You can do it without needing a dent at all w enough trial an error and the dent didnt need to be this big but I didnt want to cut it close and I also didnt want to keep redoing stuff, now it has tons of clearance and the dent isnt as bad as it looks in the picture.

Chris

Good to know :)

Where'd you purchase the Wiggin clamps from?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...All-Categories

:)

Cheers!

wow, about $150 cheaper than the adel version haha

Looks like you are using MasterCam software. I spent 3 semesters on that software going for my Mechanical Engineering degree. I also used SolidWorks, Inventor, and good ol stinken AutoCad. The good thing about MasterCam is you can setup your tooling processes and load the program straight to the CNC. Good work!!!!!

re route
 

you could do something like this?

I could but packaging is an issue due to the fact that I would need to have a second flex pipe in that small space. There is also the issue of getting the down pipe in and out if needed...if its hard now, requirimg lots of bending amd twisting, imagine with that return pipe attached to it...

C

I really don't see the need to go 4inch, imo, hell under 500hp I think 3-3.5inch is just fine.

I agree that 4" is not "necessary" for 500whp...but it does show improvements. At 460 whp I saw a jump of 32whp at the same psi going from 3" to 4" so naturally I did not want 3" again...of course this takes into account that my entire exhaust is 4", not just the downpipe...

I completely agree that I would've probably seen the same jump going to 3.5" down pipe but I had a ton of 4" pipe bends laying around that I had to use. 3.5" would probably be more sensible but I just couldn't get myself to order a bunch of 3.5" pipe when I have 30+ bends of 4".

I'm pretty sure with more trial an error a 4" pipe would fit without having to dent anything but I was pretty tired that night and I lost it...lol...I might go back and redo that section at some point...we'll see how everything else pans out.

Cheers!

Finished the new belt tensioner. Moving the alternator to the forward belt meant that a new means to tighten the waterpump belt would be needed. Coincidentally, it made the tensioner that originally came on the front belt unnecessary now that the alternator could be used to tighten it. I came up with the idea of using the original front belt tensioner to tighten the waterpump belt by making a new tensioner base that moves it back a bit and orientates it so its optimally located to tighten the belt.

Pics speak for words...:)

Cheers and Happy Easter!

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Finished machining the front cover plate for counterweight clearance and for the forward move of the alternator. I mocked everything up to make sure it clears and so far it seems like everything fits great. I also made a small bracket to connect the turnbuckle I will use to locate the alternator and tighten the alternator belt.

Cheers!

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Slick...

But whats with the turbo feed fitting? looks like it's even smaller than a -4an?

Its -4AN...maybe its the angle of the pic...

C

The ball joints I will use for the Alternator tensioner came in courtesy of McMaster Carr...one is a left hand thread and the other is right handed so I can make a turn buckle that will stretch and contract without removing either of the ends :D

Cheers

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Alternator tightening setup looks familiar ;), why are you using a seperate waterpump belt and a seperate alternator belt, instead of using one belt for both?

^ Just because it came with too belts...I guess Im ocd...lol

I finished the alternator tensioner turnbuckle machined out of 300 series Stainless...one thread is left handed and the other is right handed so turning the center will cause it to shorten and lengthen. The I made the distance across flats 7mm so a standard wrench can be used.

Cheers

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Finished the Alternator Tensioner...it fits and looks great!

Only a few things left to do...:)

Cheers!

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Took everything apart so I could finish up the remaining things from the list and decided to take a shot I always like taking with most of the components on the floor...:)

Cheers

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:D

Updated list:

Machine front cover (counterweight/alternator) - DONE
Machine Alternator Spacer to push fwd - DONE
Weld front cover - STARTED
Front cover oil line
Machine front pulley spacer
Driver engine mount finish - STARTED
Pass engine mount finish - DONE
Finish LIM (cut, weld, holes etc) - STARTED
Drill UIM bolt hole - DONE
Make Throttle body adapter-DONE!
Oil filter Pedestal (Used Modified RX-8 one) - DONE
Modify Water Pump Outlet - STARTED
Modify Oil pan
Make Alternator Pulley - DONE
Make Custom water pump Tensioner plate - DONE
Make Alternator Tension Arm - DONE
Relocate OEM ECU to Firewall
Install Wastegates - DONE
Make Downpipe - DONE
Make Wastegate dump - DONE
Fuel rail mod
Make/Modify Fuel lines
Make Turbo Oil lines
Make Radiator cover plate
Water reservoir
Make radiator lines
Intercooler mount
Cut/Tack Intercooler piping - STARTED
Weld Intercooler piping
Weld BOV
Replace exhaust sleeves
Machine engine for studs/Dowels
Make Ignition Bracket

Lots of good work man!

I already had a set of KG fuel rails from the Renesis setup and I have the programs and injectors to run a 6 injector setup. The car used to run and will continue to run on E-85 and 6 injectors really helps out with this. I made two bosses that I could use to add the two injectors to the 20B LIM and I welded them in...not too happy with the aesthetics of the welds but at least there are no leaks :nod:. This welding experience helped me decide that the Aluminum spool gun is not to be used in areas where the wall thickness is thin or the weld is to be cosmetic (ie. intercooler piping etc)...thankfully this will be hidden...

Cheers!

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I love the alternator tensioner...the aluminium welds look nice compared to my core welder welds...nice work!

no AC in this setup?

Its got to have A/C, I want it like it came off the showroom floor with this engine...in case I end up moving back to PR and taking it with me...;)...the A/C compressor fits below to the right of the alternator and it bolts into the original RX-8 holes on the front cover. This is part of the reason I decided to use this front cover instead of the BRE one...

C

Today I got tons done...I made a bracket for the secondary fuel rail and an adapter to be able to use the RX-8 primary fuel rail on the BRE engine. I also installed the intercooler and started routing the piping. The engine then went on the stand in preparation to being rebuilt and I checked fitment of the front cover which needed a bit of adjusting after all the welding. I then threw everything back on the engine to check fitment one last time. Now I will open the engine to swap the exhaust sleeves and potentially throw a few dowel pins in there although I am undecided on whether I will do that. Enjoy the pics...

Cheers!

Starting with some angle aluminum...
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http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...n/IMAG1031.jpg

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will you shield the LIM from heat at all? the DP is awfully close to it and will heat up your intake charge.

Im amazed at all the great work you do Chris, I wish I had the tools you have!

Woha, great. My renesis is compression ko in the second rotor and goes through my mind to make a swap ... of course no longer seems so easy.

I remember having read in a while SpainRX8 Club.

Regards Chris and Gonza.

Greetings from Barcelona.

PD:Mi english es terrible,lo se.:scratch:

Great read. Thanks for taking the time. Only thing I noticed throughout the build so far were those scary, fragile OMP lines. They might have actually broken while I was looking at them :) and I didn't see them on your to-do list. Here's the route I went years ago:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=omp

Small Update...after taking the engine apart and realizing that I would need to order a corner seal because one of them was cracked I decided to work on the front cover oil line. Because I machined the "galley" area to make clearance for the counterweight the oil that normally traveled through there could not do so any more. I welded the two ports shut and proceeded to route an external oil line to feeg oil to that small port that squirts at the counterweight/front bearing area. The catch is that it can't stick out too much or it will hit the A/C compressor... (this is a trick I actually learned from Galdi in PR) Now I just need to loop a line from one connector to the other...:)

Cheers!

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Today I finished the oil line for the front plate and got it all hooked up. Tomorrow I will get a new corner seal to replace the one that was cracked so I can put the engine back together. I'm shooting for an engine start ETA of mid to late next week...:fingersx:

Cheers!

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My missing corner seal finally came in and I put the engine together. I then started assembling everything onto it...front cover fit with new oil line perfectly...:)

The list of To Do's is slowly disappearing and turning into a "to get" list of final things I need before I can start the car (ie. Oil, belts...etc)

Cheers!

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Updated list of To Do's and new list of To Get's :D

To Do’s

Machine front cover (counterweight/alternator) - DONE
Machine Alternator Spacer to push fwd - DONE
Weld front cover - DONE
Front cover oil line - DONE
Machine front pulley spacer - DONE
Driver engine mount finish - STARTED
Pass engine mount finish - DONE
Finish LIM (cut, weld, holes etc) - DONE
Drill UIM bolt hole - DONE
Make Throttle body adapter-DONE!
Oil filter Pedestal (Used Modified RX-8 one) - DONE
Modify Water Pump Outlet - STARTED
Modify Oil pan
Make Alternator Pulley - DONE
Make Custom water pump Tensioner plate - DONE
Make Alternator Tension Arm - DONE
Relocate OEM ECU to Firewall
Install Wastegates - DONE
Make Downpipe - DONE
Make Wastegate dump - DONE
Fuel rail mod - DONE
Make/Modify Fuel lines - DONE (NOT NEEDED)
Make Turbo Oil lines - STARTED
Make Radiator cover plate
Water reservoir
Make radiator lines
Intercooler mount - DONE
Cut/Tack Intercooler piping - STARTED
Weld Intercooler piping - STARTED
Weld BOV
Replace exhaust sleeves - DONE
Make Ignition Bracket


To Get’s

Nuts/Washers - Manifold
Rubber Plug - water nipple by oil filler neck
O-rings Injector to Manifold
O-rings Injector to fuel rail
Water Hose - Small
Water Hose - Medium
Oil
Anti-Freeze
Alternator-A/C Belt
Water Pump Belt

Nice

Today I got the injector install worked out and applied the heat shielding to the LIM.

I also finished working on the oil pan. Just as I expected, because the engine is shorter due to the different front cover, the RX-8 oil pan had the right shape but the front stuck out. A quick mock up allowed me to see that the Greddy oil pan has enough sealing area to still work properly so I proceeded to make some aluminum clamps that would essentially sandwich the engine to the oil pan. They came out great and they do their job beautifully, providing a full seal all the way around.

Cheers!

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wow, looking greaaat brother!,

Thanks! Glad you like it!

C

Finished engine complete and will be throwing it into the car today...whoot whoot!

Cheers!

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ENGINE IS IN!

I started working on Intercooler Piping asap so I can be done with fabrication...so far so good...:)

Chris

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Wow. Best build thread I've read in a long time. Subscribed...

I disagree to that, its a fine build but not the best. Sorry Chris its fine, but the build of John Huijben is better.

I appreciate your vote although Im sure a few guys have done quite a bit more impressive work...:)

Chris

I agree...That build is nuts...but I was never trying to break any records...just a nice build for myself...;)

Chris

Chris acaba de prenderlo ya!Awesome build bud!

As I've not read that build thread, I stand by what I said. Best build thread I've read in a while. As most, I'm not a member of this forum only...I do have other cars and there haven't been builds this impressive on any of those forums in quite sometime.

Today I worked some more on the intercooler piping. All that's left is to install the 3" Wiggins Clamp that goes on the throttle body area and the BOV, then I'll be ready to weld all the aluminum. In case you guys haven't noticed, I ended up changing the intercooler to one with two exits on top which will help me keep the pipes relatively short and will also keep me from having to cut up my plastics in the radiator area.

Cheers!

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I know Chris, its impressive that you change the 13B-MSP engine to a 13B-REW and do a lot of custom work.

But you use no pieces of silicone hoses, reason for that?

I think he is used to hearing that pop sound from the engine bay under high boost. This way it not only looks nice, but will hold together under high boost.

The purple couplers are aerospace based units that replace silicone couplers. They offer flexibility, like silicone, while prohibiting "popping off" during boost. Its what race cars use commonly because it prevents hoses from popping off due to pressure.

They also look pretty :nod:

Chris

ow ok, didn't know that, now I know.