More and more. I think I was almost good on the ride height, now that the front is lowered. Still have to weld in the strut mounts and some extra support, but for the most part thats it.

I found an adaptor for a VW bug, I think I'm just gonna wing it, and try my hand at it. There is a guy Bill Hinkly??? I think thats his name. He's famos for adapting engines in places where they aren't supposed to go (My man). I'll try to get him to work on this; as long as he can keep the adaptor plate price under $4000 I'll be happy.

 

Well there it is. Thats how the rear is gonna set. I'm happy with the ride height. The frame rails are about 5mm lower than my "factory stock" boxster.

Next up is to finish the sub framing in the rear and the superstructure in the front.


Nobody is willing to make an adaptor plate. So I'm gonna give it a go. I'm gonna take a pair of 20" by 20" 3/16" plates and cut out a hole in each. Then mate one to the engine, and the other to the trans. Weld some nuts to either plate and weld the plates together. Easy peasy.

The "adapting" is really taking place with a hub centric piece of aluminium. Its gonna have the negative of the rear Mazda counter weight on one side and the Porsche flywheel on the other. It'll be about 25mm thick. I can get away with this redneck adaption because the Porsche flywheel contains the piolet bearing for the Porsche transmission.

 

Oh boy I went full *** retard with OPTION 3 on the adaptor....
























Trans side nuts welded to the adaptor.







From the engine side.












Just beeeeaaaauuuuttttiful!!!!







Time for a victory dance!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!





AND I found these rotors in an old engine I had around.... Little scared cause of an unintended apex seal removal, but nothing a dremel can't fix.







As the astute people in the audience may see, Its not centered. I need to get a machine shop to make a hubcentric adaptor for the auto rear counter weight to the Porsche flywheel. With that I can adjust thrust with the thickness of the adaptor plate, and centering with the piolet bearing that is located on the Porsche flywheel. I'm just super lucky its a hydrolic clutch and that the flywheel has the piolet bearing.


Anyrate this will get me started making exhaust/intake/water pump/ motor mounts...... everything else.

 

Looks soooo good in a proper chassis.


MMMM PP in the middle.


I am just so glad I don't have to make transmission mounts for this car. Making them for the other Porsche was a bear.

 

Long time no update....

I got an FB radiator mounted up front, but that's boring. Here's the exciting stuff yall wanna see.






















I know the intake runners are LONG, but I wanted the carb away from the exhaust. Torque??? And yes I am going to make an air box; I know its close to the tire.













































And I found a guy with a lathe so I will be finishing up the adaptor.. Anybody want an adaptor? I'm gonna make like 2 or 3. The more I do this swap the more I want to do an REW (completely stock) in another 986. I want to do that car with all the niceties of a Porsche; you know A/C, Power steering, Cruise control, just like my other car only with a rotary powering it. Also, I miss turbo sounds. .

 

since the RB housings have a hose barb, maybe you want to do something to make changing intake lengths easy?
other than that, its a great location for the air intake, and basically a straight intake will flow like crazy

we all know the racers were looking for maximum power, and that all came at the top end, but in a "street" car you could probably loose a few HP at the top and have a huge midrange

 

Ahhhh, I bought a lathe.

I feel like that Rick and Morty cartoon where Rick shows Morty a flat surface.

The chinese lathe is about as accurate as you would expect, but it definitely is capable of turning this project out.

Here's the start of the adapting.
























Now I just have to work on the flywheel side. Which is a positive side. Wish me luck.

 

Here's the update...



RX986 (youtube.com)


https://youtu.be/gBlrWvkP55Q

 

For those following along.... TLDR the adaptor plate is almost finished. Its a little rough, but some smoothing will make it presentable. I think I'm coming down home stretch with this thing, Just gotta figure out a starter motor location or solution.

 

There it is ladies and gents. In final form (except for the starter cuttout), the rotary to Getrag 12 engine adaptor.

 

Yeah, I know short convergence, but I have limited space. Soooo there it is.

 

GM alternator will work. Its a bit much for what I'm doing with this car, but I have a lifetime alternator from autozone.


Just gotta make some kind of tensioning system.

 

REMOTE STARTER....

 

The extendo bendix is coming along. LOTS of lathing yet to do, but its sooooo close.

 

Ran out of welding gas... Yes its gonna get "cleaned up"


BUT behold the remote starter!!!

 

Really threading a needle here.... This shaft is CLOSE!!!

 

Appliance epoxy is some tough stuff. Now I know it comes in quarts so I can squirt it through my HVLP gun.

 

Good to see you found bulk sales of this stuff. I assume that standard chassis paint is similar except more expensive

Yes, the appliance epoxy is very strong stuff. I used spray can stuff from the local store on my chassis. The cans have a lot of over spray, the worst of any paint I have used.

It is very difficult to get off your skin. I foolishly got it on my face, hands and I didn't wear a mask or use fans to blow the extra out of the garage. These were all massive mistakes. This stuff is very sticky.

Nice work so far. I am not good at fabrication. My skills are about 1/1000 or yours.

 

I wore an old hoody, respirator and googles. Still got on my facial hair; a quick shave helped.

I'm faking my fab skills. Its all a lie


EDIT: oh. I get the quarts from Amazon.

 

I'm sure there are real fabricators gritting their teeth at the sight of this "thing". I appreciate their composer at not yelling at me.



So nice to put parts on this thing and actually torque them down. Knowing I won't have to remove them again unless they fail.

 

Its alive.

 

I'm so looking forward to seeing this beast at DGRR.

 

I'll be there.

I don't think it'll be street legal by then, but I'm gonna try to make it street legal so I can jam with you guys.