I am running out of time, I need my car back, If i get the parts, will someone that has knolage and has rebuilt an engine before be willing to rebuild mine? i dont have a garage and i really need an engine.

 

man. with all the probs and constraints you got going on, you are down to a minimal number of choices
1) sell the car
2) keep the car
a) put in an atkins rebuild (ya got two cores, you should be able to get some $ out of the parts left on them against the new motor)
those are the only things that I can see working for you (unless somebody offers to help you rebuild the motor you got)
I would guess that the atkins rebuild would be better than your first rebuild, given the limitations of time and space....
it may not be the best solution, but it is a plan that will get you a motor fast, fairly inexpensively,and get you back on the road asap. if you need help moving the cores and stuff to puyallup and back, you can pm me...

 

well let me get back to you when i have 2,900 and i will see about getting it rebuilded. thanks

 

Just buy a running used motor. While it won't last as long as a quality rebuild, it may outlast the average floorsweeper. And, while your waiting for it to die, start saving money for building something better. If the used motor last longer than you expected, then the additional money you save will pay for upgrades (more new parts, porting, accessories)...or you can start building the replacement before you need it, pickle it, and have it ready to swap in when the time comes. Your options look better when you take urgency out of the equation.

 

yeah, that is a good solution, but I havent seen any running used motors that arent attached to a running used car for a while on the 4 sale site. maybe the best/cheapest/fastest soln is to buy a running car and strip what you want and dump the rest. at least then you can see how the thing runs instead of taking somebodys word that the motor runs!

 

There are always used, running motors floating around if you know where to look. Anywhere from $100 to $600 for most NA stuff. Sometimes it is cheaper to buy a whole car than just the motor. I got a running GSL-SE parts car for $300 recently, so the deals are out there. The optimal thing is to buy a wrecked car because it's a sure bet it was running...because it RAN INTO something.

 

PM dDub, he might be interested in rebuilding it for you...

I've rebuilt a few, so if you've ran out of 'professional' options, I might be able to help you.

Also, try PM'ing: Grim129

I think he might have an N/A motor he doesn't need.

 

been there done that with the used motor thing, Not sure what happend, i spent two months (taking my time) getting another motor in her.. put oil in all fluids and just cranked her, Sounded GREAT starter sounded even didnt notice ant comp problems. But after i started it up after like i think it was 10 seconds started Loping really bad, Right then i was like #%@. so i took the EGI fuse out so the car would not start and Just cranked her agian.. and sure enough sounds like lost Compression, i think it rusted out on the inside, ill never get a used engine agian. with all the time i spent putting another motor in Might as well make sure you dont have to do it agian for a long time. I mean i drove it around on one rotor for 10 miles thinking a mirical would happen. but nah i think i have a Really bad stuck apex seal or it busted, the water it a bad bad color. the motor sat for a long time i think also, if i were to get a used engine i would want to see it run and let it run for a bit and check things out, take the engine out, plug the bottom rat hose and fill the motor up with antifreeze to keep the insides from rusting, I just got a bad engine i hate to let it go because of that.. Im holding out trying to find a new place to live. so i can work on my car when ever i want, i can do allmost anything if i have a shop and the right tools, Why i didnt go into mechanics i will never know, maybe its not tolate, anyone hireing LOL thanks for all the offers for help. ericsseven too tell you the truth i can use all the help i can, jinkins also thanks for the offer of help. this is where im stuck, I have some money, im waiting on some pay checks and some tenents rent, i need to find a place to take my car so i can get the engine out, then i can get the core at the other house, i cant take the engine out here and i hate to have it towed to a place where i cant watch over it, my plans are to find a place to get my car so it will be (safe) and then take the engine out and get it rebuilt, and put it in agian. maybe to a auto to man swap not sure yet i never done that before. but time will tell. I know i have been asking for help alot. and jenkins and ericsseven has been the only ttwo that have offered. Im not turning you guys down at all, its all on how i think it will work, if i feel i can do it a certain way i will take the offer for sure, but i first need to get the engine out, Im not sure if Mt peak automotive will do that? also about mt peak are they good at rotary engines? just wanted to get more info on them. and agian thanks for the offers for help. let me see after a few weeks on how things might work out then ill get back with one or both of you. thanks adam

 

If the engine has rust inside than there is a good chance most of the parts aren't even re-useable.

 

Man I couldn't read that entire paragraph.

Did you check the MAP sensor hose? Sounds exactly like what happens when it is disconnected.

Otherwise buy a reman or go with a good rebuilt motor (Pineapple or Atkins).

Don't screw around with a used FD motor (that is what you have right?), it will likely be garbage, after shipping, etc you won't save much $$.

FDs are expensive, if you can't afford a motor give up on the car.

 

I'm pretty sure he has an FC; not an FD. At least, that's what his screen name would suggest. Obviously, he should be absolutely sure it's blown before replacing it, but that's easy to diagnose. FC engines, even running, are pretty affordable and available. There should be no need to ship one, at any rate.
--
Blake

 

Yep sounds like it might be a FC, I'm dyslexic. FC/DC turned into FC/xx...

I agree, a used FC motor shouldn't be too hard to come by...

 

Im sure there are motors out there? the question is do they work, People store them with out antifreeze in them and then whats left inside drys out and rusts. i wish people new how to store a used engine,

 

Wow, same here, I mix up numbers all the time. It's funny when others point it out.

FCDC, too bad you're not from around here. If you supplied me with the parts, I'd assemble a motor for you for $15 an hour. That's a lot less than shop time. It might take 10 hours at the most to clean / clearance / assemble the parts. My motors have lasted when I didn't port them first, lol.

 

Well take my experience at face value.

I stored a TII motor for 5-6yrs on a pallet w/no coolant, it fired up the first crank. It had 142K miles when pulled and was running fine last I heard at ~185K.

What is going to "dry up"? Rubber seals typically get broken down by UV light at exposure to the atmosphere. No rubber seals in an assembled engine will have that problem.

Rust, well if it is stored outside then that can be a problem, inside storage should be no problem.

I've heard people refer to dried out "seals" the "seals" are cast iron, they don't dry out...

Jeff

 

im talkin rust in the cooling system. from water that sat in there for a long long time. and the rust must have formed. i added freash water at first, then added anti freeze. but the water was a **** color. dark yellow, not good , not sure where its coming from. or why

 

I agree with Jeff. The biggest issue with storing an engine is lubrication. We usually call it "Pickling" the block and it just involves pouring a couple ounces of oil (motor oil; not ATF) down the intake and rotating the e-shaft a few times. Ideally, you would also "steam clean" the inside prior to removing it from the car by sucking some water through a vacuum line while you hold the revs up, but that is optional. I like to spray some WD 40 on the external surfaces, too. Keeping coolant in the block is absolutely not what I'd recommend. No idea where that comes from. I would, instead, run clear water through the system and then blow compressed air through to evaporate the water as best I could.