Bike for dirt drags with 13B NA
 

The following link will take you to the first stage of my build thread " port valves " was done with still pictures the next stage the bike build will be done in video I will also be doing a video on how to wire a first gen dizzy to second gen coils and ignitors www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=928769

Video #1.. Bike for dirt drags with a 13b rotary
 

I am still waiting on my new camera so the one I am using will have to do for now .. I did manage to put together the first of a series of short movies on my bike build .. Much harder putting a movie together than one might think but seeing as this is the first please bear with me I hope things get better as I go along .. Hope everyone enjoys it and if anyone has any good info on my project please feel free to make a comment, I always look forward for new info.. Hope you enjoy I have made an effort to not make them too long :)http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SF5-7tPSm8

Video #2 bike for dirt drags with a 13b rotary
 

# 2 video is about machining a brake pin for the rear brakes on the bike ,also a new rear axel assembly and some shots of some of the different parts that I will be using after I modify them .. Again please feel free to make any comments.. I hope you enjoy :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=esMor6W3kCI

How are you planning on mounting into the frame, across with a bike style gearbox and chain drive or front to back with an auto box with a shaft drive.?

Interested in your progress mate :nod:

the numbers stamped on the rotor housings are reference numbers stamped on by the shop that mazda had remanufacture their engines at the time that the engine was built.

nice videos, i like the detail and methods using basic tools which shows you don't need expensive machinery to make things still.

My goal for 2012 is a cross mount with a racing clutch from a high HP snowmobile 250 to 300 HP. range and then run a jack shaft ,but for this year I will run it in line .. with a auto trans. The bike I am using is a shaft drive so I will just run a jack chain from the rear of the trans to the shaft drive .. I have done it before with a v8 engine but it created a fair amount of side draft .. I am hopeing the rotary will be a little easier to control .. No one in my area has built anything for me to compete against but for sure after the 2011 season some one will .. that is when the cross mount will appear :nod: .. Things get a little tense about half track with an inline set up but that is all that is in my fun money budget for this year .. :) So this year I am just trying to tease some of the guys to build a bike for dirt drags instead of using their street machines and it seems to be working .. Thanks for the interest

Yea I figured that is what the numbers were all about .. This year I am trying to keep things affordable so it will be a fairly easy and simple build . Not to much money spent on looks .. I notice that some of the guys spend a large amount of coin on their projects in the forum ..But in the end many of them still don't know much about their machines because someone else did the work for them .. I have grown fond of the little rotary engines and already have a couple more projects in mind .. even when I was a kid I had projects on the go that just made my buddies shake their heads .. Sometimes I guess things don't change much they are still shaking their heads .. I can't imagine following the normal path I have always been on the side making my own path.. thanks for the interest ..

The extra tab on the bottom of the water pump housing is for the emission air pump bracket. Since your not running one it's not a big deal.

Thanks KansasCity I figured it was something simple but who knows ..I went out and had a look at my other 6 port and it is the same also .:)

10:00 min. on frame build and some frame straightening 101
 

Just some basic frame building and taking a twist out of the rear fender frame Remember things only get complicated if you let them - Have a good one ,,:) http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=fsEgrtzeOaw

in west aus there was a homemade supercharged 13b trike that got banned from the dirt drags cause it set fire to a competitors eyebrows back around 01
( i am serious )

the supercharger was a massive switzer turbo compressor mounted off a ball gear drive from the water pump snout
--- a marvel in itself

the engine was rx4 13b bridgeport , the gearbox an auto 4wd subaru leone gearbox with 2nd gear removed
( using the front wheel output shafts to VW baja balloon wheels )

sorry no pics
,,,,, but i do know where the trike is now ( and 4 sale ) so if i come across it again i will take some

you don't have to tell me what it's like, i'm half german and have my own roots into the motor and building things from scratch with homemade tools, it makes it more challenging and fun to make things with your own hands and show people that it works.

This dude got shit to but they didn't run him off it's a 13b .just look at the crap he blows in this poor bastards face ,,It don't matter how many times I watch this i still :lol::lol: my ass off ..I have seen a vid or two with the back bumper burning on these 7's too I hope mine blows fire too ,in fact I will be disappointed if it doesn't :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=zqGsYiIWq3w

northam is in my home sate in australia ,, i wonder if that is neil
( owner of the trike )
note the nitro harley at northam vid listed with that one isnt even close

I just want to get this one built for summer then next winter it will be a cross mount rotary with maybe a port job I would love to take a crack at that. I have another 13b 6 port that I want to check out .. it had no compression on one rotor and I think not much on the other , But I haven't checked anything but I know it needs work .. :)

I don't know who that is but I would like to have a chat with him if you ever find out I have been trying to find a email or something but no luck so far ..He's not sparing any ponies either, that is about all that machine can take without heading for the cherry bushes .. My hat is off to him that is not the first time he did that :biggrin:

Mr Gerald, do you have any ideas what snow machine clutch you would run when you get to that point?

I know you said "a racing" clutch, do you have a specific brand or shop in mind?

No, I don't know what I am going to do for sure or even if that kind of set up can take the abuse .. But I don't see why not ,guys head to the mountains with 200 to 300 hp snow-sleds and they seem to survive .. I just like the idea of smooth power transfer without using a gear box of some kind .. Never know I might like the one I am building and just go bigger, better and wider in the rear for a nice wide dirt tire. I think chain drive also then you have the option of more ratios for drive sprockets..:) Why do you ask ? :scratch: Please feel free to make a comment I am always open to reasonable suggestions . Or even unreasonable if they might work . Being from Alaska there is a good chance you know lots about snowsleds. Thanks for your interest .

I've been looking at using a variable ratio setup of one form or another for 20 years or thereabouts, always on different stuff.

Only recently has there been enough development in the aftermarket to make it potentially readable (IMHO anyway).

I've been looking at the Rage series of primary and driven clutches, I just have to figure out how I'll attach them (while retaining a starter, and a driveshaft :crazy:).

I'm not drag racing, so the initial hit off the line won't be as harsh, I expect that's what kills those.

A few years back I built a pay out winch for hang gliding with a 440 snow jet ( OLD SCHOOL STUFF ) I could also use it for training purposes .. It had 7000 ft. of 3/16 spectra ( 1200 ) lb. test great stuff no stretch with a 4 cell parafoil kit with a 12 inch drogue behind it to keep the parafoil from going wild at high speeds .. I could launch a 250 pound man ,harness and glider out in a field with the winch stationary no problem .. about half pulley it use to slip a tad but not enough to cause problems .. To tighten the line on the drum I use to pay out most of the line, tie it to a good post and pull my van backwards ,that got it real tight ( it was mounted in the back of a 77 gmc stx rally van with no rear roof in it for payout towing.. I could tow them up with no problem to 3000 - 4000 ft. and when they released I would start the machine and bring the line in . ( that is what the parafoil kite was for ,to keep the line from touching down when I brought it back in to the van.. It had the snowsled speedo on it and it was easy to bring the line in at 50 - 60 mph... Guys use to look at it for a long time and I don't think many of them really understood how the dam thing worked:scratch: they just wanted another tow , It was great fun.. I built a level wind put a cover on it and never did show anyone how it worked it had a brake set up using a gm. disc brake on one of the jack shafts to control pay out speed and line pressures . I built lots of shit like that .. I still got it , If you like I can take a short vid and put it up so you can see how it works .. might give you a few ideas .. It never slipped on start up at all it was a half sheave when they were both the same size I would guess it was producing max torque there .. So what is your project I won't tell anyone HONEST know one ever reads my threads:)

Shock actuators to operate port valves
 

Well the question is there .. Was just wondering if it would be possible. Seeing as the shock actuators rotate either way why couldn't they be attached to the port valve actuator rods wire them up to operate one cw the other ccw,, then they could be controlled to open at any rpm and with the proper switch, the speed they open or even how far they open could be controlled. Do they have enough power to do the job? :scratch: Sorry for being so off center, I just can't help it I like things that are different ,,

15:00 minutes on machining and drilling a simple spacer bushing to replace the old mono shock system http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5_F4miJSrA

14.47 minutes on frame build , welding , pipe bender . The frame I started just wasn't wide enough to accommodate the rotary engine properly so I cut part of it and made it 2 inches wider to help make the bike easier to balance at low speeds .. The bike has grown to about 10 ft. long some say it will be easier to handle some say it will be harder to handle.. my experience with bikes tells me that the rake or (angle) of the front end will determine how it handles along with how low the center of gravity is .. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7JNJXrkgLY

You fast forwarded the good part! How did the pipe bender work out? I have a similar unit from Princess Auto, just without the air cylinder. Bought it for exhaust tubing then found out the dies are for pipe. :rolleyes:

Aaron I never thought anyone would care how it worked so I buzzed through what I figured would be considered boring .. I didn't work to bad for my first go with it . I love the air over hydraulic ,one of the main reasons I never showed it all was because my compressor is so loud it would drive everyone nutty.. I need to go for some pipe supplies so when I am ready to do some more bending I will do a video on just that .. I will drag that dam compressor out in the entrance so it doesn't bother the sound on my camera.. I consider that a small effort for someone that has helped me out as much as you have .. Have a good one and take care.. :) Gerald

Or, just pump it up by hand for a bend or two. :) I've never had much luck with mine using it on tube, of course. I figure with the correct dies and perhaps something like tar or ice in the tube, it could make some nice bends.

I think you will find that sand is the best thing you could use for inside the pipe to help keep the kinks out fill it full and cap the ends somehow . It's no problem to move my compressor it is just a little piece of crap My big one is in my foam rig ( 3 piston 25 GPM ) but the little one in my shack should be in the land fill but I guess it is better than nothing..

Video #6 Motorcycle for dirt drags with a 13b rotary engine
 

Here is a short video of extending the front frame tubes so the frame will reach over the engine package .. Missed the air box by about 1 inch ( just slipped by the side of it so that worked out better than I thought ).. I finally did get some pipe bent for the upper frame rails without any kinks ( that will be the next video ) ,So that worked out better than I thought ,, Also got my rad mounted and the oil cooler mounted vertically behind the rad ( very tight fit )so it should drain back into the oil pan on shutdown, that should be good for doing oil changes.. Rear mono shock is gone and solid struts added. Every thing on this machine has either been modified or made special .. :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvIT4...er_profilepage

Sno-mo-clutch on a Mazda rotary
 

If you take a couple of minutes to follow through my project build from last summer, you may find alot of what I did will help you out. Been there, done that!

http://www.sanddragcentral.net/viewt...hp?f=19&t=2085

Thanks for the tip chain but I can't seem to find anything that is relevant to my build . I did take out a membership as anything related to sand racing is of interest to me .:)

If you go forward with the sno-mo-clutch setup:

jackshaft setup
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...8-04-10004.jpg

chain tensioner
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...8-04-10007.jpg

header
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...8-08-10001.jpg

you'll probably go with a straight axle, but if you try IRS or something (I was almost 2 years figuring this part out to work on my car!)
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/IMG_0026.jpg

the clutch mount
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...g/IMG_0012.jpg

motor /jack-shaft plates
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...ng/chassis.jpg

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...chassis019.jpg

sno clutch
 

Thanks for the time chain that is pretty much what was on my mind .. How did that system work out for you ?? some of the guys from around here ride some powerful sleds ( 200 to 250 hp ) and they claim that when they come back from the mountains sometimes the clutch and secondary drive is pretty much all that is left .. they figure that my 130 or so hp would be easy to handle .. I have also been thinking of running the Mazda clutch on the engine with a chain back to a jack shaft and then straight back to the rear wheel .. I saw one set up like that with a big block engine but the wheel would need to be really turning when I come out of the hole and be very hard to control the machine.. I know with the sno clutch things can really happen fast .. Your thoughts and input are welcome ..:)

I'm guessing my motor is making around 180 hp Na and around 250 on the 100 hp hit of NOS. (and it loves the NOS!) My weak link for now is the rear axles. I ended up going with the sno-mo clutch since it worked well with the Hp and torque curve of the rotary. The hardest part initially was finding the right tune up , including proper set of springs and weights for the clutch. I ended up with the heaviest ones that would fit in the clutch. I fought for years to get the jack shaft to not flex and kick the drive chain off. Adding the 3rd bearing in the middle of the shaft and getting one as close to the secondary clutch as possible fixed that. The secondary clutch must free float on the jack shaft as well or it will get hot and toast the belt. It allows it to self align. I ran the same belt for 6 races last year and it still looks like new. I do have to blow the dust out of the clutch after every pass, not a big deal. Would be an easy fix if I had a proper clutch enclosure.
My final drive is roughly 6.33:1 at this point (12 tooth front gear and 72 tooth rear gear) it needs more. I am getting ready to order a 86 tooth rear gear. The whole key to getting the small front gear to work is keeping the chain wrapped around it as much as possible. Otherwise you end up with a gear with no teeth! Only a $14 fix to replace, but it got frustrating. I run a #50 roller chain and gears available at most conveyor type equipment stores. (motion industries locally, around $40 for a 20' chain)

The front section is non-removable then? Will this make it difficult to access components at the front of the engine?

The rad also seems very small. I guess it doesn't really matter when it is only running for a minute or so. :)

Since the cooler is fed by the oil pump directly through the front cover and then feeds the oil passage in the rear iron, it probably won't drain very much. What about welding a drain bung onto the bottom of the cooler?

I use 1 inch shaft for most of my builds on different things I guess because it is easy to buy and so is the add on stuff.. You can buy 1 inch stuff that is pretty much indestructible It is worth a lot more than ordinary stock but it actually takes a lot more abuse before failure and when it does break it will be a long jagged break not just snapped off .. The more it flexes and twists the stronger it seems to get , ( something to do with the carbon content and so on, Can't remember the name or number of shaft but it really is much better stuff .. and it's not bad to cut key ways in either . it looks like you used a round shaft for the secondary clutch pulley to float on, does it just have a keyway to hold it or am I missing something?? .. If you put a double sprocket on your final drive with a double sprocket idler instead of a roller I think you will find that you sprocket eating problem will go away .. I just buy two of each when I work with stuff like that make spacers to keep them spaced proper for the double chain and just bolt the shit out of it .. It will last all season and cost way less in the long run .. You have a lot of tire on the ground ,I love those sand tires I am hoping to get a 10 or 12 inch for my cross mount build .. Thanks chain If you have any I would like to see some video of that little machine in action just pop it in my thread if you have any :)

I think I.m ok in the front of the engine .. The alternator will remove with out touching anything .. The dizzy will pull out without interference, the oil cooler and rad are very easy to remove.., Just lower supports (They pivot at the top so they just fold ahead when the bottom brackets are removed ) and remove water pump will also be a easy job. If I need to remove the engine I will need to separate the trans and engine and remove out the right hand side, engine first then trans. I hope the little rad will do the job , The burnout contest will be the test for the cooling system AND I WILL WIN THE BURNOUT CONTEST .. I have another Honda diff lined up so I can just change the whole rear drive ( just a few minutes work ) and not burn up good rubber ,.. A drain plug in the cooler would be nice but it will be one of the last things I do depending how much time I have left, Next year it will be going back horizontal anyway .. It takes a way longer to figure things out than to actually do the work same with these videos they also absorb a lot of time .. I don't know about you Aaron but by the time I get 15 minutes edited I am really tired of listening to myself :lol: , But it is kinda fun :)

Chainreaction, thank you for the pictures and diagrams. :)

Is it a dedicated drag machine?

Well Erik .. I bet this will keep you awake for a while.. Just think how much you can play with ratios !! :)

Haha, awesome. :) If the engine is only running for a few minutes that rad will likely be OK. After a few minutes though I'd expect that it wouldn't handle the heat load at much more than idle. The factory rads on the RX-7s are quite large.

I break my editing up into a few sessions otherwise I have the desire to just plow through it.

I run a JEGS VW Scirocco radiator on my buggy. Takes quite a while to warm the engine up. I start it up 30-40 seconds before I have to pull into staging, make my pass and drive the entire return road back to staging. It will gain 30-40 degrees on a hot day. Once I get heat in it, it cools down within 4-5 minutes between passes. I am actually going to a much smaller but thicker aluminum radiator out of a Polaris ATV this spring. I started out with a large aluminum oil cooler (out of a wrecked Cessna airplane) and did away with it as the car took forever to warm up.

My little rad is from the Honda I think a 750 cc Sabre.. The bike I think was around 86 hp. engine , it came with the frame when I bought it .. .. I personally don't have a problem with a bigger rad but if it sticks out past the frame and I go down I'm done for the day ... The little one is between the frame rails and is pretty safe there .. It is a double tube and is about i/2 the size of the stock one maybe a little less.. One thing that might be a problem is, it is only 7/8 inlet and outlet . On the plus side the e fan has a huge pitch to it and runs much faster than stock I think it needs to run right from start up .. I left enough room to go larger if need be but I really like what I got so I hope it does the job .. What do you do for a thermostat or do you run without ? I was thinking of running without buy the time it is average temp like you said everything should be over .. I am also using the stock oil cooler, that should keep the oil temp down to help keep the bottom end cool .. When I get fire in the holes I guess I will soon find out what it will need for sure . :)

I'd suggest leaving the thermostat to keep the engine a constant temperature to make it easy to tune. However if you do run without it, make sure to plug the bypass hole in the water pump housing. Also just core the thermostat and use the outer ring as a restrictor.

I have always preached of having the thermo in place on every engine, so the rad gets a chance to do it's job so maybe I should practice what I preach .. I think everyone knows how that works so I'm not going to get into it .. Getting to the bypass hose, as near as I can see it keeps coolant going past the thermo area so that it opens when it reaches temp and helps stop temp spikes in the engine and keeps the temp gauge reading true, or am I missing the point of the bypass .. I might set an extra temp gauge up on the rad outlet side or just install a double pole switch to change it from one to the other to see how effective the rad actually is .. There is a sensor in the outlet side but I think it is intended to operate the e fan, but I am using the thermo housing from the bike as it has a metal pipe instead of hose ( it just makes it easier and neater to run from bottom rad back to engine ) It has a temp gauge sensor for the original bike system . That will be all the gauges I use besides a mechanical oil pressure .. This has been the hardest of all to decide what to do with the cooling system and I am sure it will haunt me right to the end .. :)

When I was putting my car together, I was focused on doing everything I could to get the car as close to 600# as I could. When I picked up a stock water pump and found it weighed in the range of 30#'s. I quickly decided it needed to go. I went with a Meziere drag race pump, a bit on the expensive side but has worked flawlessly for 6 years now. I do not run a thermostat but do run 10an Nascar style radiator hoses. They actually came of a Hendrick's car... the hoses serve to restrict the flow to and from the radiator. For temp sensor, I use a Jeggs screw in dial gauge that's mounted in one of the water jacket bungs just below the oil filter. I know it reads low but at least it's consistent. I warm it up till it shows around 120 before I pull into staging, when I get back from a pass it shows around 150-155. If I have my 5-point harness loose I can look over my shoulder to see the gauge, but I usually don't bother. Water pump and fan are on separate switches, that way I can circulate water with the fan trying to cool it off. I've done that on every sand racer I've run for the past 30 years and liked the results.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j.../nitros004.jpg

Oh yeah, one more thing for you to consider if and when you decide to turn the motor and go sno-mo-clutch. With a conventional, front to back mounted motor, the motors torque will want to lean your bike over. In a race car it twists the chassis. In the sideways mounted setup the torque tries to drive the front end down, offsetting the rear tires attempt to lift the front end. Learned this after talking with Jeff Mamer who runs a 1000 hp sideways mounted chain driven VW dragster in the sand.
http://www.dragracingonline.com/live..._9-sand-1.html

Thank-you for your support chainreaction
 

Tried and true knowledge is priceless chain and I appreciate every bit of input ,, I have thought about every thing your talking about about but it 's nice to know before i get to that point .. As far as the bike leaning I expect that I just hope it's not to extreme . What I'm wondering is it going to torque like an electric motor on start up and then back off when the wheel comes up to speed or is it going to be like momma and just keep right on twisting, I'm thinking that the twist of the engine will lessen as I gain rpm's and get easier to control as I go down the track . It's a good thought anyway:lol: As far as the cross mount goes I think it will for sure be the best .. It's good to know about the secondary pulley needing to be able to float on the shaft . With say 150 hp. driving a good sno clutch set up to jack shaft from jack shaft to rear wheel with a 12 or 14 inch sand tire that is what I want ,maybe a little sniff of the go juice , ( Man that Larry Minor has got a huge bottle of go juice :cool:).. I have a question for you that is a little off subject but say a person wanted to go as fast as he possibly could with 4 wheels in a reasonable distance I don't know say 3 or 4 miles with say 200 hp. would a higher end sno clutch with the proper ratios on 1 or more jack shafts etc stay together long enough to do the job or would it self destruct ?? Anyway thanks again for your help now tell me more about the nox and don't hold back :) Buy the way I'm sure you are up on your rotary tuning etc. but the knowledge about rotary's on this forum is unbelievable ,if you need any help there is a wealth of info here and I am sure someone will be able to help you . Have a good one .

We have atv racers running with us that are running 200-230 hp on stock clutches, mostly Polaris and Arctic Cat. I spent the $1800 on a Micro-Belmont clutch because at the I wanted to have the option of putting the 12a peripheral port motor I have in the garage in the car and putting NOS to it. Micro-Belmont has put this same clutch on a 500 hp turbo drag sled and it held together.
As for turning a sno-mo-clutch hard or fast. I have read that you should not turn them much more than 9,000 rpm's as they can scatter, but the stories i heard were mostly from sno-x racers who tend to really heat up their clutches. I have turned mine as high as 10,800 rpm's but for only 2-3 seconds at a time. The nice thing is you can tune the clutch to the rpm's you want it to run at with weights and springs. With my current tune it hits around 7,800 rpm's within about .5 seconds of hitting the throttle and just stays there the entire track. It only fluctuates when i loose traction (Ie: bumps and ruts on the track) When I lift at the finish line, the clutch momentarily goes to full lock up prior to back shifting and the car actually squirts ahead. Once it back shifts, I have to feather the throttle to make it to the end of the shutdown. BTW, I use a stock Arctic Cat Bearcat secondary clutch and only shift about 70% through it. Thats why I'm looking at going to a bigger rear gear. That change will help my 60' time alot.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...h_PICT0005.jpg

I'm actually referring to the bypass hole in the water pump housing. It's at the bottom of the thermostat neck. The thermostat closes it as it opens up. Generally that hole gets tapped and plugged when eliminating the thermostat or a big bolt gets installed. If it is left open, about 30% of coolant bypasses the rad.

That is interesting so in reality I shouldn't need a real elaborate braking system just the stock bike brakes should be more than adequate .. I thought I would use a knobby on the front wheel to try to keep it stable in the sand and of course some kind of sand tire on the rear .. The cross mount will need the total frame built and I really think it will be easier than working with bike pieces .. It's a hard road when you start with nothing . Right now I am trying to figure out where the coils should go , I need to find out for sure if the stock 2nd gen coils can lay down flat or if they need to stay vertical .. My final drive still needs some attention ,It's hard to end up with a pad for my pillow blocks that is level as the bike frame is not exactly the same on each side but I will get it .. Is that your son running the little car ? I see you have a good inventory of rotary parts, that doesn't happen over night either .. :)

video #7 motorcycle for dirt drags with a 13b rotary engine
 

Just a short video on my pneumatic pipe bender set up to try to put out some nice pieces for the frame ,not an easy thing but it is possible if there is enough time taken .. To do even better I think the two top rollers should also have a cushion pad on them to keep the pipe nice with no dents especially on lighter stuff .. ..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zZY1...yer_detailpage