and 400 rwhp. The whole assembly is half the weight of my r-comps and the tires last the entire season. We also run a third gen with the Yoko/Enkei combo, but he runs the 280's all around and 440 rwhp. He has a site at: www.4kruzn.com My site is www.rxracing.com |
after thinking about it, i'd take the points, and run the biggest stickiest tires i can cram in there.
my experience is a little limited, as the hoosiers get the first break in next weekend, but yeah the hankook slick was 3 seconds faster for us, with the same tire life as the R888's, and they even cost about the same, so it's a pretty easy choice. if you have to add weight, in our experience 50-100lbs isn't as significant to lap times as sticky tires. |
Originally Posted by TrentO
(Post 10504973)
After years of playing with tires we went to slicks three years ago. I'll never go back. The performance is so superior and the life is the same if not better. I buy one set a year of Yokohama A005 slicks and they last a season of time attacks and one major race event (Edmonton Indy support race). The slicks are good for about 2 seconds a lap on a 1:05 course over the RA-1's with no other changes.
I run a 260/640/17 up front and a 280/650/18 out back on Enkei RPF1 rims and 400 rwhp. The whole assembly is half the weight of my r-comps and the tires last the entire season. We also run a third gen with the Yoko/Enkei combo, but he runs the 280's all around and 440 rwhp. He has a site at: www.4kruzn.com
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 10505062)
after thinking about it, i'd take the points, and run the biggest stickiest tires i can cram in there.
my experience is a little limited, as the hoosiers get the first break in next weekend, but yeah the hankook slick was 3 seconds faster for us, with the same tire life as the R888's, and they even cost about the same, so it's a pretty easy choice. if you have to add weight, in our experience 50-100lbs isn't as significant to lap times as sticky tires. |
Something to consider...I know that Bill (blackey) had a serious push with his car last year when he was running 285/30/18F and 335/30/18R. (4 inch total stagger)
see Bill's build thread I would take a look at his thread and send him note. Bill is a nice guy and will tell you what he has learned about running high HP cars with wide rubber. Guy |
Originally Posted by finger lock
(Post 10508110)
Something to consider...I know that Bill (blackey) had a serious push with his car last year when he was running 285/30/18F and 335/30/18R. (4 inch total stagger)
see Bill's build thread I would take a look at his thread and send him note. Bill is a nice guy and will tell you what he has learned about running high HP cars with wide rubber. Guy |
Searched around and it doesn't look like the hankook's come in 315/35-17?
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I have used many tires on my track car and hands down the R6 Hoosiers are by far the best. They are very light, the stick well, and last reasonably well. Pretty much everyone I know that is making power uses them. The only people I know that use anything other than an R6 (or A6 for some TT guys) are people in a class with a spec tire....
Hoosier has a good contingency program too. FWIW I have found that as close to square setup as possible works for my car. I have 395whp (LSx motor) and run 275s R6. I would like more tire but I will probably end up going to 315s all the way around once I have everything else sorted. At this point I dont believe my tire width is effecting my lap times.... I have tried various stagger setups and was always slower with them. I imagine that one could be fast with a stagger but it seems like it takes a LOT of suspension tuning to make that happen... most people I know that had big staggers (285f/335r) are moving to a much closer to square setup if not a square setup... they couldnt ever make the car handle right with the big stagger... If I was going to have a staggered setup I would try something no more than 10-20mm difference... maybe 315F and 335R. My 18x9.5 with 275s ended up being lighter than my old 17x9 setup with 275s... I dont know the tire weights on the 335s but it may end up being lighter if you go to 18s. |
Slicks
"So do you think if I go 315's rear and 285 front slicks that it would be too much? I am eager to run slicks, because as you stated they are much lighter and much stickier. "
I'd suggest staying closer to square. The FD was putting down 440 rwhp with the 280/650/18 yokohama slicks on all four corners. Laster year he ran the 260/640/17 up front and the car was understeering quite badly on turn-in. Here's who we get the slicks from and the catalogue: http://www.tracksideperformance.com http://www.tracksideperformance.com/...atalog2010.pdf We run the S001 (now just called soft) compound and it is fast and still gives reasonable life. The 20B car we run against had 320/650/18's up front and the 330/710/18's out back. With near 700 hp on tap he didn't appear to have traction issues. In my FC I found the 280's to hold better through power-on high speed corners than the 260's (you could feel the extra grip). I think anything more is overkill. -Trent |
When I bought my coilovers from re-amemiya I asked the rep what setup he runs and he said 18x9 265/35 front 18x10 265/35 rear on the Fuji GP circuit with 450rwhp. I got the feeling that this was just a street/trackday setup. Interesting to see what those guys over there use since the language barrier makes it so difficult.
btw my post count is great right now :) |
Just saw this. I would run 285/315 or maybe a 295/315 if you can. 285/285 would be fine too.
I would say the more the better as long as you can keep the front and back about the same. With too much stagger the car will push no matter what you do. - as Guy pointed out. We tried for half a season to get it out and couldn't. As far as tires go... R888 Suck - They go off after a few heat cycles like Hoosiers, so why bother... From what I can tell Hoosier R6 is worth about .75-1 sec per minute of lap time over an NT01. From there you can go to Full Slicks or A6's if you need to. Bill |
My Front wheels are 10.5" wide, so I can most likely fit in a 285 and still have room in the fender. I am going to wear out the NT01's first just to get some seat time in the car, then switch to hoosiers. I never shaved the NT's on the car right now, anyone have experiance if shaving will gain a lot more traction? Or just let the tread wear away while tracking it?
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shaving is not necessary on nt01s at all, also it may be a bit, thats why people like those tires, they last forever for what they are haha
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Originally Posted by GtoRx7.
(Post 10519714)
My Front wheels are 10.5" wide, so I can most likely fit in a 285 and still have room in the fender. I am going to wear out the NT01's first just to get some seat time in the car, then switch to hoosiers. I never shaved the NT's on the car right now, anyone have experiance if shaving will gain a lot more traction? Or just let the tread wear away while tracking it?
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Originally Posted by GtoRx7.
(Post 10507803)
Yeah, I am extremely interested in the what the result of hankook vs. Hoosier is for you. Hankooks price is really attractive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FieUdPeFXoU the edit @8min is 2 caution laps removed if you look close after about half a lap, there is so much water in the car under braking the relays (for the 25 hour lights) on the passenger floorboard are under water during braking the green miata is the other car in the class. |
Awesome! Sweet video!
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Glad to hear about different track set-ups... I just started tracking my FD last year and in the process of fine tuning the suspension and tire set-up. Here's my experience so far...
Initial set-up at Streets of Willow. Running R888's staggered at 265/295, HKS front bar, stock 93 rear bar, it pushes a lot to the point where I have to jerk the wheel on tight corners and use the throttle to move the rear end where I want it. High speeds it feels uncomfortably light up front... Second set-up made some changes and went to Buttonwillow first time ever. I added my rear stiffer HKS bar along with a 6" custom front slitter and APR GTC-300 wing only at 7 degree AOA. Still pushes on tight corners but not as bad as before...high speed feels more stable but not turning as crisp as I would like and still nervous to push it. Next step is fatter front tire, thinking 285's, corner balancing and adjusting camber based on my last tire temps. Only thing that sucks about the 285 R888's is they're like $80 more expensive than the 295's. Weird. Any one know what tire pressures work well with R888's? Can't seem to get the temps above 150F degrees on 70F degree days... |
Panda,
A couple of things, you should be able to dial out your push by adjusting the AOA on your wing. I have the same wing and am running it at 0° AOA in the center. (3.5 inch front splitter, 285/30/18 R6 F&R) Your tires...I'm not a big fan of the R888s. I believe you would do much better with a set of Hoosier R6s, Goodyear Eagle RSs or perhaps the BF Goodrich G-force R1s (I don't know about the BFGs on a FD). Be patient on the track, the speed will come with seat time. Best, Guy |
Originally Posted by PandazRx-7
(Post 10537108)
Any one know what tire pressures work well with R888's? Can't seem to get the temps above 150F degrees on 70F degree days...
http://www.aimtire.com/typ_category....&ObjectID=6828 |
Originally Posted by finger lock
(Post 10537227)
Panda,
A couple of things, you should be able to dial out your push by adjusting the AOA on your wing. I have the same wing and am running it at 0° AOA in the center. (3.5 inch front splitter, 285/30/18 R6 F&R) Your tires...I'm not a big fan of the R888s. I believe you would do much better with a set of Hoosier R6s, Goodyear Eagle RSs or perhaps the BF Goodrich G-force R1s (I don't know about the BFGs on a FD). Be patient on the track, the speed will come with seat time. Best, Guy You're definitely right about seat time...I did find that tweaking my driving and learning the track always shaves off the most time. Been to SOW 4 times and with no wing/splitter managed to work from low 1:30's to 1:26.5 w/passenger and 130F tires temps...first time button couple weeks ago managed 2:09 with a new set up and passenger...I know the car easily has 1:50's. Can't wait to learn that track some more. By the way, what are your spring rates? I'm still on 10K/8K Koni/GC |
Panda,
My spring rates are 1100 lb/in F, 1000 lb/in R. I forget about that "rules stuff" sometimes. For good or bad I run in an unlimited class. Guy |
Originally Posted by PandazRx-7
(Post 10537108)
Any one know what tire pressures work well with R888's? Can't seem to get the temps above 150F degrees on 70F degree days...
AND we're running a 205's and 225's so the wider tires might like something else. the R888's are good but they like a smooth driver. |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 10539150)
150F is cold.. we let the tire temps set our pressures, and we run pressures in the 33-36 area. this seems to be backwards from what everyone else does.
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Originally Posted by gkmccready
(Post 10539219)
What kind of temps do you see?
if they are sliding it around, it'll be higher still, like 210... we roadrace, and we take temps on the white flag lap, so its like 10-12 minute session |
does anybody know how wide you can fit in the front without the tires rubbing on the fender well? and in the rear without having to tub the fenders?
thanks |
^^^^^
sorry for the double post, thought I was still in the 3rd gen section. but this would be on a 93 |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 10539150)
150F is cold.. we let the tire temps set our pressures, and we run pressures in the 33-36 area. this seems to be backwards from what everyone else does.
AND we're running a 205's and 225's so the wider tires might like something else. the R888's are good but they like a smooth driver. Thanks for all the input guys, a lot of good info here. |
Originally Posted by PandazRx-7
(Post 10539493)
I've tried 32 to 42 hot and still can't get them hot enough... I'm running 550/400lb springs, which I know are considered pretty soft for serious tracking. I'm thinking of going 700lb up front and throwing the 550's in the back. Will stiffer springs help with getting enough heat?
Thanks for all the input guys, a lot of good info here. if you go back to the paddock and get out and then do it, it has enough time to cool down, that it won't show you anything useful. in my experience the tire temp has more to do with lap time than anything else. if the driver is slow, they will be cold, if the driver is sliding the car around too much, it'll be too hot. |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
(Post 10540230)
how/when are you measuring temps? for road racing you NEED the probe type temp thing, and you NEED to pull in to the pits HOT and have someone else take temps.
if you go back to the paddock and get out and then do it, it has enough time to cool down, that it won't show you anything useful. in my experience the tire temp has more to do with lap time than anything else. if the driver is slow, they will be cold, if the driver is sliding the car around too much, it'll be too hot. |
Originally Posted by PandazRx-7
(Post 10540450)
I have a Longacre tire pyrometer with probe, displays all 12 temps at once. At SOW, my passenger jumped out and read temps as soon as I exited the track...probably less 20 seconds after my last hard turn. Sooo I guess I'm slow huh? :)
the solution for us (its FWD) was a rear sway bar that's as big as your leg.... the cool part about fighting the car for so long though is NOW when we wanna make changes, we know what does what |
Fast comes with confidence in knowing what your car can handle and pushing it close to the limit. My advice is to go square on the tires, set the corner weights, do a proper alignment and then find a track with a few corners with pavement run-out areas so you can push it. My favorite is a local airport track, lots of run-off space for when it goes bad. Get out there and slowly work up to speed and get a feel for what the car likes for turn in and when/where it settles into a steady cornering state. Learn when you can put the power down and how soon you can roll into the throttle (turbo cars require inputs a little ahead of the actual track to compensate for the turbo coming back on boost after a lift entering a corner.
Once you feel comfortable it is time to start pushing the car. In my experience, the steady cornering traction will surprise you, stay calm and keep the inputs smooth. Push the braking later, but ensure the car enters the corner balanced. I've seen too many guys who blaze into a corner, scrub off a ton of speed and have no momentum out of the corner. Most corners I'll give a little extra speed up in braking just to get on the power sooner. I also like to keep a tiny bit of a safety margin for those unexpected events like brake failure. When it is a full on race, the safety margin gets pretty small and the mid corner prayers go up a lot. -Trent |
Panda,
I saw that you were thinking of making a rear wing adjustment. I would caution you not to make "large" adjustments all at one time. Changing from an AOA (at the center) of 7 degrees to 0 degrees with the APR GTC 300 will result in reduction of rear downforce. See Data I would recommend a few small adjustments to avoid going from a push condition to a very loose condition. Guy |
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