It sure is incredible though. Easy is for the weak.

Was rebuilding the Ford diff last night and forgot a shim on the pinion, which meant I had to pull the bearing off - wrecking the bearing. New bearing incoming.

that shim sets the pinion depth... so you'll need to take it on and off until you get it right.

most people use a crappy/used bearing and grind down the ID of the bearing so it just slips on so they can test with it.


or you can get a setup like this which relocates the shim to the other side.
Severe Duty Pinion Shims

You can also get a solid pinion spacer from Ratech. It makes changing a pinion seal a snap if you ever have to. You never have to deal with the crush sleeve.

Well the Surtrack (SURTRACK FD8170) Ford axles I ordered don't work for this. The bear is a red one too small to fit the Ronin axles. Very annoying since I had to take these new axles apart to figure that out.

I would order used OE axles on eBay.

Yeah looking for used OEM now.


Meanwhile, the Miata, with 40k miles, needs a rear wheel bearing. This job sucked.

My version of fuller house

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3aa682e74d.jpg

I did a thing

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bfaa37f083.jpg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e489e43e52.jpg

17x10 +25 offset. Needs a spacer to clear the springs in the front.

That'll work! What do you need about 15mm or so?

Yeah, going to order up 4 spacers and longer wheel studs too

I hate doing that.. The ARP 3.25 studs are $32 a side.

that's what I have for my street wheels :)

but their +35s... with 315s on them lol.

I'm running 30mm spacers on front and 20mm on the back and it's pretty close... (because of the tires)



why did you swap? I thought your old wheels were decently big 15s? 15s and 16s are a good slick size... 17 I didn't think was. (I could be wrong). do they make a 23-24" slick for a 17?

I have 15x10 steelies.

These are a little lighter and with the 5.14 gears I don't need a 22.6" diameter tire. I can get 275/35-17 A7s, which are 24.6"

These also clear the brake calipers much better around the basket area and I got the full set with tires - that will be given away - for $400

Good deal..

Freezer is full of wheel bearings as a contingency plan for a "While I'm in there" situation while installing my new ARP extended wheel studs. (Thanks J-Auto)

Spacers got dropped off at the machine shop to get a little tuneup to fit more nicely.

Meanwhile, I need to get off my ass and get the shop to finish up my rear diff, because my driveshaft FINALLY shipped yesterday. Apparently it takes more than a month to manufacture a carbon fiber driveshaft.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...32031cdf14.jpg

Fronts = easy. Rears = UGH

Rule #1: If it's apart, it gets cleaned and painted before going back on the car.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...76a2abc5d5.jpg

Do you have a blasting cabinet, or are you using some other method of cleaning?

elbow grease. Blast cabinet is on the "to-get" list.

Rear subframe and diff is all out to get cleaned up and prepped for the Ford unit.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4fd4d5820a.jpg

Fresh and clean once more.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7b801f4961.jpg

I only clean stuff when it comes off, I don't repaint. but my car is a California car, so there is really only dirt, no rust.

She's not rusty - never seen winter - but 30 years of aluminum oxidation would take forever to polish out. Much easier to give it a good clean and a shot of paint to protect.

Meanwhile -

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dff0494f8d.jpg

I know when that driveshaft bling. That can only mean one thing.

Re-doing the fuel system while the rear suspension is all out. Much easier to access. Switching from braided -6 to lightweight aeroquip 8

I enjoy knowing there is a protective coat of oxidation on all my raw aluminium parts. :lol: Looking good.

Finished refreshing the diff and installing my gears and LSD last night. Might actually have this in the car this weekend!