Ka RX7?
Insane Stance and Offset
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Seymour Johnson Air Force Base, NC
theyre not horrible. n/a is kind of pushing it. the only big downfall other than the lack of power is that the power they have isnt in the right spot in the power band. you be initiating your drift at like 5-6k rpms. where as in my old sr/rb/ca cars i could easilly initiate at like 23-2700 rpms or something along those lines. and also if youre looking to slide look into getting dtss eliminators
RX7 1986-1992: Suspension - Components: Rear Susp Upright Toe Eliminator - 86-92 RX-7 -
RX7 1986-1992: Suspension - Components: Rear Susp Upright Toe Eliminator - 86-92 RX-7 -
NA or turbo would not matter in your case. As with any foreign engine swap, your dealing with a **** load of work. It's probably best to see what people have done to swap an ls engine. In every swap case, it's probably not worth it money wise, it's probably not road legal, and its ruining one of the only rotary powered vehicles. Just buy a 240 if you want a ka. They are similar to the rx7 and are cheap enough. It will save you a butt load of money, and you can let some one e,se enjoy your rotary powered rx7. 

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Insane Stance and Offset
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Seymour Johnson Air Force Base, NC
its essentially the same as any other swap for a non rotary. new mounts/harnesses/rear end maybe/ exhaust. all sorts of fun stuff. it all just matters what exactly your price range and patience is. they make kits for ls swaps. they dont make **** for a ka swap or my sr swap :/ thats ALL custom/expensive parts
Being "possible" and being "practical" are two different things.
Swapping engines- I mean actually bolting a different drivetrain into the chassis- is the easiest part of such a project and only the beginning of a successful outcome.
It's difficult to imagine the scope of an engine swap until you've done it, the side effects extend to every nook and cranny of the car and as the saying goes, "The devil is in the details".
It's the (seemingly) trivial that dooms most major projects like an engine swap, the initial elation that the engine/trans is in place (which, in the case of an LSx swap, takes about 3 hours) soon gives way to the realization that absolutely nothing works/fits and the real labor (and to a certain extent, cost) has just begun.
It would be useful to study an empty FC engine bay/trans tunnel and see how asymmetrical and convoluted it really is. All of the weird bumps and recesses are there to clear components of the stock drivetrain, components that are most likely in a different spot on the new setup.
What looks like a vast empty space (and the FC does have a very roomy bay) suddenly gets very crowded when you see that your new exhaust occupies the same space as the steering shaft, the oilpan won't clear the steering rack or the intake wants to be where the brake booster sits.
Things can get gnarly pretty quickly.
Swapping engines- I mean actually bolting a different drivetrain into the chassis- is the easiest part of such a project and only the beginning of a successful outcome.
It's difficult to imagine the scope of an engine swap until you've done it, the side effects extend to every nook and cranny of the car and as the saying goes, "The devil is in the details".
It's the (seemingly) trivial that dooms most major projects like an engine swap, the initial elation that the engine/trans is in place (which, in the case of an LSx swap, takes about 3 hours) soon gives way to the realization that absolutely nothing works/fits and the real labor (and to a certain extent, cost) has just begun.
It would be useful to study an empty FC engine bay/trans tunnel and see how asymmetrical and convoluted it really is. All of the weird bumps and recesses are there to clear components of the stock drivetrain, components that are most likely in a different spot on the new setup.
What looks like a vast empty space (and the FC does have a very roomy bay) suddenly gets very crowded when you see that your new exhaust occupies the same space as the steering shaft, the oilpan won't clear the steering rack or the intake wants to be where the brake booster sits.
Things can get gnarly pretty quickly.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 49
From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
You are not going to get the 'best car for drifting' for $700. Period. As for which is a better chassis as-is, I'd say 240. The long wheelbase and larger steering angles make it a better drifter out of the box. The NA 13B power delivery is peaky and that makes it difficult to learn to drift with. It can definitely be done, but it's just a steeper learning curve. Also, while rotaries are very comfortable being spun at high rpm, they don't like to over-rev due to a poor downshift and don't like being overheated. Going sideways is very poor for flow through the radiator. Both those factors affect the 240 engine, but it's a lot cheaper to find a good replacement engine for the 240 than the rx7.
Although it definitely won't be as easy as drifting with an LS, it definitely will be less expensive. and seeing as how your budget for a car is $700, you probably don't have the means of spending $6,000 on a motor swap.
I have personally drifted with my NA. and know of at least 10 other people that do in my area.
I have 205 wide tires in the rear(which helps A LOT) as well as high psi in the rear tires. And even when I don't I can spin the **** out of the wheels still (my old tires were sticky 215/45 Falken Azenis, and they slid NO PROBLEM at low psi)
I'm not saying that drifting an NA FC is ideal, but it is DEFINITELY possible.
Here is my proof. This is Arquin, he is a member here. His car is NA and he can do this no problem.

This guy has done it https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226...ka-fc-1002569/ Send a PM or something and ask how hard it was
Regardless of what engine you choose, everything Clokker says is true about an engine swap. If the engine is fuel injected, you need some knowledge to do the wiring. I have no experience with an FC swap, but have done some in FBs and various other cars. Everyone says the RB20 swap I just did would be an great drift car, but I have no interest, just built is as a daily driver. If you are a good welder, have experience doing metal fabrication, and good mechanical skills, or have a friend who has these skills, go for it. Otherwise, just go buy a Mustang.
These photos might be of interest:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/393602...7/#39360254003
These photos might be of interest:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/393602...7/#39360254003
I can tell you that I will never buy a mustang. I'm an import guy all the way. It would be a disgrace to even sit in one. and I wouldn't buy one to drift I would buy it to wreck.



[More weight, same power, worse balance]




