Thanks Tinytyrant, I am premixing at the moment a little too much I think since it smokes a little but at least I have oil in there right. I am buying new stock OMP lines and hopefully getting enough oil to the second rotor and then going stock FD intake since the carb sucks in my opinion. Sorting out a oil leak, throttle return spring and the car shuts down on sharp turns so that all needs addressing :D But it works.

Grats on the build! Hopefully I'll be joining you in the ranks of street driven in the next month.

Awesome Wildman923, I am not sure how daily yours will be but as long as you dont have a carb you will be fine :D I really hate watching that fuel gauge move but that is because the carb is too rich and will be re jetted after certification :D Either that or I get a stock FD manifold before that

Motor is stuffed. No idea whats wrong but its idling at around 1000RPM and fouling the rear leading plug so I have no idea whats going on. Fuel pressure is low but fuel is getting there since its fouling the plug, replaced coil packs, leads and plugs with new items and still no joy. Front rotor leading is firing fine and is clean ;(

Hows the trailing plug look on the rear rotor? Is the rear rotor just getting more fuel than the front? Higher idle normally indicates a vacuum leak. Possibly a slight vacuum leak allowing the front to run leaner :scratch: ...

Trailing and leading plugs are black on the second rotor, perfect on the front rotor. I have new coils,leads and plugs and have fuel going to the carb I am just wondering if the premixing has clogged the fuel pump/filter since its getting low fuel pressure. Also the idle is low since it was idling at 1200 RPM steady as set by the ECU so idle is affected hence why I think its running on only one rotor.

I might try the ATF trick?

Spent a around an hour or more un flooding the engine, no idea how a large amount of fuel went into the engine but it was a crap load. I have cleaned the new plugs and will try and start it tomorrow morning.

I have no idea if this is possible but could the rear spark plugs have gotten fouled during the week last week while I used it and reached a point where they stopped burning allowing fuel to build up in the second housing? I never red lined the car nor fully opened the throttle bar one time during the whole week of constant use not sure if that played a part in this problem?

un-flooding the engine? how much fuel we talking?

even with no spark most of the unburnt fuel would be pumped out the exhaust, surely?

hopefully it is not a compression issue.

I tested compression as thats what I thought but nope compression is good. I have no idea how so much fuel got in there we are talking a fairly thick amount of mist coming out the 4-5 times I held the starter for around 6-7 seconds. I will re test today and see if that made a difference, I had no back firing on deceleration when it was running so I dont think any over fueling was happening but I dont know what else could be wrong now.

what about fuel pumps and fuel delivery pressure?

too much pressure can cause issues with either carbs or injectors i think.

Fuel pressure is a stable 3 psi but it just stopped starting now so Iv given it to the guy that wired the car up

So apparently its the carb but this mechanic/electrician is a pain to deal with but no one else works with Megasquirt :( took him 3 days so far to tell me he thinks its the carb....thanks for that mate. Its ok though I have a stock FD intake system ready for next Thursday when I get paid to pick up and install then tune and be happy to never have to deal with him again.

3 is low. If mem serves me correctly want to be around 6 'ish. That would explain it dying out going around turns and such. Looking like its a combo of low fuel pressure and the carb being tuned too rich to compensate for the lower fuel pressure.

Oh shoot wow did not know that since I thought most Holley carbs want around 3psi and no more? So the fuel pump would have caused the lean issue and the richness would have caused the flooding?

That's my guess, I am in no way an expert on carbs though. Could be the carb just needs a rebuild or has some gunk built up causing these issues. What fuel pump are you using?

using a Ford Courier carb pump so it pumps 3psi as I found the Holley needs. I am however going back to a stock FD intake setup and turbo fuel pump so that should take care off all the problems and finally give me the car to use or sell as I am deciding on keeping it or buying a FD RX7

Update time:

Stock intake manifold bought, I have a TPS sensor and bought some cleaned and tested primary and secondary injectors with stock fuel rails and stock regulators so I will drop them off tomorrow to be installed and tuned, all I am waiting for now is the stock RX7 turbo fuel pump I bought to supply the correct amount of fuel . Turned the motor over to test compression and got a dead even 100psi on all 3 rotor faces per rotor so I am pretty happy its not the motor thats broken and just hoping its the carb now.

The Holley needs 6 psi. Or it is supposed to. Is yours different?

No idea Jeff20B, I was told get a 3 psi low pressure fuel pump and so thats what I got ;( Its ok though now I have the stock intake setup and fuel pump so no more problems I hope

Stock intake manifold, injectors and rails dropped off and gave him a new OEM lower intake manifold gasket too so I hope that should be the fix to the one rotor problem. Currently waiting on a turbo FD fuel pump to drop off to him when it arrives and then tune ;D

I'm not a stand alone knowledgeable person, but why do you need to run a megasquirt with a carb setup...is it for the ignition purposes? Now that you are going fuel injected the MS will be a great benefit to you, but I didnt see its purpose on the holley set up.

^ Collin, the REW does not have a distributer that would be the reason for the standalone. So yes, it is for ignition.

Thank you very much RENESISFD that is exactly why I had to run the Megasquirt. I was weighing up going distributor and scrapping a ECU but I knew that I would be going injected sooner or later and that the people selling a front cover and distributor set up wanted the same amount as the Megasquirt so it seemed easier to just get a ECU.

Thanks John...I was wanting to ask that question for a while lol

Thanks Ash...I'm surprised to hear that people want that much for a front cover and distrib set up. Car is coming out nicely. Hope it all gets sorted out for you soon. It has to be getting expensive going back and forth to the mechanic (auto electrician).

Thank you CFAMILYFIX, it has been getting expensive and its taking a lot longer than anticipated seeing as this car is the work car lol But all I am waiting for now is that fuel pump and then when he starts it hopefully it returns back to normal and I can bring it home and enjoy it. I am just glad the compression test showed 100psi even on all faces.

Don't let it get you down. Almost every good project I've built has gone over budget and taken longer to finish than I planned. Hell my rotary miata build has already gone over the one year mark.

Thanks Wildman923, not down its just I hate using the Supra to work as thats the favorite in my collection :D RX7 fuel pump arrive today and its fairly freaking big so I am hoping this will cure all fuel issues and get my MX5 running back to normal at 100%

its looking good, cant wait to see it when its done..please keep us up to date

I will for sure Marques1681, just worries a little at the moment with all the car thieves going around. My friends MX5 was stole chopped and then flipped and left in some ones back yard. Problem is the justice in this country is too soft and the police cant do much with the thieves :( worries about my MX5 sharing the same fate since it parks outside in my driveway.

Update time:

Spoke to the guy working on getting my car running as I wanted to drop off the fuel pump and got told that he has far too much work on and hasnt done much to my car meaning the only thing he has done is remove the carb set up :( So looks like I am going to be waiting a few weeks for him as apparently he doesnt work weekends even with "so much work to make any progress with my car" :(

Oh well small update is that everything should be completed by Friday this week meaning stock intake and injectors installed and wired up. Hoping it starts now since the tuner mechanic didnt find the fault and hes been delaying it for 3 weeks now.

Sucks it's taking that long, but in my opinion it'll be better for you going to fuel injection for the long run. Not only does the REW intake look alot better than a carb but also considering this is going to be your daily driver.

For sure it will be a daily driver but a month to install a FD intake and tune? This is just so long hoping to get it back sometime this week

How is your project coming along Wildman923?

just got my hands on a 90 miata last week...I think im gonna drive it until it blows up and then follow suit...

lol good luck, I tried blowing the stock B6 up once I had the 13B and it wouldnt give up :(

Car is back and doesnt start :( I will try the ATF trick but according to the tuner which is complete lies but he said it started on the front rotor while he had it but judging that its sat in the same spot when it was dropped off means it was never started nor tow started as he said. He suggested it may be the corner seals?

Do a compression test!Your compression was fine before so why will you have corner seals issues now?and just after a new intake and tune...............weird.

Thats what I told him as well, compression is 100psi on all faces with the motor not running on the second rotor so now I have no idea what it is since if the seals were gone it would lose compression

That's not sounding right. If a seal was damaged it should drop your compression. If compression is even across all rotor faces that shouldn't be the issue. If your getting fuel to the chamber, and compression is good then it has to be the ignition side of the house.

It's coming along slowly, just recently finished up installing the frame rails, swapping the fuel pump for a 410 lph, re-running the fuel lines in 6AN, and mounting up the new Ethanol sensor. Going to try and finish up the wiring / vacuum routing tomorrow (Wastegate / Boost control solenoid / Ethanol sensor).

I honestly think it is the ignition side of things but everyone I speak to say different things. I get good compression but no start so it seems like its the ECU then when I ask someone else they say could be a corner seal, but to me even a corner seal will not give even compression not at all. I am getting spark and fuel as I tested both and I poured some oil into the chambers today to free up any stuck seals so will try starting tomorrow morning.

Awesome Wildman923 hope you get it finished soon :D

Ok so I am not an expert on the 1B however testing the leading spark plugs yesterday buy removing it from the housing, and the grounding the plug on the throttle body with the injectors unplugged I get a very very weak spark and by weak it is the size of this full stop ( . ). I am not sure if that is enough to ignite the fuel mixture but from working with piston engines I know enough to have seen a good spark am I right in saying the spark would be causing the no start? I have replaced plugs, leads, coil packs so that only leaves the Megasquirt and Bosch igniters that the tuner installed am I on the right track?

Sounds like your on the right path. Double check your grounding. From the battery should have two grounds, one going to the PPF and the other to the body (in the trunk near the battery). On my build I also ended up adding a ground strap from the body to the engine for good measure. If your grounds are good dig out to multi-meter and start checking resistance. Also the ground bolted under the brake booster causes tons of issues for stock miata's to might be good to double check that one as well.

Thank you so much Wildman923 I will double check the grounds but I have all factory grounds and a thick ground from body to engine so I am sure I have enough grounding. I think it may be the igniter or ECU but the spark is terrible so I am hoping thats the only problem left to fix. I have changed coil packs, leads and plugs

have you tried tow starting it? i had cars that wouldnt start unless they were towed and then they ran like a bat out of hell.

I tried tow starting and it just backfired, got home and de-flooded it (the tuner said he did that already but alot of mist came out), after that I havent had a chance to tow start, would I be getting enough spark since the tow start created backfire? I would have thought the back fire is from the over fueling and then small areas igniting since the spark is so weak?

something has to be crossed in the ign area...go over and check plug wires and coils again...ignitors too. No distributor I know, but could the crank angle sensor or tone wheel be out of allignment/ time????/ Just thinking out loud...I' hanging to hear this run!

do u have any friends with an Fb nearby? Maybe try swapping a few parts and see if you can get it started and running...

nice