Hi There,

I am looking for conversion kits to swap a 1jz into my fc.
Are there any options cheaper than the tech2 kit?

To people who have done the build, what are some major issues you have had doing this swap? I am looking for any tips to make my life easier.

I am located in Ontario. If anyone has a swap already and could let me take a look at it that would very appreciated.

Thanks!!

 

Yes, I've done the swap it's fairly since. You can get engine and transmission mounts from https://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com/. I'll break down a few things as the swap is straightforward.

Intercooler Piping: You can use an eBay 1JZ kit and requires little modification to make it work you can make custom brackets for the core with nothing really special needed.
Intake: You can find these on eBay for cheap with the proper MAF housing
Downpipe / Exhaust: Future Fab downpipe fits in with no clearance issues you'll have to get your FC Catback modified to mate to it that will run you $100-200 in fab work at an exhaust shop.
ECU: You need to find a non-immobilized 1JZ ECU these can be found on eBay
Transmission: You can use a W58 or R154 as long as they have a JZ bell housing which you can buy separately you'll be fine.
Clutch Master/Slave Line: The auto to manual 240sx clutch line from ISR fits perfectly as they have the same thread pitch. ISR Performance Auto-Manual Conversion Clutch Line - Nissan 240sx 89-98 - ISR Performance Parts, LLC
Heater Hose: You can source some hose from the auto part store to make it work can't really talk much on that
Radiator Hose: You can use typical 1/2JZ hoses
Radiator: The SR20 radiator is the go-to radiator to run as it requires little modification to make work and easy to make brackets to mount with. You'll want to find a nice electric fan to run, some people use the early 90s Ford Taurus fan it should help with cooling, depends on what you're doing, to be honest.
Driveshaft: You'll have to get a custom driveshaft made I know Xcessive has them just depends on what transmission you want to run, or you can get a local shop to make you one to match your diff flange.
Fuel Pump: A Walboro 255 should be plentiful to power a 1JZ.
Fuel Feed/Return Lines: You can use 5/16" hose to connect them can't remember the length required but buy 6-7 feet and cut it accordingly.
Shifter: the MK4 Supra Tri-pod shifter lines up perfectly into the stock location, you can give that a shot, or go with the Xcessive shifter which extends it quite a bit to line up without having to cut into the trans tunnel. This applies to the W58, the R154 in its stock form since it's slightly longer should line up just fine.

Wiring: You have a few options, this seems to be the trickiest part for most people, in the case of the RX-7 it's a simple chassis to wire up with the 1J without making any compromise.

- You can get a universal wiring harness from https://www.wiringspecialties.com/ and you'll just have to provide a 12v signal to turn on the harness and a 12v signal for the crank sensor then your engine is running pretty much you will have to put your fuel pump on a switch on the relay, a simple way to go about it is splicing the brown wire under the dash into the black/white wire on the fuel pump relay. As for getting a 12v switch source for the harness, you can fetch the chassis connector off of the rotary engine harness you'll see two big Black/Yellow wires these are used to power the injectors on the stock rotary harness, the good thing about this is it works in the ACC key position and will retain power while cranking which is good. As for the crank signal, there is a black/red wire by the key cylinder you can use this to splice into the crank wire for the 1jz or (don't take my word for this one I haven't tried it) there is also Black/Blue wire on the same chassis connector that supplies power to the injectors which is apparently a crank signal wire according to the Mazda Factory Service Manual.

- Your second option if you don't feel like spending that type of money on a fresh harness (I personally recommend it) there are

JZX 110 ECU Pinout

Start Signal:

• JZ ECU: Green (Pin 2, Connector D28)
• Notes: Need 12V momentary signal, can be found from that black/red wire from the key cylinder or the Black/Blue wire from the chassis connect. This is used to tell the ECU to pull timing when initially starting the engine.

Tachometer:

• JZ ECU: White (Pin 20, Connector D28)
• Notes: Connects to the Blue/Yellow wire on the back of the cluster

ETCSi Power:

• JZ ECU: Pink (Pin 7, Connector E22)
• Notes: Can splice this into one of the Black/Yellow Wires on the chassis connecter

Ignition Switch:

• JZ ECU: Black/White (Pin 9, Connector E22)
• Notes: Can splice this into one of the Black/Yellow Wires on the chassis connecter

Battery:

• JZ ECU: Black/Yellow (Pin 1, Connector E22)
• Notes: Can splice this into White/Blue connector (this is the second chassis connector, that doesn't have the injector power sources)

+B:

• JZ ECU: Black/Red (Pin 8, Connector E22)
• Notes: Can splice this into one of the Black/Yellow Wires on the chassis connecter

+B2:

• JZ ECU: Black Red (Pin 16, Connector E22)
• Notes: Notes: Can splice this into one of the Black/Yellow Wires on the chassis connecter

Injectors / Coil Packs:

• Wire Color: Black/White
• Notes: Comes from the brown chassis connector on the stock JZ harness. There are two of them, splice into the Black/Yellow Wires on the chassis connecter

Starter Signal:

• Wire Color: Black/Yellow
• Notes: Comes from the brown chassis connector on the stock JZ harness. There are two of them, splice into the Black/Blue wire on the chassis connecter or from the Black/Red wire from the key cylinder, you need to make sure it has adequate amperage and wire size to get the starter going. Another option is to retain the RX-7 charge/transmission harness and splice the connector for the 1JZ starter onto that. Makes things cleaner.

Mass Air Flow Sensor:

• Wire Color: Black/Red
• Notes: Comes from the white chassis connector on the stock JZ harness. Connect to the Black/Yellow Wires on the chassis connecter of the rotary harness plug.

You will want to retain the wiper harness plug from the rotary engine harness too if you intend on keeping your wipers. This will allow you to have a proper turn-key setup.

Here are the two important chassis plugs you'll want to cut from the rotary engine harness leave about 6" of wire when cutting them to splice into the JZ harness.




Additional Notes:
- If you buy an engine from an importer chances are they might not include an igniter, you will need that in order to start your engine.
- The chassis connect wires are typically grouped together in a plastic casing on the JZ harness, the colors of the plugs on there that I mentioned may not be the same but the wire colors are pretty much the same.
- The importer may have potentially cut off the transmission harness if you bought the engine without a transmission, the crank wire is usually a thick black or black/yellow wire you can re-splice it as I mentioned before. I recommend buying an engine with an auto or manual trans, if it's an auto you can go cash it in for some scrap metal lol.

That's all I can think of at the top of my head but hopefully that helps.

 

Wow man! Thank you so much for all this info!
Me and my mech will look over everything you said here in great detail and it will 100% help us out a lot!
Thank you so much!

 

No problem, nobody has ever really posted a detailed guide on the internet so that's the best I can do.

 

I hope everyone will have a chance to look at this. This will help many people out!