What would you do? I'd want maximum power, without comprimsing driveability or reliability. What would you do, how would you build it?

 

4 rotor

 

Make it single turbo...
No idea about reliability FDs break alot and the 13brew dosn't last that long...
but I have no idea, i don't really like FDs

 

If you build it right it will last.



Go with a single setup if you want to go standalone system, if not then get some 99 spec turbo's.

My fd has been a solid car with the single setup i have on it. It has only broke down twice in the 2 1/2 years i have had it.
1. blew original motor because of bad ignitors
2. line came off fuel pump in the tank.

 

the way that I am building my motor

-Large turbo on low boost I just purchased the AF61.
-850 pri 1600sec
-aeromotive a1000 fuel pump with fuel filter
-full stainless fuel lines
-street strip clutch
-full standalone
-large fmic
-40mm wastegate
-Stainless manifold

Other small little things that I may have forgotten.

Basically build overkill so that there is not too much stress on the components.

 

If I was you, I would give it to me to build with about 20g's... That would be cool!

 

Use the search feature in the 3rd gen section. Almost everything and anything about the FD in terms of build ideas in correlation to power and reliability has been covered. And of course what it all really comes down to is how much are you willing to spend? There is a reason why the FD doesn't have the reliability of a Porsche. However if you spent Porsche money that another story and then it becomes apples to oranges at that point.

 

$15k for the car, $20k for the build. Kind of a tight budget when it's all put into perspective, but I think I can make something special out of her.

 

IMO that should give you a decent chance of getting your FD reliable for a decent amount of RWHP. Budget your $20K build according to how much money it would take to run that horsepower goal reliably. Start with the standard reliability mods (cooling mods, etc.) and then spec out the mods you need to run that horsepower level reliably (ecu, fuel delivery, etc.)

 

Yeah.. I'll address reliability first, power 2nd. The car is by no means slow right out of the box, and that'll hold me over for a year or so while I add all the upgraded parts.

 

low boost!? wtf is wrong with u z beater!

 

Tein Flex coilovers, 17X10 wheels, LS1 swap stroked to 427 and built to about 500rwhp, 99 Spec with pettit fender flairs and wide body carbon fiber front fenders, bride seats, and a Mazdaspeed spoiler.

 

This part will never work. Max power means driveability/streetability will be hindered, and most likely reliability if you're pushing it to the limits.

What I'd do if I had an FD, though:

Half Bridgeport
GT42R, custom mani, some external wastegate
Fairly large, but not gigantic, intercooler, don't know about BOV doesn't really matter to me
Alcohol/water injection
720 primaries 1600 secondaries
Dual supra TT pumps, FPR, ss lines, bla bla bla
True cold air intake
Some standalone, depending on where I'd have to go for tuning and what they can do
No emissions/bs
Coilovers, sway bars, poly bushings, strut bars, under braces, roll cage, harnesses, racing seats (brands unsure)
Aftermarket 99 front bumper, tails, wing
18" black wheels, around 16-17 lbs each, tire size whatever I can fit under the stock fenders
Black paint

Missing a lot more, but that's a good start.

 

I gave the benefit of the doubt and interpreted heydanniceshot's statement to want as much power within the scope of positive relative driveability and reliability. However I could be way off from the truth.

And yes I agree, the goal of maximum power means driveability and reliability is usually compromised.

 

i'd get it a 1st gen body!

 

How many of you actually own an FD? I think some of you spend too much time listening to others on here, don’t discourage him.

They can be very reliable and still have great hp. Follow the sticky in the 3rd gen section, do all the “reliability mods” and the car will be pretty damn reliable (I drive the **** out of my cars). I run mine at 14psi everyday (my FD is a DD right now and has been for the last 6000 miles) and 17-18psi when have a Ferrari sitting next to me. If you are conscious, careful and have a general idea of how to tune and how the car works (along with some of its down falls) you can keep it running great. Maintenance comes up a little quicker and you are usually replacing those parts with and aftermarket part so it’s a touch more expensive. Its almost a must for you to turn your own wrenches or find someone you trust, Mike Janousck (206)888-8364 is a good one.

I put 18k on my last motor before I, I repeat, I over boosted and chipped two apex seals. It was showing no signs of wear. My rebuild popped due to the BNR twins failing. Now I have a single *crosses fingers* and shes running ****.

I agree 20k should do you nice. I was selling mine at one point for 18k, then I slapped myself in the face.

 

Nope, just more poor choice of words.

 

I have a magazine article, or a few of them.....forgot the name of the magazine, Sport compact?? Anyway they took a few months and did a bunch of add-ons and dynoed the car after each one. Pretty good series. I started with the radiator and a few other things, but stopped before I REALLY poured the money into performance mods. I went reliability first, which is what they did and recommended.

I agree if you build the car right, and maintain it properly it is an INCREDIBLE car for the money. The cars looks are my favorite though I just love the curves!

 

Reliability my man...reliability. I agree with joe 17psi is for the exotics not the hondas!

 

Yeah, it was Sport Compact. I've had FD's in the past, so this is nothing new really. I'm just curious what mods you guys value the most in your cars. Nice thing about a forum is the real world feedback vs a company's often empty promises. I know for sure I'm doing a single turbo conversion, FMIC, stand alone fuel management, injector upgrade, fuel line upgrade, fuel pump upgrade, suspension upgrade (Tein), sway bars, brakes, brake lines, and I'll probably gut the stereo out for weight reduction. And then I'll put a Mazdaspeed body kit on her, just for the fun of it, and some 18" HREs. I figure if I overbuild the car, and keep her at low boost I should be able to run her for about 80-100k and consistanly run 350-400hsp. We'll see... may project may begin soon though. I may have found my ride.

 

You may want to change the gears as well, if quickness is another thing you are looking for. Other than that it sounds like you got the main things figured out!

 

OOooo break lines! Yeah, dang I asked Chris to install steel braided brake lines and I don't think he got around to it. He did put HPhawk plus brake pads on! Whooaa doggy, does it ever stop fast!

 

Man I wish I could find my old car.. I sold it because I was entirely sick of the headache, but I sure miss it now.. 3 years later.

 

I do agree, I went with HP Hawks first and now I have EBC reds (greens in the rear). They have much more bite at speed then the stock pads and bring the car down very quickly. Only problem is the amount of brake dust that they produce. I've kicked the ABS in at 60 so you still have to modulate the braking power yourself. I love the stock braking power of the FD.

 

Agreed, stock is great in itself and I do hate the dust but if I did need to stop fast it would be worth it! I actually try not to brake much lol I only drive the car once or twice a week to work and when I do I REALLY try not to tailgate, the compression alone slows it down very quickly and being so light on top of everything makes it pretty easy to stay off the brakes.