I boxed the firewall so i could access the CAS, clear the fittings for the VC breather, and make the car easier to work on. Access of trans bolts, pulling head, etc will be easier with it notched.

 

Thermostate housing is a modified stock one.

 

Did u use a 1g head or 2g head with the kiggly set up?

 

1g

 

^ pm'd you for further info on CAS elimination thanks

 

Well you could share the CAS elimination info! 8)

 

Mounted the turbo and made the LICP today.

 

Kigglyracing.com has the crank trigger kit which eliminates the Cam sensor.

http://kigglyracing.com/parts/cranktrigger.htm

 

She lives! Still have a lot of buttoning up to do but it runs.

 

Congrats!

 

looks good! Shouldn't have any cooling issues now!

Hope that RX-7 transmission can take the abuse....

 

Now post up some completed build picts!

 

Thanks. Im only looking to make 550-600whp so it should be ok as per Ari Yallon. If its not then I'll figure something out. I've been building DSM/Evo/Subaru race transmissions for 12 years so rebuilding it/strengthening it shouldn't be an issue.

 

Once its all buttoned up and wet sanded/buffed out I will. I'm waiting for my Enkie RPF1's to get here so I can have them powdercoated black. Gonna be a few weeks before its roadworthy but I would like to put it on the dyno by the end of the week. Right off the lift and onto the dyno, just the way I like to break a motor in.

 

Was oil filter base did you use? Is it a remote mount. Got any close ups? I through my 4g63 mock up motor in my 87 yesterday and it looks like I may have some filter issue with the rack

 

I used a 1990 oil filter housing. Didnt get to dyno the car Friday but I am going to try to put it on Monday if we have time. I took the car home for the weekend. Felt good to drive it after 11months. Haha!

 

Here are some pics of the car. I still have to finish assembling some of the interior, exterior, and wet sand/buff. We stopped the dyno at 520whp since the knock sensor was not working and we didn't want to push the car on 93 octane till it starts working.

 

Qluminum rods are good for race cars but for street i wouldnt use them. Just make sure you warm the motor up before anything aluminum rods have to be warmed up so they can expand witch also brings me to the next thing why aluminum rods are used mostly on track cars is because they have a fycle life. Meaning they can be turned on for example 200 times and shut down 200 times because the rods will strech and shink. and after the cycle limit you have to tear the motor down and inspect the rods to see if thwy are still in spec.

 

I love this swap by the way in a few years an fd with a 13b is going to be very rare.

 

Awesome work man! Best swap for a 7 to hell with those damn v8's lol. I wonder how much weight this swap adds? Keep up the good work. We need a vid of this beast running and a burnout lol.

 

Better than a V8! But you took an engine out that some uneducated folk think is unreliable and put an engine in that most know is unreliable... Why 4g63 out of curiosity?

 

We have been running aluminum rods in street cars for 3-4 years now. Some of these cars have 30-40k miles on them without issues. Our race car had over 150 passes @60lbs of boost and we sent the rods back to GRP to be checked. The rods checked out ok and were put back in the car. That was two years ago.

 

Uneducated people think the 4G63 is unreliable too. I have been building 4G63's for 14 years now so thats why I chose this motor. My old race car went 4 years on the same motor. I easily had 400-500 passes on the motor. Guys are making over 600whp on the stock block and there are multiple stock motor 9 second Evo/DSM's out there. I have built countless full weight evos making 550-600whp on pump gas that trap 133-135mph. These cars are all going for 2-3 years on the same engine.

 

Nice

 

Very nice