Description:

1986 Mazda RX7 track-prepped car.  I’m sure I’m forgetting some details - any questions, feel free to ask.  I'll answer as much as I know.

I'd like to sell as a package and no trades.  I'm in the middle of moving and I don't have space for another car or time to ship tons of little things out. 


 The good:

• The car has primarily been in the garage for the past 15 years with only the odd weekend out
• Mazda Reman engine that has maybe 5,000 miles on it.  I bought this engine from a shop going out of business back in 2007 or 2008.  Someone refused to pay the mechanic, so he didn’t put the engine in.  I put it in and it basically only had about a dozen track days, drives to/from the track and some trips around town on it.  Since the speedometer is broken (see below), I can’t tell for sure - but it’s a peppy engine.
• Clean SC title - I’ve had the car for around 15 years.
• Changed over to pre-mix @ 1oz/gal
• Non-sunroof chassis
• This car weighed just over 2450 with me in it (around 220lbs at the time) and was corner-weighted accordingly
• Aluminum hood
• Spare aluminum hood included
• Manual steering rack (not a capped-off power rack)
• Manual windows
• Manual mirrors
• Sparco (I think) small steering wheel with quick release.  This is great on track when mated with the manual rack.
• GXL brakes
• Carbotech XP8 pads all around
• Stainless steel braided brake lines
• Large custom aluminum radiator
• Koni Yellow shocks with Coil overs
• Custom spring rates (If I remember correctly 350lb fronts and 175lb rears)
• Custom camber plates angled back for a high caster rate.  These came from Steve Eckrich many years ago.
• Solid aluminum engine and transmission mounts - absolutely no slop in this driveline
• MX-5 gear set - this is a close ratio gear set for this car and makes a huge difference on track.
• New syncros, blocking ring and bearings installed when the MX-5 gearset went in
• MX-5 shifter and return spring setup - never will you have a broken shifter return spring.  I swapped over the ball-bear and plunger setup from the donor MX-5 gear set.  This is the best shifting RX7 you will ever drive without going completely custom on the gearbox.
• Rebuilt wiper switch - wipers work on all speeds as expected
• Mazdatrix 12lb Aluminum flywheel
• Hard mounted Sparco fixed-back seat bolted in the factory bolt location.  It was a squeeze when I had a 42-in waist, it's a great fit with a 36-in waist
• S5 tail lights (just because I had them lying around)
• 5 point seat belt (see below)
• Welded in 4-point cage
• Either a TII or 192 liter per hour fuel pump - I don’t remember, but it’s not a stock N/A pump.
• 3x mechanical gauges - Oil temp, Oil press, Water temp.
• Spare convertible wheels included
• Many spare parts included - Mazda Factory Service Manual, extra S5 intake manifold, an ISC mid-section I never put on (brand new) plus a bunch of bits and pieces.
• ½ of a Racing Beat 2.5” exhaust.  Sounds awesome without being overly loud.  Why ½?  Saves a TON of weight.  
• Currently has a high-flow cat.  This was put in so I could drive at some tracks that have noise heavy restrictions.  It’s not quiet, but much quieter than open pipes.
• Honda Civic battery (weight savings).

• Needs a good solid scrub down and could use a re-spray.
• Key switches starter position is broken.  I have a starter button that I’ve always used.
• Key only works in the passenger door.  It used to work in the drivers door, but the lock doesn’t want to turn anymore.  I never really used it anyway, but I want to be up front with it.
• Heater core leaks and has been bypassed
• Speedometer/odometer does NOT work.  Actually, it runs backwards because of the MX-5 gearset.  I have a GPS speedometer I have been using that will be included.
• 5 point belts are way out of spec for track racing and would need to be replaced if you want to go that route.  I used them for HPDE and they’re fine for that.  
• Minor oxidation in various spots (but no rust holes through the frame/chassis)
• Rear corners have been repaired (before I bought the car in 2008 or so).  Not the greatest repair job, but works fine for a track car.
• A few small chips in the windshield
• Open differential.  This was on purpose - I used this car to teach me how to drive better where throttle control is important.
• Fan is wired to turn on with the car for around-town driving.  Unplug the fan while you’re at the track. I have a new coolant neck for a thermoswitch, but haven’t had time to install it.