2jz FC
 

so i got tired of rotarys due to my last build. so im going a different route, i have my 2jz sittin in front of my 89 TII,

whats in the car as of now from the last build that will stay is
aeromotive a1000 fuel pump and regulater (-10an from tank to pump, -8an from pump to fuel rail, -6an from the regluater back to tank), greddy fmic, inovate water temp, oil pressure, and boost guage as well as wideband.

stuff i have for the motor already
-garrett gt40 turbo
-twin tial 44mm wastegates
-6x 1000 cc injectors
-rear sump oil pan and pick up off of a 1jz
-4in builders kit for my exhaust
-1jz 5speed R154 trans
-full rebuild kit
-arp head studs
-pilot bearing

stuff needed still
-fuel rail
-tubomanifold (will be making)
-standalone, this im not sure about, lots of choices. someone point me in the right direction please lol
-clutch set up + flywheel (shits expensive ughh)
-custom drive shaft

ill start posting pics as soon as i really start to work on this project as im finishing up a v8 project at the moment as well.

lets hear what you guys think

i wanna see how you deal with the motor height issue of the 2J, dry sump or huge hood bulge :rofl:

oh i plan on droping the subframe just like doin a v8 swap, then building my mounts as low as possible, ill see when i get there really. i have hoods galore so i can destroy them if need be too lol. i didnt think it was "that" much taller than a 1j

V8 FCs don't alter the factory subframe, FYI.

You could raise the back of the hood with spacers, cut the hood and put a drop vent in for more clearance or just cut the skeleton and see where that gets you.

It should be fine.

droppin the subframe or lower mounts def seems like a cheaper option than dry sump, cant wait to see it done...and ya the angle of the pistons on a V8 make it short enough to clear a NA FC hood, inline 6s are just taller

yes you do...with ford 302 fuel injected motors, i know cause i just did that swap in another car lol. not all v8's require it yes but some do.

im gonna deal with this clearance issue when it comes up, hopefully i dont have to do more than take out some skeleton support in the hood but ill see

Honesty Earl all you really need is an 0.5"-0.75", it's not really that bad.
Most of the swaps I've seen don't even drop the frame, they just notch
it and re-weld a top plate. Most of the Supra guys end up with a MoTech
standalone, it just seems to be whats popular with them. I've seen quite
a few people in Japan use engine shock dampeners instead of the pricier
gas shocks for propping the hood (I think Top Secret and a few others
sell them for nonspecific car apps.). You can get dampeners for around
35$ per, then make your own brackets.

lost another one to the dark side..... another 7's soul has been destroyed :(

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...3/nopiston.jpg

lol why even look in the other engine conversions section then??

on another note, got all the manifolds off the motor, taking the twins off is a pain in the ass ill tell you what. i also checked out what would be my clearance issue and all i can really see is the front sway bar.

I've always have been intrigued by 2j swaps in FC's, would make an excellent reliable DD.

Good luck with the build.

Am getting ready to do a 2JZ swap to my 89`T2 also. I have my 10th A.E car with a Fd swap. So why not play with a toy motor, I have a good friend of my with a 97` Supra and And small single 60-1, Big intercooler, HKS evc, Carbon-carbon twin disk, hks ignition, we`ve beat the hell out of this car and it still runs like a raped ape, Just change the plugs and oil and keep beating. Am ready to abuse a car like that for my own, even most best built rotarys can`t take the abuse we`ve give this car, Oh did I say the rear end blow once. with slicks.
Hell I say go for it, and GOOD LUCK with your build.

Because he loves hard dick, trolling and hating.

It is a pain Oem turbo/manifold studs suck.

^ indeed

And holy fucking shit check this out!!!!!


https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine-conversions-non-v-8-118/everyone-read-other-engine-conversion-forum-rules-400819/

Who knew?


New rule should be "you will be FUCKING BANNED FOR LIFE for talking such shit in this section"

jz motors are just uber ejaculatoryfantasmgastic. Haters just dont know.

I actually want to see more crazy motor swapping, not less due to people being faggots and making the internet suck harder than it already does.

I'm doing a 1jz swap into my 88 TII AE and I can tell you that even with the engine as low and as far back as I can possibly put it (1/4" between the pan and the subframe), its going to be really close for hood clearance. This is with me cutting the reinforcements out on the underside.

I was considering the 2jz myself, but from my measurements its just under 2" taller than the 1jz. If your going to lower the subframe, be sure to space the steering rack back up to the original height if at all possible. If not be prepared to deal with some bumpsteer.

im about ready to start mocking up the mounts and lookin at all the hight issues, just need to pull the autotrans off and put my manual trans on then is mock up time. once i get everything mocked up im going to make my mounts at work and have my head resurfaced as im taking it off anyways to install my arp head studs. more to come with picutures in the next week or so.

-Earl

Got the same swap going in to my fc... Wondering how the hood is going to fit.. haha

ehh it will fit somehow, still finializing my v8 project then this swap will really kick into gear

in for interest as I am looking into a JZ-swapped FC

havent really worked on it yet, just finished the current project, so now i can hopfully start on this one

you can also cut a 2jz sized hole in the firewall and move the motor back a little. that requires some sheet metal work to enclose the firewall... and it makes it a pita to remove the valve cover but its till possible.

thats what i do for work, im a pressbrake opertor and sheet metal worker so thats a more than do able option for me.

havent really worked on it yet, just finished the current project, so now i can hopfully start on this one

huh? you quoted but no response yo, other project (if thats what the question was gonna be) was a FI ford 302 in a 88 gxl which is probably sold this weekend too:nod:
just bought my act prolite flywheel

heading to the shop this weekend, sold the v8 car so i just ordered
-rps stage 3 6puck clutch able to hold 730ftlb trq
-titian motor sport 272 cams (pretty fucking big)
-BC springs and retainers for the bigger cams
-titian motor sport fuel rail kit
-ffwd connections 1050cc injectors

plan for the weekend is to swap oil pans and just put the manual trans on with no clutch for mock up, maybe stick it in the car and start the mock up process

Thread is useless without pics! Lol.

i agree but i havent even seen my car or motor for like a month lol, goin out sunday and ill start snaping some

you should give us a lil explanation of your wiring conversion. ive researched and from my understanding all you gotta do is splice the jz harness with your charging harness and extend the whole thing. is that what you did?

actually i havent even looked into the wiring, theres a guy here in town with a 1jz rx so i was gonna see what he did, all im thinking it intails is just adding the 12v constant, 12v ing, few grounds and what not. thats really all i had to do with my FI 302 swap.

time for pics, 1) what it looked like when i got it, 2) maifolds off, 3) shot of the work area, 4) found enough bolts to secure it to the stand, 5) r154 trans with 1j bellhousing

and more. 1) front sump pan off just checking out the internals, 2) rear sump on, 3,4) just shots of the car. will be working on it all week hopefully. more pics to come

i finished my 1jz swap about 1 year to 2 years ago, i opted the 1jz mainly for ease of install. i talked to scotiegnx on v8rx7 forum and he is a drag car... runs factory hood with some cutting under neath, says he has a 3/4" spacer. i did not want to run spacers so i went ahead with the 1jz. i skipped the factory wiring and just went straight to standalone. I'm very happy with it.

i have a extremely nice 91 shell, that im going to be droping in another 1jz thinking possibly going to try a vvti.

good luck, and enjoy drving it, i've been so happy with everything about the swap. 300 at the wheels bone stock is nice

some parts that came, my pressure plate and disk also came but i had some wrong iformation so i have to send it back cause i got a 7m "full clutch set" just needed the 7m turbo disk not the pressure plate so hopefully the company will let me exchange the pressure plate for the 1j/2j one, luckly im not needing my clutch installed yet lol.

gonna pull the head off tomorrow and have my buddy that works at a engine rebulding shop stick it on the line and have it surfaced for me in exchange for making his raidiator shround for the crx you see in the pics beside my 7. im also gonna be drawing up some prints of the lower intake gasket and maybe the upper as well so i can machine out nice aluminum flanges for the intake manifold im gonna make (trying to copy the hypertune one) cause i dont wanna shell out the 2-3k for one when i can make one for free at work to my specs :)

I've swapped a 2jzgte into a mk3 supra using a 1jzgte flywheel & the 7mgte clutch disc & pressure plate that's the one I used when running the r154 tranny. sweet build btw

thanks, the pressure plate doenst line up with the dowl or bolt holes on the flywheel so im just gonna get the 2j pp, no biggie

sending back the 2j flywheel and getting a 1jflywheel.

heres some pics
i got the front cover and valve covers off but did pull the head off yet..didnt have the right tools.

had the middle tray thats in between the block and the oil pan powdercoated from a local guy that deals with my work

the pic of the tray is to large to upload i guess..sorry

nice build. if i wasnt in the process of puttingmy 13b back in than id probably be saving for a 1j.....or anothe car haha. keep us updated!!

hey thanks man, im also in process of getting my self a 2j na motor to stick in one of the other shells i have for a great dd car, same mount set up so why not.

went out to the shop today after work, had the right tool to take the head bolts out this time so i poped off the head. my roommates gonna try and get it done for me in the next few weeks so ill be at a slight stand still untill it comes back.

whenever u get some mock up pics id like to see it setting in car, and subframe setup im currently getting parts to start my 2j fc build and just trying to figure out clearance adn how hard it would be to make the crossmembers

yeah there will be pics for sure... so fucking ACT will not take the flywheel back so im out a shit ton of money fml. gonna put it on ebay and take a loss i guess

after A LOT of bitching ACT is taking the flywheel back, yay me. im taking suggestions on valve cover colors.

No another 7 is reborn! JZ series motors are the best reliable hp motor for your buck. Hand Down. Conversation over. :egrin:

Good luck with the swap. I've been running my J for 2 years now. been through 2 Different turbo set ups. Your gonna love how the J feels in the FC.

still waiting for the machine at work to be fixed then my head will be done, side note im starting a ford 4.6L swap with PI heads and intake, along with forged pistions. this will be another garage swap.

my heads finially being done....woooo. some more parts that i got, billit 1jz flywheel along with everything that goes in the trans (had no tb, fork, or mounting braket for the fork lol).
some stuff on the way, unorthodox racing cam gears, kevlar timing belt, usdm water pump.


my head should be done by next week and then i can start putting it all back together...or while i have the bottom end exposed should i do a ring job? suggestions welcome

gonna media blast my valve covers at work and add some -10an fittings and have them powder coated black probably, i made the catch can at work just gotta get the fittings and weld it up

It couldn't hurt to re-ring, hone and do the front and rear mains.

hey if you dont mind me asking. what did you pay in all for the motor, trans, ecu, basically all the stock stuffz and none of the aftermarket stuff.. thanks.

$1300 for the motor and it came with uncut wiring harness and auto trans, bought a rear sump oil pan set up for $100, then got a r154 trans with a 1j bellhousing for $500

cp forged pistions, arp rod bolts, and acl bearing kit on the way wooooo