hi I was wondering are any of you guys using the ebay ks racing 2jz mounts for an fd? if so how do you like them. I cant afford the tech 2 ones so these ebay ones are my options. thanks

 

I have two ways of looking at this:

I'm cheap too, so I'd probably try it... BUT if you are going to be doing a swap wouldn't you rather get all the parts from one guy? I mean you are going to need a Drive shaft, and a shifter extension (idk with that kit)...

Hell, try it and let us know how the swap goes!

 

I bought a set.
It's really good for placing the engine in the bay while designing around it.

That's what I did.
Now that I'm done with them, I'm selling them.

Was gonna sell them for $200, but will drop them to $150 plus shipping. I know OP was interested in them last week.

 

nice looking manifold mk3 brent! care to sell just the tranny mount?

 

It didn't fit, and you wouldn't have wanted it anyway.
I threw it out.

 

Not to be a downer, but if you cant afford the Tech2 Kit, and cant fabricate the mounts yourself, I suggest looking for a different project.

Make a list of all the parts you need and the cost, add it up. Take that number and double it, because thats how much it will actually cost you in the end.

Best of luck on your project if you decide to go this route. If done properly, worth it in the end!

 

to mk3 brent ,, how did it sit in the car is it like the tech 2 kit?

 

2" lower than a tech2 kit.
Stock hood would clear.

Steering rack location would be 2" lower however.


No matter how you do it, the 2J swap will be expensive.
I'm in over $15,000 right now, but I'm doing it right.

This time staying away from crooks and crappy workmanship.

 

hows the quality of the of the brackets? good welds?

 

Not bad actually.
I'm assuming arc welded.

Here are some close ups:

 

/signed

Truest statement of the year right there.

Should bring a little reality to the 2JZ-FD dreamers out there.

There's a reason why so few people have the swap. Either cost and/or fabrication involved. lol

I'm probably about $6,000-$8,000 into the build, myself.

I got my 2JZ-GE motor out of a high mileage SC300 for cheap, where-as most people would go with an Aristo 2JZ-GTE...So overall my initial costs weren't much to get started.

I will say too, that I got a helluva deal on my fabrication..ONLY because the fabricator worked with my brother at a previous shop. Anywhere else, I can't imagine how much a fabricator would want for the level of time and effort involved.

I've spent easily $3,000+ in parts and misc. items at the moment. Custom driveshaft, turbo manifold, injectors, S-AFC Neo, clutch/flywheel, R154 bellhousing to name a few... Parts add up quick in this swap.

And now, I'm having to pay someone who finish up cleaning up some odds and ends too, fine-tuning, driveability aspects, that kinda stuff.

The fabricator and my brother are no longer working on it. Hopefully he doesn't want anymore than another $1,500 or something. x_X

 

um i talk to the guys that sells them they said next week they gonna have the fc3s kit ,im waiting on funds to get them ,im gonna get a ge motor its way cheaper that route

 

NA-T has it's Pro's and Con's my friend. You're really better off getting the Aristo 2JZ for like $1,200....R154 for like $400, clutch/flywheel, and be done with it.

I would have gone with an Aristo 2JZ myself, but with my brother and fabricator in on the swap, it made more sense (at the time).

 

^ i probaly ill run it n/a for a bit ,work out bugs thing like that, i been finding 2jz n/a motors for around 400 to 900 dollars tho

 

Considering the cost of the subframe/mounts/etc. is still gonna cost you a fortune, you might as well spend the extra money to buy an Aristo 2JZ-GTE for like $1,200-$1,500, throw on a simple single-turbo setup, and be done with it....I can guarantee you'd be a lot happier doing that, then first making an NA 2JZ-GE setup even WORK in your car, and THEN have to worry later about making it handle a turbo application.

 

Yea I'm wondering too. Since it lowers the subframe 2" it lowers the steering rack and changes the angle of the control arms, which you could possibly correct with camber but it's got to seriously change the handling characteristics of the car. :scratch not to mention the added weight of the motor. Can anybody shed some light on this?

 

All else constant, you can see the total percent change of tie rod angle.

The unknowns are the amount of travel the suspension has once lowered as well. Bump steer is accentuated with the amount of travel. When the spring rate changes, and the wheel no longer has the same amount of travel; What does this mean to the bump-steer condition?

I don't know.
I don't have enough experience to say what the results would be.

All I know, is I didn't want to move my rack 2". (KS kit does.)
To clear the stock hood, you need at least that much.

Notice the tie rod in my picture here, it's close to parallel with the ground with a total suspension drop of 1.5"

 

do you have any pics of how you installed it. Also it seems they changed their kit slightly.

Left mount it’s 3 inches forward of the right side

Whole motor sits crooked