Fuel Cell Install Help SCCA Rules too
 

OK Im Puting in a fuel cell in a 2gen

I want to know how other people has done this. I have an Idea of how I want to do it just want so other Ideas too

I am down the line going to Put a cage in it too like winter time for next sesson

And the rules for SCCA regulations for mounting the fuel cell.

Thanks A lot!

Joe

You can't get a cheap RCI or similar cell. You'll need something like ATL or Fuel Safe. I had a 12gal ATL cell mounted by a very famous RX7 shop who also advertises on this forum, I won't name names though. They mounted it with (2) 1" metal straps that run horizontal with the car, almost like a U shape. The bottom of the cell had a 1" angle iron box built for it. There was a small 8" or so hole in the deck area to access the filler and a lid to cover this area. My first decent "off track" excursion and the fuel cell detached from the car and ended up 20' feet away. Fortunately, no other major problems other than the cell was trashed, could have been a fire.

Second time around, new 12 gal ATL cell and a long time race shop mounted it by cutting a hole in the rear deck area so the cell sets in from topside. They then reinforced the edges on the underside with angle iron. The cell then bolts through the anlge iron. The weight of the cell is supported by the rear deck and reinforced with the angle iron. The whole cell is covered by an aluminum box that is the dimensions of the cell and about 4" high. It has a hinged door on it to access the filler and the whole thing is removable to service the cell. I don't have any worries of it getting hit or detaching from the car now. Pics upon request.

I do have concerns about losing stiffness in the chasis with such a big hole cut for the cell but it's behind the rear shocks and that area is reinforced by the cage anywayws. My concerns may or may not be valid, it's too late now as the hole is cut... at least the cell isn't leaving the car again. My car is a 2nd Gen.

Go here to read the rules on fuel cells: http://www.scca.com/_FileLibrary/File/GCR2007.pdf

9.3.26, GCR p. 79

BTW... You don't need a fuel cell for solo or even club racing in IT.

The SCCA rules are in the GCR. Check the SCCA site (www.scca.com), and click on "Club Racing -> Cars and Rules".

The main one to pay attention to is the requirement for a "bulkhead" to cover the fuel cell. You can't leave the top of the cell exposed to the drivers compartment.

-bill

I plan on next year doing some track Events like solo2 AND others

Im putting the cell in because my stock gas tank is rusted shut and no way in hell opening in and didnt want to buy a new one and didnt want to use a used one.

Im doing a LS1 swap too

If you can get pics that would be great!!

This is a 12 Gal ATL cell.

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/6923/pict0116uv4.jpg

http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/7069/pict0118um1.jpg

http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/1438/pict0117eo6.jpg


Here is the cell that detached from the car when I went off track into some grass. It was installed by a shop who thinks they are the king of rotaries. As you can see, they don't know jack about installing fuel cells... scary thing is they do race cars though. A new cell wasn't cheap.

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9...ct0047axm3.jpg

your in dallas so it can only be one of two places.

If it wouldnt be trouble could you get more pics that would be great!!

more specifically, pics of what area?

Well Never mind I thnk i have a setup it mind i hope it will be legal for SCCA use

Here is how ours sits. Please note, the vent hose has since been extended and goes out through the old fuel door.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...CT5792-web.jpg

I'll see if I can get photos of how it is mounted underneath. It mounts up to the floor from under it with a whole bunch of Grade 8 bolts, and I'll see if I can get some photos of how it's done.

The car has had some off track excursions before we had it, one of which ripped off the exhaust, and the cell stayed in there and survived just fine. Note, there is now an aluminum fire barrier built over it with a door that we open to fuel it. The fuel pump is now located above the floor along with the filter as well, under the fire barrier, as seen in my inital drawing for the plan for the fire barrier here:

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...irebarrier.jpg

Cool Thanks for that

An under car Shot and mounting shots would be nice

I think im going to build a cage around the bottom of it too Kinda like a late model/ bush car then drill a hole to fill it keeping the fuel pump and stuff underneath Then making a box like you did for it.

We put our fuel pump on top because we simply had no room around the cell for the new pump we installed. It's a very tight fit!

Some people build almost a "basket" under it of tubing that the cell sits in, then they bolt down the cell to the floor.

I'll get some photos of underneath the car if I have a chance tonight.

Cool Thank You Very Much Wile im Waiting on my Trany im finding more shit to fab up haha when i need to be working on the body

Mark, it's been a while... but didnt your cell attach with fabricated straps like the stock method (well... stock on first gens, dont know off hand how second gens mount)? I don't remember being particularly scared about the mounting method, other than it not being the way I've done it every time I've installed one (like you've got it now, I suspect).

Chris, I found a pic of how it was installed when I got the project car. The only thing I think I have now that came with the car when I bought it is the sheet metal! DO NOT mount like the cell below, costly and could have been dangerous experience. The cell pictured here is the same one all beat up a few posts earlier. My new cell "drops in" from the top.

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/127/1f3dj5.jpg

I should have clarified early, yes you are correct.

Mark that cell looks like it's mounted just fine. It's amazing to me that it came out. I guess the attachment point of the strapping was not very secure.

looking at that it looks like mine would be over kill so that makes me happy!!

Thanks for the pictures ill post some up when im done

The cell ended up 20' away from the car when the rear got loose and I went off track exiting Horseshoe at MSR. No contact with other cars and theres nothing but grass off the paved surface, it was Easter day 2007. Something so minor I don't think should have caused the cell to come off, maybe it was too low? I should add that the 1" straps (2) of them were still attached to the car, but the cell was gone - it wasn't one of the 4 attachment points where the straps attached to the car. I don't have a good explanation, I wish I did. The 2 straps were almost "pulled apart" which would then allow the cell to drop.

Were the straps not attached to the basket around the cell's bottom?

apparently not. If you look close in the picture you'll see no connections.

I remember now -- that frame around the bottom was riveted to the cell case, and not attached to the straps at all. The straps were cheap steel, like fencing material and not connected to each other. IIRC, the cell was stood away from the rear sheet metal by some rods for some unknown reason, and attached to stock looking points with factory looking fastners. I'll put in that it looked fine to me at the time, albeit not the way I would mount it.

My guess as to the cause was some sort of direct hit to the cell/straps, which bent or broke those standoffs, and let the cell slip out the bottom. I'm vaguely remembering those standoffs looked like they were stick welded, and not very well.

HTH, maybe that supports one of your theories.

EDIT: found of picture of the strap attachments, but evidently I didn't take a picture of the underside of the car with the cell out (thought I did... might've lost it in a drive crash or something)

http://taylorrotorsports.com/project...TS/ITS 006.jpg

Yeah it doesn't seem like the fact that it was bottom mounted was the problem, more like the way that it was done. Ours is bottom mounted, but it's in there very very well.

btw, I know i haven't gotten pics yet, there's a bunch of crap behind the car and I have to jack it up.

Hey I dont want to make you rush its not that important

But thanks for thinking about it

OK the Time has Come

Im trying to figure out how to make a fuel tight access door to get to my fuel filler cap for my fuel cell.

I know that the tank need to be spreate from drivers compartment so how do you access the filler cap?

any ideas?

here is what I have so far,
Attachment 719735
Attachment 719736
Attachment 719737
Attachment 719738
Attachment 719739
Attachment 719740
Attachment 719741
Attachment 719742
The Top is Alum and will be beadrolled for strangth then bolted down with 1/4" hex head bolts spaced 2inchs apart all the way around with an RTV Gasket to make sure it is sealed.

The rules do not require the fuel door to be fuel tight. All they are trying to do is to keep fuel from sloshing into the driver’s compartment. Most people just have a hinged sheet metal door in the panel that covers the cell. I used an aluminum door that pivots open on one bolt and is held in place with another bolt with a nutsert.
Dick Patullo

I just bought some aluminum angle from Home depot to make an edge that hangs down.

Here's ours. Like was said above, it's not fuel/air tight, just a fire break with the suppression nozzle inside.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/PICT6642.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/PICT6643.jpg
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h1...t/PICT6644.jpg

Made from sheet aluminum.

The rest of our cell is below the floor.

I sent you a reply to the PM. Similar to the others, a hinged access door and I use a Dzus wing head fastener to keep it closed.

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/5746/pict0045mn7.jpg

Wow you guys, Speedy Reply!!

Thanks so much that make it 10X easyer i always thought it had to be fuel/water Proof,



I guess ill just make a door with 1/4" turn fastener i have laying around and maybe ill put some foam stick on weather stripping aroung the door to make it some what tight fit.

Im using this cheap cell for now but next year im going to upgrade to a ATL Cell ,

Thanks for the pictures

My first race is in 2 week and the car wont be in paint oopes
but every thing else will be done (i hope).

Thanks again you guys.

Why didn't you paint your fuel cell "basket" after you welded it? The rust is not good for welded joints. Granted this will not be a problem for a couple years, but $3 at home depot could have made the project look a lot nicer and prevent a failure a few years down the road from the corroded joints.

It would help if I read the threads before replying to PM! The actual rule verbiage is below, you'll see nothing about "air tight", "water tight", etc.

GCR 339: "In any automobile where allowed removal of rear seats, upholstery, etc., creates an opening between the driver/passenger compartment and an exposed gas tank, fuel cell, or part thereof, a metal bulkhead which completely fills such opening shall be installed (See GCR 9.3.26.1.)"

9.3.26.1 - Internal body panels may be modified to accommodate the installation of fuel cells as long as modifications serve no other purpose. In the event If installation includes encroachment into the driver’s compartment, a metal bulkhead must prevent exposure of the driver to the fuel cell. The fuel cell must not be installed any closer to the ground than 6 inches, unless enclosed within the bodywork or OEM floor pan.
a. There must be a metal bulkhead between the driver/passenger compartment and the compartment containing the fuel cell. This includes fuel cells that are flush mounted with driver/ passenger compartment panels or otherwise exposed to the driver/passenger compartment.
b. Fuel cells must be located within 12 inches of the standard tank. The 12- inch measurement is taken from the perimeter of the stock and alternative fuel cell. Fuel filler location is unrestricted with installation of a safety fuel cell.

Yeah thats what i thought

I must have been thinking to much in to it
I figured that in case of a roll over that it would have to be air/leak proof

Thanks for your help

I did grind down the joints when did the welding but the new weld that you are seeing and wider then that had to be

What i did was i let the whole thing rust so i could use PUR15 It sticks better to rust that clean metal

We use this stuff all the time on all of our resto/ custom projects Its think and last forever! and will NOT come off your hands, Only with time will it come off

this thread is neat.

what fuel pump are you using toysport?

Holley Blue Electric.