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Buggy 10-22-10 04:53 PM

It makes me laugh and cry at the same time. I bet you could have gotten a good deal on that old sled too. Wonder if it had a rotary in it? Poor Rx-4.....

john smack 10-22-10 05:01 PM

I am yet to figure out what the point was....

john smack 10-24-10 08:43 PM

OK so seeing that the motor only had 70,000 miles on it I decided this weekend to pull it apart and see if anything is still useable. Everything looks good except for the housings. the Irons are flat and smooth with no major signs of wear. The housings have chatter marks and some flaking on the edges.

Can I just buy new 13B housings for my motor or do I have to find some oldschool ones?

Rear rotor had chatter and some wear
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3206.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3219.jpg

Front rotor had flaking and wear
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3209.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3210.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3215.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3216.jpg

Aaron Cake 10-25-10 09:41 AM

If you buy new housings, you will need to switch to modern irons. Old school housings have the coolant o-ring grooves in the housings and flat irons, newer 13B housings (86 and above, the only ones available from Mazda) are flat and have the grooves in the irons.

If you need new housings, then you probably should use 4 port modern irons. Or, depending on how you want to port, 6 port irons.

Another option is to buy new housings and have the grooves machined into them.

john smack 10-25-10 11:22 AM

Crappy
Yeah I think I need new housings.. these ones are definatly iffy to say the least.

I will have to look around town and see if I can find a machine shop that will groove new housings.

The Irons I have are in awsome condition and it would be a shame not to use them

Jeff20B 10-25-10 12:20 PM

I'll take those housings for the cost of shipping.

john smack 10-25-10 12:24 PM

I am not to sure you want them, I am sure they are reusable but definatly not ideal

Buggy 10-25-10 05:00 PM

From the pics those housings don't look all that bad. Like you said, useable but not ideal. Old school housings like those are not easy to come by, but every now and then a set come up for sale. Keep your eyes open on ebay and on the forums. Machining those grooves would probably be a pain the the hind end, and you won't have the cool old Mazda logo on them.

Jeff20B 10-25-10 05:56 PM

The set I'm going to to use in my friend's rotary baja are in worse shape on the chrome. The aluminum is ok.

Do yours have any pitting in the aluminum?

Aaron Cake 10-26-10 01:44 PM

I don't think creating the grooves would be too bad. They don't have to be precision, just in the generally correct area. Any good machinist should be able to figure out a CNC program quite quickly. But best find a friendly machine shop that likes doing weird stuff otherwise the setup cost will be too high. I've never had this done myself but did consider it for my Cosmo until I found out that the housings were perfect.

Buggy 10-26-10 07:46 PM

Those grooves would have to be more precise than you would think. If they got too close to an edge it could crack out and cause a leak. It is doable, but you would for sure have to find a machinist who is cool with little tedious projects like that.

hoofhearted 10-26-10 09:05 PM

Will RX7 housing from the 84-85 GSL-SE work? IIRC, they have the grooved rotor housing.

Siraniko 10-26-10 09:12 PM

yes and yes that all pre-86 motors (12-A and 13-B, 4port and 6ports) have the grooves on the rotor housings. for the plates, they are all the same and are interchangeable

john smack 10-27-10 12:32 AM

If I was to use the housings from a gsl-se what rotors would it be better to use the 4 port rotors or the 6 port rotors?
Probably going to boost this engine at some point.. run it N/A for awhile then boost it when the time comes so I am thinking use the 4 port ones

Buggy 10-27-10 09:19 AM

The original 4 port ones should have 3mm apex seals already which would be nice in a boosted application. I don't know much about the GSLSE rotors though.

Aaron Cake 10-28-10 09:05 AM


Originally Posted by Buggy (Post 10288662)
Those grooves would have to be more precise than you would think. If they got too close to an edge it could crack out and cause a leak. It is doable, but you would for sure have to find a machinist who is cool with little tedious projects like that.

In the current economy, you'd be surprised how many machinists are willing to take on a small weird job just so that they can at least start to justify their coordinate machine and CNC mill. :) It's a whole different world then a few years ago. What I meant with the grooves is that 0.5MM is about all the precision required, which is easy to do for any machinist. Most will be far more precise then that anyway. Still, the whole operation is probably around $300 and combined with two new housings, brings the bill to over $1000. Likely not worth it in most circumstances.


Originally Posted by john smack (Post 10289107)
If I was to use the housings from a gsl-se what rotors would it be better to use the 4 port rotors or the 6 port rotors?

Earlier 13B rotors are 9.2:1 compression, GSL-SE rotors are 9.4:1 compression. In the real world I highly doubt there is much of a difference. If the GSL-SE rotors are in good shape then I'd use them. But if the RX-4 rotors are in better shape, I'd use those.

john smack 10-28-10 09:25 AM

Yeah Aaron the rotors look to be in good shape. I just got some history on this car this morning. The previous owner was up from the states driving through BC and lost all spark. No one could figure out what the problem was so it was abandonded.

Any how I have found a couple used housing for sale and they look to be in pretty damn good shape. I am a little worried about 1 housing as it looks like it had a real hot spot right by the trailing plug. Does this look bad or is it fairly normal?
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/.../housings6.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/.../housings2.jpg

And on a final note I went to the body shop yesterday after work and was able to snap a couple pics on my phone.
Ray has 99% finished making the inner frame rail, all thats left is to notch it for the sway bar and add mounting holes for the cross members and such. I will be going back today to take better pics as everything should be welded in and the frame rail should be done
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01027-1649.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01027-1653.jpg

Jeff20B 10-28-10 11:01 AM

Those housings look pretty good. The small amount of extra wear near the trailing holes should be fine with OEM apex seals. It will take a few miles to break in, but less than 1500 (unless you change your bearings too).

john smack 10-28-10 11:40 AM

Thanks Jeff I think I am going to buy all new everything for inside this motor. i will get some measurments for you tonight.. that link you sent me was awsome!

SPENT-IT 10-28-10 12:02 PM

That's not a hot spot on the housing, just a funky reflection from the flash.

I can try to get a better picture if needed.:)

john smack 10-28-10 12:25 PM

No need pm'ed

Buggy 10-28-10 04:00 PM

I'd say those housings look good man. Your body guy did nice work on that frame rail too. You owe him a beer or two!

john smack 10-28-10 04:48 PM

he can buy me a beer with all my hard earned cash he has in his pocket lol

john smack 10-28-10 05:41 PM

Well no major update today they are just picking at things while the frame ril is out taking care of any ugly little spots

Ray did finish putting in nuts reinforcment plates and notched the frame rail for the sway bar

here are a couple pics from my phone of both old and new
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01028-1516.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01028-1516.jpg

CamanoRx2 10-29-10 04:24 AM

Thats some NICE work he's done. That takes talent.....and CASH. Want one of these still, in coupe or wagon form. Considering the 74 GTR I know about.....I will be ton of work, but its almost complete.....

Aaron Cake 10-29-10 11:01 AM


Originally Posted by john smack (Post 10291349)
Yeah Aaron the rotors look to be in good shape. I just got some history on this car this morning. The previous owner was up from the states driving through BC and lost all spark. No one could figure out what the problem was so it was abandonded.

Weird. The points system is so simple it would be hard not to figure out. :)

john smack 10-29-10 11:54 AM

Yeah I thought the same thing.. I guess he just left it at someones house and never returned for it... there it sat from 1980-2004

john smack 10-29-10 06:54 PM

New frame rail and a cut out rocker
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01029-1630.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01029-1629.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01029-1630.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01029-1630.jpg

john smack 11-02-10 10:00 PM

I figured on the weekend while the front suspension is out I might as well take it home disassemble it and clean everything up. I thought it would be fairly quick....... I was wrong.
It has taken forever with the grinding and sanding and grinding and sanding then cleaning and rubbing and sanding and grinding has worn my fingers down an inch.
I have one side done and painted now I just have the other side to do........
Finished product is looking good can't wait to put it together tomorrow

dr50376272 11-03-10 06:55 AM

found some nice parts !

www.kagoshimaenglish.com/rx4.htm

check out my webpage

dr50376272 11-03-10 07:03 AM

when will the death penalty be introduced for leaving a mazda rotary to rot and die?

www.kagoshimaenglish.com/rx4.htm

john smack 11-15-10 03:11 PM

Havent had a chance to get down to the body shop in a while but they have called me and all the metal work is done by friday! Definatly looking forward to seeing her all rust and dent free.
Now I just have to come to a conclusion on the color. I am going to have him paint the engine bay before it comes home

CamanoRx2 11-16-10 12:02 AM

I am going to paint the engine bays of any car I build from now on a white or other very light color- Huge difference when working under the hood. Just pick one that is acceptable against your exterior selection, so its not too contrasting. You'll not regret it.

john smack 11-23-10 10:46 AM

Damn body shops take forever...... It is comming along nicely though, should only be there for couple more days maybe home for the weekend

john smack 11-25-10 10:14 AM

OK definatley not going to be home anytime soon..
Rocker is all welded in and looks good... went to blast the engine copartment and found some od shotty body work we have to fix. looks like this car took a small impact on the front passenger side the spot welds where the inner fender apron meets the frame rail was pulled apart from each other and a small patch was put in and bondoed.
The frame is straight and true but we have to drop the fender down to match, it is fixable so thats where we are right now.. i forgot to get pics while I was there yesterday

john smack 11-30-10 09:14 AM

OK a couple crappy cell phone pics on the fixing of the accident damage I spoke of earlier. You can see where the spot welds were taken out and the inner fender has been lowered down back to the stock location... they pulled out a crease, reformed the metal and squared everything up.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01129-1735.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01129-1736.jpg

And a sign of good thigs to come is a little RE-assembly.. the blasted and painted engine crossmember has been reinstalled to make sure everything is where it should be
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01129-1737.jpg

New rocker was welded in and formed to original looking.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01129-1716.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01129-1716.jpg

Little rust hole was cut out and a new patch is being built from the passenger rear quarter
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01129-1721.jpg

And finally the fenders out of the dip tank.. obviously from the accident it was in, the passenger side fender was replace at one point cuz it use to be red.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01129-1738.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01129-1738.jpg

john smack 12-06-10 09:23 AM

Went down to the body shop for some pleasent surprises... looks like the car is over the hill and is now starting to go together instead of come apart.

This is what I saw when I got there. Drivers fender on and fixed.. not fully finished but on its way
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3350.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3356.jpg

Passenger fender had some rust in the support in the back so it was cut out and in the process of being re made
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3355.jpg

The Rear patch that was cut out in the back was filled in and primed.. all body lines match up great
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3351.jpg

Started to pull the dents and crinkles from the rear lower valance, the bumperette holes will be filled in too, before done
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3359.jpg

The inner apron has been straightend and brought back down to the original location and rewelded in all square
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3353.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3352.jpg

New battery trey support has been welded in as well as the tourque boxes on both sides in front of the rockers
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3358.jpg

The actual battery trey was almost completely remade from scratch and is being test fitted onto the new frame and battery support
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF3354.jpg


Needless to say I am gettin pretty excited about the progress being made now that most of the fabbing is done.. looks like now we can concentrate on some surface rust and minor dent removal then we can splash some paint.

Siraniko 12-06-10 09:35 AM

how about relocating the battery in the trunk? I just feel that it will be much cleaner without it in the engine bay

john smack 12-06-10 09:52 AM

I will be looking at doing something like that when I put a motor in the car.. I may use that spot for some MSD boxes if intercooler piping gets in the way of putting a battery there

Aaron Cake 12-06-10 10:55 AM

Can you post a pic of the shop can and what kind of tools he has available?

I'm guessing at a minimum: sheet metal brake, English wheel, shrinker/stretcher then the basics.

Quality work so far.

john smack 12-06-10 11:06 AM

Actually he has only a metal break, welder, hand tools and blasting cabinet/equipment and paint booth. he must have a shrinker too cuz the shruk the roof to give it some strength back.
he started his career in hand making panels for airplanes and rstoring them. he told me he makes pretty much everything by hand and I have to take his word for it as I havent seen anything fancy in his small shop.

Siraniko 12-06-10 11:11 AM


Originally Posted by john smack (Post 10353215)
I will be looking at doing something like that when I put a motor in the car.. I may use that spot for some MSD boxes if intercooler piping gets in the way of putting a battery there

If I were you, I will install a dummy motor/tranny and turbo/piping prior to painting the engine bay and car. at least this way, you already know where they will sit and not scratch the paint. Just my $0.02.

john smack 12-06-10 11:34 AM

Yeah I am kinda having that problem right now.... I dont know whether to paint it now or wait until i mock everything in place.. I have a GSLSE block I could use to mock a block in but I am planning on a TII motor setup or Cosmo but I dont have everything to do a complete mock up.

Siraniko 12-06-10 11:48 AM

Just install a blown motor/tranny with no internals for test fitting along with the brake system, suspension and what not. Intercooling piping to F/I and exhaust is the easy part (shouldnt mesh up the paint if careful).

john smack 12-06-10 04:38 PM

I think i am just going to get him to prime it all, then mock everything I need to into place then when i know I have everything then take it back for paint.
prob the best way to go about it.. and the most wallet friendly lol

john smack 12-08-10 11:54 AM

Ok stopped by the body shop again this morning..

The back of the drivers fender getting sealed and finished
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01208-1020.jpg

Passenger side fender just sitting on the car with the new piece and support welded on
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01208-1022.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01208-1022.jpg

And in the back the bumperette holes have been filled in and welded up
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01208-1021.jpg

john smack 12-13-10 11:05 AM

Couple more from the weekend.

Door is getting smothed out
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01210-1650.jpg

Rear bumperetts have been deleted and the holes filled in
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01210-1650.jpg

And the roof is dent free and all the strength has been added back to the entire roof
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...01210-1650.jpg

freddyrx3 12-13-10 11:12 AM

The car is coming out great! u got a great body-guy. keep up the work.

john smack 12-14-10 11:28 AM

Thanks Freddy, it will be nice when all this body work is done and the car starts comming together

john smack 12-20-10 09:23 AM

OK so the car is getting closer to being completed.. front end has been sand blasted.... small holes that showed up were replaced and the front end was sprayed black for now. Heres some pics of the completed front end.
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF0115.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF0117.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF0118.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF0120.jpg
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF0121.jpg

A little more work on the roof to get it all smothed out now that it has its strength back. You can now give the roof a good hit without it wanting to cave in
http://i1008.photobucket.com/albums/...4/DSCF0119.jpg


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