Originally Posted by Josh18_2k
(Post 11428292)
looks like the upper arm is longer than lower? that seems unlikely to have any kinda of decent camber gain unless you run a subterranean roll center
if you're mounting it to the stock wheel well sheet metal it looks like you'll have pretty positive camber all the time also. |
I am guessing he is going through the wheel-well and putting brackets on top of the stock frame which might get mighty close to the steering linkages!
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What kingpin inclination angle are you running? Also did you put the control arm pickup points/lengths/balljoint loactions into any suspension software to check roll center at normal ride height and various other heights as well as the camber gain curve?
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Originally Posted by BLUE TII
(Post 11425847)
I remember seeing pics of a 510 with double wishbone front based off of FC parts years ago online. Wonder if I can find it again.
I remember seeing it, and thinking "Bad Idea." when I saw how he put the springs and shocks on the lower arms. I don't think the FC ball joint would handle tension loads very well, usually suspensions that load the control arm like that will have ball joints at least twice as large. |
Where did you go Chops? We need more details! ;-)
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Originally Posted by Travis R
(Post 11435050)
Where did you go Chops? We need more details! ;-)
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Originally Posted by abeomid
(Post 11428834)
I am guessing he is going through the wheel-well and putting brackets on top of the stock frame which might get mighty close to the steering linkages!
As for geometry, looking for -7 caster, with the aforementioned camber gain profile. Shortness of the arm is going to make that tricky, although I had a discussion this weekend with a top flight STC driver who goes from -6 to -11 in 2 inches up front, so maybe it will work ok- |
I estimated that 2" of bump/droop at the tire is about 5 degrees of chassis roll. Feel free to double check my numbers though.
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Need some dimensions, pulled the motor before I decided on this route. Can anyone provide a rough dimension of the distance from the frame-rail to the engine? Bonus points if you can provide the dimension from the firewall to the spark plug locations and the amount of intrusion the plugs have- :)
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PM sent
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Movement again, but no pics yet. Strut tower is getting cut out, and a a tubular coilover/upper arm pickup structure is being attached to the frame rail. The thought of just cutting the front of the car off has crossed my mind...
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Originally Posted by ChopsMcgraw
(Post 11440495)
Need some dimensions, pulled the motor before I decided on this route. Can anyone provide a rough dimension of the distance from the frame-rail to the engine? Bonus points if you can provide the dimension from the firewall to the spark plug locations and the amount of intrusion the plugs have- :)
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Originally Posted by ChopsMcgraw
(Post 11448371)
Movement again, but no pics yet. Strut tower is getting cut out, and a a tubular coilover/upper arm pickup structure is being attached to the frame rail. The thought of just cutting the front of the car off has crossed my mind...
Eric |
Originally Posted by ChopsMcgraw
(Post 11448371)
Movement again, but no pics yet. Strut tower is getting cut out, and a a tubular coilover/upper arm pickup structure is being attached to the frame rail. The thought of just cutting the front of the car off has crossed my mind...
You can see it in the following pictures: http://www.lamanracing.com/wp-conten...7/img_0799.jpg http://www.lamanracing.com/wp-conten...7/img_0800.jpg |
Sorry for the second post: let me warn you that if you continue on this path, you will wish you just did a tube-chassis and put an FC body on it. All that is left of my car is 1/4 of the original firewall and the roof... haha
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So, this is moving slow. Project is active again, pics pending. Got the drivers side tacked on, pic to be posted shortly.
Rethinking the FP thoughts as I'be been spoiled by 5.0 coyote power in ESP this year, debating whether or not to go with a renesis or get killed by Fred with a turbo 13b or LSX. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by ChopsMcgraw
(Post 11742179)
So, this is moving slow. Project is active again, pics pending. Got the drivers side tacked on, pic to be posted shortly.
Rethinking the FP thoughts as I'be been spoiled by 5.0 coyote power in ESP this year, debating whether or not to go with a renesis or get killed by Fred with a turbo 13b or LSX. |
I was looking at a Miata being scrapped out and saw that their front subframe holds both upper/lower arms and steering rack.
Seems like Miata would be good candidate for double wishbone conversion. http://i54.tinypic.com/14vod8k.jpg Looks like you would have to chop the FC front unibody to clear the upper arm mounts. |
the miata subframe doesn't hold the rotary that well either, maybe FC subframe, and miata arms/hubs/etc?
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Chops, how are you attaching the coilover on the bottom? Hopefully not to the lower control arm, like before.
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Originally Posted by Travis R
(Post 11743821)
Chops, how are you attaching the coilover on the bottom? Hopefully not to the lower control arm, like before.
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Originally Posted by ChopsMcgraw
(Post 11743900)
Lol, why yes we are. We think it will be strong enough. If it bends we'll have to rethink the mount, mebbe build a mount structure off of the spindle adapter, which means shortening the shocks. Could build lower arms as well I suppose.
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No way will the FC's lower ball joint handle all suspension loads, you'll definately want to rethink that joint. Its a section of ~1/2"x1.5" flat bar... Relatively low resistance to bending. If anything, you'll want to weld a vertical web lengthwise along the ball joint, or something like that.
Switching to a tubular arm with (larger) ball joint would make more sense. Good 'ole circle track parts ;-) |
I'm not worried about bending the ball joint holder, where it connects to the lower control arm. I'm worried about the ball joint stud connection to the spindle. It only held in place by a small amount of clamping force from a single bolt... what maybe a 10-24 bolt? The only vertical forces it has to withstand in the stock configuration is from the sway bar. But now you're running ALL vertical spring/damping forces through a joint that's meant to handle mainly lateral forces. I'd put money on the ball joint pulling out of the bottom of the spindle.
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